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About nesportsman

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    Massachusetts from Northshore to Cape Cod

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  1. The Quickshooter XP is an intermediate line and was designed to load a rod quickly. The floating lines will be lighter and have a larger diameter making them more wind resistant. For example the Quickshooter XP is 45 gr heavier than the equivalent Striper Intermediate, so you're essentially uplining the rod. If collapsing it could also be outside of the temperature range of the line and it's too pliable. I would try a new line on your H3 9w, either a Rio OBS Intermediate or the Quickshooter XP if you liked that one and see if you have the same problems before grabbing a new rod. Lastly clean your fly line. You'll be amazed how much better a clean line casts vs a really dirty one.
  2. I use the H3D 8w to throw the same sized and larger hollow fleyes and only pull out the 10w when I start throwing 14" beast fleyes (or it's really damn windy). For novice casters we'll throw Rio OBS and more advanced casters we'll use the Royal Wulff triangle taper and both have no problems turning over the flies or casting them. What is the problem when casting them? Was it just a really strong headwind?
  3. Total boat 2 part floatation foam (2lb density) from Jamestown Distributors. Pick the hottest day you have to do the foam and you'll get a lot more expansion out of it. I didn't want to wait for a 80+ day so did it on a 70-74 degree day and didn't get nearly as much expansion as I would have wanted.
  4. It was $3300 all in but most of that was in the new engine ($1800) and the electronics (9" unit on clearance for $300). Next to that I really spared no expense and things like the LED low profile nav lights were close to $400. If i remember right the complete hull was around $600 including fiberglass, foam (it's completely foam filled), paint, etc. Labor I didn't keep track of but only put in maybe 2-3 full days of work and 30 mins to an hour here and there. I didn't have enough clamps to do the deck runners for instance so would do 2-3 at a time and there are a bunch. I started the build around middle of June and was done in Sept all without sacrificing time I would normally be out fishing.
  5. Looks like this thread was resurrected from 2016. If you're still looking for pics of how the pads look and are installed reply here and I'll post up some pics of mine.
  6. The Conchfish looks cool but would be a bit more involved of a build than a stitch and glue for sure. I wouldn't go out and start cutting into the hull design of an existing boat. Any problems down the line will likely get you zero support from anyone and I can't imagine the resale on something like that being great. Freeboard is a good thing even on a fly fishing boat, it just makes landing fish a little more of a reach. Get a net with a longer handle is a cheap solution to that. There is no such thing as a perfect boat and there will always be compromises. Modified Vs make a good compromise in most cases. Find any hull you want, preferably one with clear decks, and you can change out hardware to make it fly friendly. For instance replace the cleats with pop up cleats, the lights with pop up lights, etc. Worst case you can't do all of that and you buy a stripping bucket or wear your stripping basket in the boat. When it's really windy you'll end up doing that anyways. If you're going out by yourself, you don't need a poling platform. If you plan to bring people out and take turns poling each other around go for it, but not many people are 1) good at poling a skiff and 2) strong enough to do it for a long time. I would put a bow mount trolling motor on it or see if you can still find some troll and tabs. Bow trolling motors are excellent fly line slicers if you're not paying attention, but even with a bunch of newbies on the boat several times a week all season it only happens 2-3x. In many cases once you find the paths the fish are taking you can troll/poll up to it and anchor and cast to the pods of fish rolling by. If you need extra height, lash down a cooler and stand on top of it. If you go small with low freeboard look into self bailing hulls and the faster the better. A friend of mine has a gheenoe he runs around this area and has had close calls with it being flooded by wakes. It's not self bailing. The microskiff has a big cut out in the back to shed water and we've taken 2-3' greenwater waves over the bow and completely swamped it, in about 15 seconds it's empty. Same with for instance a kayak, a sit inside wouldn't be great when you get swamped whereas a sit on top will drain without any effort on your part. The last thing I would say is the flats make up a small percentage of the fly fishing opportunities in NE. Rocks, jetties, boulder fields, rips, coves, ledges, etc are all good fly fishing opportunities as well. Add in albies, bonito, bluefish, etc and you can have a blast fly fishing around this area and extend your season quite a bit. Limiting yourself to really sheltered water or really calm days (good bye most of spring and fall) will cut into your possibilities and enjoyment of the sport.
  7. Forgot they are making them now. I've heard good things about them as well.
  8. I built it, it's called the Bateau SK14. It's a little more involved to build than the LYS (I originally planned to build that) but is a fun little boat. If you want to see if in person PM me and we can arrange something. 3 friends of mine decided to build them after being out on it and at least 1 of them might be on the market soon if you're interested. Not sure if it's allowed (if so let me know and I'll take it down) but here's a video of it running when I launched it:
  9. The dark blue LYS in the pics above is a friend of mine who guides out of it in Dunedin FL. I've been on the boat several times and wouldn't want to have it in our waters. It does slap and beat even in a small amount of chop, which is pretty much always. The pros is it's super easy to build and cheap and is really stable, much more than you would think so. If you want his contact info PM me and I'm sure he'll be happy to bring you out on it in FL. Look up his brother Mark Vickers on youtube and they have a whole video series on building it and sea trialing it. I have 2 boats (3 if someone wants to buy my Sea Hunt), one is a 14' microskiff that can be beach launched and one is a Jones Brothers 23 Cape Fisherman. Beach launching isn't always an option and can be a big PITA even with a microskiff, but you can stay in the really sheltered waters and run around. Also remember even when the seas are dead flat, there's always some 35' sportfishing boat in just deep enough water leaving a 3' wake. Depending on your budget, the best boat IMHO for fly and light tackle is the Jones Brothers 1910LTE. It can run in big enough seas to get to the flats and you can pole it around or use a trolling motor, then bounce when you're ready to the next place. I've been down in the cape and Islands for a couple weeks now and they're all over the place running around in some pretty nasty rips and seas. My next options would be a Parker SE (bigger boat), Maycraft (same Sea Ox hull as the JB), older Sea Craft 20s, or Maritime Skiffs.
  10. Didn't look at the owners manual and just listened to what the dealer recommended. I also put on average around 200 hours a year on the engines and other than winterizing and checking the seals for braid and such, have only added oil and had the 300 hr services done. The 300hr service includes the water pump so at your hour rates, every 1.5 years sounds about right. Curious as to why you would do the plugs, thermostats, etc so often otherwise? You have problems?
  11. Have a Yamaha 150 on one boat, an E-Tec 200 on another boat, and a Tohatsu 8hp on the skiff. Yamaha you see more because their business model is to get in with the boat vendors and get sold on a new boat. Some boat manufacturers won't even sell the boat without a Yamaha, regardless of what engine you want (at least that was the case when I looked at Parkers). Once people re-power the Yamahas get less frequent and you see a bunch more E-Tecs, Suzukis, Hondas, and Mercuries. My experiences having both now, and having several of each before: Yamaha: quieter, more mechanics and service centers around, easier to find parts, requires more frequent preventative maintenance (every 100 hours, which could mean pulling or doing it on the water depending on how much you use your engine), the maint is more expensive (~$300 per 100hr service if you just change fluids, seals, etc and not do the extras around water pumps, valve jobs, etc), I've had more problems with both of my Yamaha 4 strokes before 1K hours than my E-Tecs but they've all been relatively small (starters, alternators, water/fuel pumps failing, etc). On my old one I did have to get some exhaust work done that was pretty expensive. The current one has a stutter from idle to speed and is a little jerky. I'm on my 3rd Yamaha 4 stroke with 2 over 2.5k hours and the current one at close to 800. I haven't decided what I'll repower the Yami 150 with yet when it starts giving problem as I plan to actually keep this hull. I had too many problems to list on my 2 stroke Yamaha and my dad still has his Yamaha 2 stroke and has had to do major work every other year. E-Tec: noisier (but quieter than a normal 2 stroke), more torque, lighter (can be a problem as it may throw off the balance of the boat), you have to buy and refill oil (cheap online, expensive at stores), can be winterized right from the controls, slower trolling speed and more fuel efficient when trolling, maint required every 300 hours (~$900 but includes water pump, seals, engine flash, and a bunch of other stuff), had only 1 problem with a linkage that expanded too much under high heat and was replaced under a service bulletin, still required a tow and pull, that was all for the 2 E-Tecs one at 900 hours and another at 2.8k. They've all been sold (or are for sale now) before I've had to do any expensive or major work. They also seemed to be less fussy about ethanol in the gas regardless of if I treated or not. All of mine were G1s, no experience with the G2s. I would say all added up, the extra costs of the Yamaha maint vs the one expensive E-Tec maint plus burning XD100, they're about even in running costs. The small engines I perform all the maint myself but the larger ones have been certified mechanic/dealer maintained. It does suck to lose storage space to an oil tank for the E-Tec, but I think the 25HP is still inside the cowling. I can't give a real estimate on how much more fuel efficient one is vs the other, as when I repowered from Yami to E-Tec I went from a 150 to a 200 and the ones I have now are very different hull designs. The other think the E-Tecs have, which I'm not sure why every other vendor doesn't have, is that if you pull the kill switch the engine will kill but can be restarted. If you skipper falls off the boat and is attached, the people in the boat can restart to come around and get them out of the water vs being stuck of having to hold extra switches. That said, the Tohatsus in the smaller sizes (like 25hp) are bulletproof little motors and take a beating and keep on going. I've had 2 of them on my dinghies and 1 on my current skiff, and I've never had a problem with them. No idea how many hours each has had though.
  12. Taken with a grain of salt, as I'm a charter captain (but don't operate in those areas), but boat charters are great for this. The captain can put you into the middle of a blitz where as long as you can get the fly into the water, even if next to the boat, there's a good chance of catching fish on every cast/every couple casts/etc. If that gets slow or boring you can go to the spinning/spincast setup and start jigging for bait or ground fish and get a lot of action and keep it interesting. Many trips with young kids you can put them on jigging for mackerel and pulling up a couple at a time jigging straight up and down keeps them happy.
  13. @BillHassan You or Sheila teach TH?
  14. Macs are around but spread out and thin. Best bet is go north to find them more easily. Pogies are everywhere.
  15. Sorry if I was implying you were doing so illegally, didn't mean to if so. The info on the rivers needing permits is just what I was told by the local shops and locals. I didn't try to verify it or truthfully do much research considering I didn't expect to get much fishing time with the kids. We expect to go back so if you have any links to where we can fish without a permit/guide on the rivers there please share. What I have heard is that if you book a salmon trip vs a trout trip, the price for the same section of the river will be significantly lower if a trout trip.