8fishermen

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Everything posted by 8fishermen

  1. I just ordered a Do it casting spoon mold in the ¼, ½, ¾, and 1 ounce size. Already had the 1 ½ and 2 ounce. The ¾ swims ok. Actually caught a largemouth in my pond test casting it unpainted. The ½ and ¼ need a little help if they are going to swim well. It got dark before i could play around with them. I read an artical that said a split ring or snap would help a spoon swim a little better. I am thinking of flattening the line end a little to see if more surface area up front will help. Does anyone have a tip or trick to get little lead spoons to swim better? Would tin swim better? Any other mods?
  2. Paper is 15" wide and overlapped. These range from ¼ up to 2oz.
  3. I learned something new today. I was painting lead spoons using one of our spray rigs. I stayed them on brown floor paper while shooting them at different angles to cover the edges. I had a little over spray wrap around and the slabs stuck to the paper. When i flipped them over, I lined the boards with parchment paper instead of brown paper and placed the painted side down. When they dried, I had complete and free release with no sticking. You could pick up one edge of the parchment and the slabs would just slide off. This is probably well known to some but thought I'd share.
  4. It's a terrible pic. The green is actually chartreuse. The other side is painted white. We cast these in into tail races targeting stripes, hybrids, and white bass. By catch is blue cats, largemouth and spots, fresh water drum, and an occupational carp or buffalo. We lose lots of them in the rip rap.
  5. I just ordered a Do it casting spoon mold in the ¼, ½, ¾, and 1 ounce size. Already had the 1 ½ and 2 ounce. The ¾ swims ok. Actually caught a largemouth in my pond test casting it unpainted. The ½ and ¼ need a little help if they are going to swim well. It got dark before i could play around with them. I read an artical that said a split ring or snap would help a spoon swim a little better. I am thinking of flattening the line end a little to see if more surface area up front will help. Does anyone have a tip or trick to get little lead spoons to swim better? Would tin swim better? Any other mods?
  6. One thing i will add... They run alot shallower than i expected. Most of the fish i caught today i saw come up from below and actually got to watch the eat. These smaller ones will be perfect for our shallow spillway with riprap bottom when minimum flow is being released.
  7. Bending the spoon and adding split ring to the front is there ticket so far. A steady retrieve or a stop and drop on Simi tight line to trigger strikes works very well. I will paint these with industrial waterborne alkid urethane so the coating will flex when bending and adjusting. Can't wait to put these in the current at our local spillway.
  8. I have tried multiple combos and so far the winner is a snap or a split ring and a bend in the spoons. Works excellent in the ¼ through the 1 oz. They seem to swim better with this combo than direct tired to the wire loop. Snap swivels came in second but the added length seemed to absorb some of the side to side motion. Catching bad and bluegill on the ¼ and ½.
  9. The ¾ has a decent wobble at moderate speeds. The ½ and ¼ need a moderate fast retrieve to activate them. Not ripping it back in, but a pretty fast retrieve. I will be fishing and swinging these in current so the current will help with action. I'm experimenting in my stillwater pond trying to get the wiggle dialed in. I'll try rings/clips and bending today.
  10. I just realized I put this in the subform for lure building. Could a mod please remove this.
  11. Hey guys. Been a while since i stopped by. Are there any 3000 or 4000 sized reels that are built like the larger distance reels? I'm looking for good line lay and spool design for as much distance as possible with a lighter smaller reel for 8' rods. Thanks
  12. Depth and speed. If I've covered them all then the fish ain't there... yet.
  13. Looking for a spinning blank for fishing a tail race. I want to reach 120 yards with the minimum amount of lure weight. Would like to stay around 1 or 2 oz lure weight. The water is shallow and fast so a longer rod helps keep the line out of the fast cross currents. Need a minimum of 11' of rod to control line. Longer would be better as long as it feels light in the hand. My favorite rods are unpainted with single foot guides to keep the top as light and responsive as possible. I fish braid so concept or kr layout. I really like light rods and reels. Considering an ultegra 5500 to keep it light. Suggestions?
  14. Thanks for all the replies. Checking these and other options out. Will let you know what I decide.
  15. Are cts or century blanks available in the US?
  16. Not sure on budget. Not sure what I need to spend to get what I want. Don't want to spend more than needed but also understand that we are talking about a high preformance tool Brand is not really important to me. As far as action, will be throwing metal, jigs, and topwater. We often use a technique where we throw weighted popping corks with a teaser.
  17. How much difference is there in distance between a spinning reel made for distance and one made for just fishing? Assuming they are the same size and line capacity, how much added distance have YOU seem when using distance reels?
  18. Thank you to all who offered info. ZAFisher, what rod is the 11' 1-3 Oz? Sound like what I am looking for. Frazerp, who is this rod builder you speak of? This sound like the exact rig I have be searching for. I would say that 11% increase is significant! For a 3/4 Oz weight firing out to and over 100 YARDS all I can say is WOW!!!
  19. Check with your local rod builders. They well often have trade in or consignment rods that can be had for cheep dollars. I have bought a few that way and saved several hundred bucks. Worth a try.
  20. Received One 5500C. One 6000. and Two 5501C3 of which one was upgraded with a dual bb levelwind. Jerry Foran serviced, cleaned, and replaced parts and drags in all of these. They all are in perfect working order now! I rushed home from work to find them waiting. I spooled the dual bb 5501C3 up with 30 lb 832, slapped it on my newly reworked 9' 1-4oz mhx blank and rushed off the football field for some test casting. After playing around a little and getting the reel loosened up I removed one of the break blocks. I was only able to cast smoothly with a 2' drop. I use an overhead cast at the location I fish. That is usually the best cast I have found that will work (steep rip rap that is hard enough just to stand on much less step into a cast). Sometimes I can find a rock stable enough to use a swinging Uni-tech cast but not often. After a little practice I was consistently hitting 103-106 yards. My best cast was 116 yards. All these were made with a 2 oz lead Do-It casting spoon without the hook attached. On a good clean smooth cast the line would never lift off the spool and I would never thumb the spool until touchdown. I had a few overruns on touchdown when I was not quick enough on the thumb. I could feel when I would have a bad cast and would have to thumb the spool to prevent a backlash. I think with a little practice I will be able to get a longer drop and loosen up the spool a little more. I may add a couple of static mags to this reel and try removing the other break. Not sure if that will help or not but might be worth a try. With an overhead thump type cast and the above setup with a 2 oz spoon, what is a realistic distance goal to set? Any tips or suggestions?
  21. Hit the field again this afternoon. After a several cast to figure out the new mag I started letting it rip. I was able to cast into the wind better than ever. I was able to hit 103-105 yards into the teeth of a 14 mph wind with no overruns. Going with the quartering wind the last 4 cast were 127, 130, 123, 122. The wind was quartering in the direction I was casting and there was a huge belly in the line going into and also with the wind. Not sure I can get much more out of this setup. Guess I will have to move on to the next project.
  22. After reading this thread ( http://www.stripersonline.com/t/514614/i-knobby-mag-my-avet ) I decided to give my Abu a try. I had to make a mod as the side plate on Abu's are too thin to tap so this is what I came up with. It seems to work very well and is sealed as the rubber washer seals the inside and the rubber threaded bushing with locktite on the threads and grease on the rubber bushing seal from the outside. I used a 5/16" bit to drill the hole for the stainless 1/4" T-nut to go through. I used this same bit to drill the seal out of a lock washer which made the magnet fit perfectly inside the cup left from the bit. A drop of locktite on the lock nut and bolt are all very secure with the magnet setting perfectly in the center. The bolt is 1/4" X 1 1/4". I left the threads in the bushing and used locktite to secure it to the bolt that way it is sealed and the whole thing turns easily when greased but stays put because of the tight fit. Here are a few pics. In the third pic you can see the mag sitting inside the nut. The three washers in the third pic are form where I had it static magged.