BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About DanTheBassMan

  • Rank


  • About Me:
    Lost soul with a long pole.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    1. (Fly) Fishing
    2. Producing short films on fishing
    3. Thinking about fishing
  • What I do for a living:
    Fish when I can, busy making time for fishing the other couple hours of the day.

Profile Fields

  • Gender
  • Location
    MIA ca. Last Night

Recent Profile Visitors

1,882 profile views
  1. That may well have been my buddy and I, although we were in his 13' Whaler. Looked around a couple hours for a school that looked promising and finally found one precisely where and when I'd bet you saw what you did. We positioned on the school, snagged a couple, and turned around only to see a purse seiner making a bee-line towards us all the way from Bakers. Sure enough, does a loop around the school and nearly takes our snagged pogies, too. Buddy and I just looked at each other and back at the situation a few times, speechless, as the whole school goes to Omega Protein. Can't make this **** up!
  2. It's the truth. My albie go-to from yak & boat is an Eagle Claw Featherlight 6'6" 3/4 wt. The tippet is the weak spot every time the hook isn't. Fiberglass means tight drags all the way through the fight. Fun stuff.
  3. Hi Joed5, IMO, I don't trust the Gami SC15s (not the 2x heavy SC15-2Hs) for the most part, especially in the smaller sizes. I've seen too many bent or broken on albies to use them with confidence. I prefer the following for various albie flies: Gamakatsu Live Bait, sizes 12-4 (Heavy wire relative to size; good for the smallest flies) Daiichi X510, sizes 10-4 (Super sharp, heavy wire, and good bend shape) Tiemco 800S, sizes 6-2 (Decent all-around, but brittle. I like them especially for bonito bunnies) Tiemco 811S, sizes 4-1/0 (Also brittle, but good for flies that require long shanks, such as crease flies) Owner Flyliner, sizes 8-1/0 (Pretty good all-around. Sharp, heavy wire, not very brittle, good bend shape) I like albies flies on the smaller side for most of the stuff I do in MA & RI, but I also need strong hooks because I prefer to put the brakes on fish as much as my tippet/leader allows me to. The above five hooks, off the top of my head, check both boxes, and then some. Dan
  4. Hey Killie, I think I've come to adopt a more open stance when possible, as well as utilizing lower body movement to begin the cast and power through my body to my arms. Start at the foundation, large muscles first, and finish off with fastest movements with the smallest muscles/muscle groups. In the clips above, my casting is very bottom hand dominant. Powering with the top hand snuck into my casting the last couple months, but Red pointed out that my bottom hand was slacking off, and after watching him rail on my Mk. II and consistently smack line lengths tight that I was hardly getting to straighten, I consciously emphasized bottom hand use and began to see some improvement. I haven't cast TH in over a couple weeks now, so if I pick up the rod and start off on the right foot, I may have some decent footage as long as I don't reintroduce some bad habits by mindless casting. I always want more distance, but more importantly, I want more consistency, efficiency, flexibility, and ability to handle tough conditions. The latter four are more reliant on good technique than even distance, IMO. Distance comes naturally by focusing on all other aspects of a quality cast. Focusing on distance only tends to send my casting down the tubes. Wearing sunglasses in the Pandion clip, but not in the 12x12 clip. IIRC, I had a hookless fly or similar substitute in the 12x12 clips, and it was getting dark out. It's good you noticed that, though. Nowadays, I don't cast without sunglasses on during the day or safety glasses at all other times. If I forget my glasses or they get hopelessly fogged up, I turn my head in the direction of the cast before making the cast. By doing this on both forward casts and backcasts, I eliminate the chance of the fly hooking me in the face, and this technique is in fact recommended by some instructors & comp casters to see the directions in which your line travels on the casts and to watch a target before making the delivery cast to it. Not optimal, but it can work. I'd still be very interested to see your technique with a THer, as well as any/everybody else's on this thread. It's great to cross-reference technique, as well as to see how other casters' gear works in action. Such info was invaluable to me when I was just starting out. Best Dan
  5. Hey Red, thanks for the competi⁠—er, inspiration to go make some slow-mos with Mk. II, which I will try to get to tomorrow. Somewhat curious to see how the rod flexes myself. Should've gotten to them earlier, but I hardly finished it in time for the fish, and I've had only one thing on my mind since. I do have a few TH casting videos with some (at one point) commercially available THers from last summer and this past winter. I'll post them down below. By no means do I think they're exemplar in any way, shape, or form, but they do reveal a good deal about the relationship between body, rod, and line in the casts, both in positive and negative ways. None were taken in challenging conditions, but it's hard to get any kind of decent footage under those circumstances, although I have an assignment that may just require me to do so this year. I really enjoy watching other people cast in slow-mo⁠—it's probably the best learning & teaching tool, in addition to recording ourselves to analyze and compare, available to us short of instructors. There is a real shortage of such footage online, though, especially of truly world-class casters. Would be amazing if somebody recorded the entirety of the next world comps in slow-mo; it would be a gold mine for all other casters to analyze. Conditions would be far from realistic, but hey⁠—great lawn casting doesn't hurt technique on the water, and vice versa. I didn't drift much, if at all, in any of the videos below, and I only really started to employ lower body in the TFO 12x12 clips. I think I've since refined my technique a bit more, and I hope the videos I make in the next few days will reflect that, but nonetheless, I'm looking forward to any and all comments, criticisms, and questions from anybody. Always learning and trying to help others learn the best I can. I'll note that the cast in the Pandion clip went ~120', and the delivery stroke was started a touch too early. In the 12x12 clips from an oblique angle (the last three clips), the fly-leg appears to tail a lot more than in it did in person (they appear the same as the loop in the first clip), and those casts went 100-110' depending on how much running line I had out. Conditions were pretty flat in both clips, maybe an occasional 3-5 mph gust from 12 o'clock in the 12x12 clips. Measurements in the 12x12 clip are based on physical landmarks, the Pandion clip from intuition. For gear details, right click the videos, copy their links, and view the video descriptions on YouTube. Hope this helps. More to come. Cheers, Dan
  6. Well, I've flattened softer hooks, so it's more so my clamping technique than the heat treat. Don't bash the TMC 800s off anything and it's solid as a rock. For its size, it's the stoutest and sharpest hook I know of, short of your bloody Gami livebait hooks that you will never punch into any decent fish's mouth with any consistency unless it's a size 8. That's where they really shine.
  7. I don't know, Red... I've cracked two Tiemcos while clamping in my vice. Hooks shifting while tying is a pet peeve of mine, so I really do clamp down as far as the vice will go, but it goes to show it is possible. Seadogg, I've moved on from the Partridge UPX 8/0s. A much more solid hook, based on its lack of flex compared to the UPX, is the Owner Long Shank hook, model 5192. The 7/0 is almost identical in length to the UPX 8/0, but the wire on the 5192 is 0.074", while that of the UPX is 0.070". Although it seems like a very small difference, the 5192 is considerably more rigid and has a bit more heft to it. To be sure, the strength of the hook will probably depend more on temper, but I've seen a fair number of broken UPX 8/0s and never an Owner 5192. The gap on the UPX 8/0 is a hair larger than that of the 5192 7/0, but it's smaller than the gap on the 5192 9/0. The 9/0 also has a wire diameter of 0.084" and is quite a bit heavier and longer. Dan
  8. You're on. Might end up having a bidding war of tips with Mike for his ticket next time. HT, glad we're in agreement. Just hope we can avoid future "something's happened..."-as-Mike-sprints-by-after-closing-time moments. Has he acted on the number he got at Fish & Chips yet? Dan
  9. I refuse to stoop to that level. A pair of ear muffs and nose plugs will suffice. Secret spot... I'll cast the net wide. N 41° 40' 56.391" W 69° 59' 33.93"?
  10. So that's why you hogged the front of the line all the way down the shore? That's one way of putting it... Tosser*
  11. Mike's been playing around with more overhang. Not quite 15-20' of it, though. Posting rate is inversely proportional to time on the water and directly proportional time spent with the group.
  12. You go in the water, you get wet. Mike's realized you can't keep gear dry; for some reason, he still thinks you can keep yourself dry. Simms snob, to boot. Have you tried parachute cord for your Mk III? Might eliminate the need for silencers.
  13. BUMP as per the request of the honorable double-handing, kelly-kettling redcoat himself. All weekend long, on and on and on about Swiss cheese waders and wet noodle laces. Snobmograph reading a solid 9.5. Get a proper pair of basketball shorts and Crocs, will ya? Git.
  14. Hi all, Title pretty much says it all. Looking to buy a 0.024" Monic shooting line with GSP core. This is the orange shooting line that they seem to have discontinued a few years back. Some poking around online has me thinking this may have potentially been due to QC/design issues. If you could post a pic or two, or give a very brief description of the texture/appearance of the line, it'd would be much appreciated. That said, as long as it hasn't been used and abused too much, I'm sure it'd be in fine enough shape for me. Thanks in advance, Dan
  15. That's a good niche purpose for most of the commercial OH THs. If the limited backcast room is due to an impenetrable treeline, that's a good solution. If it's an 8-15' sand dune like that at the mark I was talking about, it's possible to cast over it with a high backcast; this is what Mike does. I was not about to do that with my Pandion despite it being a foot longer because the tip did not have the authority to send the line at those kinds of angles. In the estuaries I've been fishing so this year, the treeline has small, intermittent gaps through which I roll out my backcast on the last false cast before delivery. These spaces are very tight, and I tent to doubt I'd be able to do the same with a TH. How little backcast room can you get away with? If it's less than 20, maybe even 25 feet, I'd probably just angle my backcast so as not to cast perpendicular to the obstructions. In a marsh, I'm usually fishing a current moving from left to right or vice versa, so I do this to some degree anyways to achieve a longer drift. I can't say I'm much of a fan of casting with some of the head still inside the rod, unless you're talking about an integrated line. Tough scenario for sure. I'll probably find myself in it often enough this year to come to better solution than what I currently do.