Yudi

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About Yudi

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    surf, duh
  • What I do for a living:
    I is a Mechanical Engineer

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    CT

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  1. 24/7 was once Gag's. He sold his wood lure business and the designs. The business has transferred hands a few times now I think, but the basic designs all still look to be pretty much the same, at least with the needles. They are top water, floating types for the most part (7" 1.75 oz, and 9" 2oz.), but i think there is one of the larger ones with some additional weight ~2.5 oz I think.
  2. The action and feel of the 1 piece and 2 piece lamiglas gsb's are very different. I'm a 1 piece guy, but if you liked your 2 piece, why not, that's a good deal, no? If you didn't really like it, then that's a different situation. Lami provides a nice product in the 1 pc. versions now-a-days that isn't cheap, per se, but quite affordable for a pretty capable piece of equipment. You can spend more and get better, of course, but it'll do you well.
  3. Tica 7', is it 1 piece? When you say bad top guide, do you mean tip, or first guide in from tip.?
  4. A while back the Japan versions changed the main gear from a cold forged gear to a zinc cast gear in the spheros. If you really want the faster gear, the 'gosa SW has the faster gear, cold forged. The main differences between the two reels, other than the one $2 bearing and the drags, is that the spheros is the PG type gear and the 'Gosa is the HG type gear. The spheros sw is really a nice real for striper and inshore, you don't need the drag of the gosa unless you are fishing pelagic. The PG gear is the right speed for typical condition striper fishing. That said, if you need the faster gear, like many on the canal like to be able to lift that jig off the bottom when your at the end of a drift, then spend the extra $50 for it. You can always slow down the crank speed, but it's really tiresome to try and speed it up. It's probably a mistake to with a Spheros HG, IMHO.
  5. you beat me to it!
  6. Well, it all comes down to the speed the lure is travelling when you let go of the line. That's all it has, a velocity. So, if you can swing a longer rod then you will achieve a higher velocity. Angular velocity = velocity / radius. So, if you can swing the rod through the arc at the same angular velocity and the radius (rod length) is greater, then the linear velocity is greater. But, can you swing the longer rod at the same angular velocity. If you could, then the simple answer is you would use a 100 foot rod and cast miles. So, you cannot make everything equal. To swing a longer rod at the same speed takes more effort from the angler as the mass is now greater and hanging a farther distance away. It all gets even more complicated than this, as there isn't just the one arc (rod length). You have that arc, the arc of the bent rod and it's energy storage potential, and the arc of the leader drop. It's almost all moot unless you are casting a tin as the most limiting thing that brings the lure back to earth (water) is aerodynamic drag. The most important things are the blank design, for how it will unload, and having its loading requirements paired closely to what you are throwing, and the technique of the caster. I routinely cast a redfin much farther with my 9' rod than my 10' rod, because my 9' is a 1-3 oz rod and the 10' is a 2-5 oz. rod. However, if I put a 3 oz. spook on, the 9' falls much shorter than the 10' as it's in the sweet spot for the loading of the 10'. You'll get more out of your cast if you have a rod that matches the weight you are thowing and use a motion that loads the rod. It shouldn't take a lot of effort.
  7. Hmmm, To me you would choose the rod that makes sense for the lures you will be throwing. You need to punch them into the wind, so you don't want to pick a rod that is limited by the lure choice. I.e. I'm throwing in the 3 oz range on average, so a 1201L would be maxed out, it can do it, but won't punch it, but the 1201M would punch it. You are probably not going to be able to swim to rocks like you can in normal conditions, so a longer rod might be a good idea (i.e. a 132). Two reasons, a longer potential cast, but also keeping that line out of the water can be important as your sweeps can be furious. You can cast side arm to keep the tip low and out of the wind some. Not sure a shorter stick is really going to change things much, but lowering that tip and casting with a lower trajectory can help. Harder to control the cast for sure, but you can get some decent casts in this way.
  8. Guys, that rod has been around for a long time before Skinner. Mckenna also uses that rod and loves it, he had an article in SJ I believe about the 'Montauk eel special'. Here is Skinner's original article on it. It isn't his idea but he did make it popular again. I use one that is 9'6" which has approx 3" off the tip like XBMX suggests, which ups the tip tube size by one and let's you more readily throw heavier stuff. Around these parts that's a Pat Abate Special. Mckenna has tried that as well, and went back to his Montauk eel special. If you don't need or a want a 10' and your looking for something around 9' and very parabolic, it is a very good option. Although I would suggest an NGC/hybrid build instead of COF. By John Skinner One of the favorite rods in my arsenal is a 9-footer that I built last year under the guidance of custom rod builder John Schauer of Fish Stix. I searched for such a rod for several years, but couldnt quite find one that met my specifications until I hooked up with John. I knew exactly what I wanted. I preferred a 9-footer because it would be easy to fish with and land fish while deep wading and rock hopping. It would need to comfortably cast a 6-inch Bomber or three-quarter-ounce bucktail. It should also do an adequate job of working a pencil popper. Most importantly, it had to handle eels in the 3- to 4-ounce range, and needed to have enough stopping power to easily subdue 25-pound-plus fish. I also preferred that the rod wouldnt overpower fish in the 5- to 10-pound range. I checked out dozens of rods in tackle shops and at shows, but couldnt find what I was looking for. I was beginning to believe that my specifications were too broad to be satisfied by one outfit. When I met John Schauer at a CCA Surf Seminar, he introduced me to a 9-footer he called the Montauk Eel Rod. I knew immediately that my search would soon be over. One of the first things I noticed was that it wiggled in the middle. This was due to a taper that was slower than the other 9-foot rods Id tried. The tip was also three sizes larger than the tip on my stout-feeling Lamiglas 108 1M, yet the diameter of the rod blank was smaller from the largest guide down to the butt. With a couple of simple modifications, I had exactly what I wanted. Before I begin the building instructions, I need say that I am not a professional rod builder. I can find the spine on a blank, put cork wrap on a handle, and wrap guides, and the result is usually a functional tool that is unlikely to win any beauty contests. A professional with a better eye for technical detail may very well look at my guide selection and spacings and point out the design flaws. Thats fine. My goal was to build this rod with durable components, but minimum weight. After my first trip, I knew Id accomplished what I set out to do, and after more than a full season of use, I wouldnt change a thing. During my rod search, I tried hard to meet my needs with a blank made by Lamiglas. While other fine manufacturers also make surf blanks, I grew up using rods based on their blanks, and have a high degree of confidence in Lamiglas products. Having already ruled out all of the 9-foot Lamiglas blanks for this particular situation, I was confused when I saw their label on Johns eel rod. Apparently, John also recognized the need for such a blank, and created it himself by taking a hacksaw to the popular 10-foot Lamiglas GSB120 1L. By the way, the 11-foot graphite version (the GSB132 1L) is really the same blank. The 10-foot model is cut down from the 11-footer by Lamiglas, and if you take out a caliper, you can find the GSB120 1L hiding within the GSB132 1L. To trim the blank, John cut 1 foot off the butt of the 10-footer. To do this without splintering the blank, make a couple of tight wraps of masking tape in the area where the cut is to be made, mark the cutting line on the tape, then use a sharp hacksaw to make the cut. This is not a cheap rod blank, and I was a touch nervous about making the cut, so I started by cutting 6 inches off first, just to convince myself that the cut would be clean. It looked pretty good at 9.5-feet, but I went ahead and took off the other 6 inches to get it to the desired 9-foot length. Be aware that Lamiglas states they will not honor their warranty if breakage is due to a modification. Given my many years of excellent experience with their products, I was willing to take this chance. Before I met with John, I would never have chosen single-foot guides for an application where I knew Id be trying to horse big bass around rocks. I honestly believed those light guides would bend, and possibly collapse, under the pressure. John convinced me that this wasnt the case. Single-foot guides are highly flexible and can stand the stress. As for choosing between aluminum oxide and the much more expensive silicon carbide guides, no rod builder had ever convinced me that the latter made a significant difference in performance, and my own experience was consistent with this. I settled on the aluminum-oxide ring guides, using one double-foot Fuji BSVLG gathering guide, followed by Fuji single-foot BLVLG guides. The rod John showed me had five guides, plus the top. His guide sizes were 50, 40, 25, 16, and 12. Since I was looking to minimize the weight of the finished product, this was a good start for the guide configuration. I would be using only braided Superlines on this rod, so I knew that I could get away with a 40 mm ringas a gathering guide, because braided lines come off the spool in a tighter spiral than the big, slapping, monofilament loops that leave a spool. I also felt that I could do away with a guide, and use four instead of five. I understand that professionals would employ whats called a stress-distribution test to confirm that this was enough guides to keep the line from dipping below the arc of the blank on a heavy cast. I simply chose what looked to be reasonable spacings and test-casted the rod to make sure I was happy. I placed the guides on the outside arc when I spined the rod. In other words, I built it to load easier on the cast and deliver more power on a hookset. My guide configuration, measured from the top ring back is: 16 mm 9 inches, 20 mm 20 inches, 30 mm 34 inches, and 40 mm 52 inches. Remember that the 40 mm guide is the double-foot Fuji BSVLG, while the remaining guides are single-foot BLVLG guides. The top is a BPLT16 (16 mm ringsize). Tops are designated by their ring, as well as tube size. For the GSB120, Lamiglassizes the tip at 10, or 10/64ths of an inch, so the appropriate Fuji top is the BPLT16-10. Fuji also makes 20 mm ring tops in both aluminum oxide as silicon carbide. This adds a little additional tip weight, but also promotes smoother casts. It doesnt matter if the tops ring (20) is a size larger than that of the first guide (16). In an effort to further minimize weight and preserve flexibility, I kept my wraps short approximately one-half inch beyond the guide feet. I used a single layer, 29-inch cork tape wrap for the handle. The finished product weighs only 9.5 ounces. A Van Staal 200 balances this outfit perfectly. For this application targeting large fish and getting the reel dunked as I climb on rocks and get hit by waves Id rather not consider another reel. But if pressed for another choice, Id look at aPenn 560. I spool up with 30-pound-test Spiderwire Stealth. The rod has performed wonderfully for me. With a properly set drag, it can easily whip fish over 30 pounds, but it still allows smaller fish to make a good accounting of themselves. Its by far the easiest eel-throwing rod Ive ever used. Im also thrilled that its a comfortable and effective plugging rod for lures in the .75- to 2.5-ounce range, and can handle 3-ounce plugs in a pinch. I wanted to write this article soon after I pressed the rod into service, but didntwant to chance impacting Johns sales. Hes now retiring to the fishy waters near Sebastion Inlet, Florida, and I thank him dearly for the knowledge hes imparted on me, and for allowing me to share it with our readers. Edited just now by Yudi spelling
  9. If you remain fixated on only the Danny Style metal lip, then you have a lot of good info. A couple of generic things: A lip, whether metal or plastic is an aerodynamic drag and a lift surface. It will cause a reduction in casting distance due to drag, but also tend to wobble and twist due to the lift of the aero/hydro dynamic surface. Center weighted plugs (i.e. Danny surface swimmer) will wobble on the cast as the center of mass is in the center of the plug. Larger profile plugs have more drag than a smaller profile plug (for the same weight), so you will lose casting distance. Denser plugs will cast the best (smaller profile and heavier). And smoother plugs (no lips or flags) will cast furthest (i.e. a SS needle). Typically, the lighter a plug can be the more natural it will swim, but it must be heavy enough to hit the strike zone (distance and depth) as needed. Think about fly fishing, very, very light offering and so very realistic, but hard to get to the strike zone (in some areas). So we make trades. And that is part of the art of becoming a good surf caster. There are also factors in what the lure is trying to emulate. A Danny, for instance, imho is something that looks more like and injured or lame bait fish struggling on top, which is an easy prey. A conrad or musso maple, might emulate other fish like juvenile tog that are swimming around deeper and not injured. These lures, while large in profile and still have a lip, will be considerably heavier and cast much better than a Danny surface swimmer would. But it all depends on the scenario, what is the right lure for your situation. Often distance is meaningless, at least up here in the North East. Hope that helps, and it is just my opinion, not gospel.
  10. I used a black darter, yellow darter, parrot darter, and bone c10 redfin and saw virtually no difference between them. I switched to yellow and parrot when the moon came out from clouds, as the bite had slowed, but as time progressed over the evening I realized it was really just waves of feeding. I could sit on any of the colors and I would start connecting again. The body of fish moved around, and I had enough time to see that it didn't matter in this case. So, sometimes we can be fooled into thinking things, when it is just happenstance. Having a long window of opportunity is a great learning experience, where the short windows can fool you into a false sense of security. It's all part of the game we play, and it is what makes it so much fun. It isn't just catchin'....it's figuring it out, that's fishin'!
  11. My strategy is typically the same as Baldwin's. I'll add that in dirty or stained water I will go with dark.
  12. Typically, the ratings are meaningless, especially between brands, but even between models. You really cannot go by that rating.
  13. If I follow, they all rise, so they all have a nose up attitude when reeling. But if weighted to sit horizontal, that is minimized and the rise on reel is slower. Pauses and twitches allow the needle to stay low or subsurface, and the twitch creates more of a sweep instead of a nose up movement.
  14. floaters can be good in calmer water around boulder fields. Gibbs, as Chef said is a good 'floater'. It does actually sink but very slowly, so it gets back on top very quickly. Probably as close as you get to a true floater from any off the shelf model. Sinking and keeping things subsurface is what I typically find works better. But it is not just sinking. It's how fast does it sink, but also how does it sink. I like needles that sink in a horizontal position best. Most sink tail first. I find that when you pause or twitch, this presentation is better than one where the tail tips down. If the tail drops down, I think you lose some opportunity on that pause as the presentation isn't right. They do still work, once you start reeling again. But ones weighted to drop horizontally, those tend to generate strikes on the pause. All needles rise to the top, even fast sinkers, so you have to stop and pause to let them sink to keep them low, so it is important how they sink, imho.
  15. true, still not the best casting lure, but a 1201L will cast it quite well compared to a 1201M because the L will load and the M won't. Definitely a very important consideration.