Dan C

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  1. Hey mate. Im based in Sydney. if you are local i might be able to help you with your technique. The comment on leader was more refering to the safety aspect, as a powerful cast particularly with leads more than 3oz or 80g can easily break 20lb. As for rods there are a few options locally, but most off the shelf options in this country are overpriced and underperforming. The majority of my rods are imports from the UK but these come with a hefty pricetag.
  2. From your name and the gear you've listed, it sounds like you are from Aus. Where abouts are you located. What weights are you casting? 20lb leader sounds really light. A general rule of thumb to ensure a margin of safety from cracking off during the cast would be 10lb of breaking strain for each ounce of lead. 90m is a very big cast with a bait in tow. For an easy distance increase, loose the 50lb braid. 20-30lb is more than enough to stop most species and will add meters to your cast. The other easy way to buy distance is to clip your bait to the sinker during the cast to improve the aerodynamics. There are heaps of clips available, just do some googling on pulley rigs and bait clips. That are you targeting and what baits are you using? Technique really is the key. Generally purchasing new rods and reels to try and buy distance is normally expensive and disappointing. Time spent learing how to load a rod properly and building the muscle memory is a much better investment and will see you casting further will any gear.
  3. When your looking at top tier reels like the Trini and Saltiga, i think you could go either route and be very happy. Customer support and parts availability is a pretty important consideration. The Salty has centrifugal brakes but i realise that you are likely going to mono mag it anyway. Looking at a few pics, it looks like a piece of cake to mag. You can also consider a static mag. I have had some good results static magging my fishing reels by machining up a mag carrier and then running multiple small magnets 4mmx4mm N50s. This gives you a means of adjustment so you can tune it to a finer degree. For instance big baits may need 3 mags, but if im heading out spinning tins ill pop one out and run 2. Not as easily adjustable as the mono, but it saves drilling holes in your reel or having knobby hanging out in the breeze, catching on sleeves and asking to be bumped. They are also a pain to guide the line if spinning reel up. You can also play with mag orientation to adjust braking strength further (i.e +++ or +-+). The Trini and salty share the same spool design where the spool shaft runs through the pinion gear so i dont see a big design advantage between the two. As for capacity, you can always back with braid, but i dont need to tell you that. You SA boys wrote the book on landing ludicrously big fish on casting tackle. My own BG20 runs 200 and something meters of 20lb braid backing and 170m topshot of .37mm mono. Just make sure to lay lighter braid backing in a really coarse pattern and nice and tight to prevent digging in.
  4. I personally dont think you have a great deal to worry about. If i were faced with the same conundrum, i would build the reduction guides to suit your spinning reel using a NGC layout. Then position the running guides bearing in mind that you may need an extra guide or two to prevent the line touching the blank under load when using conventional. A deflection test will be your friend here. Having the stripper guide placed further down the blank than a conventional set up will be largly negated by the added height of the stripper on all but the most parabolic blanks. I have a few rods that were built for spinning reels that i use with both spinning and conventionals and i can honestly say that i have not experienced any noticable loss in performance apart from the few added grams from the spinning reduction train. In fact, I cast in a few distance competitions here in Australia, including one event that casts a 5/8oz (18gr) plastic plug on 6lb mono. This plug being plastic is not very dense compared to lead and has a terrible ballistic coefficient. As such, any resistance from reel, line/guide placement and wind drag really kills distance. One of my favorite outfits for this event is an Abu 2500c and a Century Slingshot SS1505 built with a KW30 KL20 KL12 and KT8 running guides. My best distance of 129.7 yards has been achieved with this rod only just pipping my Tip Tornado Ultralight ST (126 yards) with the same reduction layout but with KT10 running guides. When building the TT ULST i played around with a few guide types and placements including using a more traditional KW25 stripper but noticed no performance increase by using the dedicated coventional set up over the duel purpose. The same can not be said for casting the plug with a spinning reel, where reduction guide position is critical in controling the ultra high velocity line coming off the reel. I cant say that you'll not get told that you using the "wrong rod" on the beach by the "experts", but these same experts used to think anything other than a COF build was wrong. I am often told that casting a conventional reel 18" from the butt of a surf rod is wrong, that is untill they see me cast. So take it as you will.
  5. The spigot is fine. On all the uk and japanese rods i own or have played with that spigot type, the gap is normally somwhere between 1/2" and 3/4". As for the butt length. I find a longer butt optimal. It may feel odd at first if your used to a short butt, but the longer lever puts mechanical advantage more in your favour which helps if casting heavier weights. It also helps a more effective push/pull. Id recomend to fish it for a while and see if it grows on you first before cutting it. Its alot harder to put a few inches back on. If you do want to cut it, wrap the place you want to cut in masking tape and mark the line you want to cut on that. Cut with a thin cut off wheel in a dremel or similar, rotating the blank as you cut. This will help to get a clean straight cut and reduce the risk of the blank splintering. Go slow as not generate too much heat even if you take a break or two. Too much heat will cause the resin to weaken. This is how ive done it and whats worked for me. Others may be able to chime in with other methods and they probably have cut many more rods than i have. Good luck
  6. AFAW Century Rod? AFAW and Century are competing UK rod Manufacturers (infact AFAW are built in China but are a UK Company) Which model rod is it? The UK rods marketed for pendulum casting are notorious for tightly toerances on thier spigots, also being parallel, they can be problematic. This can be more of an issue in higher temps Ive got 7 century's and an AFAW and when new most had some issues of spigots sticking, but usually they would go together ok, but as they warmed up during the day, they'd be stuck fast. Cooling down the spigot, rubber gloves and behind the knee grip has always worked to seperate any stuck spigots The recomended way to maintain them is to clean thoroughly (as it sounds like you have done) and apply a dry PTFE lube. The spigots can be carefully eased by applying PTFE lube and assembling/seperating over and over again until the desired fit is achieved. almost like lapping them together. The spigots shoud be regularly cleaned and relubed during this process, and thoroughly cleaned after to remove any graphite particles then again lubed. Another trick is to remove the butt cap, so your not fighting a pressure/vacuum. There was a good video posted on the Century rods facebook page a few days ago on this process. If you can find this, its well worth a look.
  7. From memory the 5500 is 63mm diameter and the 14K is 75mm
  8. Ive got one of those cheap plastic units for spooling up. Considering how cheap it was, its not bad and does the job. Infact I was so dubious of the quality that I bought two, and 3 years later the second one is still sitting unused in a draw. Not sure exactly how accurate they are though. I should do some tests to check. One thing with it though. use double wraps around the wheel and keep the line under tension. With light braid i do triple wraps to make sure it doesnt slip on the wheel.
  9. I think it is worth saying that a line counter is not the best way to measure casting distance. Sure you measure how much line has come off the reel, but the relationship between how much line comes off the spool during the cast and the distance is always changing and varies with conditions. For example, line type and diameter, tradjectory, cross winds, barometric pressure and humidity. The pressure and humidity effect how the line "hangs" in the air during and after the cast. Therefore even from cast to cast there can be enough variance to muddy the waters. As an example, I have recently taken to distance casting with the 18g plastic plug. Im using a modified abu 2500c with an aftermarket spool. The spool holds 145m of 0.25mm mono when humped right up. On some days i will come within a few meters of emtying the spool, even though the casts are landing in the 105-110m range. High humidity and a light cross wind seems to be the worst. Sometimes the line can take more than 5 seconds to come to rest on the ground after the cast. Ive experienced the same thing with the heavier mono and leads as well. If your looking to use it as a training aid only and are more focused on improvements rather than distances, a small piece of paper or plastic sheet (like a small piece coke bottle label) tucked under the line at the end of a cast will act as a good indicator. If the indicator flies off during a cast, then you've hit a good one, If it is still burried under a few wraps of line, its a bad one. Still not accurate as per above reasons, but a good guide.
  10. If your able to make the switch to 10 -15lb braid, the reduction in diameter will almost certainly improve your distance. Alternatively, a long cast reel like a shimano ultegra 5500 or similar may improve distance slightly, but i say "may" as a poor guide placement can negate any improvements offered by the larger diameter and long stroke spool. Have a look at the "casting Form" topic in the distance casting forums for some ideas on how to improve your technique.
  11. The short answer would be no. The spool lip design of the Shimmy is bit better than the daiwa, but the difference in distance between the two would be negligable all else being equal. What line are you running out of interest? IMO There are two better and cheaper ways to increase distance. Fish lighter braid, or improve your casting technique.
  12. Also due to the outer surface of the spool having a larger surface area, it means there is a reduced drop in line level for distance cast compared to a "standard" spool. As the line level reduces, the fiction caused by the spool lip increases, so reducing the reduction in line load= less friction=longer casting. That being said, i dont tend to think of there being a huge difference between my long cast reels and "standard" reels, Maybe a few percent.
  13. I have a somewhat different approach to developing your distace casting form. Even though casting further is your end result, it should be the last thing you focus on while trying to develop your skill set. I personally would try to not cast too far. Wind the power back and focus only on form. Distance is gained through form primarily, power only works when you have the muscle memory and dicipline to maintain your form while the power is stepped up. If you focus on trying to hit it harder your form will suffer. Learn all you can about casting fundamentals and theory, whatever technique you choose. There will be more than a few guys that can help to fill in the blanks, both on these forums and others. Take alot of video footage of you applying these fundamentals. Review and critique the footage, then apply these changes until they are ingrained. You will notice that this alone will see your distances improve massively. Then you can start to increase the power, but all the while adhereing to the first two steps.
  14. Looking good. Have distances improved since going off the ground? As Caster1990 rightly points out, The slower action parabolic rods are more suited to an overhead style cast. You will see in your cast that as you turn to face you target and apply the power the rod just loads and loads. To get the most from this style of cast that uses rotation through a bigger arc to generate power, you need a rod that will initially compress to the point where it will "lock" prior to the hit (push pull action). this will cause the power and speed generated by the hit to be more efficiently transfered to your lead. It will also help to get your lead to step wide (this is where the lead steps out to an angle greater than 90 degrees to the rod butt) before the hit. In this postion the energy tranfered to the lead will help accelerate it as it guides it around and onto your target. If the lead is 90degrees or less, the lead is forced to change direction which consumes energry, It can also cause the rod to bend into an acute angle (similar to high sticking) which is not great for rods. As for your cast, the next things i would look at are: Try keep your arms out and away from you, particularly your left/pull hand. Both at the start of the cast, until right before you pull in with it at the hit. As you begin to step, try to turn your head and focus on your imaginary target (which is about 45degrees above where you intend your cast to go) without moving your arms . While this may not really be posible, trying to do so will ensure that your arms lag behind your body, this cause your body to coil, storing alot of energy. Once your foot is planted and focused on your target, you can allow your body to uncoil into the hit position. This action alone will load the rod, then you just need to pull in your left when it is out and infront of your fore head This vid may help explain what I mean
  15. So sad to hear of Neils passing. His generosity in sharing information has benifited so many, all around the world. That is a remarkable lagacy to leave behind, and one that I am truely thankful for... RIP I'd love to see his vid. I have been trying to track down a copy for some time.