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Sngl2th

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Everything posted by Sngl2th

  1. The echo boost beach is a noodle that is completely useless for saltwater. I am not sure what rajeff was thinking when designing this rod. I talked to a guy at a well-known Maine shop about it and he was of the same opinion. Even a floppy trout spey rod may have more backbone.
  2. I use a big black fly with a bunch of long saddles, some flash and a kind of buford head but with congo hair. This seems to produce at times when nothing else will. I have also had success with tiny single feather flatwing flies with a palmered red hackle up front.
  3. Sorry, I've been in and out of covid. Yes, it's not a trailing hook. The eye of the hook is removed so that the shank goes into the tube. The resulting fly has the same hook placement as a conventional fly. The reason for this is to avoid using junction tubing (which can allow twist) and to allow tying on a tube of greater length without having the hook too far back. My concern is that spectra loop might weaken quickly/break from abrasion. Gut is probably too thick, as is mono braid like the kind used for finished loops. Maybe gel spun backing would be best.
  4. I've been enjoying tying/fishing tube flies for past year. I love not having the hooks rot on lovingly-tied flies, using just a few hooks, etc. However, I'm not that into the junction tubing and having to tie on short tubes. I've been messing around with this alternative scheme and wanted feedback on possible issues. Here is the layout: Instead of having the hook eye in the tubing, I cut off the eye and round off shank with a dremel, then tie a loop of 50# spectra onto the shank. I double the braid over at the bend to form a taper. This assembly then fits securely into the plastic tube. I would connect it to the leader with a handshake knot. (Sorry for out of focus photos) This is a crude first effort, and might be better to have braid loop either fully in tube or fully out of it. I am wondering whether the braid will hold up, and if there is a better material that would also be thin in diameter. I am not sure how well spectra tolerates loop to loop connections. If this works if would have a number of benefits, including allowing me to tie longer shank tube flies without the hook being too far back. Also, does anyone know of tubes with larger ID than the HMH large saltwater tubes? I am aware of pete gray's dual tube fly, which is another solution to some of the same issues, but I find it a bit unwieldy.
  5. They work. On a bright day a gotcha is a good, eye-catching shrimp imitation. I have had good luck on flats on cloudy days on a fly with flashy chartreuse chenille, purple marabou and neon green eyes. I don't think anything is too flashy (sometimes).
  6. I am in the same boat, roughly. Moved down here in September away from my beloved North Shore spots where I knew some of what was going on and when. I had a tough fall sort of stabbing in the dark, and have yet to have any patterns. It seems like fish were very concentrated in certain spots, and that some places that may have produced well in other years were deserted. PM me and I'll tell you what little I know.
  7. Have you guys considered Lasik? Probably cheaper at this point
  8. The clear heads were great and seemed to age better than other lines. I still use some clipped ones as tips for skagit and they are in much better shape than teeny lines of the same age, which are getting brittle. I am much more comfortable with aging lines with solid mono core.
  9. SA and airflo make intermediate skagit lines. I have a SA freightliner int and it casts beautifully.
  10. I have had nights when they worked on whatever standard size school fish were present, but I have yet to have a cow hit one. I had one night where a guy fishing a 9-in black sluggo beside me caught a 30-pound fish (among other big ones) and I threw on a roughly ten-inch sluggo-looking long hackle fly hoping to connect, but best I could manage were a couple contemptibly small fish.
  11. Ah I am an idiot and for some reason thought the BFD was in the mass forum. Had just woken up from a 7 hour cold-induced nap, forgive me.
  12. Oysters to me are Nature's most perfect creation, the supreme being.
  13. Thanks PF. I had actually picked up some salt away at the hardware store the other day. Figured it would be worth a shot, and that it will probably extend the life of backing (which I am bad about replacing).
  14. Thanks all. I read about fluid film on some old threads. Going to try that as well. I have seen conflicting advice about how much grease to pack into bearings. I would imagine that filling the bearing with grease would reduce the likelihood of grit getting in.
  15. Sitting home with a cold and decided to completely take apart an old Penn international IV that I had used some this last year and merely soaked with hand soap/lubed before putting away for the winter. The reel is very old, but in good shape--though there are some salt corrosion devils under the outgoing click devices (which are nonessential). I wanted to know a) what to do about very old grease in the main bearing, some of which has hardened. What do you guys do when trying to fully clean and regrease an older reel. Acetone? b) what do you use to break up deposits from corrosion? Trying to be a better reel owner :).
  16. Ya gotta post pics of these flies!!
  17. This is more or less what I figure. Some of the stuff tastes pretty good, too
  18. This might be bad, but if I am getting twist I put a thin coat of sally hansen's on the ends. I figure twist comes from the glue on the rod being worn down. If this is a bad idea for some reason let me know--
  19. This is some impressive bargain finding. I would have never known this was possible. I always just use congo hair. It's dirt cheap and very much the same as EP. Gator hair is similar but softer and you can pack it even more. I have not bothered experimenting with different yarns.
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