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Posts posted by Longvl85

  1. Hull ID: HCCE1499I910

    Color: DUNE

    MFG: 10/2009

    Model Year: 2010

    Originally Purchased from:

    Collinsville Canoe & Kayak

    41 Bridge St, Collinsville, CT 06019

    (860) 693-6977


    Thru Hull 3/4" White Plastic Connector For Bilge Pump

    600 GPH Shoreline Bilge Pump Screwed into the Black Post up front

    Shoreline Float Switched Silicone in front hatch of Kayak

    2 Scotty Rod Holder Mounts on Left and Right side Deck Plate

    1 Hummin Bird Fish Finder Mounted on right side deck plate behind scotty mount.

    The Transducer is glue inside the hull under center hatch.

  2. Quote:

    Originally Posted by MagDarter View Post


    I'm looking to lay the yak flat on the trailer by installing wood planks as Longvl85 did. 

    I would of course buy the longer steel beam to lengthen the trailer to the hitch as Longvl85 did. 

    Ultimately I would modify the trailer similar to r111 with some type of foam or padding as that is my cheapeast option since I don't have the yakima setup nor do I want to spend the money unless i find a good buy.


    Now, two additional quesitons....


    • Since my car is a two door coupe I would need a raise... How do you raise the trailer? 

    • Also, as i will be using a longer steel beam to lengthen the trailer the yak would overhang on the front quite a bit how would i secure that?  I was thinking about putting a cross bar somewhere along the length of that beam and use that as support to tie down the yak? 


    If you need me to draw something to help better explain I can.


    Thanks for all your advice and support Longvl85 and r111




    Most the hitch comes with a Ball Mount. I just flipped it upside down and that worked for me. As far as  support of they kayak. if you think about how the Yakima and Thule works they only support the kayak in the middle and the rest just hang. So if you rested your Yak on the wooden deck and strap it down you should be fine. Make sure you have the red flag as well so people don't run into you.


  3. Quote:

    Originally Posted by MagDarter View Post

    This is really awesome, thank you so much for taking the time to share your methodology.  A few questions for you:


    • What brand is the hitch you bought and how much did it cost?

    • I saw a few comments regarding transporting your kayak on the trailer without the yakima rack.  Can you please elaborate on how you can secure the kayak? 


    I just bought a hobie pro angler 12 and I also have a two door couple like you and i'm looking at my options for transport. 


    PS.  You cannot beat this system... Not only do you have a fuel efficent car you have a trailer that stores most of your gear... you sir... are a genius haha

    You get build a rack system...make 4 of these  and bolt it down to each corner. then pass galvanized steel rods through them. Then you can use the yakima Accessories.

    Then install the Eyebolts like I have and use ratchet strips to secure kayak. I mean this is what I would do if I didnt have yakima gear laying around.





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    Originally Posted by kdnguyen2 View Post


    Well, you lose part of the fuel efficiency if it takes your engine twice the power to pull the trailor w/ kayak than if you had a V6 or more powerful engine to haul the yak smile.gif




    I haven't notice any  drops in mpg when I look at the car's trip info, dunno I only take the trailer out a couple times a week so I guess that not a fair accurate reading.. I assume it would do better than having the kayak on the roof since its more aero dynamic? idk Just a guess lol.

  4. Ahh loving the trailer. lol.

    I thought about getting a hand cranked winch after having to get in the cold water to lift the rear end of the kayak up lol.







    Originally Posted by DerrickT View Post

    Neighbor just bought one of these trailers to hual his cycle. Its a really nice trailer. Its actually a drop trailer which is nice.

    Not sure how it is in other states but before he can register it here in Pa it has to be inspected at a cost of $150 and if it passes he can register it.


    In Connecticut the Harbor Freight one is Manufactured Trailer so no inspection is required. Lucky for us I guess. I would hate to pay $150 to get it inspected.

  5. Quote:

    Originally Posted by HatterasJack View Post

    that's a key point for sure!


    I now have 2 kayaks and have been thinking for the past 2-3 weeks about doing the very same thing you did for my two

    I already have the HF trailer in the two boxes that I bought and never used - so it's about time

    My thoughts are to use 2 of the 45 degree kayak carriers - you know, the ones where the yak is virtually on its side for transport

    Although while typing this I could do an over and under which would be nice but would make it harder to utilize existing stuff like Yakima

    I never thought of the rod carrier feature that you have there - that's another good idea - you've got a number of them

    but overall, I can't believe the coincidence of you building exactly what I've been mulling around in my head lately

    awesome - you have helped tremendously

    and I have to make sure it's multi-purpose as you stated above


    Ill eventually be loading two kayaks on this trailer. I would prefer to do side by side loading vs one on top of the other I'm scared it might be top heavy and flip during turns or maybe strong winds.




    Originally Posted by r111 View Post

    More or less the route I am taking now - building one for a 14' Hobie Angler. Since I don't have Yakima system, I will just put some padding (Lowes pipe insulation rubber foamy thing)  on some 2x4's.


    The trailer is $180 - 20% off, around $150 outta door.


    Also, I will keep the stock tong rail,  but extend it with a removable 6' length of 1 1/2 square perf metal tubing ($40 @ McMaster). This way, in tight parking spots , I can remove the extension, flip the trailer upright on its @ss and have a smaller parking footprint of just 1'x4'.


    Dont want to be a nuisance to other yakers, taking 16' of  space in the parking areas.


    Will post some pics  as I complete the project.

    I think the 180$ is for the 10" wheels. I would pay a little extra and get the 12" wheel model. It will give you more capacity and higher speed rating. Just my opinion lol. 

    Ill be interested in see what you do with the tongue. Are you gonna put a new ball coupler on the extension?

  6. Quote:

    Originally Posted by njdevs View Post

    ... it was the rack system that drove up the price on this one.


    Craigslist usually has Yakima Racks for cheap I was able to pick up a full rack and kayak mount for $100. What's nice about have the Yakima rack on the trailer is you can remove the rack by just unlocking it and unclipping the Q-Towers. Then you can haul other stuff around.