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About EricDice

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    Bucks PA or NWW NJ

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  1. One other thing. If you fish in Nov - April (assuming colder mid Atlantic or above), grab cheap neoprene waders. I prefer stockingfoot so I can use them with the same Korkers wading boots as my breathables. Neoprene is cheaper and flexible which means it’s typically more durable. Use them as colder weather beaters and the added benefit that they’re warmer anyway.
  2. Agree completely. Bending over, stepping over a guard rail, kneeling down and especially squatting down. It’s putting pressure on the seams. Im wearing LL Bean breathable a size plus bigger than I need with albeit too much room but they’re very comfortable and I simply use a belt cinched pretty tight in the built in belt loops. I use another belt outside the wading jacket with my surf bag.
  3. @Bluetaildragger Riggies I use a siwash in front big enough to clip to. (Until this year with the new requirements.)Working on a few ideas for the current rules. For live eels, I use a ball bearing swivel to a split ring and a 7/0 or preferably larger circle hook. I clip to the swivel. I still crack their back a little to prevent eel balls, but the bb swivel helps a lot. (the split ring and hook below are ready to be retired.)
  4. Good luck @TimS with the future procedure and especially good luck with the “advice of SOL members” haha!
  5. Yeah, me either. My problem is paying off the credit card and convincing myself I’m just carry one rod onto the beach.
  6. Is that like an Aussie braid? If so, I’ve used that to double line instead of a Bimini and I had it slip under pressure of a bluefish. Not a gator blue just a hard fighting medium sized yellow eyed bastard.
  7. Sorry for hijacking the thread. As you were gents.
  8. Okay, @RockRonin I was right that @aqua-holic (aquaholicLee on the tube) posted this video here on SOL but it’s by App66 on the tube. I’ve watched about all his & Lee’s video for testing lines & knots, etc.
  9. Haha. Understand! I’ll look for Lee’s video on the tube
  10. ZAfisher has forgotten more about fishing than I know, but... I will pass along a tip that came from another guru on SOL named Aquaholic. For braid to braid PRs, do your normal bobbin wraps up and back then lock in with a half hitch. I think you can finish the knot with more hitches or a rizutto at this point but definitely get your bobbin out of there. (Unless you have a spare and most don’t.) Don’t tighten yet!! Before you ever pull on the main line - in this case either side of the knot - and cinch the knot down, put several yards of thin braid on that bobbin. At the end of the PR where you turn the wraps around and start coming back towards where you started, do a little mini PR type of thing “overwrapping” that end by an inch or two where that line enters the knot and back onto the knot. This is the spot where the PR (and same weakness can be prevented at the turnaround point with a braided line bimini) can become a tourniquet that cuts through itself before the rest of the knot ever has a chance to do its thing. You want to just lock in the wraps at that end so they don’t pull too tight as the finger trap effect is gonna work best at the middle of the PR. Do it that way and I would bet money that it’s as close to 100% of breaking strength as about any knot can be. But it’s definitely too long & bulky to be flying through the rod guides on a cast! Thanks for reading to the end the 5 people who made it!
  11. Just seemed appropriate
  12. Yes, that’s genius! Since you posted that before, I’ve been testing that too. I actually had multiple tests that broke at a spot in the lighter braid other than the knot. (Presumably a section of thinner line in 20 lbs PP Slick 8.) Although, I’m not currently using that way on a field ready reel because I’m going 20 to 50 lbs or 30 to 65 lbs. Whereas, I would have to go 30 to 65 back to 50 and that didn’t seem to make sense. I need to pick up something heavier than 65 lbs for this method. I think I did one reel though with old fashioned cheap used 4 strand 20 lbs to 65 lbs and then to a 150 - 200 yard section of 8 carrier braid in 30/40/50 or whatever I forget.
  13. I’ve noticed that too. Seems reasonable to me. You probably want to oil the felt and heavy grease that bottom carbon fiber disc. I think the carbon drag will catch at less tension and bear the brunt of the fight, but with heavy grease it should be fine. Just my humble opinion! in fact, I have a Nasci 4K (felt) and the 5k (cf). I might put a cf in the bottom & steal a felt off the top & rotate a little. Meh, I’m too lazy.
  14. By the way, here’s a picture of my SSV spool that my kid destroyed. I buffed & polished with a Dremel because it was really bad but I have several reels with much less damage that I simply got the burrs off and got them past the cotton test. Braid flies over the lip as long as there’s nothing sharp on it. On the retrieve, there’s no contact with the spool lip at all.
  15. I’m in this boat now except for braid to braid connections near the top of the spool. For braid as a “shock leader” (so to speak), I’m using an FG knot inspired by posts from @ZAFisher. The FG is much smaller and I’m getting really nice strength results (unscientific testing methods notwithstanding) by making it extra long (it cinches down to nothing anyway), starting with standard FG and then doing several sections of relix knot style double wraps of the tag end. (PR for the braid to braid anywhere that is well buried in the spool not to see the light of day except on a long run from a surf hooked shark or ray.) Having too little time to fish but still being fishing obsessed has made me neurotic about knots. Don’t be like me, kids!