Captain Lew

No, he just look's.

Looking for fish!!

Got my second shot of Moderna yesterday, no side affects today at all. I take vitamin D also. One guy here said hair started growing on his back, maybe some hair will start growing on my bald head.

It's not always red right, if your heading north on the ICW it's Green right after you come off the inlet. Anyone that can't remember Port left and Starboard right shouldn't be on the water. If you are crossing paths with another vessel and it's Port (red) is facing you they have the right of way, if Starboard (green) is facing you, you have the right of way (this does not apply if it's a large commercial vessel with limited maneuverability).

Wife and I watched a few nights ago.

Yep, when you glue it's like having a thousand screws in one sheet.

Shag, Just got back from bidding 3 big Drywall Jobs. It's good that you have some Easy Sand, I like ProForm better myself, but know big deal. Easy Sand # on the bag is working time, not complete set time. ProForm # on the bag is complete set time. Your may or may not need backing on this, it's not that big of a gap. Mix the pre-fill heavy and you shouldn't need backing for the pre-coat. Here is a video of how to "flat tape" up against a finished product (don't forget to blue tape you molding). Note: This is not my video or anyone that works for me, but the guy gets the job done.

If you don't put tape on it, it will crack in a short bit of time, guaranteed!!

Just checked in on your post. Real fast reply because I have to go look at a few drywall jobs for my son. You don't have to remove that molding to fix that, just tape it out with some blue painters tape. That small area can be fixed without doing anything to the sheet rock by what we call "flat taping". Got to go now, I'll try to get back to you later.

1. Yes all the other new pops happen if the whole sheet is coming down and now it's being pushed back up. (If you nail sheetrock it should always be glued also). The only time we don't glue is with metal stubs. 2. I would put a screw on both sides of the pop just to be sure. 3. As far as the chewed up paper (this is why we don't remove old nails), scrape off any lose paper with your drywall knife, (lose paper will bubble). they don't look to bad from the picture. It won't hurt to put a screw in the old holes. 4. Don't use any quick set joint compound, it can be a pain for someone that doesn't normally finish drywall. Get yourself a small bucket of USG Joint Compound (green lid) and put on 3 coats, letting each coat dry first before the next. When you do the coats wipe the mud clean so it only fills the hole. We don't sand much because this is what we do. If you think you have to sand that's ok, but you are better off with a damp sponge in a occupied home so there will be no dust, a damp sponge will work just like sand paper. Hope this info helps. Note: Any "nail pops" we fix are not from our jobs, but from jobs that someone else did.

This is what we us, but any good construction adhesive will work (like Liquid Nails).

I have been doing Drywall for 47 years, my son for 31 years. Have employed up to 30 Rocker's and Finisher's. Here is a job we just finished and one almost finished.

Never use Dura Bond if your not use to finishing drywall, Dura Bond is different then Easy Sand Joint Compound, it hardens like concrete and will even get hard under water. No the old nail doesn't have to be removed.....screw on each side of the pop. Like I said, the pop is from the rock pulling away from the stud or joist, nail pops have nothing to do with the nail poping or moving. When they did the rock they counter sunk the nails to much and there wasn't enough rock left behind the nail to hold the rock, if you push on the rock you will see it move. All my jobs we glue and screw the rock, never get a nail pop.