JimJ

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About JimJ

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    Brigantine NJ/ Lancaster Pa

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  1. Yeah it’s a beauty. I have 2 750SS, 1 850SS and 2 550 SS. All in like new shape despite alot of use over 30+ years. Made in USA, with quality materials and will last a lifetime if taken care of.
  2. Mystic parts has a replacement that fits but is not identical replacement. Part 52N-750N for $9.95 plus shipping. It’s actually an improved design from later versions of the spinfisher series that has a brass insert. I had a drag knob on a 750SS crack a few years ago and I got one of theses and it worked. Many of the new available parts that fit these older reels are not identical but work.
  3. I find WD 40 to be an excellent corrosion inhibitor. I wipe all the stainless steel fittings, railings and other SS components on my boat with a rag soaked in WD40 twice a year for 20 years (mid season and end of season and I don’t have any pitting staining or any corrosion. Before that I tried all kinds of marine products that are supposed to be for the purpose and was starting to get pitting and staining when using them much more frequently. I also use it on reel feet when I take the reels off rods to prevent corrosion under them and on external SS reel parts I agree it’s not a lubricant. But when it dries the film it leaves prevents corrosion better than anything else I have tried. Also a good solvent to remove dried grease.
  4. St croix premier. The 7’ heavy comes in 2 piece. It has very similar action as their one piece 7’ Tidemaster MH fast action. It is very good for plugging up to 11/2 oz. The premier line is listed as fresh water rods but I have had a few of them and they are fine for salt water.
  5. A couple years ago picked up a Star Stellar light 11’ 3-9 oz spinner with 6000 Battle 2 for $90. Rod and reel were mint condition and might not have been used. When I picked it up I found it was a young lady selling it. When I asked why she said her husband left her and she’s selling all his sh****.
  6. I had a 4500 LL that got stiff under no load after a few trips for no apparent reason. No grinding or rough, just very stiff to the point I couldn’t fish with it. Problem wouldn’t go away. I took it apart several times trying to figure it out and still stiff. Everything was lubed properly, No water intrusion or worn parts that I could determine. Finally asked for help on the Penn thread here and Tony took care of me. Sent me a new one within a couple weeks that was fine. I suspect that a seal around the shaft got misaligned or maybe the reel wasn’t shimmed properly at factory. I have 2 other SSVs with a lot of use that have not had any issues.
  7. I like new rods and old reels. New materials for higher end rods make them much lighter and have much improved performance for most applications over cheaper rods. To save money i would buy older (1970s-1980s vintage) lightly used USA made penn reels that are made to last a life time with proper care. Their only down side is they are heavier than current high dollar reels because they are all metal with brass gears. To offset the weight I down size the reels a notch. For example 550ss on 10’ 6” rod.
  8. Best solution is to have braid put on at a tackle shop. That way you are only paying for what you need to fill the reel properly. You may pay a bit more per yard but imo it’s worth it. To use150 yard spools you need to guess on how much backing to put on or put the backing on top and go through double reversing the line which I have done and consider it more trouble than it’s worth. Too often the 300 or 600 yard spools result in significant length of unusable line left over.
  9. Not true. I had the reel seat and foregrip on a fenwick HMG casting rod fall apart a couple years ago. I called their customer service, sent them photos and a copy of my sales receipt. They sent me a new rod and didn’t even want me to return the broken rod. Didn’t cost me anything. I was even able to epoxy the reel seat together to make a functioning backup rod. St Croix warranty has been good to me for a loose reel seat and 3 broken rods over the years. 2 of the broken rods were my fault. Not too bad a failure rate considering I’ve had about 2 dozen st croix rods that get heavy use over the past 25 years.
  10. It’s hard to see what failed. Bolts that secure hitch to car or did the hitch just come apart? I feel for you. Good luck with getting back on the road and for the rest of your trip.
  11. Never did exactly what you are considering. I did have an old yellow lamiglass fiberglass rod where the ferrule connection was always a little loose and I tried building bottom section with varnish and it only worked for short time. Probably worn in from repeated taking apart. Finally expoxied rod together and made it 1 piece that fixed it. Whether you try a coating of some kind or tape I would be sure that when done and the rod is together that you have the same overlap to the bottom section as with the top section designed for the rod. If you build up the bottom section too much and the top section doesn’t go on as far there will be a lot more concentrated stress. You also need to be sure the fit is tight with no play. Personally I wouldn’t attempt it on an expensive rod or one I really liked.
  12. What kind of gloves are you talking about? As I described above the barb from a Ray I was releasing sliced through my waders boot at the ankle. At least 1/8” thick rubber. I now only approach a Ray from the front and cut off the hook a foot or so from the hook and push the ray back in the wash with my 4’ sandspike. IMO “handling” them is foolish.
  13. We’re you starting the drift on a drop off from shallow to deeper water Then the drift continued onto relatively flat bottom with same depth? Fluke often hang at the drop offs. I often hook up at end of drift as I drift from deeper to shallow water.
  14. I got stung in the ankle through the boot of my waders. I was trying to turn it around in the wash with my foot after cutting the hook off so it was pointed out to swim off and in an instant the tail whipped and hit my boot. I thought the boot would protect my foot and was very wrong. The barb sliced through the side of the boot and hit the vein in my ankle. Immediate pain. When I got my waders off my sock was soaked in blood. I called my wife to google first aid recommendation and she said to soak in hottest water you can stand. I ran off the beach drove home and after soaking it the pain subsided. Now I use my 4’ long sand spike if needed to assist in getting rays back in deep enough water for them to swim off.
  15. I’ve tried a few of the colors and almost always white or glow is most effective for fluke for me whether it’s shrimp, swimming minnow, or jerk shad. chartruce seems best for searobins. So recently I’ve only bought white.