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About qecfly

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  1. For the most part all you really need is access down to the water. Once there you are allowed to fish on any beach up to the high tide mark. You may get hassled but you are well within your rights to be there. I've done this in several places on the Cape. I assume you have a car so there are plenty of place out towards Chatham (bay and ocean side) with beach access.
  2. Ignore the morons! I don't fish the canal but I can confirm there are stripers in there..... Nice fish!
  3. Plus: It casts a mile and you feel everything. Minus: Cuts your hands easily in lighter line weights with wet hands Need to use a leader.
  4. I have Ripcord Pro on one reell. I think it is 30lb. I've only used it about 10 times. All saltwater with a 25lb mono leader. So far it has been fine. I also have reels with Powerpro (30lb) and JBraid (15 and 30lb). I plan to switch back and forth all summer and see how them compare. I had a strange break off yesterday a couple of feet from the leader with the JBraid (15lb) but not sure why. In the past I only used Powerpro which I never really had any issues with. I replace the leader to braid knot (albright) at least once a day if I fish all day. That is usually the failure point for me. One other potential issue is line wrapping around the guides which can result in a break off or worse. I still use mono for fresh water and for light saltwater lures where I don't want a mono leader connection. Usually 12lb mono in those situations.
  5. Agreed on the big flies. You did not mention if you are fishing in a river or still water. If in a river then long cast probably are not required and the fly size becomes less of an issue. I don't have a favorite but I went out with a guide last year and we threw flies that were about 7" long and articulated. Seemed like the size and placement was more important than the actual pattern. Accuracy was necessary but I never had to cast more than 30' or so. I used a 8' 10wt. Perfect tool for the job. Had a blast landing about 6 and loosing a few others.
  6. I assume you mean fly blank. If you are looking for the ultimate then "cheap" may be a relative term. I think CTS has something (talk to Herb) and I personally am using a Meiser blank. However much of that 45 pages was devoted to fishing in very windy conditions. I don't do that. When the wind picks up I switch to a spinning rod. Most two handed blanks on the market are geared towards spey type cast not over head. However many can do both. My Meiser 5/6/7 11' blank can do both. It is so light I have no problem casting single handed as well as needed. Give Bob (R. Meiser) a call and he will provide you with lots of information.
  7. Mike, I completely agree. I wish single handed rods would adopt the grain window concept of many two handed rods. For many modern rods the rating system is nearly useless. It is not a big deal if you own a lot of lines but if you don't you can spend a lot of money figuring things out.
  8. If you were buying your first rod and only rod then I would go with an 8wt. Since you already have a 9wt I would go with a fast 7wt. As my casting has improved I find that I don't use my 9wts much anymore for saltwater fishing. I mostly use a fast 7wt for stripers and blues. If I know I have a shot at big stipers or blues then I will use a 9wt. For salmon and steelhead in a river I agree with a previous post that suggested an 11' 7 or 8wt. That rod can be used in saltwater or lake fishing as well. You can cast overhead or spey type depending on the situation.
  9. I crush all of mine as well. Flies, trebles, singles, jigs. All of them with the exception of circle hooks when using bait and that is to keep the bait on not the fish. Never felt like I was at a disadvantage. At least once a season me or someone with me buries a hook (usually a treble) in their body somewhere. Barbless hooks just slide right out and you are back fishing. There is no question in my mind that it is easier on the fish.
  10. Lamson. You don't need a Litespeed. All of the Lamson reels have the same drag system except for their new big game saltwater reel. You can often find closeouts on Sierra Trading post. I own several and the only issue i've had is a couple of clutch bearing which Lamson quickly replaces. I normally care a spare bearing or a spare reel just in case. When the bearing fails the reel is useless. Free spools. Rinse them after use and enjoy.
  11. I've caught bunker on deadly dicks (small ones) and small rubber swim baits. They fight surprisingly well. That same day we hit macs with a fly rod for over an hour. Bunker too. Small silver clousers. No stripers or blues anywhere but acres of bait!
  12. Not sure how they will hold up but if you are willing to replace the guides at some point go ahead and use it. If you already replaced the grips then it does not sound like you are trying to keep the rod original. Replacing them yourself is pretty easy and I don't think it will be too expensive if you have to pay someone else to do it.
  13. Plenty of American made fly rod manufactures around including Orvis, Sage, T&T, Winston, Scott etc. I am less familiar with spinning/casting blanks but NFC, St Croix, some Loomis, Calstar are made here. Rodgeeks blanks are made in Mexico along with the lower end St Croix blanks. St Croix is designed here but some are made in Mexico.
  14. Nice looking boat. The previous owner of mine cut down the transom to use a short shaft motor. That ultimately lead to the demise of my transom. The guys was a total bonehead. My late spring early summer project is to repaint the exterior. I am just about finished sanding off all of the bottom paint. So far i've replaced the motor, all of the wiring and put a Garmin 840xs fishfinder/gps on it. I have another, bigger boat but I love the Hobie.
  15. There is nothing wrong with using a high quality marine plywood to this fix. That is a fact. Are there better alternatives? Yes if you have access and can afford the extra cost. Keep in mind that the transom on these boats is a 5 layer sandwich: Inner glass skin, balsa, glass, balsa and finally the outer skin. The balsa between the glass layers is 3/4". These is not much room to work. I looked into a pourable and concluded it was not a good choice for my boat. Once I got the outer skin off it was clear that the damage was limited to the outer balsa layer and about 6" down on the inner balsa layer. I ground out the outer balsa and used a drill to remove the top 6" of the inner balsa. Water can get trapped in a area underneath the rear seats and the glass between the balsa layers. If you do this work drill a couple of holes in that layer and make sure there is no water. I epoxied in marine plywood (left over from a wooden boat build I am working on) on the outer and a 6" piece on the inner. Epoxied back on the outer skin. Faired it, painted it, hung a new Etec 60hp on it. Done. If 30 years from now it needs to be replaced then it will not be my problem. Honestly I would be surprised if you transom is completely shot. You might have some rot around the scuppers and the drains but that can be fixed without a major rebuild