CaryGreene

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About CaryGreene

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  • About Me:
    I love the Canal!!
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly Fishing and Tying, Saltwater & Freshwater Fishing, Boating and Jet Skis.
  • What I do for a living:
    Director of North American Retail for Benjamin Moore Paints

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  1. I also fish at 10wt quite a bit. The fly line tip has a loop in it and it connects to the Leader Butt via a Perfection Loop. Then there is one single blood knot, connecting the heavy butt section to the lighter midsection. It's not a large profile.knot at all. It's a simple five turn knot, which if snugged down properly causes no issues at all. Give it a try and see what you think. I've been using these leaders for the past 20 years and never had any issues related to knot sizes. Lightning Leaders have only two Blood Knots. In order to facilitate a straight line presentation, the Blood Knot is absolutely the proper knot to use.
  2. 50# Triple Fish material would be suitable for some 7wt lines and most 6wt lines as well. It has a diameter of .028" - meanwhile, the 60# Triple fish would be suitable for 8wt lines as it has a diameter of .031". It's also close enough to match with a 9wt line, though most likely not optiamal. The 80#, at .035" would be good for 10wt lines. It generally doesn't matter if the Tippet matches your Butt material but ideally, you'd like your Butt and Midssection to match - though it is easily possible to still make a very workable leader even if Butt and Mid-Sections don't match. Avoid combining Mono and Fluorocarbon with blood knots. That said, by all means, a Mono leader's mid section will work fine with a Fluorocarbon tippet as well. Use a no slip knot lke the Harvey knot (since has been referred to as the Orvis knot, though no one at Orvis invented that knot, as George Harvey was the first to use it).
  3. Hi C, Couple of questions okay - What Sized(es) Line are you making Leaders for? I'm assuming you're saltwater fishing?
  4. Out of curiosity, how many sections did your Leaders feature?
  5. Hi Niveker, thank you for the cool feedback!! Really glad to hear things were working well. Any day we get on the water is a good one, catching is a bonus not always fated to happen. Sounds like you had a great day!. I came to believe at some point, that sheer time on the water accounts more than any other factor, towards successful catching. Think about how much time gulls spend NOT flying. They seem to know when nothing's happening. I hope you get another opportunity soon! Do check in when that happens, and in the meantime, Happy 4th!
  6. Hi Snookster, you bet it's interesting! Thanks for posting the info for us!
  7. Hi Jake, Seaguar makes very consistent Fluorocarbon and that's been a long time. Favorite of mine along with Yozuri HD Pink. I would classify the Yozui as more of a medium and the Seaguar as more of medium-stiff. Any of the major brands are pretty decent and it really comes down to getting a good price on the stuff because it's not cheap!
  8. Another thing you can actually do with that Airflo system is connect a Lightning Leader directly to the tip of the Head, making the set up only a 2-piece system, Running-Line to Head. If water depths are 3 to 10', this would work fine. The Sink Tips are mainly for deeper rips and areas where you have significant water depth - they also add castable grain weight to the Head.
  9. Hi bmac! Another day in the life, here on SOL! Happy to give my thoughts on this. Many of you probably might have guessed but I've never directly said it, so I should say that I've fished all over the world for a wide range of "big-game" species. Years ago (25 years maybe?) the bimini twist became necessary to help me hang onto my expensive Fly-Line, but I had a couple of instances that caused me move to a Double-Bimini. I lost a big Tarpon after about an hour long fight. My single Bimini came back, but fly line was comprimised. The Gel Spun backing had apparently cut through my bombproof Whipped Loop. I took out a spare reel, stripped off the line and went to Double-Bimini and proceeded to land 4 more big fish (all 150# range), with no issues and no signof wear on the Whipped-Loop. Piror to that experience, I lost a fly line on a Permit that was tailing (eating crabs) over a Coral-Bed. The fish ran and I got tight, and then, <blip> the line went limp. I reeled it in and found the single Bimini intact but the loop was cut open - an obvious case of abrasion failure. The Bimini is as close as we're ever going to get to a 100% strength connection from a knot standpoint. With Dacron (Micron) backing, a Single Bimini is fine. But, with braids and with Gel spun, the Double Bimini seems to not cut into the fly line, where as the single can on very large, hard pulling fish. By creating two loops, not only is the knot tougher against abrasion, but the extra loop also helps to distribute the stress on the loop of the fly line over a greater area. This helps prolong the life of your fly line by preventing the backing from cutting into the coating of the welded loop. When fighting big fish, the last thing you want to think about is the strength of your knots. Give the double bimini twist a try and never worry about your backing connection again! Another good question. We have to keep in mind the cost of solving the need for increased capacity - which is often done to fit fly lines on spools and to give us extra protection against big-game, which might take off on us and go on some staggering runs. Braids that are more "round" or "RADIAL" in design are less likely to cut into themselves when packed on a spool than braids that are square (the worst choice) and flat (spectra braids like Jerry Brown or Cortland or Sci-A). As long as a spectra braid is packed on the spool with tension, you won't have any problems. Too much tension will bend the spool. Too little or too insonsistent will cause a massive potential problem. Round braids don't have this issue. They're much like monofilament on a conventional reel. They go on and off endlessly without any issue. Gel Spun backing is what we've used for years. It's not the most advanced material out there, but it works if you spool it properly. Is white 131 even better. yup! It's also EVEN MORE expensive. So you have to consider that and also, lenghts >150 yards are often not available so you have to have a fly shop access their 1500 yard spools to fill multiple reels to 250 or 300 yard capacities. (something to keep in mind) Albies and Bonito also have excellent eyesight are easily spooked. They can see a D/C Head. You can try a 9' or 10' Lighting Leader, but being stealthy matters when Albie fishing on days when the water isn't broken by strong wind. Therefore, try an Intermediate Quick Loading compact line with a Clear Tip for Albies. They afford a whole lot more stealth. In broken water, this matters a whole lot less. There are some excellent Clear Tips out there.
  10. Looking forward to a full report!
  11. Hi JRT, great feedback on the RIO OBS, we appreciate being given in this thread! If you fish a lot - and from the sound of it you do, geting three seasons out of a single line is very good. The cracking behind the head sounds like basic wear and tear. I did notice a change in Taper schematics from the older OBS to the newer ones. It seems like the Striper line took on the design of the older OBS. The Striper taper now looks like this: Where as, the newer OBS taper looks like this:
  12. Absolutely Paul, I neglected to mention that when you connect the White Suffix 131 or the white Cortland Gel Spun Backing, you'll want to use a well tied Double Bimini that is tied off properly. The beautiful Tanya was assisting me the other day as we were setting up her reels for this season, she's a Jamaican Bikini-Clad Paddle Board fly-fishing phenom! LOL Anyways, we made three video shrts on how to easily tie this knot so she could practice it. Your post kind of tags having to do this as a next step becasue once you select your backing of choice -there's really no other way to connect these slippery braided materials to a Fly Line. You'll need to use the Double Bimini (not a Single Bimini). Video 1: Brief explanation of how we go about gaining extra capacity on a fly reel: Video 2: Simple "Single-Bimini" Video 3: Easy Double Bimini
  13. Hi Mallard - Quack-Quack!! LOL I had a feeling you were going to give this a try. Not surprised by your resutls but really interesting to hear your thoughts. The Sci-A Sonar Sink 3-5-7 has a very powerful taper and if used in conjunction with a Lightning-Leader, it will turn over even larger flies with ease. You're quite welcome for the insights and we thank you for your feedback and ongoing thoughts as they may occur! Nice work!! Absolutely true. BTW, a pair of leather gloves will work fine to straighten a leader as well, but the Leader Straightener really helps and it's compact & easy to carry. Again, very stoked to hear you're having markedly better results with the Lightning Leaders!
  14. Hi Killiefish, The step on both lines, the older Pike/Musky line and the newer Predator lines is unweighted. It's simply swelled running line (packed with air cells). The increased diameter is only for suporting the head a bit during the cast and it's really designed to help the caster haul more easily, opposed to trying to haul fine diameter running line. Therefore the older "Pike/Musky" line has only 29' of castable head. It's simply 475 grains in an 11wt. It has a weightless 12' rear step. The Newer "Predator" line has a 32' head, which weighs 475 grains total and 450 grains at 30'. It has a weightless 13' rear step. According to my postal scale, the newer Predator line weighs 435 grains at 29', which makes the older Pike/Musky line 15 grains heavier at 29'. Obviously, the newer Predator line is 25 grains heavier in all, becasue it has 3' more of castable, weighted head. Regarding the value proposition, clearly any premium line, manufactured in the last 20 years, is well worth paying half price for compared to a newer line at full pop. You could get two for the price of one. That's a no brainer! As far as which is better, my assessment is they're basically the same thing. I doubt most casters would notice a 25 grain difference on an 11wt fly-rod. Personally, I'd like the slightly longer +3' of head, but with heads under 35', again it really doesn't matter. Pike flies are very large. They spawn in the spring and in flooded areas, you can target them from shore, often in spots that have significant brush and little room for back casting. If you go after them from a boat, you still might be navigating significant cover. A head under 35' if perfect for that sort of fishing. I see very little difference between the older line and the newer line. If anything, RIO rebranded (as i said in my first post on this topic) this line and yes, they tweaked it slightly. It now has more pronounced Compound Tapers built into the Head, instead of a smoother, more progressive Compound Taper. Still, they're both basically a standard highly swelled Triangle concept - with the heavier line positioned behind the lighter line. **Note for our readers and for Killie: Other manufacturers approach this application (Pike and Musky fishing) differently. Instead of designing a line that has a Compound Triangle that starts off very swelled and tapers down in distinct sections, they do the opposite. They Swell the Taper towards the front of the Head, then use a sharp triangle to taper to the Tip. Which line casts better? The answer to that question is proably "Indvidual Preference." A dramatically swelled compound Triangle has no problem doing this job, neither does a reverse triangle which has a little extra power up front. It's basically just two differing ways to do a job. Pike flies are generally unweighted, but bulky. They aren't hard to turn over with the right 70%-20%-10% Lightnign Leader. In fact, they turn over fine on a 60%-30%-10% Lightning Leader also. For years, we would just use 11wt Double Taper lines to handle Pike fishing. We would cut back on the tip about 3'. This would give us a short, sharp triangular Front Taper with a smooth, very long uniform taper behind it. Worked fine, but we couldn't "shoot" a cast, we'd have to hold the Head in the air and inch our way out to the target. With often limited back-cast space, this was a problem, we we began chopping the DT lines off at 35" and whipping loops into them, then connecting them to running lines. In effect, we made the exact same things as they're selling today, but unfortunately, it wasn't an integrated Head.
  15. Well, you'll have to give your feedback here once you try it. Make sure to rinse it in cold water and sponge it down regularly. RIO Agent-X can also be used to revitalize it from time to time.