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  1. Yes they did but the ones we bought were olive. And you're right about the Diamond logo.
  2. In the mid 70's, here in Québec, if yu needed chest waders, you bought Miner boot foot rubber waders. Miner was a Québec manufacturer of rubber boots, raincoats, rain pants etc. for commercial fishermen. All very waterproof but for comfort, it was something else. So I bought Miner waders when I started fishing for Atlantic salmon. No felt soles so you had to scrape away the deep threads of the rubber soles and glue on felt soles. Very heavy and of course non breathable so if you stood in ankle deep water at the bottom of a gorge on the York river and it was 85°F, we'll it was 95° if not more in your waders! But they did the job and we had fun!
  3. Baldwin: I started tying these mini Muddler a few weeks ago because a friend of mine was tying a mini....Mickey Finn Muddler with which, he says, he and a couple of his friends have had a lot of success with for brookies on lakes up north. So, a Mickey Finn and why not, a Royal Coachman à la mini Muddler.
  4. Merci Gilbey.
  5. The colours came out wrong due to the lighting. So her goes again.
  6. Here's my ""must-have" pattern, a 2 3/4" sand eel, on which I've caught more than 50% of the stripers I've caught so far (all in the Baie-des-Chaleurs) in my five years of striper fishing (I have no doubt a lot of catching up to do compared to most of you guys). It was originally based on Capt. Bill Murphy's EZ Sand Eel pattern just replacing the EZ Body by Softex coatings. But I've tweaked it quite a bit since then. And, yes, I do fish it a lot.
  7. Nice ties. Gilbey: I'm probably as old school as you are. I recently revisited three old wet flies on which were caught countless brook trout (more often called "speckled trout" up here) in Laurentian lakes ( including by me when I was learning flyfishing in the early 60's), ie Parmachene Belle, Dark Montreal and Silver Doctor and decided to convert them into Mini-Muddler (so maybe not as old school as rhat).
  8. Happy for you...... said with a "little bit" of envy as I watch ice floating down the Saint-Lawrence River.
  9. Hilltop if that is feeble, I'd like to see your best!
  10. Thank you.
  11. Very nice indeed Sidelock. If I may ask, is it tied with Jonny King's V-Tie technique and what material for the body?
  12. I've been making quite a few of Slip n Slide's interesting poppers and floating squid flies (basically the same construction as discussed recently in the June 16, 2018 "Striped Bass Squid Flies" thread on this Forum) and my learning curve in making those was not without hiccups. So for those who will be making these for the first time, I discussed my experience on that above thread, hoping that it could help somewhat. Here's some of those poppers I finally came up with.
  13. I've been tying quite a few of Slip n Slide's floating squid flies and poppers (basically same construction, see "Striper Topwater Flies" January 25, on this Forum) and, I thought of sharing a few problems I ran into because I was not doing something right initially. -Cutting the face of the foam cylinder Initially, I used a single-edged straight razor blade to cut the bottom 2/3 of the face at the required 45° angle, just by holding the cylinder down on the table firmly, placing the blade on the foam and cutting down while trying to keep the blade vertical. Tough to do and the result was seldom completely satisfactory. So I tried a few things and finally came up with something that gives me satisfaction: I use a very sharp Rapala filleting knife (the short one) and a fairly thick (1/8") plexiglas square (that my wife uses for quilting) and I put the square flat on the cylinder with one of the edges placed exactly on the line where I want to cut and use that edge to guide the knife and as the edge is thick the blade remains in contact with it throughout the cut and it is thus easy to keep it vertical. -Positioning the cylinder on the hook shank Initially, after tying in the tail, I just built up a good thread base on the shank, cut a centered V at the rear base of the cylinder to accommodate the bump at the tie-in point of the tail and then positioned the cylinder on the glued thread base and then tied it down with the thread.. and often ended up with a cylinder a little off center in relation to the shank or slightly turned so that the face was not square and... of course solidly glued to the hook. To avoid this: after cutting the face, cut a shallow V groove from center front to center rear on the bottom of the cylinder, enlarge the V at the rear to accommodate the bump and this groove ensures that the cylinder is always centered on the shank (in addition to making a stronger bond to the hook) . But you still have to make sure that the face remains square to the shank. So it is important to check often when making the thread wraps. Hope this will shorten the learning curve for those who try making these patterns for the first time. And, why not, a few of those I made.
  14. From north of the border, wishes for a successful surgery and an easy and prompt recovery.
  15. Very nice and super colours.