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About HillTop


  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Kayaking, Fly Fishing, Basketball, beginner rod builder, Fly Reel Design.
  • What I do for a living:
    Manufacture Precision Metal Stampings & Components & Assemblies

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  1. Nice video Ray. My first ever Striper was caught on a worm fly that I tied during this program 3 or 4 years ago. Dave pointed my out to the same point in the opening of your video and I nailed two or three nice fish before the guys around me started catching. I still remember the adrenalin rush of this first Striper as the bass were sipping worms all around us. As exciting as a June may fly hatch with brookies and landlocks all around the canoe. You folks run a great program. Thx, HT
  2. Dan, What's the status of the club you started and are you meeting during the summer months (many do and have outings)? Have you established an e-mail list system is so I'll PM mine along for updates as would like to make it to a meeting or two at some point. Anyway, best of luck on your goals. Nice to have a sense of accomplishment while crossing items off a goal oriented To-Do list. HT
  3. Maybe Phil swift can use this SBS to make. New Flex Seal commercial
  4. Google is my friend By Tim Surgent One of the most versatile patterns I tie and the only pattern that I can completely say was entirely my design. Even that wouldn't be 100% true, I used the silicone techniques learned from some of Bob Popovic's patterns like the Silicone Mullet. This fly has not just taken a multitude of different species, but it's done so when most other patterns have failed to do so...that makes it special in my book. Personally, I've caught stripers, weakfish, bluefish, fluke, sundials, false albacore, bonito, Spanish mackerel, star gazers, and sea-run cut throat's on it...and not just one or two, but tons of each! I just made them available to the public about 12 months ago and hundreds of folks now can't be without them. Materials: 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0 white bucktail - non flaring hair preferred peacock herl pearl flashabou or crystal flash silver mylar tubing for body silicone Photoflo 1/8"-3/16" prism eyes, silver w/black pupil Start the thread just forward of the bend of a 34007 hook, size 1 to 3/0. I prefer white or clear monofilament thread. The monofilament doesn't make as neat a finished head as the white thread, but it does look nice. Wrap a small, fairly straight bunch of white bucktail in at this point. Make sure to keep the hair on top of the hook and tie it so as not to flair the hair. Trim the butt ends flush and wrap over them so as to not interfere with the mylar tubing for the body. These hair should be should be about double the length of the flat part of the hook. *You can either add two pieces of flash on each side of the tail now or you can add them just prior to the peacock herl step. Take a proper length piece of silver mylar tubing with the cotton core removed and slide it over the hook so the rear of it reaches slightly past the thread wraps for the bucktail. Carefully make 4 or 5 wraps over the tubing as shown in the photo to the right. Whip finish at that point and cut the thread. Restart the thread at the head of the fly on top of the mylar tubing. You will twist the mylar tubing in doing this, just twist it back once you get 4 or 5 wraps on it to hold it in place. Trim the mylar that will extend beyond the thread taking care to never let your materials clutter up the eye of the hook. This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. Keep all materials on the top! This is a full view of the fly up to this point. Note that all materials are on top of the shank and the head is neat and the eye clear. That's all important. One of the keys to this fly is that the shiny silver mylar body shows through the silicone unobstructed...just like it does in a real spearing. For an even more realistic spearing, you can pull and shape the mylar body before tying it...but that's an advanced step, don't worry, they'll eat this one fine! ;-) If you were looking to add another color to the fly, add it here, before the herl! I like olive sometimes...just a little. I suppose yellow, pink, chartreuse, blue, or green would work. All set for the peacock herl. Now for the peacock herl or topping. I have always used and will likely always use real peacock herl. Yes, it's probably one of the most frail materials regularly used. It's also the one that is absolutely magic. Peacock herl isn't one color, it's many - from blue to olive to metallic green to drab green and brown...and when wet, the tiny fibers come to life. I tie 90% of my flies with peacock herl and I've seen many flies stop working once the herl is gone. Lay 6-10 pieces of herl, somewhat evened at the tip end but not so much that it loses the taper. Tie them in on top of the flash or bucktail...keep them on top of the hook. Clip the butts of the herl neatly. Wrap over the butts with the thread to make a nice neat head, whip finish and cut the thread...this one's ready for the silicone! All done tying, now for the silicone! **There are many types of silicone out there, I prefer DAP or Cinch....but Cinch is an expensive aerosol, DAP is fine. Working with silicone is not that difficult...it's not easy, but it's also not difficult. You must use something to keep the silicone from sticking to your fingers, if it sticks to your fingers, you'll never get the proper shape. I prefer Photoflo, it's available in any camera/photography supply store. I think it's about $8-$10 a bottle. Don't let that scare you, I've had my original 16oz bottle for about a dozen years now, it lasts. Dish soap and water will work I'm told, but for less than $1/year, I'll take the Photoflo! So, you put the Photoflo in a jar large enough to stick a couple fingers in so you can reapply when needed...and now you start applying the silicone to the fly. I generally put the silicone right on the fly as shown here. A little silicone on one side and the top... Then I'll put some silicone on the other side of the fly as shown here. Then dip your fingers, I dip my pointer and middle finger and then rub those together with the thumb on that hand...those three fingers are all you will use. The first thing I do is lift the herl some and then squeeze the silicone from both sides of the fly into that area...then put the herl down and begin shaping the spearing. This is where you'll need the trial and error lesson. You're trying to make this thing look like a spearing from the sides, from the bottom, and from the front. Shaping it is up to you. I don't let much silicone get beyond the hook bend, just a little to help with fouling on the cast. and a little silicone on this side.... Here's the finished shape that I shoot for. This one actually is far from perfect, but the general shape is good. At this point, stick an eye on each side and poke it slightly into the silicone with something sharp like your scissors or bodkin. I like my eyes placed just behind where the thread wraps are visible under the silicone and slightly above center. Dip your fingers again, lightly, and smooth over the silicone covering the eyes. Now smooth the whole fly again...you may even have to reshape it some, depending on how well the whole eye application went. That's it, you're all done, now keep it away from the bluefish if you can! Now it's time for the eyes!
  5. Does anyone else get the "Link Not Found" message when clicking on the SOL link in Gilbey's post at the top of this thread? HT
  6. All, Thank very much for your nice compliments. This was my first attempt at a shrimp fly and I guess I'm hard on myself but I wasn't overly happy with the results and plan to change up a few things on my next attempt. I think the silly legs are out of proportion and I'll try something a little smaller in diameter next time. maybe try to make it a little more translucent as well. FYI for the mouth area between the silly legs I tied in a small amount of Cortland mono braid and picked it apart with a bodkin and I did the same for the under legs, using 50lb Gudebrod braided mono, where the fibers are a little larger in diameter than the Cortland braid. I made up my own shrimp foils by printing a pattern on our color copier using overhead transparencies paper. (mylar sheet). I've got a number of different colors to try for my next go around. Salvadore, Never fished shrimp flies so not sure what is the best hook size. I wouldn't think that a 4 would be an issue as one night last spring when our group was fishing with the @The Fisherman he was having great success with very small flies about that size, with bass slurping on the surface and assuming now they may have been shrimp. HT
  7. My feeble attempt at shrimp flies last year. Forgot t to use them as they got buried in my gear. I believe I tied them on a size 2 hook. Maybe this spring. HT
  8. @flyrad10, to answer your previous question it's the PowerPro Hollow Ace product that I'm using. Yes I've read quite a few of Max Garth's posts on the subject over the years. I'm not overly concerned with the grit aspect as 1, the dilution of Liquid Fusion coating fills some of the materials pores, 2, I have SIC guides on my rod, and lastly, I unfortunately don't get to fish that many days during the season so any guide erosion is going to be minimal if at all. I built my own rod so if I have to I'll replace the guides. This is something I've always wanted to try as I like to tinker and I wanted it for use with a sink setup and since I'm going to be purchasing either a fast sink head or some of the T17 material to experiment with why not go the full monty and get this out of my system. Will be doing it in spite of the ridicule from one of my spring fishing companions. HT
  9. No you're right and I'm wrong. Not mono core just mono. Has some neat qualities but after using it for awhile I liked it less and less. Maybe I need to give it another try. They say virtually no memory but I found if I didn't stretch it enough I didn't like the way it behaved. Hey, once in awhile even a blind squirrel finds a nut. I keep trying things and once in a blue moon I hit on a good one I'd be a long shot in Vegas though. Can't have another kid (tubes tied), too old to adopt, I already work 55 hrs a week so I guess it has to be special brownies for me. Can you bake a batch for this spring? HT
  10. Mike Techno Devices are here to stay, and by the way, bread and jam are out! Too much Gluten and too much Sugar. You have to get with the times my friend
  11. Thanks for the heads-up on the meeting....... Now you probably understand why I don't sleep at night...... HT
  12. Dan, I'm experimenting with a custom running line right now. I like the OPST Laser line for how well it shoots but have had some difficulty with it easily tangling and knotting up. It's mono core and should be stretched before use but I'm usually lazy and don't stretch it like I should but it's got some body to it and it flys through the guides better than a conventional running line. My custom experiment, done on only on a couple feet of material so far, is taking 20lb monofilament folding it over and twisting it like is done to make twisted leaders (similar to furled leaders). This method takes the set out of the mono and the mono tends to want to lay nice and flat/straight. Also by twisting the mono it tends not to take much of a set after being spooled on your reel. Really nice for leaders too. I then take the twisted mono and using it as the core in for 200lb Spectra Braid, (by PowerPro), I'll stuff the braid with this twisted mono. It fits nicely inside the Spectra Braid which has near zero stretch as it's selling point. Then I just smooth out the Spectra, whip a couple of loops on either end and then I coat the entire braid with diluted Liquid Fusion penetrate and to seal the surface (fill the pores to minimize grit accumulation and keep it smooth). I love the initial sample I did. It has some nice rigidity to it yet it's flexible enough to be somewhere near the Laser line in structure but tends to want to lay straight due to the twisted mono. The finished diameter is about 40 mils. (0.040") Comparable to many commercial running lines. Planning on making up a full length runner this weekend of ~ 100 feet to see how it casts. The other idea I played with for this setup is after I finish the line per the above, I then twisted about 15 feet back on itself in a like fashion to making the twisted mono, in essence doubling the diameter and using this new 15 foot end as my "handling" line, (ie: connect this end to my shooting head), since I strip my shooting head in to just outside my tip top this will give me a more manageable line for casting, ie: a better grip (due to the larger diameter), and tactile feel (braid is now twisted, having a textured feel ), for handling the line prior to shooting my next cast. If I can get this done this weekend and it looks promising and if I can find the time to also get over to your meeting next Wednesday I'll bring it along. HT
  13. Okay, another question regarding fishing deep and needing fast sinking lines to bounce flies on or near the bottom. When selecting a line setup does one take into consideration the weight of a fly when said flies intended to be fished are very large and/or heavily weighted ? ie: Should the grain weight of the fly be taken into consideration with the grain weight of the shooting head when talking about cast-ability and keeping grain weight near an optimum weight for your rod "sweet" spot ? Or, in other words, go with a lighter line to compensate for throwing heavier than run of the mill flies like Deceivers, etc. HT
  14. Yeah thought about buying some T material to play with but can't get the grains to length ratio I'm looking for and like the idea of the heavier UST lines that have some taper to them thinking they would cast better. Being able to trim them a little to fine tune is appealing as well. I think worth the investment to experiment with. HT
  15. Mike, I suspect you know the stretch of water we fish that might be fun to bounce a crab along. That water is pretty deep at the beginning of the trek but thins out in some places to maybe 5 or 6 feet deep. Current can rip pretty well there and as evidenced by some of the sand pockets you see at low tide thinking possibly a good spot to pick up a few fish with crab flies. HT