Al Goldberg

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About Al Goldberg

  • Rank
    1,000 Post Club!

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fishing and rod building.
  • What I do for a living:
    Retired

Profile Fields

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Montauk, NY
  1. I gave the customer a professional discount and in return I received an open invitation to fish on his boat anytime. He is a retired charter boat captain in Montauk and he commercial fishes with hook and line. If you ever fished commercially with a rod and reel with an experienced commercial fisherman, it's not fishing, it's hunting until you find them and "Lock and Load". I remember one of my mentors saying "You are not getting paid for building a rod. You are getting paid for your expertise."
  2. Just finished a rebuild and the above cost estimates are in the ball park. Just stripping the rod of all components and bringing the blank back to the point to start the rebuild is about 10-12 hours of work. You can't expect any qualified rod builder to work for less than $35/hour so you are looking at $350-400 in labor costs plus new components. Take Billy's advice and buy a Tidemaster for $100.
  3. Braised Beef Short Ribs just out of the oven. Will refrigerate the ribs and sauce overnight separately and remove the congealed fat in the morning.
  4. I switched over to them last year and am very satisfied. Much more durable than Gulp.
  5. That's exactly what I do. I build primarily boat rods from ultralight bay fluke jigging to Block Island cod rods. The manufacturer's rating are both for line class and casting weight. The drop weight for bottom fishing or jigging is heavier. I have a bunch of sinkers from 1-12 ounces and heavy duty rubber bands rigged with a large snap. Attach the sinker to snap then wrap the rubber band several turns around the tip and do a static deflection. Keep add additional sinkers until the blank begins to bottom out. Gradually remove sinkers until you have the power curve that results in the top 1/4 of the blank being loaded.
  6. Read the reviews on the production rod. They all give it high marks as a travel rod both in quality and construction. As far as using a Penn Slammer III 4500, it has a 30 pound drag and a capacity of 250 yards of 30 pound test braid which should be sufficient. The only recurring comment was to use KR's for the first three guides and then go to single foot guides. Start with KR's 30, 20,12 then single foot 2@10 and 3@8. That should give you a good power curve fighting those brawlers.
  7. Good luck Tim. When I had my quadruple bypass they did the catherization through the groin which was typical since it is a much larger artery.
  8. Im building 54 years and I am still a student of the craft.
  9. I have been using Nite Bite's method for many years building custom surf rods. Place the butt end of the rod in your armpit. Stretch out your arm full length locking your elbow and grip the rod. Now slide your hand enough so there is a little bend in your elbow. Using something to mark the rod, a grease pencil, mark between your middle and ring finger. That mark is where the stem of the reel should be. Measure from the end of the butt to the mark, say 22 inches. Mount your reel on the rod and measure from the reel stem 22 inches and mark the spot. That is where the butt should be cut. Wrap masking tape around the spot using it as a guide to trim the butt. Use a Dremel tool, band saw or a fine hack saw to cut. You will need a new butt cap that can easily be glued on. It's is an easy fix that any reputable rod builder can do the repair in ten minutes.
  10. Very clever. My first wrapper was a cardboard box with V grooves cut in the sides. A cup held the thread spool and a stack of books provided the tension with the thread sandwiched between two pages of white typing paper to keep the thread clean.
  11. I have an osprey nest close to my home on Three Mile Harbor. The pair have been back a little more than a week. I usually go down late afternoon and watch them when the chicks have hatched. I became a birdwatcher in my old age.
  12. I’m still on the right side of the grass. Hope you are well. This past year has been challenging for everyone. Received my second Covid vaccine shot with some minor reactions. Looking forward to the coming season. Right now I’m working on rod orders for delivery by the end of April. I speak to Mel frequently.
  13. I have a Rainshadow 1/8-3/8 paired with a Stradic 1000 spooled with 10 braid. I use it for snapper fishing around Montauk and shallow water fluke jigging in Shinnecock and Moriches Bays. I have taken keeper stripers along with the snappers and fluke up to ten pounds in the shallow bay. Lots of fun.
  14. I would scrub the entire grip with Comet and a dish pad then rinse clean and let dry overnight. Use synthetic wood filler to fill up the gouges then sand with 600 grit paper. Glue on a thin strip of rubber to the reel foot to take up some space. Cut two thin rings of shrink tubing slightly narrower than each of the sliding rings. Position the reel where you want it on the grip and mark the outer edges of the reel foot. Move both metal rings to each end of the grip. Slide on the two rings of shrink tubing, align the reel foot where you marked it and slide the shrink tubing over the reel foot. Using a heat gun shrink the first tubing then check the reel alignment again. Now do the same with the second ring of tubing. Once the tubing is shrunk carefully slide up the metal rings and tighten them down. The shrink tubing will not be visible and the reel should be nice and snug without moving.
  15. Kudos Billy. It's too many years since the Wing Fling when I first met you. Congrats. P.S. Bernie is smiling down at you.