Kneel

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Everything posted by Kneel

  1. AWD - "locking" viscous 4WD - transfer case AWD - one drive range 4WD - high and low, open and locked AWD - all 4 wheels recieve torque, the wheel with the least resistance(traction) receives the most torque 4WD - 2 of 4 wheels(one front one rear) receive torque, the front and rear sets with the least resistane(traction) recieves the most torque. 4X4 - locked center, locked front and rear, all four wheels receive EQUAL torque. Everybody got that?
  2. I have 2 Rovers and they have never left me stranded or have spent excessive time in the shop. In fact, the two BMW's I've had have spent more time in the shop than the Rovers. They are expensive to maintain and do require attention. I think the attention is the problem. 95% of them never leave the pavement. When "ordinary" people think of current Land Rovers the think of status and luxury. While it does have most of the plush creature comforts of your luxo-cruisers, it's still a high torque, boxed steel ladder frame, solid axle, coil sprung, working/farm truck at heart. When people hear the transfer case clunk and see 90wt seeping from the swivels they panic. I'm not saying they dont break down, but I dont think they break down any more or less than other makes. I think they have a bad rep.
  3. Yes, it is the Defender. Was it the NY Auto show or one of the SEMA shows? The NY Auto Show had the Defender used in the first Tomb Raider movie. In the last two years at SEMA, there were two Defender 110's featured. The last being the CKD Defender(Complete Knock Down) which has been the only way to get a Defender into the states after 1997. I've seen those trucks at the shows. They looked awesome.
  4. Get the Discovery befor 2005 if you like a solid axle. The D3 will share the same system as the new Range Rover. While it's an extremely capable system, it's still IFS/IRS. Only difference being when a control arm travels upwards, the opposit arm will force itself downwards. Neat stuff, but not something you could easily repair on the trail if need be.
  5. I would imagine it would be the same as a z71 Tahoe as they are the same truck. Only for the extra 15k you get to call it a Hummer
  6. Add stiffer springs, ditch the rear roll bar, and let the rear flex. Once you remove the limiting factors like swaybars and short travel shocks, the "drooping" wheel, while not fully loaded is still providing traction. Once a wheel gets in the air on an open diff, you're done.
  7. Aside from larger tires, the only way to increase the clearance is to REPLACE the entire axle assembly. If you can weld or have Jesse James as your neighbor, Volvo portal axles with give you 18 inches inder the diff with 33" tires. But forget about going over 70 on the highway. They only come geared in 5.97 and 7.14. Unless you put 44's on them...
  8. Fishpicker and Bentrod are Margaret Thatcher and Ronald Reagan respectivly...
  9. Good luck in getting KoQ to go on a hunger strike...
  10. That is provided they have a method of centrally locking the differential to rotate the front and rear driveshafts at the same speed. Most trucks now are all wheel drive, meaning the engines torque gets split between the wheels, not the axles. Lift one wheel off the ground and you can easily get stuck since all power will be delivered to the wheel with the least resistance. Lock the center and torque is split between the axles(50 goes to the front and 50 to the back). Lock the diffs at the axle and you have true 4 wheel drive, all wheels spin at equal rates with torque being distributed equally. I have a TrueTrak(limited slip) front and Detroit rear so at best my truck is 3 wheel drive
  11. Thanks for the welcome! Larger WHEELS, yes. Tires have remained the same diameter, however the aspect ratio has been diminished. This is all fine and dandy to improve onroad performance, but take that same tire and wheel combo, air down, and play on the rocks. Say goodby to those shiny 17/18/20 inch alloys. This also applies to beach driving. Take a 265/75/16 and 265/70/17 and air down to 12 psi. you will have more sidewall flexed on the sand giving youbetter traction with the tire with the taller aspect ratio.
  12. AS do I, however auto engineers don't speed millions to design a truck with the intention of adding larger tires. There are very few trucks out there that have the hardware to handle it right out of the box. With the way things are going, larger tires will be a thing of the past with 99% of the trucks now being built IFS/IRS.
  13. Sorry! To answer your question on where, you can install it yourself. It's as simple as wiring fog lights, just have a suitable fuse/relay/switch that can handle a 30 amp load. If you are not sure, any car audio place can help. Your biggest dilemma will be finding a place to mount the compressor and storage for the air lines.
  14. I previously had an ARB compressor which lasted about 5 years before it rusted out(due to my own negligence). It would air up all 4 my 265/85/16's (33.5x10) from 10-12 psi to 33 in about 10 minutes. The Oasis compressor I have now does it in abot a minute which is comparable to the Powertank. The Oasis can also set the bead. Advantage of the Oasis is as long as you have battery power, you never run out of air. Some of the complaints I hear about Powertanks is the need to refill. Expect about 20 33in tires for the tank which is every 5 trips. Not a big deal if you wheel once or twice a month. The disadvantage of the Oasis is the price. Expect to shell out close to 800 bucks, imho, is well worth it.
  15. There is ony a -3.5% difference in those two sizes. I dont think you will notice a difference. You'll find in most vehicles, the speedo is off about +5% when measured against GPS. As far as regearing, I'm not sure of what rig you are driving. If your truck is underpowered to begin with, you may notice a lag while going uphill. Or if you have a weak drivetrain, the extra torque created by the size and weight of the tire could spell broken axles, diffs, and CV's. Larger tires can be a boon or burden.