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Mojo Gills

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  • About Me:
    Let the fish do all the talking, cuz I'm all about the catchin' ...
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    ... And if I ain't catchin' them, then I'm a drinkin' them (see user photo) .
  • What I do for a living:
    I drink cuz I'm as good a fisher, as Kaitlyn Jenner is a woman !

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Somewear, Togos Island .

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  1. The 109's feature allowing line to be "backed up" is the reason why I wanted a 109...The same reason I got my hands on a Mag 10 like the ones in the pics you included. My assumption is that, with the anti-reverse off, you reel the handle backwards to "back up" and "feed" line to the fish taking the hook. Do you actually work the handle backwards or just let the fish take some line out ? Also, after "feeding" line out, do you flick the anti-reverse lever on and set the hook or just with your thumb on the spool ? Looking into that option, I found that some side plates up for sale with the clicker assembly, sellers were asking just a little bit more than the total cost for just the clicker button and tongue. So, one could pick up a side plate with the clicker and also have a spare side plate to hold onto, maybe a different color if one wished to mix things up. In my case, the seller agreed on a return and full refund and I may end up with another 109 sooner or later. Thanks to everyone for their replies !
  2. @DerrickT. Yup, a short search uncovered some and that may be the direction I take... @Buckmark22. I came across at least one thread covering that procedure. However, I recall the thread mentioned older 109s that had some brass components making the job easier than the newer 109s with a chrome button. Then, I wonder if the chrome button is just chromed brass and so on. I'm probably not 100% accurate on this account. With that said, I can just barely cast the conventional reels without creating bird-nests that could be rented out to migrating birds...I would make quite a fortune, so I'm not going to take on that repair. Fortunately for me, the seller has offered to refund my purchase and I'll be free to search for another 109. THANKS to everyone who has replied.
  3. I'm no expert myself, but I agree and now am convinced that corrosion is the culprit. I think it is stuck in the "off", disengaged position and probably can't be salvaged. So I may be looking at a side plate replacement. Not handy enough to do the parts replacement. Still have have a Mag 10 and should be happy with it...
  4. Penn 109 clicker question... I've always been intrigued with the "knuckle-buster" and finally bought red one with the dual green handles. The price seemed right for it exterior appearance and low shipping cost kept the purchase to under $20. I've been successful with the 209, but I have come across an issue with the 109 that may or may not be a problem. The clicker button(36-109) is seized and will not budge up or down, an inside look shows the clicker tongue(35-155) in a position that I can not determine to be the "on" or "off" position, and there is no loud click in either direction. I don't know if the button is stuck in the "off" position, or if it is stuck in the "on" position and clicker is just not working. First question, is the clicker button(36-109) on the Penn 109 always "on"...is it supposed to have an "on or off" capability ? The interior of the left-hand side plate shows a small cutout just above the clicker housing leading me to believe that the cutout is there to allow the clicker button(36-109) to lift up and fill the cutout space and thereby the tongue(35-155) to be moved up and disengage from the spool clicker gear. However, from the outside, the clicker button appears to be in an upward "off" position. Please refer to the included pics. Second question, for proper operation, does the reel need to be reassembled with the clicker(36-109) the "off", disengaged position ? Last question, if the clicker is stuck in the "on" position and there is no clicking or detention, is this being caused by a misalignment of clicker components and thereby also causing an issue with side to side play with the spool ? I suspect the stuck clicker is causing an interference that is not allowing the spool assembly to seat properly. I believe the problem is that the clicker tongue(35-155), in the stuck downward position, is resting against the spool's clicker "gear" and not over the top of spool's clicker "gear". In this case, the clicker tongue(35-155) is not meshing with the spool clicker "gear". So, no clicking function and the misalignment is also causing the side to side play in the spool even when the spool tension screw is tightened in. So far just a clean up with 3-in-1 oil and toothbrush. Hopefully, the solution can avoid a side-plate replacement or more extensive repair. I appreciate anyone's thoughts and or advice to fix this clicker issue, THANKS !
  5. Unless this post is edited/flagged by moderators for "Spot Burn" infractions, I have the following to offer that I believe may be exceptions to the "Spot Burn" policy ... The public fishing piers in the SF Bay Area may be places to consider, I know that one of the Bay area public fishing piers is open 24 hrs, try this link .xxxxxxxx.
  6. Thanks again jondtuttle ! I found out the answer myself thanks to your tutorial for the Penn 704Z : http://www.stripersonline.com/surftalk/topic/529974-penn-704z-service-tutorial/?hl=%20704z%20%20service%20%20tutorial After studying the above tutorial, I was able to do maintenance on what is actually a Shakespeare Sea Wonder 2091 pretty easily . I would thing that the 2091 is very similar to the 2081 and 2062 and the above tutorial will help anyone to disassemble those Shakespeare also .
  7. Hello again johndtuttle, Would you extend this piece of wisdom, Penn 704Z and it's tutorial, to someone attempting to do some maintenance on a Shakespeare Sea Wonder 2081? I'm finding it very difficult to track down a reel schematic for this particular model, so I was hoping you could suggest any other Shakespeare model reels with similar parts and construction that I can use for reference to do the required maintenance . It's been stored in the garage attic for too long and needs to been taken apart and rebuilt, it's caked with with very heavy grease that seems to be "gunking" down the operation of the reel. Everything feels solid and smooth, just "gunked" up "heavy" . Looking forward to using it soon, thanks in advance !
  8. It all makes sense to me now, this along with all the wisdom in earlier posts is highly appreciated ! Thanks, johndtuttle . As a SO newbie, you've busted my cherry...hope a diamond ring is on my way soon .
  9. I have finished rebuilding my 5000 after taken it all apart to clean and lube it. Now I have to make sure it is set up properly, so what is the proper procedure for centering the spool with the casting cap adjustment on the right ? I'm assuming I would tightened the knob on the right until there is no play, then adjust the spool tension with the knob on the left sideplate and finally readjust the knob on the right sideplate, if needed, to make sure the spool is centered so the line lay evenly . Please advise me if I am wrong ... thanks !
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