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Everything posted by swirlchaser

  1. You want to print it with a honeycomb interior not solid, that will give bouancy and you can stop half way through and drop in a weight, through wire and swivel in.
  2. Going to take a few atemps to figure out how hollow to print it and how to get the weight into it but it can be done.
  3. No such thing as too much hook for a needle unless they marry. They have no swim to kill.
  4. You should be using a primer for that very reason.
  5. Shoot it lightly over a silver lateral line. I think you'll like it.
  6. You have to laugh otherwise you'd set the whole shop on fire out of rage. I can't paint a dozen without 1-2 rejects, worsted part of the process for me.
  7. Seal, sand, prime, sand, paint, curse, repaint, epoxy, drop on the floor, sand the crap off it, epoxy again.
  8. That's why I like the sniff test, easy to tell if it's still gassing.
  9. That's why I like the sniff test, easy to tell if it's still gassing.
  10. If you're not using a duplicator then turn down only the spots where the diameter changes, measuring each one with a caliper. Once all your transition points are turned you just connect the dots.
  11. Are you drilling on a press? I drill on the lathe and never had a problem going from 5/32 straight to the final diameter
  12. I use hangers all the way through the process, use a spring with the wire on the dryer
  13. I found it easier to use AYC. Much harder then red, plenty buoyant, tight grain, sands like a dream. It's more expensive but by the time I figure the cost of epoxy sealing red and the additional time and labor I feel it's worth it.
  14. On a plug your base material is much softer than on a concrete floor. If you laid 2 coats of that epoxy over an inflated balloon could it handle having tools dropped on it? One of the main reason I went away from red Cedar was because of how easily it dented.
  15. Need necessarily, this epoxy is over concrete a material that has no give. We coat a much softer material so I think the softer epoxies work better. I've used epoxies that dried hard as a rock but they were too brittle and ended up cracking. Expecially over red cedar.
  16. Eastern red is tricky. That's something you want to handle. Most times western red gets substituted.
  17. Paint and epoxy right after pouring. Fresh lead has a decent shine.
  18. A Dremel with a drum sander at LOW speed should take care of those drips, then recoat.
  19. Funny thing about pull pins, trying to pull one out while still holding the mold shut tightly can be tricky lol. Release the mold then pull, no lube should be needed.
  20. I used a wooden bunker snag mold for 2 years. The problem with wood molds is they get slightly bigger with each pour. For a sinker or snag that's no big deal, for a tail weight an ever growing outer diameter could be a problem
  21. Gray Pearl Orange
  22. Make sure you heat the lead WELL past the melting point. Preheat the mold before you pour, that will keep the lead liquid longer to help fill the cavity.
  23. If you want to head out east I believe the RI guys will put your order on the ferry for you. Call and confirm first.
  24. Basswood and white Cedar are good alternatives and a little easier to find on the east coast.
  25. I would say rot resistance, hardness, straight grain, weight and ease to work with are the magical properties lol.