Ed White

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About Ed White

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing, and fishing, and plugbuilding
  • What I do for a living:
    Truck equipment wrench.

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Right where you want to fish!
  1. I can be helpful, when the mood hits me. But I can't type, just read thru my post and I'm embarrassed. Let the chips fly!
  2. Nice eye, you paint that?
  3. Somebody say stand up bass? Lake Street Dive- Seventeen
  4. Been there, done that, didn't like it! And yeah, having the fish attached adds just that little extra something.
  5. To check that the dupe is square to the lathe, mount a scrap piece of wood and set the cutter to make a light cut. Lock down the cutter in this position and use the handwheel to make the cut down the length of the piece. When the dupe is square to the lathe, the piece will be the same diameter at both ends. Also, you mentioned a little play in the dupe, if all the fasteners are tight, then the dupe itself has setscrews to adjust the freeplay between the base and the carriage.
  6. Starting with the top pic, the 2 longish pins top left are follower pins, the run along a template to copy the contour on the plug. The 2 bent pieces.will hold any center drilled items that you might want to copy. Not much use.as most plugs are not center drilled. The 4 thumbscrews hold a template into the slot on the dupe. The 2 3/8" washers are for the brackets that hold the dupe to the bed of the lathe. The wingnut/threaded rod and spring go on the lever wihich.moves the cutter in and.out. The spring and wingnut My dupe mounted on the lathe, with a template mounted. Your second pic shows the posts that the dupe mounts to, if you look closely at mine you'll see where I've added a.lo Kim g collar to each post, so that, once the tool bright is set where you want it, you can tighten the sets crew on the collars, and remove and install the dupe back in the same place e every time. Pic of the lathe with the dupe removed Another pic showing the collars on the mounting post.The cutter should be set at the centerline of the piece, or just barely lower, never higher. There is an excellent replaceable carbide insert cutter available to fit your dupe, if you get tired of sharpening. Also shows the thumbscrews holding the template in place.
  7. One of the things that makes this forum so much fun to hang around, is the free flow of information by the members. That paint work is awesome looking, rollincoal.
  8. When I was a kid that was the Homestead Restaurant, had quite a few Sunday dinners in there. Learned to swim in the saltwater pool, which is still there with trees growing thru it, about 75 yards west of the pavilion. Lucky that sucker went up today, after some rain, and not earlier this week with all the wind we had. I like OG, but the place is a firetrap, old wooden buildings packed in tight.
  9. Hand grenade into the stern should sort that nonsense out.
  10. There is a great soft bait making specific forum at ******* can't post the link, I'm probably skirting the edge of the rules already, but there is a wealth of plastic/mold/supply info there as well.
  11. Yeah, tearout is one of the reasons why I'd leave some extra material and sand down to size....I turn everything at max rpm and try not to get too greedy with the depth of cut, and always try to make the last pass before sanding a light cut. I sand with 80 first, then right to 220, till I have no tearout left. Sharp tools help, the HSS cutter that comes with the Vega is fine when sharp, but requires occasional sharpening. There are carbide cutters available to fit your duplicator, as well, they are scary sharp, and long lasting. Some of the swimmiest plugs I've made came from wood that I salvaged from an old redwood picnic table. Never know where stuff might pop up.
  12. No part of soft plastic bait making should be done anywhere near where you cook your food. It's basically a bunch of chemicals in plastic bottles that you mix up, heat up, and yes, occasionally burn, so keep it out of the house. Maybe the basement, if you have good ventilation, but the fumes are not friendly at all. A $50 Walmart microwave and some Pyrex cups will work fine for most of your needs
  13. Red Cedar turns nice, but is very soft, and sanding reduces the diameter quickly when trying to sand to final size. If you are starting by buying cedar balusters, look for some with tight grain, it will help to keep your plug round.Turn your blanks slightly oversized, then sand to finish size. Red Cedar dust makes my allergies go off the chart, so I don't use it much, but Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC), Eastern White cedar, Basswood, all will work as well. Something that a lot of guys do with the soft woods is to seal them using a 2 part epoxy (Envirotex Lite, we call it Etex) after they are turned, drilled, and sanded, the epoxy firms up the outer layer of the wood a lot, and after a light sanding makes a great base for your primer layer. A search here for the term "epoxy sealing" should turn up a lot of info.
  14. Nice shape.
  15. No weights Mark? Or hidden under the paint? It doesn't humpback?