757saltwater

BST Users
  • Content count

    449
  • Joined

  • Last visited

2 Followers

About 757saltwater

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,777 profile views
  1. How most boats are setup from factory . Setup the float directly to battery not the common. If.you put on the common from your battery 1-2 switch everything else will have power to. Or run a manually switch in-between to activate the float power when the main switch is off. Easy to do. BTW bilge wil not get all the water out ,will get smelly and stay wet. ..
  2. If you do not use seastar fluid and use tranny fluid or an alternative it will make the seastar turn harder. I have seen many commercial guy do this and there steering was tighter then the norm. I actually tested this on a personal boat with a brand new baystar system . Ran the baystar with tranny fluid vs actually seastar fluid. End result it works but steering was probly 2-3 times harder to turn then normal . No shakes or shutter ,sliky smooth ,no leaks. I personally think the seastar is a thinner or finer fluid vs tranny fluid. If you have a worn out system it might be better then stock fluid but other then that or an emergency i.dont see the need for it.
  3. Ethanol allows the water to mix with the gas. It will be a cloudy orange or yellow. before with non ethanol the water would separate and sit below the gas . You could actually pull the sender and siphon just the water out . You could see the separation. Now since ethanol it allows water to mix with the gas and the ethanol. So water separator are not as effective as before. They Still work but imo not as good. Now add this to the gas going just bad quicker ,give most people a recipe to destroy there fuel system if not used frequently. It will gel and varnish thing ,parts will get stopped up.
  4. BTW was your tank top off before storage this winter?
  5. There is a seal on top of the hpp inside the vst . Black about and inch long. Replace it prone to cracking and suckkng air. I can take a picture later today of one. BTW just take the intake off. So much easier. You can not mess up. Just unplug everything from the block and leave everything attached to the intake when removing. Intake comes off as one big piece. Again I can take a picture for you later today.
  6. I just picked up a 16ft deep v alum hull. 50hp yam. Harness is out and doesn't run but I can see what dia and pitch was on it.
  7. Those are design to withstand the weather. Just have the hole facing down so it doesn't fill up with water. I usually mount those on the outside of the console near the windshield Inbetween the grab rail .you can install inside the cc as well just takes away from the sound a little.
  8. Engine height will change the rpm once you have the right height. Once you have that dialed in then you can go test props. BTW you need more then 400 rpms. But I will not suggest anything until the engine height is correct. Just wasting time and money at this point till you solve that.
  9. Is this a typical launch for yall .. I've seen dry launching down south but never this. Looks like a big mess .
  10. Here you go. Just seen this today. Here is a option for you. Part number 55181-95200 All 2 strokes and df4 thur df15 4 strokes. Flush hose attachment Never used this nor have I seen where it goes on the smaller motors. Looks like it might screw into the block or mid section.
  11. Look what fell off the ups truck. Seastar Extreme jackplate.
  12. I personally haven't read the new 9.9 manuals but when I get back to work Monday I can.. i do know The smaller motors don't like the muff. You can't get the muffs on tight enough and the motor doesn't pee consistent. Just get a plastic tote and fill up with water to flush it.
  13. I am in the industry. Care to elaborate what actually went down and the scenario of what happen. Just like any shop there are posted prices and I am sure there was a quote or estimate done before he left or dropped the boat off. I just don't see a boat getting messed up on service work unless it was neglected over the years and manintence not done.. then bolts needed to be heated ,cut or more. This is a common thing in my industry. Worst case scenario I see is stuck lower unit from not changing out the lower unit,greasing fitting and mid or l.u is modified to rectify the situation. This does happen but with the correct mechanic and experience it can be minimized. In the boat world every one let's there friend try first making the situation worse before they actually bring it to us. So we have to correct what others have done.
  14. . They are either aluminum or stainless steel which will be in the water. . Sure some come painted from factory but that is just cosmetics . Zinc and anodes can visual be looked at to see if they have life left or not. Pictures would help.