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About rathrbefishn

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  1. Got to go out on a charter with a work group out of Solomons Island yesterday. Trolling in the bay on the last day of "trophy" season. Very slow day. Picked up one at 34" and that was it- trolled from 730 am untll almost 2pm. While I am not a huge fan of trolling, it was a pretty impressive production. 28 rods all simultaneously trolling at varying depths- Mostly mojo rig and some umbrellas. Great day fishing with a good group of guys. Not so great a day of catching. Rest of the fleet reported slow day as well
  2. You may want to consider a mix of linseed oil- Beeswax and Turpentine or Mineral Spirits. Easy to wipe on and much easier to refresh than poly. Slick without being too slippery and glue and paint drips pop free
  3. Sadly, t's been years since I had an aquarium, but at one point had several at home and oversaw a wet-lab at work- probably 50+ aquariums there. So, while I may be a bit rusty, I have a reasonable frame of reference. A couple of quick thoughts. 1) 10 gallon tanks are tough to maintain without some external filtration- the volume is small enough that water quality can change quickly. Plecos are pretty hardy, much hardier than the inverts that are dying. People seem to be impressed by large tanks- my experience has been that depending on what you are trying to keep, the smaller ones can be more challenging. 2) Oxygen levels will swing wildly with the amount of plants/algae you are describing. Keep n mind that at night these plants are oxygen consumers. With nothing to keep the water moving, there's potential that you're getting low oxygen levels at night. Others above mentioned the impact this can have on pH. 3) Some good advice above on the micronutrients that can impact algal growth- not ones you pick up in a common test kit. I'd start with more water changes and strongly consider adding a powered filter. They have gotten pretty inexpensive. Probably $15 would get you started on one for a 10 gallon tank. Keeps the water changes down and keeps the water circulated.
  4. What makes a bench "correct" or "right" is such a personal thing. Depends on how you will use it, what's the budget, how much time you want to spend building it, etc, etc, etc. It's why there's been countless books written on the topic. I've got a couple different flavors I've built- different materials, heights, etc. I built one with my vise on the "wrong" side according to the books- but it works great for me. What works for an 5'6" mechanic may not work for a 6'3" woodworker that only uses handtools which might not work for..... I find setting up my shop to be an evolutionary process. Never quite done
  5. Also look into refurbished ones on the auction site or Amazon. I've bought a couple of different brand name nailers that way- usually with a 90 day to 1 year warranty. Never had any issues. WRT flooring nailer, bought a Husky refurb off the auction site for about $100. It used flooring cleats. Only put down a few hundred square feet of oak- no problems whatsoever. You could probably find a Bostitch or other better name brand for $150. Others will need to comment on the pros/cons of staples vs cleats.
  6. I've done a few flooring projects. Cardboard template are my best friend around door jams, fireplaces, etc....And I often find that I need to cut that template a few times before I get it right. I know that pros are far better than I around scribing and probably head right to scribing on the flooring material. I'm just not that good. Good luck
  7. I've gone to a portable bluetooth speaker for outdoor use. The one I have holds a charge for hours and no worry about how it needs to hold up in rough weather. Of course the downside is you need to either plug them in or charge them. Not the question you asked, but an easy solution for < $100. I'll be thinking hard about hard-wiring even my internal speakers in my next house. No comparison to the wireless speakers of a decade ago.
  8. WRT your door question. 1)I think there is usually 1/2" or so to work with in the rough frame- you might want to pull the trim back to see what the framing is like. I'd think you wouldn't want to just trim back a header and re-framing sounds like a major effort. 2) I can't tell if that's a wooden door. If so, can you just shave off the bottom. Aesthetically, i doubt you would miss an inch,. I had to replace a full light metal door with a half-light in order to accommodate a pet door (yes- really). I was able to measure hinge location, lockset location, etc and order a fiberglass custom slab and just pop it in the existing frame. Cost i think $350 and kept me from a much bigger project. - caveat- it was still a standard size. and the "custom" part was the hinge and lock locations. Not sure how much extra material (= not the foam part) is available to be shaved off from a custom slab from the factory.
  9. Probably not. A 1.5 inch hose has a fair bit or pressure drop and limits overall airflow. Dust collection is a lot about the volume of air moved as much as how strong the vacuum is. And you can only move so much air through a 1.5" hose that's sucking through only a handful of holes in the sandpaper. I've had what sounds like a similar experience. Downdraft tables are the way to go with sanders.....wish I had one and the space for one.
  10. Most of the commercial power washing detergents ( or the hose-end mildew and algae sprays) will give you the same advice. Wet all the plants beforehand and then rinse again afterwards. I used to live in FL where powerwashing mold and algae was needed way too often. As others have said, the pressure itself will get most of gunk off. I also used diluted bleach and various sprays sometimes, but not always. I like SeaKarp's suggestion if you are concerned. But don't forget vinegar can also be used as a herbicide. A quick rinse and you should be fine.
  11. So I was reminded how much fun planting seeds can be this week when my 3 yr old grandson helped me plant some tomato seeds. Not sure which one of us had more fun. His older brother loves it as well. I was also reminded of the importance of good potting mix. I tried to use something new for some seeds this year- trying coir- which is from coconut husks. I put it in the same category as peat pots- it dries much too quickly. I'm glad I didn't use it for everything.....
  12. A couple of quick points- No- I haven't used fans, but I have considered it- Fluorescent lights (probably LED also) let you get the plants closer to the bulbs without the excess heat you can get from other sources. They can be just a few inches away and that helps to keep the plants from "reaching" to the light which can lead to leggy plants. As Cheech mentioned, it's essential that you harden off the tender young plants before placing them outside. So a few hours a day to start, back indoors at night, not in direct mid-day sun to start, sheltered from strong winds, keep inside on days with harsh weather, etc If you need more guidance on that i am sure one of us can provide. It's not rocket science, nor do you have to be perfect in following the schedule. But if you just place them directly outside, they will not be happy.
  13. If it has worked for you in the past, no need to change up. If you're trying to grow full size plants and get them to the point where they will flower/fruit, then you really need to pay attention to the color spectrum of the bulbs. You can get full blown grow lights or just mix a daylight and cool light bulb in a 2 bulb fixture to better approximate full spectrum bulbs. I've used incandescent, fluorescents, and even a metal halide fixture over the years. Cheap fluorescent shop lights with daylight and cool light bulbs have proven just fine for me . 16-18 hours on day . Since you'll presumably be moving these peppers out to natural sunlight I wouldn't worry about it if it's been working.
  14. PS- I prefer plastic pots- those Jiffy peat pellets are a great concept, but I've found them and peat pots to dry out too quickly. I recycle the pots each year- a 10% bleach rinse or dunk and a rinse in the utility sink. A silver Sharpie is a quick way to label vs tags
  15. I find planting seeds as good wintertime therapy- I've been ending up with 16-20 flats of flowers, veggies and herbs most years Some don't make it every year, but enough do to fill the gardens up and there are a lot more varieties available via seeds than as plants....but i still do buy a lot as plants each year. I grow lots of heirloom tomatoes I'd never find as plants A couple of quick thoughts 1) Cheap shop lights work just fine- get the plants close to the bulbs- I move mine up as the plants grow- it keeps them from getting leggy. 2) heat mats are really helpful for some plants, but it depends what you are growing. Tomatos, peppers and other heat loving plants will germinate much faster with a $20 heat mat. 3) Don't over or underwater- those plastic domes work well until germination. The seedling mix, size of pots, airlfow, and temp all really influence how often you need to water. I've lost many plants due to both under and over watering. My best tip would be to avoid very small pots- eg 4 packs are better than 6 packs and to check the plants often. 4) Seeds are usually pretty cheap- at least for what you've described. It's OK to overplant as far as density and thin them. Or just you can just transplant the extras and give them away- it's why I give away dozens of tomatoes each year Have fun...and start soon ,,,,wishing I had a small green house and a bigger garden