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About rathrbefishn

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  1. You said cinder block- In my experience, they are much tougher to get things to bite than in poured concrete. When I lived in a CBS house in Florida, I found that sometimes the old school lead shields/ anchors worked better than the Tapcon ( of which I am a huge fan usually). The Tapsons seemed to strip out the holes- the texture in the cinderblocks is pretty course and tends to crumble.
  2. Yes- heat sensitive- Fixed and only lost about 1.25"
  3. Does anyone know if Penn uses a heat sensitive glue= ferule cement to glue on their tip top to a Prevail surf rod. Ater my session at the beach tonight I see that the tip snapped off about 1" below the tip-top. Not sure if it was on the last cast or on the walk from the beach. Since it is only an inch down if it is heat sensitive I might be able to use the same tip-top guide as the diameter will be the same. So much for my morning outing...unless I use a much shorter rod that isn't ideal.
  4. At OC with the family in a condo this week. NOT a fishing vacation but I did bring a rod. Spent about an hour or so with the wife on the beach last night. A beer for me, a glass of wine for her, and a rod in a spike. Caught a small dogfish on a little piece of fishbites on a hi-lo rig just after dark. Life is good.....
  5. How messy is using the Tiger foam? I've got a morning room that is raised up on stilts and open underneath. Fiberglass aint' cutting it. planning on removing the soffit underneath, removing the fiberglass, adding an inch of foam to seal air leaks and then adding fiberglass back. But I am not sure it is DIY or will it be a nightmare with overruns and spray going everywhere
  6. I replaced my furnace/airhandler/AC a couple of summer ago. I did a fair bit of research and here are a few quick thoughts. As others have said, the price can vary widely , even within the same region. Some of that is due to big vs little contractor, but there is also a lot to influence of the system type. You will pay much more for some manufacturers than others- sometime it because of extra features, sometimes I think it is for the name. The SEER rating will impact price- this is a pay me no or pay me later thing. Higher efficiency systems cost more but save on electrical. The SEER rating may also impact federal/state or power company rebates. These can really reduce your costs, so do your homework and make sure in advance that the system is eligible if you are counting on the rebate. For me, I wasn't eligible for a power company rebate as the combination of inside and outside wasn't yet on some national accrediting list whose name escapes me-even though it was a manufacturer match pair- it was a timing thing. It was still enough of a break for me that it was overall a better deal, but keep your eyes open. One thing I took away from a lot of reading and discussions was that whether you buy a high-end Trane with all the new bells and whistles or a lower end unit ( which BTW are all still WAY more efficient than they used to be), getting a good installation is critical. There are some rules of thumb that might work some of the time, probably most adequate when it is a replacement. For a new install, it's worth making sure that whatever you install is sized correctly and installed correctly. BTW- while a lot of us have bandaided an old unit and gotten almost 20 years from one, the current thinking is that they last 10-15 years. Heat pumps and furnaces longer.
  7. Do you know if he tested draw after he replaced the capacitor? I would think that would be the indicator of whether or not the breaker is bad or if it drawing too much current.
  8. Unlike wine, these AC issues never seem to get better with time. If i recall, there are some good articles online (Handyman??) on how to test some of the basic things with a multimeter ( eg capacitor, maybe resistance across contactor, etc) but you do need to know what you are doing. BTW, in my experience, these things never go bad at a good time ( on a cool Monday vs the start of along weekend). However, I have had more than one repair that was quick fix with parts a repair person carried on his truck.....and I've had repairs when I had to wait a long hot week for a part. Good luck with it. BTW- breakers also do sometimes go bad.
  9. I'm no AC expert but have had enough problems over the years to know that it could be minor, could be major. Dirty coils or filter would kick up amperage, could be something simple like capacitor, could be more complicated like low refrigerant or a fan or compressor going bad. If you havent' had a PM in a while, it would be worth the cash....but do start with the filter. Dirty filter this time of year can cause freezeup and other fun stuff
  10. If you are not sure if it is the caulk or something more serious, you might want to fill the tub and let if just sit. If something behind the wall is leaking, I'd think you see it on the floor.
  11. Haven't done it, but my late mother-in-law had multiple layers of carpet on the deck on her house. She'd just tack on a new layer when the old one got worn- 2 or 3 layers I think. Eventually deck rotted and some of us wondered if it was because the carpet retained too much moisture. I know there are a number of different types of I/O carpet- some probably dry more readily than others. Just something to consider. Others have done this i am sure
  12. Don't overlook refurbished ones off Amazon or elsewhere. I bought a Porter Cable roofing nalier last year- refurbed with a one year warranty- for just about what a Harbor Freight one cost. Was much lighter then the HF one. Similarly bought a refurbed Bostitch framgn nailer off of the auction site. I will say that I have several of HF air staplers and a pin nailer and they have worked well. just dont' cheap out and use their fasteners is what i was told.
  13. Ozium air sanitizer- sell it on Amazon, auto stores, etc. i think it binds up odors- sort of like a super Fabreze Also- If it is bad, a shampoo of the carpet and upholstery- even wiping down with a soapy rag will do wonders. They sell all kinds of spray on auto upholstery cleaner at the parts stores. Typically spray on and blot off. That should remove or break down vs mask the odors
  14. Did my own system when I lived in FL years ago. Sandy soil made the digging reasonably easy...but it is a lot of work. Not difficult and you can plug away at it piecemeal. Buy a trenching shovel- that a a mattock make it easy in good soil. As some else said, spend some time on the design. Bigger pipe is better especially if you might later add more heads. I didn't have the ideal layout WRT lawn vs flower/plant beds but made t work just fine - I had oversized the pipe and added on when i added new flower beds and shrubs. There a/ were a lot of online material around the designing. Internal diameter of the pipe makes a big difference as far as flow and frictional losses. It and cost are why some use thinwall PVC for the lines. Bigger the pipe support more heads and longer runs. You will readily find list of how much flow and how many heads you can support with different pipe sizes. And then design conservatively so you can add more in the future. If you are going to be in the house for a while and the local geology and permits support, consider if you might add an irrigation well either now or down the road and locate the system to accommodate. You can't do it everywhere and it is an investment. However, 1) you will get a lot of water from many wells and 2) you don't need to pay the sewage bill (assuming municipal sewer) on what quickly amounts to a lot of water. If all the zones are "home run" to the same source, you might be able to use a cheap non-electrical valve system that works by cycling between zone by turning the pump on and off. These were pretty bullet proof- I don't know if they are still used. I'm now in a place with Rock and clay which make a DIY install a nightmare and I miss having a sprinkler system every summer
  15. I like the epoxy idea. But keep in mind that at least the ones i have looked into will require varnish over it. UV resistance is the issue if I recall. But looks great and lasts