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About EricDice

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    Bucks PA or NWW NJ

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  1. It could be baitfish being scared out of the water by marauding predators (blues/ stripers, etc.). Sometimes it’s the predators feeding at the surface and catch some air after over pursuing their meal. I’ve never seen that myself though. Usually, blues and stripers will swirl and surface without breaching the water so much that you would call it jumping. Stripers live to tail smack baitfish at the surface. Could be that too. I would probably try topwater expecting bluefish. Eventually I would move on to a jig, bucktail, or metal spoon that I can get to the bottom in case there are bigger lazier stripers along the bottom waiting for free food to fall down from the frenzy!
  2. Oh wow. You rode his knob so hard you gave it road rash.
  3. Spot burn! Just kidding. Bellringer, you knew it was still there from the hollow sound it made under your tire. Ugh. Brand new reel. Sorry Jeff, that is bad luck.
  4. Heard numerous people say little piece of bloodworm and a big piece of night crawler (or a whole one) under a float catches weakfish. Maybe? If there are any inshore weakies left.
  5. A fish gaining leverage.... think about the plug itself is a crowbar. The treble hook is a nail in wood. Its easer to pry out a shorter & softer nail. (Stock hooks.) It is harder to pry out a longer nail made of hard steel, especially as you get the nail 3” out of the wood and the hammer is no longer gaining leverage against the side of the board. No more prying, just pulling. This is the reason why better split rings & beefier treble hooks are needed on keeper sized fish. This is also why many guys “canal rig” the belly hook of plastic plugs with a swivel - to lessen the leverage a fish can get on the hook.
  6. I rarely toss bait anymore, but that doesn’t mean it’s not fun on occasion! Let’s throw a curveball at the bait game. I am mainly thinking stripers, weakfish, & doormats (fluke/flounder), but feel free to use creative license. We all know the standard baits like bloodworms, clams, bunker, live or rigged eels, etc. But.... Maybe the supermarket was the only place open, or you just tried something on a whim and it worked. What nontraditional bait have you used or heard of that actually catches fish?
  7. Yep. +1
  8. Considered a Spheros SW 5000? That’s the reel I really want. Alan Hawk really grades Spheros SW very high. Well sealed for its price point. I have a very strict fishing budget (4young kids) and own the Nasci C5000 ($110 new). Super lightweight and smooth. I see it as the poor man’s Spheros. I have it on an 8’ rod and it’s perfect for jetties. Also sealed very well for a budget reel. If $60-130 extra doesn’t matter or you need more stopping power, get the Spheros 5000 or even the Saragosa 5000. Not sure how much heavier, but they may be a bit too heavy for 8’ rod.
  9. Its a combo of things: weight of the bobbin stiffness of the leader getting the tension/drag dialed in for each those two things. (Cannot use as much tension for a 20-25 lbs soft mono leader as with a stiff 50 lbs leader. ) when you do, the little tube stays against the leader and just enough braid is dispensed as it spins around. Too little tension and the bobbin slips down or even falls off. Too much tension and it can keep wrapping backwards over itself, or the bobbin pulls the leader bent over down into the tube. (That may not make sense if you haven’t done it with a bobbin at tension.) i have hand wrapped a PR knot, and hand wound the finishing wraps on an FG knot. I have also used a bank sinker to do both. That’s annoying because you don’t wanna hit yourself with a spinning 3 oz sinker in the face. Those things all work but the tube plus adjustable tension of a bobbin — even a crappy homemade version — are better for creating a knot that will bite instead of slip.
  10. I guess this is kinda pathetic, but I made my own bobbin. (Actually several.) I don’t like waiting for things in the mail, and no money for an expensive one either. I use it for knots, but I followed the design of a fly bobbin: upside down V with weights at the end of each leg and a tube where they meet. Seems to work very well for my needs. YMMV. I used part of a plastic pen pen for the tube. Sandpaper scraps smoothed out both ends inside & out. The legs/frame (upside down V) is from a large “binder clip.” (I included a pic of a small one as an example. First image below) Bend the whole thing open wider than the “thread bobbin.” bend each leg separately with pliers back in towards the center. Ideally, at the bottom of the two legs you see this: > < My wife & I had these little plastic spools or bobbins of thread from a sewing repair kit sitting around. I swiped one of those and stripped most of the thread off. Stuck a Texas rigging worm weight into the inner circle on each side and the sideways V on each leg goes into that spot. Bend the whole thing open more for less “drag” and bend in for more tension. You can add tape or rubber bands to tension it further if you need to, but I only used those to secure the tube to each side of the V.
  11. Exactly! There’s s pic buried somewhere on the Paulus site I found years ago that actually said to take two braided lines and tape them together temporarily. Make a loop from that joined section and tie a Bimini. That complicated mess was a braid to braid PR knot minus the bobbin. It was way too difficult though.
  12. @Sudsy @ThrowinPlugs Never tried this but I thought about using a version of this method for beefing up tiny FW Rapalas where the hook hangers may pull. This is a way offshore guys rig up poppers for Tuna. Put a beefy split ring on the front. Add an assist hook to the split. (Those things are not really pictured) Optionally, (also not pictured below) attach the assist hook to the bent/rusted belly swivel with a wire tie/twist tie/tape to hold the hook where you want it. Clip the lure to your main line by way of the beefy split ring where the assist hook is also attached. Now, no pressure is applied to the through wire at all if you hook a fish on the assist hook.
  13. I have a spinfisher v 6500. It really is heavy. I actually got mine used here planning to make it a primary surf reel, but it was too darn heavy for plugging. I like the one suggestion of a Triumph surf. Also, the Penn prevail and battalion lines probably offer 3-8 oz versions within your budget. I have my 6500 on a 9’6” mh moderate surf rod with eglass in it. It’s a 1-5 but could easily go heavier. Eglass doesn’t snap. I use it occasionally to chuck lead & bait, or slightly more often to throw eels (live/rigged) in inlets with drag pretty well screwed down. The glass rod absorbs shock. They’re heavier than standard plugging rods, but it’s a heavy reel.
  14. The drill video guy! I found him because of you. APP66 I think?? Watched every video of his & yours pertaining to knots. I was on a big Bimini twist kick for a while. I tested it dozens of times and the failure was always within the middle of the knot meaning the knot failed first. PP super slick 20 was failing when I hung 25lbs dumbbell from it. Same line could hold that weight no problem without the bimini. The key to the better knots is definitely using a bobbin. I have practiced the bimini using a bobbin that you (Aquaholic) posted before. I also now use your method for braid to braid PR knot. Most importantly for both Bimini and braid to braid PR, was that method of using a second bobbin with thinner braid to “overwrap” the one end of the knot. (It’s the single line end of the Bimini - opposite the half hitches.)
  15. Happy belated birthday!