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About ZAFisher

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  1. You are correct, I was not wearing my OAP glasses.. Sorry Not sure I would call it a design flaw or mistake, parts in the most expensive machines can fail too
  2. Food for thought: Just sharing some info on one of my own rods. It is for a conventional so not exactly the same dynamics, but: 10' 1-4oz spiral wrapped KW20 KW12 KW8 KW8 with 7x KT7 runners Practice reel is a 6500 CT chrome rocket spooled with 0.40mm / 20lb mono mainline and a 0.80mm / 80lb mono shock leader. Dead quiet when I cast it.
  3. RKG, by the time the line is passing through the KW10M, it is 99% choked; call it your choke; albeit raised. For a similar rod , but around 11' long, the RV25 at about 34" and the KW10M at around 60" or so from the spool face you should be good, you might need to push stripper and choke out a bit, based on the 12'6 rod's ability to generate line speed, not necessarily the spool dia
  4. Eric, for super strong knots that won't be cast, but could be pulled by a shark or ray, FG or PR your mainline to to much heavier length of braid and then join the top up or top shot with the same method to the heavy braid
  5. KL6L would never be used as running guides. KB6 and KT6 would be - you not maybe thinking of these? 25lb fluro would be around 0.45mm. Go 7's KL7L to KB7 to KT7
  6. Those are the remains of a a destroyed bearing - key 55A-TS5 Ball Bearing part no 1211094 on the schematic; looks like the cage and inner race You need to replace it not secure the rings... If the bearing failed to this degree, you would have ended up with the tiny steel balls of the bearing floating around your gear box like very hard, very damage inducing bits of grit... In all likelihood this bearing is the source of your woes - it failed and the balls destroyed other parts.
  7. And for your next rabbit hole: taping on guides and casting.
  8. Funny thing - with a stripper that is too far out, when the braid is wet you get a jump rope effect due to increased mass and braid starts banging against the blank WAY before you would start to call it a line slap problem, ie mid-way between reel and stripper and between widely spaced guides. Sufix' 832 is especially good (bad) at doing this. For a big heaver type rod (with a fixed spool reel) where you are casting maybe 3- times in an hour, you don't notice as much. When plugging and throwing a cast or two a minute it gets old fast and you loose distance big time.
  9. Aim for as quiet as you can make it Start at 34", work out from there and then adjust remainder. VR125 has an itty bitty spool dia compared to your new Saltiga so 29" is fine Inasmcuh the Saltiga is a (fairly) short stroke design, it can shed line awfully fast. Also your line choice (based on target species) is pretty stout. Tape and test.
  10. The joint probably needs a bit of fettling, but you should not have to do this yourself, it should be fine as purchased, if you do anything to the joint yourself, you could end up voiding the warranty.. Take it back.
  11. Make sure you have the joint fully seated - a rod like that will be designed to have around 3" of insert or fit and you are only getting say 1.5" it will rattle and ultimately will break. (think of holding onto the end of a broom stick with 2 fingers and your thumb vs your whole hand) You mentioned it was a very tight fit; I am suspecting it is not fully seated, despite your description of a good amount of force, the actual overlap distance is more important. Easy check, assemble rod, mark with masking tape; take apart and measure
  12. Well it will depend on whether you go 30 20 12 or 30 25 20 12 for a total of at least 9 guides + tip top on a 12' Maybe I have erred, is this a 12' SME?
  13. Front / tapered portion of a NPS seat is not round; more noticible on a size 20 than say on a size 16 There are nifty aluminium trim rings that you can insert inside the end of the seat and which forces it into a round shape No problem; have done it many times, just be careful of how much you sand away ie too much and you are into what lies underneath..... Assuming these are all double foot KW's? If so buy a #25 too, I know AFMike likes the drop from KW30 to KW20, but I only do it if the layout is from KW to KL ie double foot stripper to single foot. Surfishermike and sing from the same hymn sheet in this regard, try both set ups and see which you prefer. And buy another # 10 runner. B