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  • About Me:
    Deeply enjoy the lure customization, and hunt of the big ones.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fierce love of all things outdoors.
  • What I do for a living:
    Synthetic chemist in the pulp and paper industry

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  1. Reach out to the builder. If you don't hear back or cannot get in touch, there are quite a number of plug guys who would be more than happy to help you out. If it gets abused a lot, you could consider asking for the lip to be screwed in. Then no matter how loose the wire gets, the lip will never move, and can be replaced if needed ad infinitum...
  2. Kphresh


    Great analysis here. I would 100% second that a jointed plug, while it has great enticing action, will never get as deep. And when comparing a Conrad to a Troller, a historically accurate Conrad will dig and dive much deeper and faster unless the Trolling plug is insanely heavily weighted. Conrads are great plugs, the only difficulty with building them is just getting the lip right. It's a custom job.
  3. FWIW - I used Rosco for a while, but 2 seasons ago I had more failed swivels than ever. Exactly like from your picture, just completely pulled the bottom loop. Never will use them again. Switched to KROK 500lb and haven't had any problems since. They are getting hard to source unfortunately... but if you can get some I'd recommend highly. They hold up even on the heavier abuse from boats. Maybe reach out direct to the source. Spro obviously good too. Just don't recommend using up the Rosco's. Put them in the garbage where they belong.
  4. Mayo jar with a splash of juice and filled with whatever you need for that outing. Can use any method of attachment to belt/bag/backpack you want. The more gulps you put in the less splash. You really only need a little bit in there anyway to keep em wet.
  5. Agree with all the above, no matter what you do if you've cut and exposed some fresh metal it's all downhill from there. Good thing about the VMC's is they are very affordable so anyone can replace them on a budget after the season. I did up my stock hooks to the 6x which helps a bit, but the protective coating actually tends to flake off a bit more when putting them on the swivels due to the beefier guage eyelet needing a bit more persuasion. Honestly, if someone came up with a way to manufacture a VMC 6x 3/0 already on a 500lb swivel.....
  6. Nice profile on that plug, you're off to a great start. One thing to consider, with those rotisserie motors when you add more plugs you will get a more noticeable 'bounce' in the spin. This can cause all sorts of issues down the road. Take a look at @Punch63 thread on his new spinner. You will not be able to make the sleds like his for your particular style but just keep in mind the motor style and the orientation of the plugs while spinning. This will allow you to finish more plugs at the same time, and you will encounter far fewer epoxy related blemishes that come up in the last step of building. He did a great job with sharing that build, it is definitely worth a read.
  7. Plug style not as important as the actual dimensions of your individual plug. Some deeper bodied plugs will require a size up vs. a slimmer profile. In general I agree with @lazzyone, cut hooks is the way to go if you like a cleaner profile with less chances of fouling both on the dive plane and between belly hooks. Adding a split ring will require to you place your belly hooks farther apart, which will affect your swim (both because of the center of balance as well as isolating the pendulum action of the plug because of the split rings). I also prefer a single belly hook on smaller plugs with an inline single on the tail (talking 6in or less). Larger plugs benefit from having 2 hooks because of the ballast/balance effect but you can deal with that by adding some belly weight and moving it appropriately for your particular plug style. A tail flag is a great addition to any plug in my opinion. Depending on the denseness and length of the flag you can even impart some additional dampening to a plug, but it will be minor compared to other features like hook placement/lip style and bend/dive plane steepness/etc.... I've been a VMC guy, but I used to have a good source for the Mustads and really preferred them. Now it's really just a convenience factor. I know the VMC's work and I know I can pretty much always get them in bulk.
  8. Don't make these too often. Went silver over white, swim is a slithery subsurface. Dives appropriately
  9. @Eric_S they don't really like to ship I don't think, but you can tell them what you want (size, quantity, grade, etc...) and they will bundle for you to pick up on the weekend. The place has cameras so you don't have to worry about someone stealing your wood, they'll know if something weird happens. Just an option for those of us who can't take a day off to make the trip. @Ed White Thanks for the heads up, you can definitely find some gems in the knotty wood pile
  10. Best thing you can do is find a resin that you like that the longest pot life. A lot of companies will also tell you the product viscosity at Room Temp. So the combination of a low viscosity and long pot life resin should get you what you want.
  11. @adobo sorry if I missed this earlier in the thread, but are you mixing your balloons by weight or by volume? Reason I ask is because I frequently mix my resin with about 110% by volume and it is not at all difficult or thick. Possibly just simply due to the difference in resins used. The resin I chose was specific to my desire to do high loading of balloons and not have viscosity and/or foaming issues.
  12. New to me plug, had a blast working it out last weekend. The action is just about perfect to what I would want. Now I just need to make a few more and get them painted up. I'm making them out of AYC to those curious about the lip. I think I saw Steel Pulse post a Nike that had a reinforced front face so got me thinking I'd like to try that on a softer wood version of a darter. I'm just cutting a Pikie 3 lip right now and that seems to fit nicely. May look into acquiring some lip blanks in the future to be a little more consistent. Glad I did too, I like to test my plugs pretty hard for roll out and this one just dug and dug until I was clipping bottom at ~6ft in a very rocky location.
  13. Hopefully this will keep the ball rolling for further removal projects. I took part in the Shad tagging study last Spring and the drop off in numbers was staggering. I had outings in 2022 which I caught 20+ shad. I think the entire 2023 study only was able land about that many for the tagging effort. Could have been just a cyclical thing, as well as a result of lower than usual rain during prime shad run months. But any effort to restore the waterway is welcome by me.
  14. The short answer is yes, you can do this. But... It creates a weight that is structurally not sound and tends to crumble when any force is applied to it (say, pushing it into a belly hole). While you could use up some tungsten shot in this way, it really is more of a pain than it's worth in my opinion. I have also tried a similar use by mixing with bondo. Problem is, you have to leave a gap at the top to then cover with a bondo topcoat so that when you are sanding flush you don't end up sanding off exposed tungsten beads too. The glossy nature of the shot tends to have them wanting to pop out of whatever medium they are embedded in.
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