linesiderdemdnj

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About linesiderdemdnj

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  1. Thanks everyone for the help. I am going to see if I can patch it myself, to see if I can actually do it. But I ordered a 19 outback because I could really screw myself over if caught in the right situation. Thank you
  2. I actually just ordered the 19 outback. Papaya. Your post basically gave me a push to do so. I agree 100%. I could theoretically die if caught in a bad situation if I end up fixing this and trusting it too much. So many variables. Thanks.
  3. I dunno. It sucks. Yeah, your story has me spooked even more honestly. I will just do the supports underneath first, let that cure and dry, then go for the top crack and drill holes in it to stop it, use the 5200, then fab up an aluminum insert to fill the bottom of the drive well and an indent for the drive to sit on, with a hole through it to still screw in the knob to click it into place. It’s gonna be ghetto but I have a feeling it could work if the aluminum is on there spreading out the torque to not just that one area. And 5200 the **** out of it. Both sides
  4. I just talked to delaware Paddlesports and they don’t recommend 5200. Unbelievable. Can’t even believe this is happening right now. No idea what to do. No clue.
  5. What I’m worried about if I try 5200 first is the inability to be able to plastic weld with 5200 on there. Also it’s quite difficult reaching in to the problem area from inside, which is why I’m hesitant to plastic weld. Ugh. Sucks
  6. Also, can you explain what you mean by v-notch please? Just want to get everything right and create a plan
  7. Right, but what about using 5200? I have no experience with plastic welding. I would drill holes at the 3 ends of the crack and use 5200 after heating it. Both sides hopefully. Or do you think its plastic weld or im screwed? One poster seems to think 5200 would be fine. I’m torn. Don’t know what to do. Not sure if I should take it somewhere or try it myself
  8. Are you on the same line of thought that I should drill holes on the ends of the cracks and use a heat gun? Part of me wants to bring it to a shop that can plastic weld. Cause I am fairly crafty but I feel like messing this kind of a thing up would be bad. I also don’t have a cigarette lighter. What other alternatives are there for heating the surface. Is it just supposed to be warm or hotish or close to melting? anyone have any somewhat specific instructions by any chance? I know most in here haven’t done their own repairs but sheesh I would love to get a 19 but it would stretch the funds a little bit. But gotta be available if you know what I mean
  9. Thank you. Would I hold the gun on it for a period of time? Seconds/a minute? i plan on bringing it somewhere. If this ends up failing I’ll be in the market for a new hobie, probably a compass. Looks like it has everything I would need but Elias complained about the seat and it looks like it’s a bit raised up kinda high. Wish I wasn’t in this situation right now. Eating away at me hardcore.
  10. Thank you. Drilling seems like a good idea now that you explain the reasoning behind it. One thing, the crack has 3 branches to it. So 3 holes I am guessing? I will need to make a hole close or inside the threads of the screw and a hole where the pin on the drive sits. Also absolutely for the sponges and hand pump. For sure
  11. Drill holes and plastic weld? Oh jeez. Not what I wanted to hear. Don’t know how to plastic weld and that sounds like it’s beyond my ability honestly. I could mess it up more. 5200 on top and on bottom of that crack won’t do it you don’t think?
  12. Ok. With 5200? apply from top I guess? I can’t tell if the crack extends into the screw threads in the plastic. It looks like it doesn’t but can’t tell.