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About 757saltwater

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  1. Dont hit the lu to get off .. .you will break the aluminum.
  2. It's a simple setup. Move into gear and see if linkage moves on the powerhead. If it does pull lower unit and check shift rod . While lu off move shifter again to see linkage moves in the mid setion. . Maybe who ever did water pump last time didn't reinstall the linkage right. Or the splines are chewed up. Usually 4 -6 bolt on lu and one under trim tab . Depending on shift rod might be a pin in there , screwed on or just splines... while lu off check and turn by hand . Grease all bolts and splines...
  3. If you think the hub is bad .mark it with a white out pen on the hub metal part and rubber part of the prop .I perfer the back side of the prop .put a straight line. Go run the prop and motor in the water. After doing a quick run Pull prop and see if line moved or you still have a straight line . If your line moved misaligned broken etc your hub kit in your prop is bad..
  4. Looks no different then my tubes that I have pulled behind my boat In the past to current date. The picture above shows exactly what I have used as well to inflate them and delfate. You shouldn't need anything spacial.
  5. Heard through the grapevine Penn sold off and has new owners and we'll be making changes....any truth to this?
  6. 3 blades are generally faster then 4 blades on mph but 4 blades get out the hole quicker. 4 blades are better for stern lift vs a 3 blade as well. What is wot rpm for that motor and what are you hitting now ?with what prop?
  7. Not much diff then my cat. Same spot but need to raise the bracket to 1/2 above the bottom the hull. You transducer is below. Which causes more dirty water and drag equal dirty-false readings. Will also cause a rooster tail spray under way. I also think your motor is mounted low. Looks like someone added the poon to the rear of a jon boat. could be stock from manufacture is a clean mount.maybe to help with weight on the rear . I almost added some at one point on a old project and i think when you do you run the engine higher. I see you have a hydro foil . Are you experience proposing issues.?
  8. Stack two 2x6 tall so your have a 12inch board. Then glass them. Insert between the transom and support wedge. . Epoxy the holes.
  9. You can order boxes online from the usps for free and and they will ship them to your door. You can sch pickup from home to when shipping out. Btw sometime the Regional a and b boxes are cheaper then the flat rate box even though they are the same size.
  10. Find the next boat show that's near you .go to it they normally have their people their marketing their membership .usually offered at half off vs a retail stores. About 100$...alot of boater dont know this.....
  11. Your test on volts means nothing. You can have over 13 volts and still have a bad battery under a load tester go to harbor frieght and buy a load tester. Under 20$ . 4 years is about the extent life of a marine battery. Reaplace it. Group 27 is a small battery for trolling motor they wont last long..go to a bigger group battery if your looking for longer run times. Yes there sealed agm deep cycle or wet cell not sealed deep cycle .100 diff in Batteries easily. Maybe this is what you seen... You can run trolling motors with multiply batteries for longer period of run times. Just make sure you wire it for 12 volts or 24 volts .
  12. What would happen if you did do that and found some stray current around a marina or dock?
  13. I'm not a mercury guy at all.i play with suzuki's..on Suzuki the shifter for the lower unit is right behind the drive shaft once lower unit is off.its a little 2 inch - 3 or 5 spline nub. I use vise grip to turn it . So I dont see a issue with leaving it in forward on the lower unit. In forward the lower unit should turn clockwise .Now go put your shifter in forward as well on the helm. Shouldn't matter. Reinstall lower unit . As long as both the shifter and lower unit are in synced forward to forward. Or nuetral to neutral or reverse to reverse it should matter what one you do on reinstall. It's just a linkage .
  14. There's two cables shifter cable moves first then the gas throttle cable
  15. Simple. First pull cowl. Move shifter on helm and make sure cable moves on the motor end that makes the shift linakage move. Once you confirm this moves move on. If it feels jammed or lots of resistance remove lower unit .. Once lower unit is removed. The linkage should be free. Try step one again. If nothing moves again your cable on the throttle end might have came loose . You can check throttle cable end first before taking lower unit off doesnt matter. Once you confirm cables move and linakgr does when lower unit is off then put lower unit in nuetral and the shifter in nuetral. Reinstall. Grease your shafts while out