MikeFlyGuy

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About MikeFlyGuy

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    Cape Cod

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  1. Reasonable to assume but I wasn't confusing with the RPLXi with the RPLX. I had a 9 weight RPLXi for a while and still have a 7 weight. What happened was I built a 10 weight RPLXB in 1990 or so and always loved the rod. Recently a factory built came up for sale online which I purchased. My old one was designated RPLXB with a different typeface than the factory built RPLX. I knew the butt cap on the factory built changed at least once, but I should have guessed the "B" stood for blank only and nothing else. Sometimes my brain is slow.
  2. Thanks. Yes, I remember those. Saved a step figuring that out.
  3. Thanks saltfisherman! I did build the old one I have.
  4. Does anyone by any chance know what the difference is between the Sage RPLX and RPLXB fly rods? I know at one point they changed the fighting butt from a rubber cap to a foam cap. But wondering if there was something different about the blank as well. Thanks!
  5. Philly, What I meant about "more standard fly rod configuration" was the number of guides versus the type, snake or single foot. Right now the rod has 6 guides on it with the same spacing it came with as a Carp rod. But as I'm sure you know a typical 12 foot Two Handed fly rods can have 11-12 guides. Thanks everyone for your inputs. It is a heavy rod to cast but so far that's been OK. Give me a few more years of aging and those heavy guides may get replaced!
  6. Last year I converted a Carp rod to a two hander and in the conversion process I left the tip-top and most of the guides as they were. (I did reduce the size of the bottom two.) But I wonder if the casting characteristics of the rod would improve if I set it up with a more standard fly rod guide configuration? By casting characteristics I mean loop control. It doesn't seem like it would but maybe someone has experience proving otherwise. I would rather leave it the way it is since it shoots line really well. Thanks, Mike
  7. Jansik Special. I've had a number of times when the tippet break before this knot. I also use it to connect backing to the spool, but I add one loop to each set of loops.
  8. Red, Not sure what GSP is, but I've been using Airflo Miracle Braid, 30lb. I told you about the day I was standing on top of a jetty with a strong tail wind. I had 130+ feet of that stuff in my basket and it performed very well. Not many tangles and long distance hook sets of fish were successful. The problem is it's abrasiveness. You need to either use some sort of tape or finger guard for stripping. Mike
  9. The video is very interesting. Well thought out way to prove a point. I wonder though doesn't a bend in a rod provide an elastic band in case the fish you are fighting changes direction an comes somewhat towards you? If you are using barbless hooks, not sure this method would be for you.
  10. I also switched to 50 braid. You can get a little more 50 braid than most 30 dacron.
  11. I see. Yeah if you are having a hard time with a spinning rod, for sure the fly rod would be worse. I tend to fish areas at low tide out on the beds, and there are a lot of places that I can cast from halfway down the embankment, still being high enough to backcast over the access road, but still close enough to the water. Of course have to look both ways before casting. If any of you guys, Flyphoto, Graveyard Shift, or xjclint feel like some fly rod company on the canal, let me know. I'd love to join you. I haven't been fishing with the big crowds as of late. But with a fellow fly fisher it would be more enjoyable. Mike
  12. I used a high home entertainment center with books similar to what you are suggesting. But also needed some heavy dumbbell weights to counteract the leverage on the rod once the bending process starts.
  13. I agree, you really need a blue water setup, 12 or 13 wt with a fly line that has a 50lb core and backing at 50lb. That way you can feel safer in using a 25 or 30 lb tippet. In some locations along the canal, if you don't hold the the fish back as soon and as much as possible it will sound into deeper water and there may be a ridge where the line rests on top of at which point there is no way to put pressure on the fish and it will most likely be lost. I understand the desire to use longer rods and skagit casts but those rods aren't fighting tools. At this point I'm fortunate enough to be able to handle a single handed heavier weight rod and still get good distance but it took time in practice and just doing it.
  14. In my opinion a 9wt rod isn't enough for fighting a large canal fish, especially when the current is moving. Even a 10 weight doesn't feel adequate.
  15. Thank you Esa. Mike