John E

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About John E

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  1. I'll look into them.
  2. Sorry, I don't about the prefab piers.
  3. Correct. If they are laid on sand or compacted material, they will eventually settle.
  4. Ben, It's a mystery until I pull back the vinyl siding and get a look. This will be done right after the flooring goes in. I'm going to re-use the existing door for now. The current vinyl siding was installed over the original wood bevel siding. If I remember correctly, there is some sort of brick mold there but, who knows anymore. I'll use vinyl j-channel to replace the aluminum trim. If you look at the pictures, you can see the door frame insert inside the original frame. It goes from the weather stripping back and wraps around the jamb and behind the molding on the inside. I've got a mess there now between the molding for the weather stripping and the storm door. I just used what was already in place. Hopefully I can clean some of it up. On a positive note, all the plywood has been installed and we're ready for the wood flooring. That will get started by the weekend. I need to get the flooring nailer, nails and few miscellaneous items to get started. I'm thinking my best option is to buy the nailer since the cost of buying vs. renting one will probably be a wash. I can always try to sell it when I'm done.
  5. Triumph, No moisture barrier. The installation is on the upper floor. They upsold us on a product called "Insulayment" to put under the flooring.
  6. Either the finish was damaged when the tail wrap was made of the plug was dropped. Cover the area with clear epoxy or nail polish and fish.
  7. New flooring got delivered this morning. 4" wide hickory. This is the top row off one box. There should be some darker browns and grey tones in the mix as well based on the mock-up at the store. I'm digging the striations in the bottom plank. Hopefully there are more like it
  8. They should
  9. Thanks for the tips. Since the door seems like it will open when the floor is laid (weather stripping may drag slightly), I'll probably wait until after the floor is done. My thoughts are to remove the replacement door, storm door, sills and original frame then reinstall the frame as far up as I can in the opening. Once that is done, I can install a new sill, existing replacement door and storm. I'll get the new door in a few years when we're ready for it. I'll also need to adjust the siding for the new door height.
  10. I’ve got 1-1/4” between the header and the door frame. Looks like the door will be going up at some point in this project.
  11. Ben, The frame for a replacement door. Remove old door and hinges and it slides in between the existing jambs.
  12. rathrbefishn, Unfortunately, it's a metal door so it can't be trimmed. I'll pull the trim above the door tonight to see if there's any space to move the door up. It's a replacement door (thin metal "L" frame) so it sits in the frame of the original door. Even if there's room between the upper door frame and header, it's going to be a project. I have a feeling I'll need to do something with the siding above the door as well.
  13. Me either Ben. The only thing I can think of is the planking was real wet when they put it down and shrank as it dried. Got some more progress since my last update. Old flooring (carpet and original hardwood) stripped and plywood down in my daughter's room Plywood down in my son's room. Room leveled as well. Fixed the 2 sheets of plywood between the entrance door and kitchen. I didn't like how they came out originally. Needed to have the shimming adjusted to be flatter with more support added underneath to eliminate the flexing. Just had them screwed down in case I need to adjust them later. Glad I did it that way. They are now glued and screwed. This is one of the areas that had settled so I'm bring it up as much as possible to match the rest of the living room. I shot a straight level line on the wall from the front door to the far side of the hallway with a cheap laser I purchased off of amazon. I have a few things left to do including finishing the hallway, 3 closets, along with adjusting the shimming in the settled area of the master bedroom and the transition between the master bedroom and hallway. Now here's a question: The front door is going to drag on the floor if I can get it open at all after the new flooring is installed since the subfloor had to be raised. What are my options? The only thing I can think of is to have the door raised about a inch or so. The front door has to be close to 30 years old and we were thinking about having it replaced in a few years anyway. Is it possible to get a new door installed higher in the opening if there's room or have the existing header trimmed back?