NEStripers

BST Users
  • Content count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About NEStripers

  • Rank
    Member

Converted

  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    surf/canal fishing, golf, hunting
  • What I do for a living:
    Mechanical Engineer

Profile Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Massachusets
  1. Honest question - is every single ZB and VS tested for water intrusion before it leaves the plant?
  2. I would be interested in those answers as well. A torque 2 5500 bailess has been on my radar for a while now, but maybe the gen 1 has superior sealing? I always assumed the gen 2 was a leg up because I cant remember the gen 1 having an IP rating other than that it was "sealed" I know there was another thread on here about the gen 2 reels when they first came out, but an up to date review from someone with a few years of hard use would be awesome
  3. Couldnt agree more with this. Fishing the Big T is cool, and with the right guide you can have an awesome day on the water But for me anyway, the bread and butter of this park has always been the high altitude lakes and the seemingly endless, feisty and hungry trout that swim in them Here's a picture of a pretty average cutty caught up at ~11,000 ft. We were dry wadding from sandy beach, fishing the inflow of the pond with a dry fly. We had a lot of tight lines that day.
  4. 2nd on weather underground - its one of my go-to's, I find the wind predictions to be pretty accurate
  5. Berkley has a line out called Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon XL - its "supposedly" developed specifically for spinning reels (at least thats what the box claims) I just loaded up two freshwater spinning reels with it last night. If i can remember, ill follow up on how they work out I try to load fluoro on spinning reels with spool laying flat so the line can "naturally" peel off of the spool
  6. Ive been kicking this idea around for a long time too however, I also dont think a round housing will work with a 704 or larger series penn, due to the way the line lay is controlled we have an old CNC here at work, it needs a few parts (which i have on order) and once I get that running again my goal is to cut a few experimental housing on it Ive spent some time looking over reel designs and the IMO the zeebaas design is nearly perfect, there are a lot of good attributes that can be taken from it.
  7. thanks! I've used so many to learn how to do things over the years, figured its time to start giving back. Ill bet that motors still being used today! Definitely - I picked one up with all the pieces a few season ago from a yard sale for $100!
  8. Thank you! At one point I owned a 1956 7.5hp Evinrude and what a champ that motor was. Super easy to work on and tune, and the components were all very quality; bolts and screws that could actually be reused. Still kicking myself for selling that one.
  9. A few weekends ago I picked up this 1975 Johnson 9.9 long shaft electric start off of craigslist. I didn’t get to hear it run before I bought it, but considering the condition, and having owned a number of these traditionally bullet proof motors, I was confident with the purchase. I threw her in a barrel with some fresh gas and hooked up a battery; after two clicks she sparked right up.. win! A few tweaks of the adjustment screws and the motor was idling like new. The neglect and abuse that this generation of OMC motors can handle always amazes me. I let the motor idle in the barrel until she warm then checked that both the forward and reverse gears spun the prop correctly and moved water. They did, but with some throttle applied I noticed the motor wasn’t spitting great water and there was even some water leaking out as if water was getting into the lower leg cavity. I had a good suspicion that the seal on the water housing was to blame so I ordered up a full rebuild kit that night, the following weekend I got to work. The first step was to loosen up – but not completely remove – the (6) hex bolts connecting the lower and upper units. The goal here is to expose the upper slotted screw of the brass coupling connecting the shift linkage so that the screw can be removed and the lower unit will pull freely after completely removing the (6) bolts. If the bolts are removed first, the weight of the lower unit can bend and damage the shift linkage. I like to hold the lower unit between two pieces of 4x4 clamped to my bench. It gives me the freedom to easily remove the lower unit if it needs to be maneuvered or to be able to tip it upside down if a screw falls into one of the cavities. This being a long shaft version, you’ll notice the water pump isn’t quite exposed yet, and that means I had (6) more hex bolts to back out before I could take away the long shaft extension. This was my first look at the water pump (undoubtedly original) and it confirmed all of my suspicions. Although it is clearly a low hours motor, I had suspected, based on the town I bought it from, that it was used in salt and I think (I’m not a chemist) that the orange is crystallized salt. Luckily, there was no other evidence of salt or corrosion that I could find. (4) More hex bolts removed and surprisingly the impeller looked to be in great shape – still very flexible and no indication of dry rot. It’s good to be careful when lifting the water pump off they are keyed in with a very small (maybe 1/16”) stainless pins that will find the smallest crack in your garage floor, don’t worry though, the rebuild kit will have a new one. Out with the old, in with the new! OMC made few dimensional updates to the outside of the housing and notably a material change from a powered metal to a glass reinforced plastic. The important thing to note here is that the direction of the impeller fins MUST be oriented identically to the original. Since the motor shaft only spins in one direction, installing the fins in the wrong direction will mean no to very little output from the water pump and a likely damaging the new impeller. The trickiest part when reinstalling the new unit was keying in the new impeller pin. I used a very narrow pair of needle nose pliers and some thick grease (not pictured) to help hold the pin in place. Now for reassembly - tighten up the (4) housing bolts Secure the (6) long shaft extension bolts The units were now ready to be matted; this took a little bit of coordination; the water tube, shaft linkage, and drive shaft all need to find their homes. The water tube will only require a firm push to seat, the shift linkage needs to be carefully aligned in the brass coupling, then the secured with its slotted screw, and the drive shaft is splined, if it does not feel like the drive shaft is properly in place, turn the fly wheel slowly until the splines engage and the two lower unit halves seat. All that’s left to do is tighten up the remaining bolts and go for a spin! I wanted to wrap up by saying that I am not and do not claim to be an outboard mechanic, this is just a hobby of mine, so if something looks funny or I made a mistake please feel free to note it in the comments below! I am just trying to pass along some helpful information to people who may be tentative about diving into a DIY repair as I was when I first got started! Tight lines!
  10. Ill take lot 2 - paypal?
  11. What are the weight ranges of the Gibbs?
  12. God Bless Mary! Great idea to generate some excitement
  13. Im in! Thanks!
  14. Agreed - saltwater fly fishing was always something I "wanted to try" and then my brother signed us up as a team for the turny last year. We had a blast at the tournament, met a lot of great people, caught some good fish and as a result, over the course of last summer I ended up fly fishing more than I used my spin gear! By the way I am in my late 20's - so cheers to the cheeky tournament
  15. What is the lure rating of 9' 6" version? I could see that rod being a blast for early spring schoolies Question answered in previous post