Don B

BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


1 Follower

About Don B

  • Rank
    Elite Member


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Long Distance Casting
  • What I do for a living:

Recent Profile Visitors

1,119 profile views
  1. You will find Squidder Topless Frames and spools available at Tiburon Engineering Inc
  2. Just FYI Those distances are in meters, not yards. 300 yards = 274.32 meters
  3. Do a google search on Sea Striker 28-2AL Aluminum Stake Sand Spike You should find a picture of a 2 piece aluminum and PVC sand spike. It is the basis for something better. The flange at the top of the PVC is too big. It needs to be only big enough to prevent the inside edge of the PVC from digging into the lower grip or heat shrink/cork on the handle. The nut that is visible at the top of the aluminum angle is close to the top of the aluminum angle. It should be more like 5" from the top of the aluminum and 3" from the bottom of the PVC. The bolt that holds the PVC to the aluminum should go completely through the PVC tube and extend by about 1 1/2". Add a stainless steel washer and butterfly nut to the bolt. In this manner, the assembled unit will be sturdier and if you loosen the butterfly nut you can then swing the PVC down by 180 degrees to the transport or storage position. Also, the PVC can be set at 90 degrees to a position that enables the use of a rubber mallet to drive in the spike. If the terrain is still stubborn, replace the aluminum with steel. One additional item, the pivot bolt can be used to to support the rods handle or you can add a transverse bolt at a higher position. In either case, a sleeve should be added inside the PVC tube to cover any exposed bolt threads (protect the handle's butt). And, that's one of the types of sand spikes used in Hawaii. Almost every shop will have a few. I am not sure of any patent rights.
  4. Speaking of waves. East of Wailuku is Jaws. I never had time to visit, nor do I surf, but it must be great for those into the sport.
  5. Sounds like you had a horrible experience. My trips were between 9:00 AM and 4:00 PM. As I understand it, almost anything that hampers oxygen intake and the body's ability to use the oxygen can cause hypoxia. High altitude, cold, and general health (lungs, circulatory system, etc.). Just FYI: FAA regulations require supplemental oxygen when flying above 12,500 feet for more than 30 minutes.
  6. The weather has been slightly extreme the last few days. About 3 days ago, ocean swells of 50 feet and waves of 65 feet were reported at Oahu's North Shore. Last night there was a state wide flood warning. Apparently Maui was hit the worst. I am not sure as to the impact.
  7. " Hmm, I plan on driving to Haleakala’s for the sunrise one day, from what I’ve read there is a parking lot near the summit and the roads are well marked and maintained. " The visitor observation station road was clear. There was snow along the sides of the road at that point. It has been a long time, I believe there was a split in the road prior to the visitor center. At that time, the visitor center consisted of a building with several large plate glass windows and a table with a map. It made have been upgraded since then. In July you should be fine. The times I was in Maui (for work) were January through April. Your only concern will hopefully be bicycle riders coming down the mountain.
  8. I ship my rods by FedEx or UPS when traveling to the mainland. There have not been any problems with the hotels holding the rods until I arrive. As a precaution, I usually bring along one guide of each size. The tubes used were 8' 3" x 4". Now you must keep the length under 8 feet. When making an online shipping document, request a return document. Then all you have to do is to pack your rods and present your shipping or return label at FedEx/UPS.
  9. You have not experienced a trip to Science City which is atop Mount Haleakala. You have to drive on ice and snow along the side of the extinct volcano. My destination was just prior Science City. The turn off was a slope of dirt and ice that became loose rock encased in ice. There are tours that will take you part way to Science City and drop you off. You then ride a bicycle to the base of the mountain with no pedaling required.
  10. CP helps/prevents/stops nylon from becoming translucent after epoxy is applied. Most (perhaps all) CP is water based and you will need to let it fully dry before application of epoxy The colors will pop more than NCP thread. As I understand it, the CP prevents the epoxy from fully penetrating the thread fibers. Also, the epoxy may never fully reach the blank. Using nylon without CP requires some prerequisite knowledge. It seems everyone acquires it on their own. " Ultimately, for a newby like me, I assume it makes the most sense to just go with NCP thread, there doesn't seem to be any downside and I don't have the experience to predict the color change in regular nylon. " The negatives are that the colors are not a vibrant and the thread is weaker. So, it depends on your desired appearance and the subjected conditions of the rod. Since I build my rods for performance, the stripper guide and the next one up have a double over wrap of C nylon, then the next two are a single wrap of C nylon, and the running guides are A nylon. Epoxy is kept to a minimum as long as it fully saturates the thread. Black NCP takes on a blue haze when in bright sunlight. This is due to the chemicals added to make nylon thread into NCP thread. The haze does not happen with black nylon thread. I have a rod sitting in the corner that I built about 1981. Gudebrod water based varnish was used on the wraps and it still looks very nice today. Why do I bring that up? People are developing allergies to epoxy. So, good ventilation and gloves when working with epoxy are a essential. I have been looking at some of the water based products of yesterday.
  11. " What are the differences between regular nylon thread and colorfast nylon thread? " I would like to fully answer the question, however it would take several pages. First, nylon is purchased by a manufacturer in some type of bulk format. It is then reformatted to have the desired format for rod wrapping thread. Weight, plies, and twists/inch. After that the thread is spooled onto dye spools and goes into large vats where the thread is processed for the desired color. It is important that the rod wrapping thread does not become exposed to machinery used for manufacturing sewing thread. At this point the thread is transferred to the desired spool sizes required by the final customer. Should a thread be needed that does not require color preserver, IOW No Color Preserver required, the thread will go through a bath that adds chemicals. These chemicals will cause the thread to expand and become slightly weaker. Gudedrod retains the trademark NCP (for No Color Preserver required or needed). Under the general reference of NCP are Stay True, NOCP, Color Fast, ColorLok, and Perma Color. We have lost sight of thread ratings. EG D has a government rating of a breaking strain of about 10 pounds. For D NCP to retain its' breaking strain, it must be larger in diameter. Nylon become translucent when epoxy is applied. The color of the rod or under wrap will show through the nylon. Lamiglas took advantage of this property by using garnet nylon on a brown rod. The outcome was fantastic deep red to which they added a narrow gold trim. It is important that the epoxy fully saturates the thread to prevent what could look like blotches. Work fast, use low build, use heat if necessary. If using under wraps, consider a metallic under wrap. Nylon NCP thread is dull in comparison to nylon thread and is not transparent. If it is kept tightly packed when wrapping and then burnished, there should be no gaps visible between the threads. "What are the different features and uses of these two thread types and when/why choose one over the other?" If you have a knowledge of how colors blend when the over wrap is translucent, you can achieve great results that can pop. NCP gets the job done with no surprises. Hope this helps, Don
  12. I use a socket and my drill press to remove an IAR bearing. If it's a little chilly, it may (or may not) be helpful to submerge the side plate in hot water to loosen the fit. If you can remove the IAR bearing, the mfr number should be stamped on the bearings edge. Jerry Foran will probably have a replacement IAR bearing.
  13. Some clarification of the New Guide Concept (NGC) may be helpful. As I understand it NGC accomplishes two things, 1. Reducing the size of the coils coming off the spool as soon as possible. It is usually accomplished with two or three guides. This subjects the line to less friction as it passes through the remaining guides. Hence, greater casting distance. These guides are referred to as the Reduction Train. 2. Less weight in the tip area of the rod by using more smaller (light weight) guides. Benefit, better responsiveness of the tip resulting in more energy transferred to the lure and less overshoot of the tip at the end of the cast (less oscillation of the tip). Less tip oscillation equals less line drag. Again greater casting distance.These guides are referred to as the Running guides and are all the same size. The largest guide is the stripper guide. The last guide in the reduction train is also the first running guide. It is the Choke guide. Corrections welcomed. Don
  14. Someone probably has autoclave mixed up with vacuum bagging. The vacuum process is used for complex shapes and infuses wet epoxy into the carbon fiber. A youtube search on vacuum bagging carbon fiber will bring up a basic intro to the vacuum bagging process.
  15. Well, keeping it simple should be the goal for the first encounter. The size is usually the outside diameter of the ring. Perhaps there is an exception for wire guides.(?) The first guide shown is a little over 2" in outside diameter. We will call it 2 1/8". If the guide has a frame around the ring, the frame will not be included in the outside diameter. The guide size will be 2.125 inches times 25.4mm per inch = 53.975mm. The closest ring size will be 50mm. The 50mm guide has a wire running from one guide foot to the bottom of the ring and to the other guide foot. This guide with the wire has the nomenclature XBS (B for braced) Some of your guides do not have the brace and are therefore XS guides " when replacing the guides make the guide wraps much shorter than the one on there now. " It's an older style that adds weight the hinders performance. While it would be nice to maintained the historic value of the rod, the performance could be enhanced by changing to a different type of guide. Long distance casters prefer the Pacific Bay Minima Guides Model T. XT4XG40 is an example. The 40 is the guide size and it is my understanding that the 4 is double swaged. In this series there is no 50 size ring. A 50 in the Minima TV series should work fine. XTV4XG50.