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About CaryGreene

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • About Me:
    I love the Canal!!
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly Fishing and Tying, Saltwater & Freshwater Fishing, Boating and Jet Skis.
  • What I do for a living:
    Director of North American Retail for Benjamin Moore Paints

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  1. Thank you bmac, feel free. Doesn't foul at all & swims really nice.Let's see what you come up with.
  2. The Anadro is definitely a good floating line for many applications, that's what I thought after the first full season using it. Feel that way & even more so a's the second full season is winding down. I personally worked the Anadro very hard this Spring & it was just stellar. Not a Single issue. Casts really smoothly & easily. Running line doesn't tangle at all. Lays out like a rope at most distances. Easy to handle. Durable. Very good floating line for me from New England, NJ & on down to the Carolinas. Interesting to hear your feedback on them JRT & your experience with the Rio Coastal XP also. Two of my buddies are fishing the Rio''s this fall & both are telling me the same thing regarding the running line coiling. One is fishing it out of CT & the other at Harkers Island & up as far as NJ. We tried gently stretching them right before a big day fishing Gurglers, slender hard-body Myrex Poppers & Crease Fly Sliders chasing bird squalls Sunday , didn't help much. I was using an Airflo Coldwater Floating Line & was experiencing Nirvana & my buddy was cursing a lot. Received three reports from dealers that customers are saying the same thing. Based on pictures they sent me, some of these customers are using small arbor reels & had stored the line on the reel for weeks/months. I saw a couple of we'll used Coastal XP lines & they were wound on the reels very tightly, which is always tough on running line. JRT, do you have the Coastals on Small/Mid Arbor reels and or, how tightly are they wound? Do you feel the line is properly stretched & still coiling more than it should? The finer the diameter of a running line, the more of an issue potentially exists. Jacket hardness & Core will also influence Line Twist. Remember Braided Mono Running g Lines back in the 80's? .031 Diameter typically (relatively beefy) & horrendously bad memory. Still, we thought they were great back then. I'd be interested to also hear from other posters on the topic of running line coiling issues - General Thoughts & also - particular lines that don't coil much at all or- the reverse - lines like the Rio Coastal that coil badly even though they are properly stored, stretched & rinsed/cleaned. Also, how satisfied are we with line performance from all manufacturer we've used? Maybe Rate Each Manufacturer 0 -5 & touch on lines you like or lines you despise. Let's air it out, Winter is coming.
  3. Peanut Bunker Imitations are also a must in the Fall. They are easy to tie & I favor Crease Flies with Rattles and small High Ties. You'll also pick up fish with larger sub surface patterns, look for designs that have lifelike swimming action, contrast & don't foul easily. Try to match the size of whatever bait might be present.
  4. The pattern can be tied sparse & sise can be varied. The clear mono thread let's the Bill''s Body Braid show & the Blond pattern is modified to incorporate the principles of a High Tie. Really is a Lethal Finger Mullet. I'll often work a touch of fluorescent yellow into the fly, Bass seem to key on this. I'll do so subtly like this: Plus I like to carry a few where it's a bit more pronounced near the cheeks & it fades into the body imperceptibly. Lastly, big fan of Bubblegum also, great to have a few of these handy. Have to clearcoat the eyes still but take a look how that Bubblegum over Pearl really gives a necessity contrast. This one is tied on a 3/0 Circle Hook (Gamma SC15). That's all Bucktail with a touch of Angel Hair & some Mega Mushy in the middle.
  5. Much to consider here. Fly line manufacturers are and have been officially blatantly lying and completely throwing fly line standards out the window for quite some time now. Rod manufacturers have been doing the same thing for quite some time as well. ...and now, is if thing's aren't messed up enough, we now have an ocean of compound tapers to sift through and it seems like most of them cast great at certain distances and horrendous at other distances not to mention they load some rods well and other rides not well enough. WOW. I feel pity for the customer. And since we are all customers, I pity us all. Matching a fly rod to a fly line requires feel and you hit it on the head right there my friend. Once we either study a rod on a Load Board or we measure it with a Common Cents system, we should have a general idea of what we are looking for in terms of total castable grain weight. But that's not enough. We also have to consider the compound taper and try to make a selection based on the type of fishing we're going to be doing. Bottom line is many many fly fishermen are going to be disappointed and there will be countless attempts by customers to return fly lines at point of purchase - due to "Performance Not As Advertised" issues. The problems we have clearly identified and communicated in this thread have chronicled the issues that persist in the fly fishing industry. Fly rods are often not what they are advertised to be. Fly lines are frequently not what they are advertised to be. At this point we have only two predictive tools at our disposal to select a fly line and we really need both of them working together to make it as easy as possible to accomplish what used to be a simple matter of purchasing with confidence, like you would buy a loaf of bread or milk. Give it the old squeeze, check the expiration date, get the loaf with sesame seeds or without..etc. It's definitely a good idea to measure the rod and the line, and it's also beneficial to review the taper of the fly line and then attempt to make a predictive best guess/purchase. Then, you test cast the line, at various distances, with the rod you are lining. As you point out, there is just no substitute for feel as that is the final deciding factor that determines what is suitable and what isn't. Unfortunately, this is the best advice we can give our readers.
  6. Joe Brooks Blond inspired me to make an Electric Mullet pattern a couple decades ago and it's kind of been a real go to for me, which has also evolved a little bit over the years. Looks great in the water, really undulates & works really well. I will usually fish this on a Fast Sinking line or an Intermediate. This pattern features a little fluorescent yellow and is also sporting the grey dorsal color. I tie Herring patterns also with this type of tie. Also it gets away from the Deceiver type pattern so deliberately no saddle hackles are used. It features Bill's Body Braid on the Hook Shank and the Tail is Mega Mushy over Bucktail. The Body Wing utilizes Bucktail for a base and then a layer of angel hair another layer of Bucktail a little bit more angel hair and then the fluorescent yellow angel hair topped with grey SF fibers then gray Bucktail and then darker Grey Angel hair for the topping. The pattern can be varied in size & colors & it really clobbers Stripers. Here it is in Electric White.
  7. Scrambling to get a few more Peanut Bunker whipped up, took advantage of the nice rainy weather we had today.
  8. Good idea to put up the methodology behind Popovic''s Banger, both the way he retrieves it quickly hand over hand so that it actually does chug along and also the interchangeability of the different heads you can go big and go small with them. When we have small bait around a more slender popper as a good idea. here is a hard body design that has always been a go-to for me.
  9. 1 Ton I believe
  10. Fall should be, and usually is, a time of year when you will encounter blizes. I would point out that a full Sinking line delivers most patterns, even poppers very effectively & your fly reaches the proper depth mostly because of it not because are using weighted fly. That said, over the past 35 years I have yet to have a single season where small Olive or Root beer over White #4 or #6 fly, usually Clousers, on very light 8#-12# tippet didn't at one point or another rock it - especially so from shore & when Bluefish aren't mixed in. I also tend to chase blitzes by Jet Ski or on my Skiff & I've had 50 to 100 fish days on nothing but Crease Flies & Poppers. Under these types of circumstances, with Blues & Bass both hammering whatever bait is around, nothing beats surface commotion & you can absolutely throw the small Clouser out the window in favor of a loud, rattling surface pattern or species specific patterns which can be imitated by Crease flies or small Deceivers. I've primarily used Full Sinking lines, both from the Skiff & from shore. I'll occasionally mix in an Intermediate line as needed based on Tide. In my opinion if you are fishing strictly from Shore you're best off with an Intermediate, unless you get onto some jetties or outflows where you have some depth or stronger current, at which point like I said it's the full sinking head type lines that will really shine. When you hit a big time blitz, it's pretty fun to throw a popper and yes, they can be very wind resistant. They will test your ability to generate line speed but also force you to open your loop to accomodate the drag & you can destroy Blitzes on them. You can focus on small flies for now, as they are the best bet for stalking around the shore when nothings showing but trust me, the next time you enjoy a bottle of wine, save the cork! That wsy you'll have options & options help you match up to the conditions. Personally, if I had only a Clouser during a fall Blitz, I'd be pretty bummed to say the least Sometimes regular household items can work pretty good if you combine them in the right way. Grab a chop saw, a drill, some adjustable tounge & groove pliers, some foil & Super 77 or some paint, some buctail/saddle feathers, flash of choice, fly eyes & estaz, some intact cure glue & you can whip up a pretty effective Blitz Buster variation of Bob's Banger. I've even tied this fly with a beer cap on the front of it as well and like I said it's pretty dang good in a full on Blitz. (as are poppers for Spin-Fishermen so it's not like we are reinventing the wheel here)
  11. I rotated a Wonderbread & Blurple Greenpoint Swimmer into and out of my plug bag for a couple of seasons. Smaller swimming plugs have become available in the last decade and single hook Danny's are definitely the ticket at times. At other time's we just need/want that Bomber type shape & the Greenpoint Swimmer is a nice, deep swimming plug that if used in shallower water can get hung up a lot of times, or literally go down and just dredge the Sandy Bottom- rendering it ineffective where Bombers or Mabos or Redfins don't. This is due in part to the incrediblly beefy Metal Lip that all of the swimming Greenpoint plugs are fitted with. In current, the Greenpoint digs right in and goes to work. The paint jobs on all Greenpoints are pretty fun & the fact that they are a custom wood Bomber type Swimmer is pretty cool. Definitely a good plug when you have some water depth, they bite in better and run deeper than any Bomber/Swimmer type plug can - which at times from shore causes some to interpret as a real curse - even though the same curse is an advantage in deeper water. One way I found to kind of control this is - if fishing slower water, I will really dramatically slow the retrieve down. The enormous Siwash hooks on the back were also problems, once I swapped them out with flag tails, I got better wobble out of them. The reason for this is the plug is relatively light at just about 1 oz & the Siwash pretty much overwhelms it, causing horrendous drag. I have a pretty high powered homemade current tank and it was obvious after about 1 second of testing the plug what needed to happen and that was it I needed to get that siwash hook off of it and try something else. Under nightly fishing conditions, which included daily freshwater rinses, some sort of galvanic corrosion was occurring inside each plug & I had to stay on top of this issue as the rust was bleeding right through. Here is an example of the bleeding that occurred from the inside out and it wound up ruining a beautiful plug which is going to get spray painted and put back into service at some point. I'm thinking a nice chartreuse dorsal stripe and a nice coat of pearly white for the belly. Seemed to me like Bombers pretty much take care of everything the Greenpoint Swimmers do, so Ieventually I cooled off on them & retired most of my Greenpoints Swimmer's - with the exception of the Blurple bad boys which I have a bit of a love affair with - I'm not going to lie. There are some other really interesting and effective Greenpoint plugs. one is the Peanut Bunker which I find to be deadly. The other is the Greenpoint Pencil which is among the more uniquely shaped floating Pencils you will find. The rounded body design really lets this Pencil dance and basically the nose rides right up out of the water and the tail rolls all over the place as you retrieve it & bounce it. the benefit is it takes almost no effort to get this Pencil dancing. The drawback is it's so light that you have to make sure you have a rod rated 3/4 of an ounce ti about 2 or possibly 3 oz in order to load up and throw this thing any distance. I've Heard lots of people say they cast terrible but when I look at the rod they are using to throw the Greenpoint Pencil I just start laughing. An overwhelming percentage of people that say this lure casts bad or that lure casts bad are actually using the wrong rod for the wrong job. But that's another story let's not digress.
  12. Yes, the Anadro lines I was previously considering were on this page - which coincidentally lists all the taper measurements (nice to have) - but fails to list the grain weight of the full castable head. With compound heads, it would be nice to know each head section''s grain weight, in addition to most importantly knowing the total weight of the castable portion of line. If we had this information, which we don't, we could go ahead and match the particular line with a particular rod that we've unfortunately had to measure with the common cents system Knowing the grain weight of the total castable portion of fly line allows us to confidently know that we are loading a rod optimally. Some casters are able to fully load a rod with their casting stroke while other casters don't. Each type of Caster would benefit from knowing this information in advance as it can be used to predict how a fly line will truly perform. Once a Caster knows the optimal grain weight range they are looking for, they no longer have to buy two or even three fly lines to figure out which one matches a certain Rod best.
  13. Great point Graeme. Also to be considered is what rod? A true 5wt or one that is off - & if so, by how much?
  14. This post brings me peace and quiet and nothing but the sound of the cricket Symphony playing as the moon takes over after a long day. Two thumbs up Tin Boat!