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About RedGreen


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly fishing and tying, custom knife-making, general adventuring, materials science and engineering, physics and mathematics
  • What I do for a living:
    Currently in school

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  1. Never posted here before, figured this forum had the most traffic and would be most appropriate. Apologies if this has already been covered. Everyone must read this. We anglers have a chance to put in our word and push management to get our fishery back to healthy levels again. All it requires is 10 minutes of your time and an email. On the water Magazine: "On Thursday, the Striped Bass Management Board approved a draft document that presents a range of options designed to end overfishing of striped bass. The proposed measures include changes in bag limits, minimum sizes, and slot size limits for recreational fishermen and reduced quotas for commercial fisheries. The document also explores the mandatory use of circle hooks when fishing with bait to reduce release catch-and-release mortality. Proposed options for recreational fishermen include an increase in minimum size (from 1 fish at 28″ to 1 fish at 35″ or 1 fish at 36″) or a shift to slot sizes (for example, 1 fish 28″ – 34″ or 1 fish at 32″ – 40″). Atlantic coastal states will conduct public hearings on the document in the coming weeks and the ASMFC will be collecting public feedback until September 27, 2019. We’ll share the details once they are finalized. ASMFC Press Release: Atlantic Striped Bass Management Board Approves Draft Addendum VI for Public Comment Arlington, VA – The Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission’s Atlantic Striped Bass Management Board (Board) approved Draft Addendum VI for public comment. The Addendum was initiated in response to the 2018 Benchmark Stock Assessment which indicates the resource is overfished and experiencing overfishing. The Draft Addendum explores a range of management alternatives designed to end overfishing and reduce fishing mortality to the target level in 2020. “The Draft Addendum is a critical first step to stem overfishing as quickly as possible and begin efforts to rebuild the biomass,” said Board Chair Dr. Michael Armstrong with the Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries. “Following approval of the Addendum, the Board will likely initiate a new amendment to consider a longer term strategy to fully rebuild the resource.” The Draft Addendum proposes management options for both commercial and recreational sectors in the ocean and in Chesapeake Bay in order to reduce total fishery removals by 18% relative to 2017 levels. The proposed measures include reduced quotas for commercial fisheries, and changes in bag limits, minimum sizes, and slot size limits for the recreational sector. Since catch and release practices represent a significant component of overall fishing mortality, the Draft Addendum also explores the mandatory use of circle hooks when fishing with bait to reduce release mortality in recreational striped bass fisheries. It is anticipated the majority of Atlantic coastal states will conduct public hearings on the Draft Addendum; a subsequent press release will announce the details of those hearings once they become finalized. Fishermen and other interested groups are encouraged to provide input on the Draft Addendum either by attending state public hearings or providing written comment. The Draft Addendum will be available on the Commission website ( under Public Input by August 19th. Public comment will be accepted until 5:00 PM (EST) on September 27, 2019 and should be forwarded to Max Appelman, Fishery Management Plan Coordinator, 1050 N. Highland St, Suite A-N, Arlington, VA 22201; 703.842.0741 (FAX) or at (Subject line: Draft Addendum VI). Organizations planning to release an action alert in response to Draft Addendum VI should contact Max Appelman at or 703.842.0740. ### PR19-23 A PDF of the press release can be found here –"
  2. If you never change spools on the water, especially when wading, lamson liquid is fine. If you change spools while wading, its a waste of money. You'd be better suited getting a reel that flushes and operates well when underwater and full of sand.
  3. Finally got big fly videos done and uploaded. My casting technique is not perfect, far from it, but you get the idea. Basically it is exactly the same as your typical three movement cast except you cannot effectively aerial roll a big fly. Instead, you go right into the backcast after the unplugging movement, false cast, back cast, and shoot. Sometimes you will need one extra false cast. You have to shoot line fore and aft to get the cast away quickly. It is even more critical to get a straight clean back cast with these flies because they take a lot more line energy to cast than even a 6-7" deceiver type fly. The fly in this video is on a 7/0 monster worm hook and a full 13" long. A big chartreuse/yellow/white bunker fly. Line delivering it is 550 grains. It worked better than I expected but the more weight the better, and you need a SERIOUSLY powerful rod to match it. When these flies get wet the weight they add to the cast is significant. If your rod is even slightly overloaded you will have a bad time. You need line speed and lots of it. A slow cast will not deliver these flies very well especially into a headwind. A faster sinking head is harder to start the cast with but ends up further more easily because of reduced air resistance. I can throw my 13" musky flies which are VERY heavily dressed past 100' with my 750 grain rod and a type 5 or faster sinking head.
  4. Way too soft. IP550 is the starting point from what I have seen on the beach. In back bays and sheltered areas you can get away with less but no reason not to go powerful if you can, and if you're able to wield it comfortably. I've fished my MkIII for 750 grains on the flats almost all night and it's no problem. To get an idea how powerful it is Esa you'd probably put at least an 1100 grain head on it. Have vids of casting big (12-13") flies on TH rods, just weeding out the bad casts which are most of them. Too much power not enough technique. Will try and post tonight.
  5. A sealed drag is a gimmick. Go with a reel you can take apart easily, clean, and doesn't lose functional operation when dunked in sand and salt water. Only one I know of is the Colton Torrent. Heavier reel but reliable simple design. One ball bearing will corrode, but replacing it with a ceramic one will see that fixed right quick. To clarify your budget, is this a reel for 200 or a reel and a spool for 200?
  6. If you do decide you want a rod for that much weight I can direct you to one which I know will handle it and one of your big flies no problem. The very same beastly 14'er I have.
  7. TGS, The running line I use for my big TH casting 750 grains has a 65# powerpro core. Zero stretch, wonderfully sensitive. Plenty thick enough to hold onto and 100' long. My heads are 36-40' long. I use 50# dacron backing on that rod which I can hold in my hands too though the running line is much nicer. I've never had the need to set through my backing. If you're wanting to fish at longer ranges then I'd suggest giving Monic running lines a look. Not immensely durable but it's in a class by itself for cold water high strength fly running lines. Most of my bites are in closer but being able to cover more water is never a bad thing.
  8. Best cast I've ever had was around 140' while fishing, my feet to the fly's landing. 750 grain scientific anglers ultimate scandi taper express shooting head, 0.038" Monic floating running line. The vast majority are shorter with some being much shorter. I like a TH with a stiff tip a lot as it means I can use a tighter stroke and be very aggressive with it without incurring tailing loops. I find I can get tighter loops with a TH that's a moderate fast or moderate action than one with a fast or extra fast action as the tip just collapses on a hard cast. You have to have a long stroke with a fast action TH which makes it hard to keep the line above water in rough weather when wading waist deep or a bit deeper. Especially in a surf. Have to keep the line high and fast.
  9. I'd be inclined to go with slips recommendation on rods, as he fishes steelhead lots and lots in his area from what Mike has told me in the past. Gil, nobody asked so I would like to. Are you doing primarily spey casting or overhead casting with this TH rod? I have assumed it will be mostly spey but want to make it clear for those in the thread.
  10. There could be a change if there is enough pressure for it with enough people backing it up. Isn't that what we're trying to do now with striper regulations and management?
  11. Poaching could be mitigated with penalties that actually made people stop. Fines of thousands of dollars as opposed to hundreds (vague terms I know, I don't have the exact numbers in front of me), and arrests made for those found poaching or killing fish unlawfully. As of now it's mostly a slap on the wrist. So they get caught, so what? A couple hundred bucks and they're back out doing it again. Fish and wildlife officers need to actually patrol and there need to be a lot more of them. I've never seen one in MA and ME, as well as NJ and MD. That's a serious problem. I should be seeing them at least once every couple hours.
  12. Gregg, it is exactly like that. Timing is exactly the same as for single handed casting. If you are able to shoot on the fore and back cast with a single handed rod you know just how to do it with a TH. I pinch the line against the handle firmly with my index finger on my top hand and my index and middle finger on my bottom hand. Two hands on the line while casting help you keep control. The line goes straight from my bottom hand to my top hand, not over the bottom bar of the reel like some TH comp casters. I've found it tends to slip off and get tangled on something when you have to shoot on the back cast. A straight path minimizes this. One other thing I have been experimenting with and I believe is beneficial is putting the line behind the reel if your reel is left hand wind like mine is. So, for a righty, your line goes from your left hand, behind the reel and above the drag knob, then to your index finger of your right hand. The reel I believe helps to keep the line from slipping out of my fingers when I shoot to lengthen line during a cast. I can try and shoot a clip of my hands while casting as well if it helps. But that's the basic setup I use. Only one hand pinching the line makes it harder to control the cast. We all lose the cast sometimes on the backwards shoot. You can do things to minimize it but it happens. Best to just laugh it off and try again.
  13. Not the same fishery but I'm in the middle of one of those too. Trying hard to figure out musky fly fishing from shore in my local waters. Very much on my own.
  14. Mike Not always is my cast that way. Usually it is more like Dan's, but still pretty "expressive". I resort to using a lot of overhang and a very wide stroke when I'm really trying to get out far. Having a lot of overhang and getting the backcast straight behind me means I essentially delay the formation of the loop on delivery which gets me out further. Needs more power too than a normal cast but hasn't been an issue so far. I can use a super wide stroke but because I'm transferring it through 15-20' of overhang the running line can't effectively push the wide loop to the head, which just creases right over and forms a tight loop anyways. You can see this in my video, where the running line dips way down then is pulled up to follow the shooting head. It's basically a very exaggerating loop morphing technique. Up until now Dan hasn't been using so much power in the lower hand though it does move. We compared notes at the cape and since then I believe he's been incorporating what you could call a 2" punch on the bottom hand. I believe he noted it somewhere in the thread. He's doing really good. We all learn from each other and we're all different in our styles. We all catch fish.
  15. Agreed killie. I've never found a good one, or even one at all. So I've resigned myself to shooting head systems. If I don't want loops I just splice the head to the running line directly. Goes through my guides fine, and I can tell audibly and palpably when the head enters them. Good for night fishing.