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  1. If you fish once a year, recoil guides would probably last for quite some time . If you fish often as in once or twice a week I wouldn't waste thread, time epoxy and effort on those type of guides. Stick with quality guides with ceramic inserts and don't throw the rod down on the rocks . If you don't use braid those guides last a while longer but braided line is a lot like sandpaper as it picks up grit from the water and slides over the guides.
  2. When I change the washers carbon goes back in the hole. I also lap factory steel washers which gives me more of a surface area for the washers to contact and that allows me better adjustment of the drag. I fish 10lb braid for distance casting so a sticky drag with hard and lighter drag pulls doesn't work well. Thanks for mentioning carbon though as some people are still in the felt arena
  3. if you can speed up your drying system that will hold more epoxy on the rod and let less drip off. The slower the rod dryer turns the more that drips off and the finish is thinner. I like the thinner finish but you aren't interested in what I like but more of a thicker coating and one way to do that is spin the rod a bit faster . I had a variable speed system at one time and that's how I figured this out .
  4. jeeze that's kinda stout . You may not want to build one yourself but it not hard to do using a 55 gal plastic drum cut off a little further than half way. Add some fittings a filter made from pvc filled with foam pillow stuffing to filter the water on the way back to the tank. The idea is to either keep fresh water going in the tank or filer the same water recirculated. I built mine from aluminum , double walled with a timer on the pump and it pumps fresh water in the tank and the old water goes out . This happens every 15 minutes and I also have aeration . You might need to turn your hat around backwards if you build one from a plastic drum but I would do that rather than pay a grand for a shad tank.
  5. With the introduction of Stripe bass and hybrids these have my vote . These two have been the cause of me having to replace drag washers in several spinning reels. Before those two I would give a thumbs up to smallmouth bass. When I fished for them at night , they would get a running go to hit a spinner bait and a 4lb smallie would burn a drag as well .
  6. You can take hot melt glue , heat it with a lighter and put a smear on the roller screw head . That's a quick fix to stop losing the screws and the roller . Loktite works great and looks better but the hot melt works as well. Kinda late since you already lost the parts but this does work. Xbay has several pages of line rollers , bearings and screws for daiwa spinners so you might check that out for a faster part
  7. No the distance is to the choke guide . You are thinking about the stripper guide and that is part of the transition . I convert from mm to inches and then measure from the spool lip out . After I get the choke guide tied down I tie some braid from he top of that guide back to the reel shaft with spool removed , then set the transition guides under that slope with the top of the guide touching the string. I mark my guide positions with a drop of whiteout and start wrapping. If you have a place to test cast you can move the stripper guide back and forth to see at what position you get the best distance on a cast. Depending on your reel height you may want to measure under the slope as a medium K guide may work better on the second or 3rd guide better than the high guide
  8. I have never had a problem with single foot guides catching fish over 30lbs . It takes a little more care when you travel to and from the fishing hole but if securely attached to the blank the Fugi K guides have never given me any problems. I also use 4000--5000 series reels . Build your rod on the 27x system with the K-guides and you will have a rod that casts braid a lot better with fewer problems than a convential guide set up .
  9. I have to elbow my way in to fish some days so I don't worry about a spot burn . The tailraces are crowded at times and trying to hide while you catch fish ------won't happen . Quite a few people can't get a bite when you have to hide behind a rock to tie on because the bite is hot.
  10. If line is loading low on a spool you need to remove shims to lower the spool . This is a try and see operation. To get braid to lay even I have added or taken away a washer as thin as 3 thousandths. The better you fine tune line lay the better the reel will cast. An easy way to remember this is line low, lower spool, line high raise the spool
  11. You might consider a salmon steelhead blank in 3/8 -1 or 1/2--2 in a rainshadow or lami blanks . I eventually went to these actions to throw lighter weights as in 3/8 and 1/2 oz jigs and swim baits . Having to deal with long casts and light lure weights due to shallow water conditions moved me to rod actions I could load . I have also landed fish in excess of 20lbs on the 6-12lb line lami models salmon steelhead factory rods. . Those whippy blanks will handle 3/4oz lures and 20+ lb fish in river current from shore with no problems. I started with surf actions and over the years moved to lighter slower blanks to throw the lighter weights .
  12. I use the expanding gorilla glue so It swells and fills in all the voids between the seat and the blank. I should have explained that better since gorilla now makes several different types of glue, apparently one that a person thought was hair gel . It sets up hard and secures the seat to the blank . I have also used this to install cork rear grips for a solid no void connection between a cork handle and the blank .
  13. You can fix a lose reel seat by drilling a small hole in the seat . Take a syringe and inject some water and roll that around , then inject gorilla glue . I have fixed several lose factory real seats using this method and it works excellent. It's hard to replace a reel seat from the back unless you can turn bushings to take up the extra space going on from the big end of the taper.
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