JimJ

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Everything posted by JimJ

  1. No worries. The guy that developed it probably won’t make more than $5 million on it.
  2. When I try the surf for kings in NJ Rather than spend $13/ doz for bloods when kings may or may not be around I buy the smallest raw shrimp at the supermarket for $5-6 a pound. If kings are around shrimp or clam are almost as good as bloods. In Florida shrimp is a popular bait as well as clam and sand fleas and is sold in bait shops for southern whiting (cousins to the northern whiting -kingfish). If no kings are around and I have left over shrimp I fry up an appetizer in butter. Try that with leftover bloods. Years ago (1960s) NJ bait shops would sell small frozen shrimp for kings in pint or quart containers. Shops in my area don’t sell shrimp. No idea why shrimp isn’t popular bait in NJ any more.
  3. I have been visiting family in Melbourne for many years and usually find decent surf fishing whenever I am here for a variety of fish, usually pompano whiting bluefish jacks etc. The last 2 weeks of north winds and heavy surf have made the beach pretty unfishable with about 50-70 yards of flat beach with 2-3 feet of water in front of the trough at low tide. In early January the bluefish and whiting bite was pretty good. I expect that it will take a couple weeks of normal conditions to straighten it out. I am looking for other options for land based fishing. Is there any worthwhile fishing along the causeways crossing the Indian River. I was thinking of throwing small plugs and jigs if it is worthwhile this time of year. Latey I don’t see hardly anyone fishing there though. Any other options?
  4. I’m in NJ. Last 2 years I had to listen to my mechanic who painted my boat complain for what seemed like an hour about how the state regulations limit him from being able to use coatings that are toxic and are most effective. He has to use paints that very slowly wear off and remove the beginning of growth with the coating. Says chance of getting caught are slim but the fine can be bad. I would think most marinas aren’t going to risk using illegal coatings. Given that, I have been pleased with results over the past 2 years but my boat is used 3 or 4 days per week which also helps to limit aggressive growth.
  5. I was getting several bigger blues each trip to the beach in early January before the cold snap. I think maybe the colder water chased them? Last week I have been getting some of the biggest whiting I have ever caught with several 14-15” fileting size. Surf has been loaded with 10-12” blues and a few small Spanish. Like you say no bigger ones. Haven’t caught or seen any pompano bigger than barely legal. Looks like another week of rough surf this week.
  6. When bait fishing for stripers I usually fish 2 spiked rods, 1 lobbed just over the breakers and 1 out farther. A few years ago I had a bad overrun and clam bait landed in breakers. When I pulled out the birds nest and connected with my rig the rod was almost pulled out hands. Nice 20 pounder. After that I started fishing closer. Also during black drum run they are often in very close. For that reason I often fish clam in close and chuck a bunker chunk farther. Bunker chunk also stays on hook better than clam if casting for distance.
  7. Bare spots need priming with a primer that etches the fiberglass or the bottom paint won’t stick. 2 years ago my boats bottom was perfectly clean but I had several spots including along the waterline where the paint was worn off. I painted with bottom paint only with 2 coats over the bare spots and the paint wore off quickly at the spots that were bare. Last season I had the boat painted by my mechanic. He primed the bare spots and applied the bottom paint. I had no bare spots and only light moss over the entire bottom after a full season. I guess I got a good deal since it was $200 for a 18’ center console, especially since a quart of primer alone was $60. The bottom needed no other prep since I power wash immediately after pulling the boat before the moss dries in the fall. Given my experience and looking at the condition of your bottom I would have it professionally prepped, primed and painted this year, clean it thoroughly after pulling in the fall, and if it doesn’t need much prep consider painting it yourself next spring. For me, since my guy does a good job for $200, I’m having him do it every year.
  8. Thanks for suggestions. The beaches have recovered and the whiting and small bluefish bite has been good this week. Also caught 2 toothy stout sharks about 30” (baby spinners? Resembled brown sharks I catch up north) on mullet. As long as I am catching fish I am happy. I throw tins in the early morning and move to bait for a couple hours for the table. I’ll probably stick to the beach as long as it’s fishable. I’m addicted to surf fishing down here as the surf fishing in South Jersey where I spend summers has been terrible for the past 8 years or so. In early January before the cold snap there was a mix of 16-18” fork length blues mixed in with the 10-12” that are all over the beach now. Maybe the colder water chased the bigger ones south?
  9. Thanks for the reply. If the beach my way isn’t fishable Monday I’ll take a drive south and check out the lagoon south of Sebastian. Maybe beach further south will be in better shape too. Is best access to lagoon off A1A on the beach side or off the inland side of the lagoon? In a year or so when I move down here I’ll get a boat and have limitless options. Lol
  10. Honda Odyssey minivan. I specifically bought it over SUV options for that reason. It was also about $10000 less than SUVs similarly equipped. Gets 30 mpg on highway at 70 mph. Don’t recommend it for driving on the beach though. Lol
  11. Agree with above. What I do on all my penn spinners that are similar unsealed reels, learned from my dad: I run a bead of heavy grease around the edge of the plate that covers the gear case before you screw it down, pack grease under the drag knob and where the handle screws into the gear case. I also smear a thin grease coating over the under side of the spool. Disassemble the line roller and grease/oil frequently. Low pressure Rinse with fresh water after every use. I don’t swim with my reels but they get sprayed a lot and I have never had any salt or corrosion issues in 50 years.
  12. In my neighborhood in south jersey some of the best fishing of the year from mid 1960s through mid 1970s when I was growing up was mid March till end of April fishing in the back bay for winter flounder. An average day was 25-30 between myself brother and dad. The collapse was pretty sudden in the late 1970s when they became so scarce we basically stopped fishing for them. I heard at the time that a parasite affected them which makes sense to me since the collapse was so sudden. During the mid 1980s I would occasionally fish for them 1 day per year in prime season early April to see if any were around and a good day was a couple. I would expect overfishing or warmer water temps would have resulted in a more gradual collapse. Also the late 1970s when the collapse was most evident had a series of very cold winters. Seems like the collapse up north was later than south jersey. Today no one fishes for them and many regulars don’t even know what they are so in my area a moratorium is basically in place. So sad that they are gone.
  13. X2. Repowered 18’ Grady CC last year with 115 ETEC and very pleased with probably 40% better fuel economy than previous 1998 115 Johnson that gave me 20 years of great service. ETEC has no annual maintenance cost. My mechanic recommends 3 year maint schedule for lower unit oil and spark plugs. I have 6 year warranty covers everything. My buddy with Yami 4 stroke has $300 annual routine maintenance cost from same mechanic. ETEC also much quieter.
  14. I would get a rod that he can grow into for the conditions you fish most often. My first rod for the beach when I was about 10 was a 9’ with a Garcia 302 for south jersey flat beach where shorter rods don’t have much use. In the beginning dad would cast for me if I couldn’t reach the trough. I still use the rod 50 years later for whiting occasionally. If your conditions allow use of a shorter rod then 8’ stellar light or triumph would be good reasonable choices. The butt to reel distance is very different on these rods and I am not sure what would suit a little guys needs better. Probably the shorter length there on the Star Stellar would be better.
  15. Assuming you are looking for the reel for boat fishing, I like my Shimano Cardiff 400 for fluke fishing bait or gulp on hi lo rig. Good reel for about $120. I’ve had it for 4 years with no problems and it gets hard use. I use 20# braid and it holds much more line than I need. If to do again I would have gotten a 300. I also use old penn 940s and they have the advantage of being able to fish in one hand, having the release button on the side of the reel that doesn’t require turning the handle to reengage which makes it easier to fish a rod in each hand ( jigging buck tail or jig on spinner and dragging bait rig on conventional). Unfortunately the 940s I have can’t use braid or less than 15# mono or line finds itself beneath the spool. They don’t cast well either if that’s a concern. Good luck with your choice.
  16. My bubby has the 10’. I have the 9’ and 10.5’ Triumph. I think they are great rods for the money. I also have the 10’ mojo 1-4 oz and wish I bought the 10’ triumph instead. The 10’ triumph has a softer tip and is therefore better as a light bait rod for the whiting and other small game you will be using it for. You will be able to lean into casting with 3 oz and lob 4 oz with small bait. The 10’ triumph has enough backbone for any bass or bluefish you will catch on the surf.
  17. I don’t understand why the reel seat on conventional rods have the threaded end in front of the reel. The threads are where my left hand is placed to thumb the line back and forth. The rod would be more comfortable if the smooth fore grip of cork or cork tape was directly in front of the reel. When I first started chunking with a conventional reel I used a heavy action spinning rod where the threads are behind the reel and I think that is the better set up. I think I am going to try the temporary wrap used on tennis rackets over the threads on my conventional rods. Anybody know what the reason is for the reel seats on conventional casting rods having threads in front of the reel?
  18. I bought on the BST forum last year to fish for brown sharks on south jersey beaches. Bought it from a guy in Idaho that used it for sturgeon. I bought it on a whim when the guy selling it was getting low ball offers, I felt I had a use for it, and I gave him what he was asking -something around $80. It is mint and all original. I caught a couple of 4-5’ sharks and a Ray on it last year. I found that it is bigger, heavier and more than I need for the sharks I catch. But it’s an absolute beast. It is a little harder a cast with my smaller hands and my thumb sometimes slips off the back of the spool. I find that the 980 with 20 # mono is perfect for my needs. I have 3 of those, one that I bought in the early1980s when they first came out and 2 in mint condition that I bought on the BST forum as spares. I think that line is the best Penn surf conventional reels they made, especially for bait fishing where weight doesn’t matter much. Good luck with yours. Yeah one of the weaknesses is that the mag is hard to adjust. A dime works if you don’t have a screwdriver. I’ve used a snap on a snap swivel and a fishhook in a pinch too.
  19. Thanks Silverado. What you say makes a lot of sense. I notice on the old rods with brass seats the nut is thick and bulky and would be annoying during casting if under the back of the reel. So builders mounted the seat so the nut would be under the front of the reel. The nut was far enough under the front of the reel so the hand laying the line was only on the threads. The threads on the old brass and stainless steel seats were also fine and not as course as the threads are on the modern plastic seats so they were barely noticeable. But the nut on the modern plastic seats have a smooth thinner profile so I don’t even notice that it’s there when I use a heavy spinning rod with a conventional reel. My hands are on the small side and my reels (980 and 990) are wide so I need to have the hand laying the line close to the reel. It’s not a big deal to me but I might try some tape or tennis racket grip.
  20. With my old penn spinners, Greenies, SS spinfishers, and first gen slammers I would completely disassemble clean and grease at least annually. With my newer reels including SSVs, Stradics and Saragossa I only routinely lube the handles, line rollers, and shaft under the spool unless they get dunked or they have a problem. These New reels have too many parts and are too complex to fool with if they are working fine.
  21. Triumph 10’6” is less than $200 and a decent rod for chunking with 4-6 oz weight plus a chunk. It also was fine throwing 2 oz Hopkins during bluefish blitz. It’s the only rod I have that can comfortably cast more than advertised weight rating of 2-6 oz. I have caught plenty stripers, brown sharks, rays on it. I have even flipped it over and used it as a conventional rod. Only downside for me is that the length from butt to reel seat was too long at 26” and I cut it back 4” to 22”.
  22. You don’t want pressure that can push sand or dirt into the reel. For all my reels, sealed or not, I use a low pressure shower and then turn reel upside down so a puddle doesn’t form under the spool that can seep past the shaft. That being said the SSV with its sealing should be able to withstand a higher pressure spray with no water intrusion. Rinsing is not the cause of the roughness. As I said above you got a lemon. Get a good one and you will like it.
  23. Sealed or not it should not be rough or Geary. Post your issue on the Penn forum. The penn rep will take care of you as a SOL guy. Especially if it under warranty less than a year old. When you get it back it will be smooth.
  24. I had a SSV4500 LL that got “tight” or hard to retrieve under the lightest load for no apparent reason after using it only a few times. There was never any water intrusion, the gear box was well greased and looked pristine. I posted the issue in the Penn Reels forum and the Penn rep told me to send it in for warranty replacement. They sent me a new replacement reel. Only cost was the postage to send it in. I agree that the seals can make the reel have a little less free spin but it should not make the reel “Geary” or rough. The replacement reel and my SSV 3500 and 6500 LL that have been used a lot more are still very smooth with good free spin. From the feedback I have read on this site on the SSV reels, I think some of the SSV reels are just lemons that get Geary or tight for no apparent reason (maybe not shimmed properly at factory, defective gear, bearing, or other part). If you get a good one and take care of it, it is a good reel for the money.
  25. Agree with jimmy z. When holding rod or spiked, reel is in gear and hit them when they bite unless live line eel or bunker. Since the fish was hooked when you engaged the reel, Your problem might have been too small hooks for the fish that hit and ran off. Fireball rigs I am familiar with have 2/0 or 3/0 hooks and are for small to medium bluefish. Your runoff was likely a nice striper. For stripers I use 6/0 or 7/0 with clam or smaller chunks. 9/0 with big chunks or heads. Too small hooks don’t grap enough unless swallowed deep.