RedGreen

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About RedGreen

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    Elite Member

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly fishing and tying, custom knife-making, general adventuring, materials science and engineering, physics and mathematics
  • What I do for a living:
    Currently in school

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  1. To my knowledge there are no reels that can compare to the Colton. A new contender is the Redington grande but it's very new so not much experience is out there yet. Fully machined, CF drag, immensely strong and built for power, supposedly sealed. Sounds good on paper but I'm not sure of the nature of the seal. If I had to guess probably just O rings, no lip seal. I wouldn't chance it even if it was sealed perfectly. Open it up, study it, know it inside and out, fill it with grease where I can, reseal and put it back together. Do maintenance whenever I can and rinse it every trip. I'll be picking one up for a nominal 14wt TH rod for the beach and fishing it hard this season so I will report back on that reel like I did my lamson when next winter rolls around.
  2. Oakman that looks so cool it would be wicked to have art of my own I'm just not sure I want to stain my skin. I may PM you with a few questions if that is ok sometime about it.
  3. I have thought about it a lot but don't know if I'd ever go through with it. They look cool as hell but the thought of my body being permanently imprinted on just for visuals sake doesn't sit right with me. If I ever did I'd go for something Inuit. My family comes from separate backgounds. Mom's side completely italian dad's side French Canadian. I personally align more with them than the Italian side dispite looking like I belong on my mom's side more than my dad's. Really like this style.
  4. RE danielsson, I have found that if you let your reel hit sand with the spool installed a full cage reel will jam and freeze on you until you forcibly turn it underwater to clear the sand. I have a white river kingfisher 9/10 which I use on my lighter TH rod that has a full cage and reasonably tight tolerances. It freezes when it's laid in the sand and you have to really force it to turn to clear it. This happens when I'm changing spools and stringing my rod up again with a different density line. RE sealing, I think they go for the simple O ring because it's honestly really really hard to make a system which is fully sealed that also rotates easily. Internal combustion engines are sealed and sealed well but they are very very hard to turn by hand without tools. They can say it is sealed and technically it is even if it's a crappy job of it. So they get by with technicality. Crummy but that's life. I would wager you can bolsters your reels resistance to the elements by packing the critical areas with marine grease. It would certainly help to supplement the sealed areas as well. I quite like HT's idea of a new material impervious to corrosion that negates sealing whatsoever. The issue here though is the anti reverse mechanism. What we need are more resistant materials for AR bearings. Ceramic would be perfect as they corrosion proof and extremely hard so very good for the small contact surfaces in bearings. More brittle but that's the price you pay. You could go with the cog wheel anti reverse like the classic cork draw bar reels but if you want to change spools quickly without tools and losing parts that's an issue. One day I want to try and design a fly reel specifically for living in the surf. It will not be sealed but will be designed with the fact that water and sand ingress and lots of it will happen and it will still keep ticking away.
  5. Makos are billed as being about as indestructible as you can make a fly reel be. But I wonder how many who own them fish from the surf like the OP does. I know one was left on the sea floor for months and had no ingress of water or sand but that's a static reel not a turning one. I for one fish in a similar way. My reel and spare spools sit in a pouch on my waist and are usually underwater if not close to it. One day if I am wealthy enough to pull it off I may pick up a mako and use it for a season to see how it works. I'm more thinking out loud than making a declaration.
  6. Read a ton of his posts, it's where I got the idea from! Crazy guy. May his soul rest in peace.
  7. Not a chance. I'd rather build a rod or reel myself. I already do the former but the latter I am thinking about more and more. To add my own instigation.... A big game surf ready multiplier perhaps? Hmm...
  8. I would again like to add RE lamsons that the ones that are easily compromised are the ones where the main shaft is integral to the spool and come out of the reel when the spool is changed. That shaft goes right into the AR bearing and as such directly introduces contaminants to the most critical part besides the drag. The Cobalt does not have this design flaw. It seal has been pressure tested to 30M depth water pressure which is about 4 atmospheres of pressure. This is with the reel static so any rotation can effectively compromise the seal but that's a fact on all reels. A true perfect seal on a rotating fly reel is nearly impossible to design. It is also by far their most expensive model with the largest size being around $850 (source: trident fly fishing).
  9. Would like to add that you should stay away from lamson reels as their seals are easily compromised. Especially if you are changing spools; they the seal is completely compromised as the internals are directly exposed to salt water.
  10. Mike O and Oakman have been fishing a Colton terrapin 1012 and they use their reels very hard. I fish a lot with Mike and he has his reel underwater basically all the time when fishing and it has served him very very well. I have no experience but I hope they will chime in with their expertise. Made fully in the USA too, and wonderful service from the owner, Bob.
  11. I should add I am also very interested in your lobster pattern. I only know of a few. Namely, Dave skoks slobster, the lobster in a bag from Peluso's Saltwater Flies of the Northeast, and Kenny Abrames pattern: the bugster. That last pattern I have only seen a picture of but it intrigues me as Kenny is huge on sparseness, translucency, and natural movement of materials in the current like a wet fly or soft hackle. But a lobster is not at all translucent except perhaps when it melts and isn't flowy and doesn't wriggle around like an eel or baitfish does. So it is interesting as it collides with a lot of his fly tying philosophy.
  12. I hear you on that. Looking forward to those pictures. I tied my largest crabs on 5/0 hooks and they measure more like 2.5" so I wonder what I am doing differently. I may have to tie up some extra lobsters then but I still have to wait to see how they swim first. I'm quite looking forward to it because I like tying them a lot. Gives me an outlet for bucktails with nothing but hair on the backside left. I have been experimenting with weedguards as well, drawing from my experience with bass jigs. They use monofilament weedguards but heavy like minimum 11 strands around 25-30lb test. So I'm emulating that a bit and seeing how it works. My hookups on bass jigs were never a problem so hopefully my flies with 4 strands 40lb doubled over will be fine too. If not I can always cut it off.
  13. In my experience underlining has often been the better choice what with lines underrated and rods as well; extra power to belt a line out there is never a bad thing. I underline on my TH and SH rods well at least with respect to what others would do. My 10wt single hander is more like a nominal 11 but I still use AFFTA 10wt lines and find the performance is wonderful. But ultimately is about how things work. If it works, then why not stick with it?
  14. Great, just the info I was looking for. I used to fish freshwater bass religiously with conventional gear and a jig with rattles was one of my go to lures, it sounds like it will be fished similarly to the crab and lobster flies. I will probably go for metallic rattles as I would think they will rattle louder than plastic, as well as add weight to help get the fly down. How big is too big for crabs and lobsters? The bigger one in that picture measures 10" with the antennae which are half the overall length. Or rather what size range should I aim for at night?
  15. I am going to be trying out lobsters this year as well. This one was a prototype so it doesn't have rattles or a really good hook but if it swims well I will tie one or two with good components and rattles in hopes of tangling with a beast of the night.