BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Tyger92

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday April 22

Profile Fields

  • Gender
  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

1,167 profile views
  1. It’s good stuff, I’ve never had a issue with it. I like it for light duty because it’s limp - it doesn’t retain memory & coil up with a light jig/weightless plastic like fluoro does. It’s a soft line though so you have to watch out for abrasion & tooth marks more than other options, check it pretty often for damage after fish.. but it’s still my go to for light SW leaders & FW mainline on ultralights or when it’s too cold for braid.
  2. I’ve caught plenty that took the hook on their own, especially bigger ones. It depends on the day/how they’re biting. Some days it seems like I miss more fish when I do things the “right way”… but yeah, I would never fish with hands off the rod there, just so I know when they’ve cleaned the bait off the hook if nothing else. On a average day it’s rare to go a few minutes without at least a tap or two, on good days they can be like piranhas attacking it before it even has a chance to settle. So I’d have zero confidence in letting multiple rods sit because then I can’t feel those bait stealer nibbles. If I go a few minutes without a hit I assume the bait is gone, especially when using fleas, unless it’s one of those rare days when the bite just isn’t happening. But even in that case I still hold the rod.
  3. I usually use 20lb but that’s more out of habit than for any particular reason. If I’m fishing lighter I drop the leader strength.. if I’m throwing 1/4-1/2oz I’ll go down to 10/12/15. Anything less than 10 gets sketchy in my opinion because those tiny nicks and rashes we ignore on heavier leaders become more likely cause a break with the thin stuff. But 20lb leader with a 1/4 jig will take some action out of it too - there’s not enough weight to counter the leader stiffness/memory. So I just try to match it to what I’m throwing. Other factors come in to play that might justify something else but that’s just my general approach. But I use 20lb mono/fluoro on 15lb braid a lot - especially if I’m using a dropper loop - and still get the leader to pop before the mainline if I get hung up. Most braids are going to break at a higher strength than what they claim unless there’s a weak spot, but I wouldn’t push my luck and go more than 5lbs over what the braid is rated for. So as long as the leader pops before the braid I’m happy. If I break off on a snag I want to leave as little as possible out there.
  4. Absolutely. Try different angles first. But the best method for me has always been to open the bail and give them a few inches of slack, leave bail open & hold the line with your finger like you would to cast & wait it out. Once they feel “safe” they’ll start to swim. I usually let them go a foot or two before closing the bail and putting pressure on them, but that part depends on how deep the hole is/what kind of snag it feels like. If you’re familiar with the hole you’ll have a good feel for how much line to let them take or what direction you need to see them move in to avoid the snag again. Another trick is keeping the line tight and strumming it to irritate them, or just giving the rod aggressive shakes until they move. But the slack trick seems to work best for me. Most times you can play them out eventually unless they’re tangled in other lines down there. It takes 5-10 minutes sometimes but I’ve seen people wait a hour or two and finally get it. Personally, unless it’s a monster I’d rather just take the loss after 5 mins and get back on the bite. But it all depends on how patient you want to be. A lot of times they’ll whack it and run straight in to a hole. Sometimes the sinker gets wedged in the process, sometimes the line is between a paper thin space between rocks, sometimes they just lock their self in. If you wait a few seconds you can usually feel them pulling back once they decide to move. But a tap & snag is a lot more questionable than a run and snag. They rarely drop the hook once they’re really on, so if you have pressure on them and they’re running before you get snagged it’s pretty likely they’re still on there. The slack trick or line slap/rod shake tricks will usually get them to move if you want confirmation that they’re still on - sometimes it takes a few maneuvers to get them to move though so don’t give up if the first attempt seems lifeless.
  5. As far as the 7.5’ vs 10’ rod opinions, it all depends on where you’re fishing I guess. A 10’ rod has absolutely no place in my arsenal for flatties. I rarely fish more than 3/4oz for them.. usually 1/4-1/2 from the beach. A 7’6” rod is perfect for that - sometimes I’ll bump up to an 8’ for rougher conditions. No rod is going to be ideal for both fluke and respectable stripers. I’ve never held a 10’ rod that I’d want to throw light jigs with all day, or one that would make the average fluke fun. Now if we’re talking a fluke + schoolie rod, there are plenty of options that cover both bases. 8’ DNA is my go to for both if I can’t decide between a 7’6” Demon for the flatties or 8’8” Airwave Elite for schoolies. My airwave elite outcasts the 11’ TFO - both rated to the same specs, both throwing the same load - by a noticeable distance. Length isn’t always a advantage with lighter gear. A fluke rod isn’t going to be a cow rod, or vice versa. And just to get back on topic, 15lb is plenty. 20 isn’t overkill if you’re expecting big fish, but when you consider how light your rod is and what your drag is set on, 15 shouldn’t cause any limitations.
  6. I’d go with 15lb - that’s what I have on my 8’ DNA and it works great. I’ve foul hooked rays and managed them without break off issues or the legendary issue of the “hour long tug of war”. I use 10lb on my lighter setup that I only fish on flat calm sandy spots without hard structure - I’ve actually been thinking about dropping lower for that particular setup. But 15 is a safe bet. I see absolutely no reason for 30 on light/medium setups unless you’re worried about getting wrapped on serious structure.
  7. 8’ Fenwick inshore rated 2-5oz has been my favorite inlet rod by far when I need heavier stuff and might run in to bigger fish. The tip isn’t soft but it’s “just right” so it’s not a broom stick up top either, I throw down to 3/4oz comfortably and to the upper end without issue. The backbone is insane, it makes average fish sporty enough to enjoy with the top third, but the reserve power in middle/bottom can steer just about anything when something big enough to “activate” that bend hits. It has a shorter rear grip than most other rods - that’s my only complaint - it can feel awkward to cast when your muscle memory is tuned to surf rod style layouts with longer butts. But everything else about it makes up for that. I know, it’s shorter than the typical inlet recommendations but I prefer that for the turning & landing aspect of the fight and also feels more comfortable to work a jig with to me rather than with a longer rod.
  8. I agree. A BG is a great reel for anyone who doesn’t get sucked in to the wormhole of always looking for “the best”. I still use a few different sizes in my rotation and they all get the job done. Are they as smooth & light as a Stradic & Vanford, or as refined as a Stella? No. But they get the job done. Are they as bulletproof as a Saragosa? No. But they’re solid. Are they a good idea for deep wading and carefree fishing like VS? No. But that’s a limited option market to begin with. They aren’t top end reels, they aren’t the smoothest or lightest, but they’re very high functioning and dependable - and easy to service on top of that as long as you have access to the replacement parts when/if needed. It all depends on what your budget is & how much you care about the finer points. I prefer smoother/lighter/better reels because I fish almost every day so appreciate the difference I feel, but if it’s all I had I wouldn’t feel like I was short handed. If you’re only using them occasionally & you’re not accustomed to the refinements of higher end gear, you’ll be in great shape with one. The only issue I’ve had since the new version came out is the plastic washers under the spool seem to wear down or compress faster than any other reel I’ve owned at that price point and above (and I have a few friends who experienced the same thing and have heard about the issue elsewhere too). But that’s a quick, easy, cheap fix to get the line lay back on track after a season or so. My buddy had one with a dud anti-reverse out of the box, but that was out of the first batch & it was warrantied. Haven’t seen that issue since. Long story short, there’s no reason to upgrade from the BG for what you want to do with it.
  9. A Saragosa 6000 has been my go to there for years, it’ll cover tog and most other situations in there flawlessly. I’ve beat mine on those rocks for years and it’s still great, never had a hiccup, no maintenance other than a little oil. I actually pulled one out of the bay that had been there for a quite a while - all crusty and looked like a goner if it was a lesser reel. Cleaned it up and the internals were 100% fine, fully functional after who knows how long down there. Even the bail springs and line roller bearing survived. But there are plenty of cheaper options. BGs are great at their price point. The gosa is just a battle tested bulletproof reel if you don’t mind spending the extra money on it. I’ve only had the newest edition for a year now so I can’t say it’s as great as the previous model I’ve used and abused, but it seems solid to me so far.
  10. This. All things considered I feel like 832 covers all bases great. Smooth, not too stiff and not too limp, great abrasion resistance, doesn’t fade as fast as many others, knots well and has very consistent quality. The price isn’t crazy either. I have power pro ssv2 on a few reels and I don’t hate it, but also don’t like it anywhere near as much as 832. It seems like a looser weave to me, definitely softer/more limp (which isn’t always bad, just not my preference), not as abrasion resistant and the color fades fast (not a big deal, but it does). I can’t think of any reason to choose it over 832.
  11. I haven’t tried samurai, but have a decent amount of mileage with power pro, SSV2 & JBraid. Regular power pro is fine for bait fishing but not much else. Super Slick v2 isn’t bad but it’s a little limp and seems kinda loosely woven (starts to come apart especially towards the tag end) - but that doesn’t seem to cause major issues with breaking strength. Color also fades very fast. JBraid is horrible in my opinion; I’d use the random gibberish brands from Amazon before I ever touch that stuff again. Way too limp, weird break offs, it sticks to itself on the spool when it dries so it throws wind knots like crazy next time out - it’s almost like it’s spongey and absorbent. 2 seasons, 2 separate spools, hated it equally both times around. I have no idea why it gets so much praise. Sufix 832 is my go to, seems like the best balance of smoothness, abrasion resistance and being right in the magic middle ground between stiff and limp. And it holds its color well. I don’t hate power pro ssv2 though.. just prefer 832 without any hesitation if I have the choice.
  12. I tried the 6” fb fight clubs this summer.. they’re nice. I’m 100% confident in gulp’s ability to catch and I’m loyal to it, so it was hard for me to put it down for the fishbites. But I did manage a few fish on it when I gave it a solid shot.. I wouldn’t say it’s better than gulp (scent wise, at least) but it works well enough. The material is thicker and denser than gulp (the 6” grubs weigh about a oz on their own) and they have much better and more consistent action imo. More of a swaying swimming motion than the rapid corkscrew looking action a flimsier gulp tail has. They don’t fall apart nearly as fast either - a blue will still destroy it - but they hold up better than gulp after a few fish or a grab from a crab. I tried the smaller 3 or 4” fishbites grubs a couple years ago and I didn’t like them at all - too stiff for me. But the 6” was a lot more impressive. I dropped the fishbites grub down next to gulp in a spot that’s loaded with tail nippers; the crabs and puffers are definitely more attracted to the gulp scent.. So that makes me think other fish are going to be more attracted to it too. But the 6” fight clubs definitely look better in action.. I’ll stick with gulp for flounder/fluke, but I’d be more likely to take a 6” fight club as a bucktail trailer for stripers for the visual factor if I wanted something scented.
  13. As long as they’re cool they’ll be fine in the car overnight. Just make sure there aren’t any dead ones in the bunch or it will smell horrible.. and you’ll smell it for a while.
  14. Production quality is lower and there’s no star power.. Imagine “You Won’t Believe What I Caught HERE!?!?” Directed by Michael Bay, starring Tom Cruise and Will Smith & narrated by Morgan Freeman.
  15. The average viewer wants entertainment, so if the YouTuber wants to make maximum profit they cater to that. The videos with titles like “I caught THIS in THERE!?!?!?!” seem to get a lot more hits than titles along the lines of “how to tie this knot”… I think that’s because the average person looking at YouTube for advice doesn’t know enough to know what they need to learn.. And now we have a whole generation of try hards that imitate their favorite YouTube star who ironically doesn’t really know what they’re doing either, they just understand the market and how to get views. That’s not a shot at all YouTubers, some of them are great fishermen who really have something to offer.. but after fishing with a few and seeing or being involved with the behind the scenes stuff, a lot of them are just as clueless as their viewers. They’re just good at talking the talk; it’s all about the show.