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About exp2000

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    Broome, Western Australia
  1. Browsing the schematics, they are all pretty similar so I just winged it and it works fine. Thanks for your help.
  2. Thanks for your reply but I am not sure we are talking about the same reel? Google Images of these reels do not correspond to the one I posted. The one I have posted is very old and the letters are stamped.
  3. Anyone got schematics?
  4. Here in Western Australia we have had similar experience with Penn Precision Reel Grease. It also forms rocky lumps and turns to concrete. Same story wit every reel that comes in lubed with this stuff. *
  5. No offense but I find it almost impossible to read the post with that avatar constantly replaying beside it. Just way too distracting and I cannot focus on the content. Food for thought?
  6. New Release Daiwa Saltist Spin 2016 Preview: This was unexpected given the release of the Nero clone earlier last year but yep, Daiwa have done it again; resurrecting the reel I just love to hate. But wait, there's more! They finally abandoned the horrendous Handle / maingear combination that produced so many shattered gears and was a technician's worst nightmare to disassemble. Rumor has it that it has been replaced by a more robust standard design. As I said before, anything would be an improvement! It is still manufactured from zinc alloy but apparently heavier construction and hopefully stronger. Unfortunately Daiwa has also dropped the high speed gear ratio which for many anglers was the main attraction for this reel. The pot luck flimsy Delrin bushes in the bail roller have now been replaced by a bearing with mag-seal shields and the pinion bearing also is shielded by a mag seal. There is still plenty of healthy online debate about the practicality and reliability of this technology and as my exposure is rather limited, I really cannot offer an informed opinion based on personal experience at this point in time. But just when it seemed Daiwa was doing so well we still find that same weak composite "air bail" wire adorning this new revision. Given it's fragile construction and daunting expense, I really think that Daiwa should supply an ex-gratis spare in the box of every new purchase. But despite this one lingering fault, I welcome this new revision with open arms because it will mean an end to my worst nightmare of trying to extract a hammered flared maingear shaft through an inner bearing race whilst still assembled in the gearbox. How Daiwa techs dealt with this I will never know! Perhaps they just drilled it out and replaced the maingear. Hey! There you go KimberleyRodandReel
  7. :laugh: :laugh: Yep, those composite air bails sure provide Daiwa with a lot of aftermarket revenue. It's encouraging to hear that they have abandoned that atrocious maingear / handle arrangement that produced so many fractured donuts.
  8. http://klr6500.tripod.com/grease101.htm As for a marine grease, if it says lithium, it's gonna retain water and wash out. DON'T LOOK AT THE NAME BUT THE COMPLEX. Here is one of the biggest problems that a grease has and many have experienced this.. Ever see a grease turn milky looking? A lot of people have, especially the ones sitting on the side of the road with wheel bearings wiped out............... The cause, water mixing with the complex. The most popular complex (lithium) tends to do this more than some others. Lithium complex is a soap base and will emulsify with water or retain water in the complex thus the milky color. Of course water has what kind of effect on metal parts? ............ To see what I'm talking about try this.. Take a dab of grease in the palm of one hand and put some water on it. Now with your index finger, mix the water into the grease and see how it turns milky and if enough water milks in, it will start to actually thin out or breakdown............... These are some of the reasons I will not use this complex myself. Unfortunately most bearing manufactures tell you that lithium is what they recommend and of course it is easier to obtain at just about any parts house.............. if the complex washes out so does your synth oil. Therefore, a lot of wasted money in that case. No, I'm not saying that synth is worthless but with a high moisture application such as a boat trailer or in cooling systems where high moisture is present, using a lithium grease it is............. If you want to avoid water wash out use an aluminium complex grease with moly and it will not mix with water. I have seen other discussions which cited salt water being absorbed by lithium based grease forming a corrosive salt compound. I have seen salt compromised lubes destroy internal zinc alloy gears. Corrosion is the number one enemy of fishing reels so it is my primary focus when servicing. I want my lubes to repel water, not absorb it. As a general lube, I use Corrosion-X products myself because of their superior corrosion resistance. ~
  9. Quote: Originally Posted by Mtd35 The big issue for me with the I series is the little 1116145 spring that tensions the clutch. It is very delicate and if not placed properly it will pop off the shaft, leaving you a reel that you manually have to place back into gear. I find that I have to test my 7500i Elite's clutch at least a dozen times to make sure the 1116145 spring does not pop off. I much prefer the simplicity of the older push button 7000 series clutch for this reason. Other then that I love the reel. It cast far and just plain winches fish. Hi Mtd35, Yes it is not the most stable design for sure and the fine spring shoulders a sideplate support post which does not help matters any. Check the support coils on the end of the spring and tighten them up if they look distended. Check that the spring sits naturally in position and is not distorted or try a replacing with a new spring. The spring is so fine that it could easily be deformed during installation if not careful. Check the ends to make sure they are seated properly in the positioning grooves and make sure no other parts are fouling the spring during operation causing it to dislodge. Good luck. ~
  10. Quote: Originally Posted by quan808 I owned the Abu 7000i Rocket for a little while too, but hated those springs, and didn't want to service 10 Abus with all different parts...didn't make any sense. There were no true upgrades to the "i" series reels were there to justify the change in parts? The BIG difference between the classic 7000's and the newer "I series" is the drag. There is zero comparison. The "I series drag" is infinitely more powerful and could winch any denizen of the deep off the bottom. From memory I think that the AR bearing has also been upgraded as a consequence. I have not used one extensively so I am interested to hear exactly why some owners reckon they are garbage? As a service tech, the one flaw I can see is the new clutch release design. You have a very large lever 1116151 tensioned by a very tiny spring 1116145 (almost invisible in the schematics). This balancing act is so fine that I reckon it would only take some light corrosion to upset the operation of this design. I am looking forward to seeing what has changed in the latest design if anything (now made in Sweden again?) ~
  11. Quote: I have never seen the Penn Kimberly 6000. I see you are from Austrailia. We only get the junk here in the US. Do you have any idea where I might find one? If so, please email me at pennvaughan@aol.com Don't bother mate, Everything I have seen marketed by Jarvis Walker under the "Penn" banner is inferior in some way. With the Kimberley, the letdown is the inside "chrome" plates. The finish is mock chrome on plastic and it peels away in time making the reel look very ugly. It's a pitty because otherwise it looks to be a good replica. ~
  12. 35A as measured: Metric: 4 x 7 x 2 Inches: 0.161 x 0.275 x 0.079 ~
  13. Quote: Originally Posted by Fishon27 Quote: Originally Posted by spinningreel When the "rigid" graphite body will start twisting, the rotor arm bending, and the braid line digging (thanks varispeed), while retrieving a very big fish, you'll be glad to have the power roller III. Guess I'll have to find out as soon as I get one and field test it. I don't like to bash a product that I haven't even used yet...I have the baitrunner d now and it is performing great so I'm sure this one with the upgraded components will not disappoint. Plus Shimano won't be where they are now if they built poorly designed products. To me the overall upgraded design and better components of the reel surpasses the lack of the aerowrap but I'm sure the shimano engineers used the varispeed for a reason, most people that buy the higher end shimanos would pay for the extra money to have the aerowave but the shimano engineers that have been successful probobly don't know any better Well......... What was the outcome? It has been suggested that braid did not spool so well on the previous model. How did the CI4 shape up? ~
  14. Quote: Originally Posted by barrell All summer I have been asking my customers who have never had a problem with their Hobies and asking those that have the same question. The results have been 100%. Those that have never had a cracked hull always start out slow on the drive and then go full speed after the kayak has gone into motion. Those with problems like to lay wheels and go full bore from a stationary position. Im no engineer but I imagine that the stress put on the system is 20 times more if you hammer the drive from a standing start. Once the kayak start to go into motion all the stress is reduced substatialy. What about the physical size of the users. i am guessing that bigger guys would place more stress on the drive hull area simply because they are more powerful?