JefeJefe
BST Users-
Posts
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Thanks for the the feedback! So, I moved the 10 up to the spot (choke point) where the first 8 was previously. I added one more 8 and changed the spacing so it is currently: 40, 25, 16, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, Tip(8) The running train of 8's are symmetrically closer as you work up to the tip. (Spacing starts at 18mm and decreases to 11mm at the tip.) I think the static load looks good, but what do you guys think?
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Thanks for the feedback. Here is where I am. Here is the layout I used and here are some pictures of where I am. I ended up with 3 BLVOG 8's for the running train and the BMGOT 8 tip. I couldn't make a perfect 45 degree jig for static loading but I hope I got it close enough. I have a few questions/comments: I definitely need more BLVOG 8's for my running train. I was going to split the difference between the running train guides (including tip) and static load again. That would be 4 more BLVOG 8's. The BLVOG 8 that ends the reduction train seems awkwardly close to the preceding BLVOG 10. Any thoughts about moving it further up the rod (into the running train)?
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Bump.
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Thanks, couple of questions: 1. What weight sandpaper would you use to clean up the areas under the old guides? 2. The area under the old guides doesn't have the same glossy coat as the rest of the blank. What should I use? I know epoxy breaks down under UV light... 3. Any tricks for how to remove the old tip? 4. Any recommendation for tip? I was looking at Fuji All Purpose Spin/Cast Top F
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Mike et al Would you mind having a look and letting me know if this seems right? Overall pole length: 267 cm Top of spool is 57 cm from butt end Center post of spool is 11 cm from centerline of blank Choke point is 133 cm above spool top (Penn Spinfisher 700 with ~4.75 degree upsweep)
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I read the "Theory of the New Guide Concept" and the static load tutorial, but I am still not clear on locating the guides and how many. In the meantime I have some more information. The reel is an old Penn Spinfisher 700. I drew out a scale model and am attaching some pictures. My understanding is the guides will be located by height off the pole so they are centered on the centerline of the up-sweep angle. Is the diameter of the guide itself supposed to match the diameter of the coil at that location?
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Great replies, thanks for the insight. The rod is sentimental in the sense that I don't want to throw it out, but I would like it to be functional so I think it makes sense to prioritize improved function over restoring original aesthetics. That being said, I have read up on NGC and some of the comments above seem like changing up the guide setup would make for a much better rod, albeit fiberglass. I will be using 20# monofilament and casting mostly lures. The rod is 8'9". On mudhole they have a Fuji spacing chart. Will splitting the difference between the 8'6" and 9' get me close enough, and is this spacing appropriate for an old fiberglass rod? They call for a 40, 30, 25, 20, 16, 12, 10 (then 10 tip). The Fuji BSVOG mentioned are not NGC, and mudhole didn't have the 40 in the color I wanted. The American tackle XSG are available, and are a little more expensive than the Minima. I wasn't sure about the Minima XT4XG being NGC, or in this application whether it really matters since I am trying to improve and older fiberglass rod. Is close enough (meaning more guides, at NGC spacing) close enough?
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Thanks for the replies. I am pretty sure the guides are all the same and original. I think the one that looks different is because the ring came detached. It does have sentimental value, although I would like to use it after repair. I was planning on replacing all the guides +/- the tip. I like doing projects and would enjoy trying to do it myself. I enjoyed learning about epoxy when I built my sailboat. I will get a picture of the reel the next chance I get. If the new guides are the same diameter and spacing as the old ones, would that work? If this is too much of a newbie type query, are there any resources you can suggest? I attached some additional pictures if that will help at all. Thanks again!
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I am looking for advice for repairing a fishing rod. I have no rod-building experience. The rod is a "Mohawk Deluxe S-105". It is a little over 8.5 feet with a classic spinning reel. (Green reel with a white knob; I think it may be a Spinfisher or Shakespeare.) I will be using it in saltwater to surfcast for striped bass and bluefish. One of the guide rings broke off and another is cracked. From the tip working toward the butt, (excluding the tip guide) there are guides at 10", 21.75", 35.25" and 50.25". The dimensions of these guides are (diameter x toe-to-toe length): 5/8"(15.9mm) x 1 5/16", 1.5" (38.1mm) x 2", 1.5" (38.1mm) x 2", 2" (50.8mm) x 3.75" respectively. I need a recommendation on replacement guides (brand and source). It seemed like Fuji guides are highly recommended but I was having trouble finding the sizes I (thought I) would need and I wasn't sure what model to use anyway.
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Long Island Sound - Help a beginer start father/son hobby
JefeJefe replied to Nick B's topic in Inshore Fishing
Nick, How did you make out this summer? I was in a similar position a few years back in terms of experience and (much) younger kids. Porgy fishing has been great. I fish the bay, but knew a guy that used to slaughter porgies in the Sound. He used to fish around a huge underwater boulder. In the bay, I anchor close to a point and channel. The water quickly drops off about 4-5 feet. I anchor there (preferring to be a little on the deeper side). I tie a chum pot that I hang off the bow so it just barely touches the bottom and bounces off the bottom as the bow rises and falls. I used a frozen tube of clams that I buy from the tackle shop and cut a bunch of 1" slits in the bag. (Any bigger and it melts and falls apart too quickly). We use Fin Strike Porgy rigs (Hi-Lo, #2) and only fish clams. I know a lifelong fisherman who recently switched over to clams from squid for porgies. We are only fishing in 12 feet of water at most, so 1 oz. sinkers are more than enough. (You may need the next size up or so.) We use light spinning reels (e.g. Penn battle II 2500) and tackle (8# mono). Rods are all cheap yard sale stuff (light power, fast action, maybe ~ 6.5'). We actually also consistently use and catch two fish at once on the Shakespeare toy rods (e.g. Disney Princess and Lightening McQueen) - so you don't need much! We catch mostly Porgies, the occasional sea robin and have caught a sand shark and a two small Northern Kingfish once. The spines on the fish are sharp and hurt (for days). I use a leather work glove or a Lindy Fishing glove on my non-dominant hand to handle them. Good to have a tool to remove the hook (needle nose pliers or hook removal tool). We keep them to eat, so I slice through the gills down through the throat before I throw them in a ice/salt water bath in the cooler. (Cleaning them is another story.) The kids love it and it's been a great thing. -
Any recommendations for fish shears? I would prioritize quality and durability. Would rather "buy it for life" if possible. I will be using to trim porgy spines, fins and tails. So far I am considering Cutco, Shun, Fiskar (either Butcher shears or Quick release multi-snips (which unfortunately do not disassemble for cleaning)). I have read some of the older threads.
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Idk...I have read about it being used on 80# line and even though I am using 60, it just seems like the line is too heavy and tough. Almost like there is too much "memory" in the line. FYI, this is what I am using: http://www.masontackle.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=127 Trying to tie to a 75# barrel swivel with clip.
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I am trying to tie some leaders using Mason Hard Type nylon 60# to a small barrel swivel (and clip). I am having a hard time getting the know to cinch down cleanly. It seems to end up with slack in the knot. Any suggestions?
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Thanks Steve - I appreciate it!