BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Dan_evan1

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • birthdate

Profile Fields

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

967 profile views
  1. Yes at the maritime academy, there’s a little beach and very mellow jetty but I believe they are closed at night. Honestly brother, I don’t know the extent of your physical limitations , but there’s plenty of spots along the canal that given the right tide and a set of waders (you would be shin deep at most) if you could simply make it down the rocks and onto the sediment bottom, you’d be perfect. I wear waders for 4 reasons. 1.) To get off the treacherous rocks and onto the sediment bottom for better footing 2.) To allow for a full back cast if I need to lean into the rod to reach fish 3.) To handle the fish in the water once landed 4.) To have a better angle when fighting the fish when they head downtide and hug the rocks
  2. No but I’ll ask how the rods perform at the bottom end of their ratings. From owning a 1328 and handling the 1269, I can say that they’re both probably going to be a little on the numb side with 2 oz, but that the RA1269 seems to have a bit more tip for throwing lighter plugs. I’ll see if I can get some definitive answers for you.
  3. So when you say faster, faster than what?
  4. Oh god yeah it will send one of those. Between 4-5 oz the rod really starts to load and unload super efficiently. Here’s a video of me leaning into a 5 oz pencil pretty hard.
  5. So when you say sweet spot, are you talking the original Jigster, 10’6 or the extreme? And are we talking plugs? I only ask because the term sweet spot isn’t typically used for jigging but rather casting, but I’m sure I could apply a figure to either application. You’re more than welcome to try my original or extreme. I’ll let you throw a variety of weights with both of them, jigs, plugs, whatever you’d like. A lot of guys have a preference or go-to jig that they throw a lot, If you could elaborate a little more on your question, I feel as though I can give you a much more thorough answer. Glad to answer whatever I can to the best of my ability. There’s just not enough demo days or casting events where we as anglers get to truly put a rod through its paces and going off the opinions of others and bending the tip against the shop ceiling doesn’t really cut it.
  6. I had the opportunity to try the graphene 1328 and 1329, both custom builds with titanium torzite guides. The 1329 had k-guides and the 1328 had RVs. Having owned a pre-graphene 1328, and 1327, I can say there is something different about their graphene incorporated counterparts. While both rods perform incredibly, my friend and long time canal angler is actually putting his 1329 up for sale because he can’t seem to put the new 1328 down, jigging or plugging. Another option you might look into is the Century RA1269 coming in at 10’6 with a 2-7 weight rating. Joe Paiva, a longtime canal sharpie and century consultant described the rod as a 1328 and 1/2 during testing and was by far his favorite rod from the range. It comes with titanium SiC guides, graphene, and I feel it could fit the bill for you unless you were dead set on a 11’ rod.
  7. My 10’ Black Hole Heavy II put the nuts to this #47 and after a 12 hour jigging session that I was FEELING the next day, I was rewarded with this beautiful fish. (Released healthy and strong). As mentioned this rod is rated 3-10 and feels grossly uunderrated if anything. I’ve thrown 10 oz with it as hard as my casting finger could take and it feels like it’s capable of throwing a cinder block if you were so inclined. I went from an 11’ factory model last year to a 10’ built version this year. I was invited by Kilsong to a demo day in December to test the new SB series that was originally rated 3-10 for the heavy version. After using it I told Kilsong that you’ve already got the perfect heavy jig stick in the Heavy II Surf so trying to add another rod in that range felt a little redundant. He said that with feedback he had received thus far he was going to change the rating to a 3-8 for the heavy and a 2-6 for the regular version. The SB series is a thinner diameter, lighter, more plugging style rod and after throwing 2 oz guppy’s, and the 17 size SP minnow I made the suggestion of changing the rating to a 2-8, and a 1-6 respectively. I felt that the simple drop of an ounce on the bottom end rating not only opens the door for an entirely different range of lures, but more importantly represented the rod’s true capability more accurately than something like 3-8 would. I’ve never had a representative take advice from a nobody like me and immediately incorporate it into the rods the way Kilsong did with the weight ratings and was super humbled to have my input received the way it was. These rods are going to be a huge hit with their price points being extremely generous for what you’re getting (I believe they will retail between 300-350). Extreme Jigster - I just had the 11’ extreme blank built and jigged with it all last night. It’s certainly a step above the original in terms of sack. The 10’6 version would be really great for those guys with bad backs/shoulders etc. or for those who just prefer something a little more forgiving than the 1209/Heavy II style rods while still being capable of accommodating just about any jigging style. With the big flood of paddle tail style jigs becoming increasingly popular, the jigster really excels and provides excellent feedback for those who like to swim the jig just off the bottom and forego the traditional bounce and lift style. I still feel that the original Jigster 11’ 4-10 is the ultimate all around Canal rod and has such a broad range. Just like I did with the original Jigster, I plan to make a video showing the rod throwing everything from 2-3 oz to the Savage Cutbait Herring (9.5 oz), footage of its fish fighting characteristics, and I think what most would like to see is how it lifts various weights off the bottom while jigging. If you’ve got any specific requests, just post them and I’ll do my absolute best to make that happen for you. Century Surf Machine Elite 12’ 2-8. What can you really say about this rod. It’s insanely expensive, but comes with every new material that Century offers in their high end blanks from Graphene, the Textreme coating for durability, all the Autoclave anti-twist wizardry etc. The rod is listed as having Titanium SiC K- guides but the one I bought which was already built from Century came with Titanium Torzite guides. The only thing I had modified was the reel seat position. The factory rod felt choked down quite a bit for a 12’er and at my height of 6’2 and arm length, I had the reel seat moved up 2.5” from the factory location and haven’t noticed any line slap or issues casting. We literally subjected the rod to over 35lbs of drag pressure at a 45 degree angle and it just felt like it had endless power. I wish it threw the bottom end of its rating a little more efficiently, but it’s still decent. The rod starts to comes alive at 3.5 oz and shines at 4-5.5. It will throw a 5 oz Savage as far as most 2-6 rods can throw a 3 oz pencil. Despite being a 12’ rod, the difference in weight between anything else in its class is completely blatant, and if blindfolded you’d think you were holding something in the 9’-10’ range based on how it feels in the hands. Century Slingshot SS1209 10’ 4-8. I got to handle this rod at the RISAA show this year and it took everything in my power to not make a full sprint for one of the exits. In all seriousness though, WOW. It was built with titanium SiC guides and had the new graphene incorporated. This rod is going to be an absolute go-to for a ton of guys who like long jigging sessions or simply want the absolute best power/weight ratio of any rod rated 4-8oz to effectively jig with. At 10’ long, and weighing next to nothing while still having the same guts as the popular SS1329, I can see nothing but great success when this rod hits the shelves. The Tsunami Trophy II series. I don’t know how Tsunami does it, but these rods have been nothing short of spectacular for their price points. I think the entire line retails in the ballpark between $80-$140. I picked up the 8’6 rated 0.5- 1.5 oz for schoolies and couldn’t be happier with how it performed. I know that the 11’ 4-10 retails for like $119.99 and have had multiple CCC customers rave about its performance up to this point. The Century Ron Arra Series 10’6 2-7: When I first inquired about these rods back in November, Joe Paiva described the RA1269 as an SS1328 and 1/2 and I couldn’t agree more. A touch quicker than the extremely popular SS1328, but not as much as the SS1329. Titanium SiC guides, graphene, a length that’s friendly to just about everyone at 10’6 and an incredible range with the 2-7 rating, this is another rod that’s going to have guys leaving more rods in the truck or at home and would do just about anything you asked of it. Throws and works plugs beautifully, and like the SS1328 can be used as a “lighter” jig stick, with the extra 6” taken off lending itself to an even more capable and comfortable rod in that department. For those wondering where/how I’m getting my information, when I’m not a firefighter/paramedic, I work at Red Top Sporting goods during the season about 3-4 times a month. Great way to stay in touch with the local anglers, keep up to date on fishing reports, have the opportunity to test new products, and the employee discount is not something I have a problem with. Video I made last year simply showcasing the Blackhole Heavy II Surf 11 footer throwing/lifting the top end of its advertised rating. The recovery is laughably fast for that much weight. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask and if I can, I will answer them to the best of my ability.
  8. Looking to trade my 12’ Century Surf Machine Elite 2-8 for the 11’3 1-6 Surf Machine Elite. Rod is in excellent condition, purchased this spring with factory layout/titanium torzite guides. Changed the shrink tube grip to Paco style grip and extended distance from butt to reel seat to 25” as I felt the factory placement was simply too choked down for a 12’ rod and my height/arm length. Reason for trade is simply too much overlap with my other rods in terms of the weight range and need something to throw lighter plugs more efficiently.
  9. You could give my buddy Captain Ross from Cape Cod Charter Guys a call or email. He did a full resto of a 23 potter hull. He went straight inboard. He just re-did all his electronics, but the boat is beautiful, he’s left nothing untouched, and will talk about them for days.
  10. If I’m not mistaken the Lamiglas GSB111MHS is labeled a 4-8 on their website still, but it is in fact a 3-8 in person (negligible, but still). The 11’ 3-8 GSB111MHS is also a one piece rod (assuming you’re looking at factory built rods). It’s also part of a these newer generation GSBs that are rated as “Moderate/Fast” instead of the classic “Moderate”. I had the pleasure of throwing a variety of lures of the new GSB 11’ 3-8 and I was really impressed. I think it’s going to be an awesome option for guys looking for a do-it-all canal rod. We threw down to the larger “17” size SP minnow floaters, all the way to 7.5 oz Strategic Anglers and the 8 oz Stick Shads and everything in between and the rod is absolutely true to its top end rating and throws 2 oz. with very solid feedback for how powerful it is. In terms of power it has the sack to stand toe to toe with rods in a heavier weight class (i.e. 4-10oz) and it feels like there is endless power without bending through the reel seat. I think that both Lamiglas and ODM really nailed what the term “moderate fast” should be with these two respective models from their lineups as we all know there’s not much in the way of standardization across the manufacturers when it comes to rod action. ODM just released the Frontier X 10’6 3-8 oz, and I’ve yet to get my hands on that. I do own a Frontier X 11’6 2-6 and love it. I’m extremely keen on testing the 10’6 3-8 Frontier X which is a 70/30 split. Either way you go, both rods are top tier choices, modern K frame guide layouts, similar reel seats, very solid epoxy etc.
  11. I saw a video where John Skinner injected some of his plugs with maple syrup due to the specific gravity being about 40% higher than water (need less material to achieve same weight). I’ve never tried it, but figured it’s another feasible option for you to check out. Beginning of the video shows and explains his method. *If linking this video is not congruent with forum rules, by all means let me know and I’ll remove it.
  12. Both Clint and Lureman provided spot on advice in my opinion. You’re all set for reels, and like Clint said, if you’re not a regular at the canal, and are only going to visit here and there, find yourself a nice “all around” rod. I’d look for something that’s between 10’ and 11’6 depending on your comfort level and rated something like 3-8, 2-7, 3-7. A rod like the 11’ Heavy Tiralejo is rated 3-6 but is more like a 3-8. For me personally I prefer a 10’ fast action jigging rod. An outstanding budget or entry level jigging rod for the money and something I recommend is the 10’6 TiCA TC3 2-8 oz Fast action. It’s like $130, Fuji hardloy guides, Fuji reel seat, plenty of power, and fast enough to lift and hold those heavier lead heads. A major factor in the changes of modern day jigging is the paddle tail jig design. That 20 degree (give or take from one manufacturer to another) paddle tail acts like a parachute brake in the current. It allows you to cast out, get contact with the bottom, lift, and then just do a nice slow retrieve while allowing the paddle tail to sweep. The slightest angler input in terms of line retrieve will cause the jig to instantly rise. A lot of people who try this method don’t understand just how fast that jig will rise and need to really slow their retrieve down, especially once your lure is past you swimming against the current. Conversely, if the current is really steaming, they can actually inhibit you from staying in contact with the bottom because of that tail, and that’s when I’ll change to a bucktail, or rat tail (Sluggo style) to stay down. They can provide someone who may be new to the canal with a little more confidence/forgiveness to target fish holding close to the bottom without bouncing a heavy bucktail (like Lureman said, jigging the canal has a big learning curve, especially with bucktails). This method of slow swimming the paddle tail also isn’t so demanding in terms of having a dedicated proper jig stick because you’re not required to repeatedly lift the lead off the bottom and reiterates what Clint noted about not needing a very fast/heavy setup. The heavy, fast action rods aren’t utilized to just cast the weight out, but to have the ability to lift, hold, and control heavy jigs with the most efficient energy transfer between that entire chain that connects the angler to the lure.
  13. I think the Penn Slammer 6500 High Speed (Red & Black colored) would be a great bang for the buck reel. If you were buying two reels for 2 setups, that would be an excellent choice for your “heavy” setup. A 10000 Saragosa would also make for a great candidate although not nearly as fast of a retrieve as the HS Slammer 6500. Sure you can catch fish on smaller reels and light line and light setups, but that’s pretty situational at the canal. Most of the time you’re going to be fishing with people on both sides of you, and you don’t want to be the guy who shuts down a dozen anglers downtide because your tackle is too light to really lean on a fish. Gearing up appropriately is all part of the etiquette, and you’ll find that those around you will appreciate the fact that you’ve done your homework. Beyond that, I’ve found that most of the big fish that I’ve lost in the canal were the ones where I tried to “play” them. Unlike the open beach, in my opinion, the longer the fight goes, the higher the chances that big fish will take you to the bottom and do you in. You need to keep their heads up, put some hurt on them and do your best to keep them off the bottom. As far as Power Pro Super Slick, I’m not a fan. It’s too soft for me, susceptible to fraying easily and I’d much prefer something a little more rugged like Suffix 832 or Spiderwire Stealth. For an entry level rod, The new tsunami trophy II surf rods are an incredible value for the money with rods ranging from: 10’ 3-6 MH 10’ 4-6 H 11’ 2-6 H 11’ 4-10 XH 12’ 3-8 H 12’ 6-10 XH After getting to handle the new Trophy II rods, I think they’re going to be an excellent option for anyone whether they’re on a budget, just starting out, or whatever the case may be.
  14. For my Tuna/GT lures I have tried everything from traditional 1.6mm 304/308 stainless all the way to 1.8, 2, 2.2, and 2.4mm 316 stainless. If you plan on doing a tailwrap style lure with a swivel and not a wire frame with fixed hangers, I’d suggest using 2mm. Anything thicker than that is pretty difficult to get tight wraps with. It can be done, but you need some serious vice grip work. These attached pictures show a tuna stickbait I made using 2.2mm 316 stainless with a 4/0 Spro Swivel. Getting the tailwrap locked in was a job and a half
  15. I tried the 11’, but I believe that there’s a 10’6 offering in the 2-8 oz range for the striped bass special unless things have changed from our casting demo. It was still very early in the testing phase, but the great thing about Kil Song is that he not only seeks input from anglers about the rods, but then takes that input to to the drawing board to create the best possible product. I’m truly honored to be able to call him a friend. You won’t meet a nicer guy who works tirelessly to provide his supporters with the best.