Patrick Cambria

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About Patrick Cambria

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  1. So I upgraded my 2014 Mak 2 star with the new 100% 304 stainless steel model. I posted my other one online and sold it the next day to someone from Long Island. The new one differences: --Upper grate slots (and grates) --Slide out grease tray replaces hanging bucket. --Lower cabinet with door. --Better casters --k style meat probes and upgraded firmware (much higher temps and reliability) --Roaming grill thermistor. (Old one was fixed) --Improved tool hanger -- Wifi module The decal on the door will be coming off. You can get all this with the all stainless steel lower half (pellet hopper, cold smoke/warming box, cabinet etc) but when you splurge for the all stainless model they include the 3 upper racks, 3 probes, and a cover etc. My old 2 star already been upgraded with the new flame zone and igniter.
  2. I had this decal in my garage for at least 5 years. Finally found a place to stick it.
  3. Thanks, for clarity I have strong background in electronics engineering and I'm also an industrial maintenance mechanic by trade so I work with 480 3 phase all the time. I'm just not not an electrician so don't know codes and practices. I wouldn't tackle electrical if I had any doubt in the safety of what I was doing.
  4. I'm pretty sure you can't use just joist hangers on new construction but this was a repair on an existing deck. See my other post. Here are some additional photos from Simpson strong tie of how to use these brackets.
  5. My joists were in fact pulling out if the hangers so I added those brackets. Typically they have a matching bracket that ties to the joist on the other side but I used simpson strong tie 3x3 backing plates and nuts on the other side.. Look how long the bolts are that I used. They barely reach through I'm guessing six stacked 2× PS I'm pretty sure these brackets are now required in New construction but I could be wrong. The days of just joist hangers doesn't meet code any more. The deck was there before I bought the house but I had all the azek decking and composite railings installed after my house was lifted. Material used. Brackets installed. Before repair Before tightening brackets
  6. Yeah it's all finished. I'm not sure why I was over complicating the switch in my head when as you pointed out I just needed one extra conductor. At some point I might put hard wired lights under the deck but for now I'm just going with string lights that plug in. Vacuum is just for demonstration. Also future upgrades is why I put the 90 there with the outlet sideways. I can now put another 90 on the other side and run more conduit to install light fixtures etc. 20200524_172741.mp4
  7. ZD on all 4 of them.
  8. They do had pvc offsets or i guess kick but then I'd have to install 2 coupling and I thought that was too ugly. I'll try with a heat gun. Here is the top box just for completion. Pretty straight forward.
  9. I don't know what a kick is. I do have straps / conduit clamps available. Here is the wiring feel free to correct anything i did bad. The red taped wire is the switched and will be the hot of the upper box outlet.
  10. Is this ok as is? (First photo) It's 38" from the bottom of the upper box to the top of the lower box. Or do I need to install offsets and clam to wall? Upper box is secured with hardy backer screws and lower is secured with tap on screws. I went with PVC boxes as suggested. All unused plugs and fitting are siliconed. Ps incase anyone wants to know why I'm putting the upper outlet and making it switchable is because I'm putting plug in string lights and they don't have an on/off. The lower outlet is for my pellet grill that used to be on my deck above.
  11. Mine don't seem to be recalled but now it doesn't make me feel any safer when I'm under my truck. I have no complaints with my aluminum 3 ton jack.
  12. I have azek on my house decks but I do have a PT lumber pool deck that I painted with behr deck over when it was new. It lasted 2 years before peeling and just a week ago I pressure washed the surface and painted it again with the same left over deck over (i had more than 1/2 of 5 gallon bucket left.) The label is very clear on the fact that the wood must be extremely dry for several days before applying. Otherwise you trap in moisture and hence pre mature rot. I ignored this warning and repainted right after pressure washing.
  13. I feel the pain.. behind my microwave wall is a hallway. I had no choice but to go up into the attic. Luckily I had an unused vent through my roof from when I replaced my hot water and heat over to a combination unit. Ps I have crown that hides the duct above the cabinet.
  14. Thanks, this is the most helpful. 1. For extra clarity i planned to put conduit through the wall that will be screwed directly into the back of the outlet box where it will switch to thhn. Is this no good? 2. I plan to mark the switched wire with tape as I didnt want to buy a 4th color. Is this ok? 3. The boxes will be grounded via pig tails but now I wish I bought pvc. I already too the shrink wrap off them so I'm not returning them. 4. I have in use covers not sure the proper name but they can close when something is plugged in. 5. The outlets are TRWR I'm not positive I have the right switch. Thanks again.
  15. 1. The lower outlet isn't going to be switched. 2. The switched outlet is located by the feed so I have to pass it and come back with at least the hot. 3. I don't want 2 second outlet to load the first outlet. I purposely bought 2 gfci outlets to avoid this. Edit: for clarity im using PVC so I'm running a ground wire. I'm not sure if you were counting that when you said 3.