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About shivsean

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  1. Quote: Originally Posted by Mokes Wife and I carry Spydercos. Black is a Manix 2 and the purple is her Delica. Both great blades. Highly recommend both. Manix XL is my favorite knifie. Fab grip and strong axis lock
  2. Great post Keltan. Loved how that guy flew his bait way out there.
  3. Quote: Originally Posted by scoobydoo Alot of the drones are designed to carry go pros or other action cams. The recent top gear special used a ton of drone footage. As do quite a few movies attaching dslr bodies// lenses) I've see tons of video where they just randomly lose control and either fly away or fall out of the sky. PUt a helicopter blade on your dremel tool...then put it up to your face.......not my idea of a good time. These things will be banned after a few injury lawsuits. Then we will have to also ban all radio controlled helicopters, gliders, airplanes, jets, hovercraft. boats. etc., which have been around for years before any of the "drones" came on to the scene. Where do you suggest we draw the line?
  4. That's a Kershaw Leek, with G10 handle/scale material. Awesome everyday carry knife, but slightly expensive due to a higher quality blade steel used - S30V blade steel. The model is 1660G10 and it retails for roughly $85
  5. From the album Every day carry knives

  6. Florida concealed carry permit holders can carry automatic knives concealed, in addition to firearms. This is a favorite Gerber auto that I've carried for years. I don't like the partial serrated blade, but they don't make a model without it.
  7. Quote: Originally Posted by CWitek What he said. I think that the one I use is a Manley--it's the tubular brass one that has a 50-pound scale on one side and a 25-kilo on the other, with a circular plastic slide that will tell you where the drag slipped. Bought it in the mid-1980s and it's always worked well and, obviously, has endured. I know many an IGFA record seeker that uses that scale to set their drag.
  8. There are days I fish this inlet here in Florida and I am the only one fishing a bucktail. Letting it "dead-drift" as described earlier, or standard slow crawl right off the bottom with a slight bump here-and-there, to a fast retrieve with hard jigs for Mackeral. Sometimes I am the only one catching fish as well. I used a white one-ounce bucktail more than any other lure. PS - all the guys out at the end of the jetty are fishing with clams on the bottom.
  9. Lol, that is funny!!
  10. Quote: Originally Posted by BrianBM If you have a big fish at boatside and he takes off, so what? Just let him run and continue to fight the fish. If I had to fish a 20 lb. drag, which is more than I've ever used for partyboat tuna under 100 lb., I'd want to do so with at least 50 lb. line. Unless you're using IGFA rated lines for a shot at a record, 50 lb. mono is probably going to test out at 80 lb., and 50 lb. braid .... God only knows, but it's not going to be a real 50, it'll be higher too. I've never seen mono that overtested its stated pound-test rating, by more than a pound or two, and that is rare. If you have that kind of mono, its a manufacturer defect. The only difference between ANDE IGFA and ANDE standard 130# mono is that the IGFA is warrantied to NOT test at more than 130#. But the standard 130# ANDE will most likely test right on or a hair lower.
  11. Quote: Originally Posted by BrianBM I can live happily with none, and eventually - like, five years? - go to one at 36". In the real world, where campaign contributions count for a lot more, a slot limit of one fish 24" - 28" is more likely, and might make more sense since bigger fish carry far more eggs. That is how Snook is regulated in Florida. The slot is 28"-32" with one allowed per day. Under 28 aren't sexually mature, over 32" are the breeders. The slot limits the population that is available for harvest. But unintended side effects do occur. For instance we have an 18"-27" slot for Redfish (Red Drum) here in Florida. Fish that are in excess of 27" drastically outnumber the slot fish. I've seen days when fish approaching 40" is all that is caught. NO keepers. That is ok with me - I haven't taken a fish out of the water in years.
  12. Quote: Originally Posted by tikon5123 I been using Power Pro 20LB, I read somewhere that when we tie our line to lure the line braking LB drops 20%, so this means 20LB line that is tie to 16LB is the real braking point. and also drag power do change by how much line is left on your spool. (principle of leverage) full line = weaker drag low on line = stronger drag If your spool diameter is changing that much during a fight you are a lucky man! I have had close to 300 yds of 20lb test out on a Tarpon that ran like hell on me, and I tell a big difference in the drags operation - so there is some truth to your statement.
  13. Quote: Originally Posted by bigoneslurk i thought the standard rule was you set the drag a 1/3 the line breaking strength 1/3 is on the high range. The all-tackle IGFA world record holders usually set the drag at 25%. Set the drag and DONT touch it. There are no instances that need you to adjust the drag knob while fishing IMO - your hand can provide resistance to the spool to temporarily to achieve a higher drag setting.
  14. Quote: Originally Posted by giggyfish For a strictly plugging reel I have a conflict 5500 on a TFO 10' 6" rod and its a sweet little setup for about 300 total. Insert a battle or battle II and you wouldn't be unhappy with the lighter weight after a long session. I own a few shimano and daiwa's and I like them as well so it's really just a matter of taste and how much do you want to spend. Just remember to compare reels in the same price range to determine what is for you. I believe Conflict makes a 4000, 5000, 6000, and 8000. I don't recall a 5500 size. I have the 5000 Conflict on a Penn Battalion 9 foot rod. Balances well. Used for larger plugs and bucktails. The conflict in 5000 and above sizes are all metal - rotor, case, foot, etc. 4000 and smaller have a composite/plastic rotor.