Kphresh

Little spook popper, never tried but very pleased. Definitely need to make more, mostly so I can have one ahhahaha

If you leave square ends on, you can also just chuck it back up in the lathe and use a Skew to take off the extra protruding filler. Can do this for any of the above mentioned fillers.

I tend to use scraps of through wire to hold plugs while painting and to hang them up while drying. After the paint is dry I will use a long screw sized just about the same as the through wire hole diameter so it holds but doesn't bite the sealed wood. Only do it this way because of how I have my spinner set up. A lot of this really depends on how your spinner is designed.

There is a lot to unpack here: Loop size can affect feedback to the angler as well as action imparted to the plug from tension on the line (I would think mostly in the horizontal oreintation, but possibly vertical) A very large loop may also cause more roll, but usually roll is not so much a factor of nose loop size Gliders definitely benefit from a vertical line tie, I think it probably helps the glide motion to have a pull in the X directions Some things to also consider would be are you direct tying? Is is clipped? Are you using a loop knot etc... Lipped plugs will pretty much always have a horizontal tie due to punched out slot most manufactured lips being horizonal. Unless you make your own, there's not much to be done about that. Also, tuning a metal lip to swim shallow or deep depends on the loop to be horizontal. Otherwise you couldn't unless there was a way to add weight like some musky lures are made. As far as metal lips go I'd say the horizontal tie is king. If we're talking Spooks, Pencils, Gliders, anything topwater or lipless... Well, I don't know for sure.

Just wanted to push anyone else here who hasn't already sent a letter/email to take a moment and write up something. We still have a couple days left. If you need a starting point I don't mind sending my letter to anyone that needs the extra push. Regardless of what is counted or not at least we have tried in our own way. Send me a PM if you want my copy to read and modify. My support for the various options aligned 99% with ASGA (I was even more conservative only on 1 option). They did do an even more thorough breakdown (included Options C/D/E in section 4.6.2), so you could add a bit more if you felt inclined.

Sure no problem. PM sent

Check out the summary ASGA did. Just type in ASGA and Amendment 7, that should get you what you want. I think someone also did a nice summary here too.

I wrote mine and would be willing to share with anyone that needs a starting point so it's not so overwhelming.

I'll take that bottom Mandoborg danny, I think it was blue and pink?? @Antagonizer you're up! Round 3 Kones1 (3) Kphresh (0) Antagonizer (0) Chunkah (0) Eelbasher (0) Punch63 (2) Mandoborg (1) Glasshouse (1) T-Man (0)

Sorry for the delay. I'll grab that last Chunkah, I believe it's the green one! @Antagonizer you're up Round 2 Chunkah (0) Punch63 (2) Eelbasher (3) Kphresh (0) Antagonizer (1) T-Man (1) Kones1 (3) Glasshouse (1) Mandoborg (3)

I'll take the T-Man Birch darter, looks killer dude. @eelbasher you're up Round 1 glasshouse (1) T-man (2) Mandoborg (3) Chunkah (2) Kones1 (3) Antagonizer (2) Punch63 (2) Kphresh (1) Eelbasher (3)

Donald duck aint looking so good these days...

@Antagonizer that white danny with the amber eyes got me drooling on my keyboard. Very nice work

Basically any decoy eye company, but yea they are very pricey compared to plastic or decal eyes. You can sometimes find 'seconds' eyes on those shops pages that are off color or the pupil isn't quite centered for a bit better deal.

Use a soldering iron. Prop it up, lay the wire on it and let it heat up.