rathrbefishn

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About rathrbefishn

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  1. I never did it myself, but Alton Brown would use a cast iron pan with a cheapo electric hot plate to smoke cold
  2. +1 on the benefits of Scouting. All kinds of good skills and values.
  3. looks like English Ivy. Pretty waxy and can be tough to kill.
  4. I used to work in the environmental toxicology. As a result, I don't use a whole lot of herbicides and even fewer pesticides. I am not a 100% organic grower but pretty close. I do use glyphosate based herbicides on occasion.( eg poison ivy control) Relative to some of the others herbicides it has somewhat better human toxicity and environmental fate profiles- not perfect but better than some. Glyphosate has relatively low acute toxicity to humans but there have been some much publicized linkages to various diseases. I'm not active in the toxicology field anymore but have tracked some of this. Some of the work is very anecdotal, some of it suggestive, little have found a smoking gun in independent studies. Toxicology is often this way- animal studies get us so far but it isn't a perfect correlation to humans. Science just isn't often black and white.The biggest problems with glyphosate that appear credible have been linked to occupational exposure. Monsanto bred "round-up ready" crops that let farmers spray whole fields to control weeds. The folks that kind of work have much great potential exposure than the occasional home user. That said, use caution with it or any other pesticide/herbicide. Wear gloves. Wear safety glassed. I wear rubber boots also as I can rinse them off without dragging stuff indoors. Keep your pets inside until the materials has dried. Don't spray on windy days or when rain is expected or if the temperature is beyond the range on the label. Bigger droplets don't carry as far in even lights breeze, so adjust the spray nozzle. Only treat what you have to. This is one reason I suggested pulling /digging out as much as you can. I don't get the whole weed & feed over an entire lawn that some many folks do as part of the spring routine. Follow the instructions!. One of the reasons some materials can only be used by certified professionals is that homeowners are notorious for improper use- more is not always better. In this case I would probably use the higher concentration material as I think one application would be less risky than multiple and ivy is known to be tough to kill. And no eating, drinking, smoking after application. Change out clothes and grab a shower. Better safe than sorry And be cautious in using some of the homemade herbicide recipes that seem to be everywhere online. I like the idea of vinegar but haven't found it very effective on many plants. The recipes I see of using salt and detergent make me cringe if you are going to try and grow things later- remember the Romans salting the earth. And for heavens sake, please no use of diesel of gasoline.
  5. Yep- this is the way I would go. There are all different kinds of blocks- some solid, some hollow that need a cap. Some go together with pins, some just gravity or maybe some adhesive. You are not talking about something very tall. Lots of different sizes and finishes. Some look like split face block, others like brick or flagstone. They are going to cost more than cinder blocks but are easier to install- no mortar and IMO look much better. Find a local brick yard and see what they have. Big box stores will have some also. Heavy work but very doable as DIY
  6. Virginia Creeper will give some people rashes, no everyone but some. It is very invasive. Get some small purplish berries
  7. Post a pic. I'd tear out as much as you can by hand and then spray it. You'll have to tear it out either live or dead, so may as well minimize how much you need to spray. They sell some versions of Roundup that are geared for woody plants. It has higher concentrations of glyphosate.
  8. If you haven't tried contacts in years and you don't have much of an astigmatism, you may want to try contacts again. I've worn them for ~ 35 years.....never thought about that number until now. They are thinner, more oxygen permeable, and easier to clean and more comfortable than ever. Cheaper and safer too. I've got prescription progressives I wear at night and when allergy season kicks up. Otherwise it's just readers for me. Knot tying requires me to drop the non prescription shades and pull out the readers. I think a contact lens exam costs may $100 bucks or less on top of a regular eye exam and they should you some sample lenses to buy. Lots of options from daily wear to those you pitch after a couple of weeks
  9. all the above plus cast iron will ring more and sounds different when you hit it with a hammer. Lead is more of a thud. Try to scratch /scrape with a sheet rock knife. Lead you can scratch pretty easily. Cast iron nope
  10. PS- If you want to get more smoke flavor the amazn smok tubes are great and easy to use.
  11. Creosote is a product of incomplete combustion so if that is your problem, increasing air flow may help solve. If the charcoal is damp, I could see that also not burning completely I don't have a BGE, but if you have any kind of buildup inside your smoker, I'd clean it out, fire it up to a high temp to burn off any residues and start with a clean slate.
  12. PS- short length of corrugated hose are OK, longer lengths are lint traps....
  13. I haven't had to do this (came close) but they do make in the wall dryer vent boxes. I don't know why this isnt' the standard- at least in tighter spaces. There's a bunch of different brands.
  14. Spinner baits also tend to walk over trees pretty well. Weedless jigs- eg pig and jig also. These downed trees and branches are the type of structure that hold bass- they are ambush predators that sit and wait to pounce . Sometimes bass will hang tight to the structure and you need to fish tight to it to get them to strike- that's going to push you to a use at least 8-12 lb test (mono) and a rod that lets you pull the fish away from the trees. The type of structure that draws bass is going to depend a lot on the lake- sometimes it will be shoals and ledges, sometimes drowned roads, rapid changes in depth, edge of weedbeds, docks, etc. It's going to vary based on each lake, seasonal factors and more. But trees near the shore can be great and for small man-made lakes might be the best structure in the lake. It sounds like you aren't even sure what the center of the lake is like. Yeah, it may be deeper, but it maybe not. As others have suggested, if you can get a depth chart of spend a day in a kayak, that's great.. But also take strong note of what Fishing Tim wrote- there's a lot of fish caught along the shoreline. I've spent lots of time fishing from shore and lots of time from a boat targeting shoreline structure. Mornings and evenings are good target times. Good luck
  15. There are some options for sinkers that will snag less. Bottom bouncers, I've used a few times and I think Lindy makes some that are snag resistant/proof . It's been a long time since I looked at this, but i think you can fill up short sections of tubing with heavy shot to make less snag prone sinkers. I don't have much first hand experience and the best one will depend on the kind of fishing you are doing. The specialty ones cost more, but in addition to no wanting to avoidably lose a bunch of rigs, getting snagged just eats up precious fishing time. PS- even just switching shape of standard sinkers will help- bank vs bell vs egg vs pencil vs....