hawkoath

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About hawkoath

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  1. I need a 3 or 4 piece travel rod for salmon fishing. MH to H.
  2. Anyone have an older Lamiglas Kenai Travel Rod they are willing to sell?
  3. Anyone have the MH or H version of the older G.Loomis Escape 8'3" travel rod that they are willing to part with? I'm mostly interested in the spinning version but might consider the casting versions.
  4. For me, starting conventional fishing involved buying a $10 rod and reel with line from a garage sale in AK. With a bobber and hook i could pretty much fish for any "small" fish and pretty much use any lure to fish for "real" fish back then in AK (I never fished for trout back then and we didn't have bass but focused on salmon and ocean species (rockfish, flounder, Pacific cod, etc...)). In general, you can use a cheap $10 spinning rod and reel and some 12lb test online or from any secondary market to pretty much catch the vast majority of things anytime anywhere. If I wanted to fish a tiny creek or fish the ocean I could use the same thing. It would be super hard to find someone willing to sell you fly gear for that price. Also, you actually need to have either have someone help set you up properly or do quite a bit of research which isn't necessarily the case for conventional fishing. Just the sheer number of fly lines that you need for one species in one area can be a real chore to manage not to mention being forced to use a stripping basket and waders in this particular area. Granted you need to use fly gear to have a much better chance at success but it takes a lot more setup time, money, and research.
  5. Does anyone have any experience with a decent fishing life jacket and a stripping basket?
  6. Joanns or any fabric store should have literally hundreds of selections of fabric types and colors you can choose from. You can also go wild and customize it however you want if (microfiber inner layer, super strong suede outer layer, extra cushioning on the bottom and top, a top flap with velcro, etc...). Bring your rods to the store and have the ladies there to help you measure up how much you need. You can then ask them for referrals to a seamstress if they can't create it for you right on the spot. You can also ask any decent clothing shop that does at least alterations or essentially anyone who has a sewing machine to knit it up for you.
  7. Looks, smells and acts like a fish's meal. Has a fish sonar inside of it that transmits back to my mobile device along with a HD GoPro that can see 360 degrees and all around and transmit to my Google glasses. It can move by itself or can be guided by me with specialized gloves. If the fish don't like my presentation for any reason I can then I can shoot it with it's enclosed laser and retrieve via onboard spear gun inside the lure. Oh did I mention it should be able to change color and shape as well.
  8. You really need to identify you objective. Is it catch the most fish you can (a conventional setup may be best for that)? Is it just to have fun and give a whirl (by a cheap $50 starter setup)? Is it to have the most fun you can in a limited window of opportunity (hire a guide to take you fishing)? Or is it to consistently and somewhat often fish for fish that are more accessible fly fishing or maybe develop discipline and a lot of patience in yourself or your family, etc....? Then go to a fly shop and have then walk you through the process... Fly fishing is many times more complicated in the initial setup process. I can't emphasize that enough. It's a lot safer to just go to a fly store and have them get you completely set up. That being said it can be done but will take a lot of research which would include a lot of reading and talking to various local anglers as everyone has their own individual take on things. It's like learning a baitcaster but many times more complicated as there are so many more pieces to the puzzle and if you get one wrong... I was in the same situation and have only recently just have completed my setup after a lot of research and patience. The first thing you need to do is identify which species you are targeting and where exactly you will fishing because everything could change depending on these two factors. My own thought process was that there are a couple species that it's much more productive to fly fish than use a conventional setup for. I then identified what weight the setup should be. I researched and found out all the components to fly fishing (in order of importance for me: presentation/fly, line, rod, tippet, leader, reel, etc...) and identified what was the top 5 most desirable items in each component category. I've found that for myself using not so great old fly gear puts too much stress on my elbow and body and I wanted something to last and be decent for a long time as I actually go fishing quite a bit. Researching each component though can take quite a bit of time but is worth if you really want to know about fly fishing and all its complexity. After all that research go to all the secondary markets, clubs, swaps and trade shows and see if you can find fantastic deals on equipment while also gaining additional information that can help you make a decision and grab the gear you need. As for an 8Wt, being in the Puget Sound (PNW) region I also get the same fish that you mentioned as well and face those fish all the time. An 8wt would be for mid size coho/steelhead and above here. Good Luck
  9. For those of you out there familiar with both, what are benefits and cons of using one vs. the other?
  10. Nice. Thanks a bunch for taking your time and sharing your findings the new line so far. I don't suppose you will fish it flipping docks, plunking the weeds/lilies, or any type of bottom bouncing? I really want to get a good idea of its abrasion resistance. I had previously heard the hype about Nanofil and spooled some 12lb test for some trout fishing. The line had a ton of fraying and I had three breaks before I decided it wasn't for me. Nanofil felt really smooth and casted really well, but I didn't feel like it casted any better than other quality braids with the same diameter. It did seem to cast better in the wind though. I've been looking a small diameter line with better Strength/Diameter ratio, can cast well in the wind and I can use for many, many situations. And be reliable so I don't have to check for nicks every other cast. I am crossing my fingers that Gliss can at least meet most of these requirements.
  11. Please let us know about the abrasion resistance / durability of Gliss. That was the big issue with Nanofil. Too much time spent checking the line and retying or I would get breakoffs.
  12. I had previously created a list of all my fishing rods and reels in my profile before the new platform. How do I access it again, if possible?
  13. I was wondering if you can compare them to the old Simms Solarflex Hoody if you have ever used them before. I use both sunscreen and the above mentioned ninja suit. My old Simms is extremely light, does a fantastic job of keeping me warm during the colder days, is breathable, and actually serves as a positive fashion statement if I wear a dark colored polo above it (my hoody is cream white). The hoody when not in use as protective/warmth gear makes a fantastic and yet unintrusive balaclava. So both extremely functional and good looking as well.
  14. While I've never float fished for Stripers before, I believe a good steelhead/salmon rod should be more than adequate for those type of fish. By good rod I mean one with a lifetime warranty and probably at least a medium power rod of 8-12lb. I know plenty of people who have caught very large King Salmon with medium power rods without them breaking and those are pretty much the same as the very large striped bass give and take a little. I've used my medium power beater rod (with 1 year warranty) to catch things up to medium size sharks and while it might take a minute or two to get them in I haven't had them break on me. There are advantages though of having a dedicated surf rod. They actually do cast farther than a dedicated salmon/steelhead rod as the 8 foot and above rods are either meant for boat use or drift/float fishing where huge distances are not going to be that much of a factor. The Lamiglas SI or G.Loomis IMX are designed more for sensitivity, lightness and durability than distance. They do cast pretty far but don't expect to spool a Stradic 5000 FJ filled up with 150 yards of 30lb PP. I have no clue what the prices are in your area but a Lamiglas Redline would be around $150-$120 depending on the location and time around WA. It is relatively light and comes with a lifetime warranty. Other cheaper options include the Lamiglas X11 and the Berkeley Air IM8 along with names such as TICA and others. The best value in my opinion would be the Working Man's Rod from North Fork Custom Rods that are $235-$250 which are made from North Fork Composite IM blanks (Gary Loomis's new company). Look them up and give them a call if that price range works for you. These also come with lifetime warranties and are fantastic rods. The good thing about the lifetime warranty is that the manufacturer has incentive to make sure their rods don't break on you. BTW I don't believe Bass Pro Shops has any of these rods though I could be wrong. The last time I went to their megastore their selection was really wanting.
  15. I don't believe there is anything in April in the immediate Seattle region except small freshwater fish. Drive a few hours away and you can take your pick of charters and guides to catch Lingcod/Rockfish, Steelhead and other things such as Kokanee and Walleye. I also believe the yellow perch, carp and rainbow trout are very active around the Seattle Area. There is a certain website for WA that has a bunch of information/charters/guides/etc... I personally would suggest the Steelhead runs as everyone I know is limiting out and giving away fish. Again, unless you are fishing for trout and perch you have to drive a few hours. PM me for the website if you are interested.