Frugal Fisherman

BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Frugal Fisherman

  • Rank
    Elite Member


  • About Me:
    I'm a recreational fisherman on a tight budget.

Profile Fields

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

2,581 profile views
  1. Go for the spaghetti with hot dogs
  2. There are no Crowns in Trenton. In fact, the one furthest south is that new one on 36.... South Plainfield definitely is "the hood." Recently a place opened up in the hood of Middlesex called "New York Chicken and Grill" that is owned by the same people as Crown. The Gyros are pretty good....
  3. Pupil to pupil... it's usually around 64mm for an adult.... but 55 to 75mm is pretty normal...if one has a "lazy eye" it's whole different ballgame. There will be an extra part of the script called "prism".... demand the doctor gives u the "pd" when you go for an exam.
  4. Through one's eyeglasses
  5. No problem. I think it's something eyeglass wearers should know. IMO a lot about the optical prices is outrageous. Generally, progressives, bifocals, highly curved, oversized, and polarized lenses are the only ones that need to be cut/ground. The rest can be from "stock lenses" (pre cut), which cost about $0.50 per lens, yeah 50 cents. Even some photochromatic lenses are that cheap. Regular sunglasses with a script but without an add power are just dyed clear lenses. The most expensive lenses are polycarbonate, "transitions," (they change better than regular photochomatic) which run around $35 per lens. Frames are a whole different story. Basic frames can be as cheap as $5 but name brands can go as high as $1500. When I was in the optical field of work (thanks covid) I would tell friends to buy their own frames - even dollar store- and I'll pop some lenses into them. It takes about 20 minutes for non-add scripts. Frameless lenses need to be drilled and take much more effort/ time. Oh and there's a number in scripts that most doctors don't like to give to patients because with that number you can get glasses anywhere. It's the "P.D." pupilary distance -- the distance between one's pupils. Usually, it's around 64mm. Easy to figure out with help from someone. Just keep a fixed stare straight ahead and with a sharpie mark where the pupils are. Measure the distance between the dots in millimeters then use rubbing alcohol to remove the dots. If you were closer to my area, I would recommend some shops, but we didn't deal much with places outside of NJ & The 5 boroughs... I know it's long winded but I'm bored with no transportation
  6. I guess he's on the Delaware River....senkos work. I would think wacky-rigged would be better for linesiders than Texas rigged
  7. These are some of the personal use glasses I've made. Notice the semi-wraps (3rd down from the top). They were at the edge of what we would try to put into curved frames. I have a negative script -2.75 and -2.00....
  8. I assume you have a negative script. That wouldn't work for someone with a positive script.... how the scripts work: a positive script like the one posted, "+3.75," is for people who have issues seeing close objects. The add power, "+2.50" adds more magnification for even closer things. That'll bring the total script in the bifocal/ bottom of the progressive to +6.25. Negative is for trouble with distance vision. So, say one has a script for bifocals/progressives like -2.50 cyl with a +2.50 add, looking into the progressive/bifocal is equivalent to just taking off one's glasses *the cylinder is for astigmatism; it stretches things vertically or horizontally deepening on the degrees. A 0.25 is almost nothing and one can get contact lenses but would need "cheaters," aka reading glasses for close vision
  9. Yep that's a positive script. It changes how lenses are cut. U might be able to get wraps. That script can definitely get cut into high curved lens
  10. I've gotten a -5.00 script into some wrap- arounds. Edges of the lenses were like a half inch thick lol...I used to work in the industry.
  11. Have u tried the anal vent?
  12. Shimano antares
  13. I think the tint color does make a difference and matching the general color with the water really helps see below the surface ie. Brown lenses with tea stained water. I've had blue, green, grey and brown. "Grey 3" probably is the most versatile....Depending on your script, wrap-around (highly curved lenses) can be next to impossible to look normal let alone fit into the frame. Also, I would go with bifocals as they're easier to get correct than progressives... if you have a negative script, (like a -3.25 with a 2 add) I would go with a flatter frame and get side shields to block out ambient light. Cutting scripts into lenses is pretty interesting. It's all about "base curves." A truly flat lens on the front is a 0 base curve and some wrap- around are 8 base. 8 base is really curved but it's hard to cut negative scripts into them - they're meant for positive scripts and the more positive the script the smaller the lens but way thicker. TL:DR Grey bifocals probably your best bet. Get flatter frames and use blinders. There's no way I'd pay over 200 just to get lenses put into frames
  14. Are we going to gloss- over someone losing a shotgun?
  15. Normal. it doesn't take monster set-up to catch bass around that size... bluefish of the same size will test tackle. Think about it, freshwater fishermen can pull in fish around 10lbs + with that type set-up That's mighty stout for white perch. For them i go with 4.5, 5 ft with 6lb test mono