CaryGreene

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About CaryGreene

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  • About Me:
    I love the Canal!!
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fly Fishing and Tying, Saltwater & Freshwater Fishing, Boating and Jet Skis.
  • What I do for a living:
    Director of North American Retail for Benjamin Moore Paints

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  1. I'm never one to endorse any particular rod publicly, mainly because there's so many really good rods out there. Most important thing is that the rods don't fail you and that you're happy with them and also the warranties that accompany them.
  2. Listen you guys think you're all hard-core & **** but don't pull out a sand spike & drop your rod into it and then open up a pop unless you know for a fact that Trick Shot Bart isn't on a soak near you.
  3. I literally presented the notion of keeping certain rod series around to Far Banks Enterprises & they kind of turned their noses up at it and we went on to the next subject. There are actually a number of ways this could be done. Firstly, they might keep every single thing about the blank the same and also keep the name of the blank. For example the Z Axis was a kick ****** series for freshwater fishing. Take the same exact blank, reintroduce it and maybe scale back the components and offer it as midpriced rod. $350. BAM. It would sound like hotcakes. I guess I wasn't wearing board shorts and a t-shirt when I presented the idea. LOL
  4. Ya' think!? (said with eyebrows raised). Sounds like you should do a little research and come up with a company that takes a hell of a lot better care of you and makes a product that can handle your intended applications. Every fly rod has a kind of sweet spot, depending on the rods weight rating and the type of blanket is. Throwing weighted lines certainly generates very high line speeds and when you are checking and ducking you need a rod that can easily handle some load - especially if you are using multiple piece travel rods, which by the way - is totally reasonable to do. Smaller companies probably don't do a ton of breakage research and of course breakage happens mostly at the ferrule. Companies that do a lot of r&d take great lengths to design ferrules they can handle loads within certain tolerances that the rods are designed to respond to.
  5. Warranties are indeed changing, like most good things in the world eventually do. Many people misunderstand manufacturer reasons for these changes. Most of these changes have very little to do with customers abusing rods by the way. From a marketing perspective, a fly rod series has about four years of life before it goes out of vogue and the rod manufacturer then has a hard time even giving back stock away. Well. I'm sure they could give it away but they'd have to sell it at a huge discount in order to do so. For this reason manufacturers look at sales forecasts when they make a rod and they try to make only enough that they feel will sell. That way they avoid taking a beating and they move on to the next latest and greatest rod which the consumer demands and also buys. Does it make sense to have thousands of blanks sitting around so you can honor a lifetime guarantee, when you are making multiple rod series and you are changing all of them out every 4 years? No. It does not. Manufacturers want to entice you to move on to the next Rod series and they also can't afford to back up a warranty with a large quantities of blanks sitting around waiting for existing rods in circulation to be broken. Consumers are the ones who are fueling all of this. If you/I/we stop buying rods with crap warranties than sales will begin to sag for that company that's not backing up their product. As it should be. My advice flat out is don't buy a rod if it doesn't have a satisfactory warranty. You my friend are the judge of what is satisfactory by the way. Meanwhile other companies do back their product up quite nicely and therefore, they are capturing the market accordingly. One thing hasn't changed. When I spend a lot of money on a blank, I'm talking more than $800 or so, I don't want any hassles from some prick in a customer service department 5 years from now when I fall on my rod and saw it off at the handle (which I have done once in my life by the way & It was a 9-ft Hardy 4-weight Superlight and I was fishing in Satan's Kingdom on the Farmington River at about 1:00 in the morning. I had caught over 25 large fish and I was making my way through the gorge near the water when I just went over.) I remember coming to my senses and standing up and I was in disbelief that I wasn't seriously injured. I was standing there in the middle of the night holding on to the handle of my favorite fly rod I had ever owned up to that point. I bought it for almost $600 and I bought a pretty fancy reel to go with it, which was also from Hardy. I was shaking I was so upset. The potential loss of a giant financial commitment to a young working professional, who had saved up for over a year for that rod and reel, was enough to make my hands tremble on the drive home. Back then the Hardy rods were made in serviced in England and so obviously I did not get fast turnaround but guess what? They replaced the rod with a slightly newer model called a Superlight Plus. I didn't love it as much but I still wasn't going to complain because I felt very fortunate to have a new rod as I certainly caused the break by what would irrequivably and undebatably be deemed: user error!! In other words I was quite happy with the warranty and even though it took more than 3 months for them to get me a new rod. I really appreciated Hardy for taking care of me and I thought their service was above and beyond the call of duty in every respect. Of course Hardy took the gloves off and they opened US bases of distribution in order to expedite warranty service and of course increase sales in the US market. I certainly would want no part of a rod made by a company that wouldn't look to try to take care of me in a fair way. Let this be a notice to anyone who purchases a rod. Make sure you're okay in other words make sure you're content, with whatever the warranty is for that manufacturer. Understand warranties may change however usually when you buy a rod with an existing warranty the manufacturer, if still in business, will try to honor whatever existing warranty is applicable to the blank you bought. Obviously sometimes they may change the model on you, as happened to me in the instance I described. Bottom line is if you're going to shell out a substantial amount of money, It's nice to know that God forbid if you ever break your rod, at least you'll have something to fall back on hopefully. Companies come and go all the time so purchasing a rod from a company that is here today may not be what you think it is. A flash in the pan Rod manufacturer can easily go out of business and become bankrupt, which would void any existing warranty on any of the rods they sold. Long-standing companies can also be sold and new owners can change all sorts of things including warranty policies. Existing rod companies who have been around for a long time can also just as easily go out of business. Spending a lot of money on rod shouldn't be done without some research and at the end of the day you have to go with a company that you feel will be best positioned and most willing to take care of you.
  6. Why are we looking to buy another rod from the same manufacturer if their rods that you have purchased are snapping like candy canes? Just curious. Each time they break it cost you 50 bucks on top of being out of a rod and we are now coming into season. Sounds a little sketchy.
  7. Dave Sekres who used to teach at the Nissequag fly fishing school out at Caleb Smith State Park still lives in Queens and he would be a great guy too to touch base with. PM me if you want his phone number. If he is still doing casting instruction, he's the best I've ever seen.
  8. Yes, I would rate the Take as a very versatile Stripping Basket, but a little Pricey at $109 suggested retail price. It's fully crushable, has the cones & the non-mesh bottom and it has a great belt & a rod holder. Perfect design. Far better than the KR Line Tender with the mesh bottom. The Take basket is also UV resistant & it handles glaring, hot, sunny days like a champ. If you fell on this basket it would likely cushion your landing. Here's a video of it in action:
  9. You are absolutely entitled to have your expectations fully met. A good guide would know this about you because they'd take the time to figure out what you were looking for. Then, they'd provide it for you, right down to the soggy sandwich if that all you wanted or expected.
  10. I used to be a Drift Boat Captain on the Upper Delaware watershed back in the early 90's & I've guided saltwater also & the 20% rule is a good tip percentage for either. Tipping a guide is very similar to eating out. Better servers work at better restaurants & they captain better tables & sometimes bigger sections as well. Tipping etiquette applies to numerous service industries and fishing is just one of them. Good service tends to penetrate the not so nice personalities by providing hospitality at a personalized & high level. I'm sure it can be quite a challenge for some where others may see it as an opportunity to test themselves & eventually wow the client. I can recall having a few challenging clients and no matter how good the service was, they tipped poorly - in addition to being rather miserable to be around for the day. When I began surveying the clients prior to going out & then sending them a thank you note,a few flies & a survey, I started unlocking things I could do better. Some of those clients that maybe didn't tip up to what I expected or "hoped for" taught me that hoping is not a recipe for getting. To get excellent tips, you have BE excellent. As far as clients who are not nice, there are usually reasons - mostly baggage. That's why meeting their expectations and being professional is so vital to building a business. It's tempting to be increasingly less responsive, curt & even distant or rude back to some people who have a knack for making a potentially wonderful day on the water more like having a root-canal. A better method of handling them is to stay consistent with your service & maybe give them a little space. The guide will know if ultimately he was successful because there is no better measure of man's success than his paycheck. Most of the time, guides get paid what they deserved to be paid. One of the steps to building a successful guiding business is to build a great client-base. Doing that takes years of passionate dedication. It's like going to a barber to get a haircut. If you walk in expecting a $15 "super-cut" but you get the below, I'm pretty sure you'll not only tip a little more but you'll become a raving fan of your great barber.
  11. A 20% Tip is fair & your guide will appreciate you for doing the right thing. Your post touches on a subject that transcends a person's personal philosophy of tipping. The truth is, we need to examine this conundrum not from the client's point of view but from the guides point of view, because that's where the only answer that matters resides. Whenever I took somebody out for an entire day & gave them a true five-star experience, I would expect a 20% tip or thereabouts and if I didn't get it then I would do the same thing you are doing. I would look at myself and ask myself if I did something, or even a number of things wrong. This coming from a person who used to guide. I've done a couple hundred trips over the years. Guiding is about creating five-star hospitality but also it's about technical instruction. Most fishermen, no matter how good, if they are being guided, they will benefit from local knowledge on the watershed at the very least. Most people who take guided trips need a lot more than just that in terms of instruction. If we are talking fresh water we have multiple hatches going on which need to be deciphered. Insects are behaving in all different ways and that translates to how you fish flies. There's a world of knowledge there that can be imparted to a visitor, especially one who might be fishing the watershed for the very first time or maybe someone who just does it a few times a year. Guiding is all about serving and teaching and making someone smile. Good guides go above and beyond and generally they get tipped well almost every single time they take someone out. Guides who get less than 20% probably served a soggy submarine sandwich from Subway to their client with a straight face, while they pulled the boat over somewhere and the client had to sit on a rock shivering while they ate and drank their can of pop. Take a look across the bank and you'll be daydreaming about two guys sitting in camping chairs, with little buddy heaters set up near them. They're sitting under a pop-up canopy and their guide is serving them an amazing lunch, probably with some wine or beer & some classy touches. Hors d'oeuvres? (Is it so hard for a guide to break out a triscuit with a little cream cheese & shrimp cocktail or perhaps some cool crackers and horseradish cheddar cheese pub spread?) That's a rhetorical question. The answer is it's not and I guarantee you 95% of all clients would never expect hors d'oeuvres on a fishing trip. But what if? Imagine a trip where the food is so good and the experience was so wonderful that you are left, 20 years later, by far remembering the experience more so than having a few chances to catch a fish. In order for a guide to create that experience he needs to prepare in advance. Imagine a growler full of craft beer being served from chilled mugs. Sure that drives the cost of the trip up a little bit, but then the client gets what they pay for, don't they? The same is true in salt water. A guide who just takes a client out, drives the boat around and hands the client a water or a beer is just a guide. There's a real good chance he won't get a 20% tip. But a guide who makes the day all about you & does everything possible to make sure you're comfortable, safe, hydrated, fed & happy is a 5-Star experience provider. They take numerous pictures of you in action. They ask lots of questions. They take the time to get to know you. They consult with you and find out what you're looking for out of the experience. They make the whole day all about you. A good guide is so good at fishing in that locale that they can take just about anybody out and catch a few fish. I've seen guides who hang their hat on this concept. They think that the key to the whole trip is at the client catches a fish and in fact, if the client doesn't catch a fish they offer the next trip free. These types of guides miss the entire point of guiding. When you go on a fishing trip it's not called a catching trip. Part of fishing is fishing and sometimes you don't catch. Guides try to avert this at all costs and 90% of the time they certainly can help you succeed. It isn't the act of fishing that a good guide is great at. Good guides create experiences. The kind of experiences clients rave about. Tips take care of themselves. From the guides perspective, if they feel like they did a great job and didn't get a very good tip, if at all, then they should first examine themselves. They may be aware of some of the things they did wrong. They may not be. Good guides survey their clients. They ask for feedback. They want to know if there was anything else they could have done that would have made the trip more enjoyable or more fun? Guides need feedback. Guides need to hone their craft and continually get better at what they do. Guides who don't do this stagnate. There are those rare goons running around out there that don't believe in tipping and you know what? There are plenty of guides out there who are a perfect match for them! Like the old saying goes, there is someone for everyone!! Good guides don't work with clients who don't tip. But it's not because good guides are snobs or only interested in working with elite clients. Good guides get good tips. Just like good waiters get good tips. Clients who generally don't tip will be more inclined to give a good tip to a good guide. Good waiters Don't go to work expecting to get tipped poorly. They work at good restaurants. Generally they handle the better tables also. Preferred or repeat customers generally get the better tables. Good guides are in demand and believe it or not repeat business accounts for a vast majority of the trips they do. Good clients book repeat business. Good guides build their client bases year over year. They highly value their clients and they will do just about anything for them. Their clients are more than just their clients. Their clients become their friends. In fact they treat their clients as if they were family. Your guide is obviously a good guide. You are a obviously a great client. The fact that you are even here asking this question screams, "Hey Guide - whoever you are that is taking this guy out-- Cherish his business. Communicate with him better. Do something to make up for causing him to wonder if he did something wrong. Go above and beyond. Give him the best trip you've ever given anyone in your entire life!!!"
  12. Any Stripping Basket with a mesh bottom or any type of bottom with a bunch of holes in it is useless in salt water, especially if you like to wade and here's why: When you go to shoot your line if your line is inside the flooded basket, then it is laying in & under the water so shooting is greatly inhibited. God forbid if you have an intermediate sinking running line, which literally would be underwater while you are trying to shoot it. Game over. Try throwing a bunch of floating line laying on the water's surface and then casting and shooting. It's the same principle. These types of soft stripping baskets are intended to be packable line management solutions. They can be useful for boat fishing. Rather than having your line laying all over the deck of a boat it would be an advantage to have it in a small basket in front of you. The closer the line is to the shooting guide the less energy it's going to take for the airborne head to reach its target at maximum speed. Even if I was strictly a boat fisherman I still wouldn't want a basket like this because it lacks cones and depth. Also these types of baskets are tangle magnets. By that I mean there's no cones on the inside to keep wads of wine somewhat separated. They also aren't very deep which kind of sucks in line easily spills out over the sides. A huge benefit to a hard stripping basket with an ergonomic backside, no holes, adequate depth and some cones is that you can stand in water from your thighs to your waist and it will create a water free pocket where you can put the line as you are retrieving and then, once your head is arialized you can let it rip with no resistance & minimal tangles. If you are having problems bumping into a hard stripping basket then it may be too large? Try something ergonomic and maybe a little smaller but still deep enough & with cones. I've never had a single problem such as you are describing and I've been using the same stripping basket for over 20 years. A lot of guys make their own stripping baskets and unfortunately they aren't ergonomic and I see a lot of DIY photos where the basket has holes in the bottom of it. Not a great idea for a surfcaster.
  13. Interesting nights TB & certainly many talking points in the details of your experiences over the years. On the topic of reels, two general observations come to mind. The first is taken from examining pitch flip large mouth bass bait asters. Most have small, closed cages with level winds & are not magged. Some of nicer "bait casters" are a joy to fish & they cast awesome, providing the bait has a little weight to it 1/4 oz to 3/4 oz. They often feature centrifugal braking systems, opposed to magnetic cast controls. **for our readers, below is some brief detail on this topic. Centrifugal brake blocks work only during the first part of the cast. Think about what happens when you make a cast. You use your rod to slingshot an amount of weight (lure and line) towards a target. Your spool instantly begins turning at a high rate of speed as your cast sends your bait out into the distance. A mistake a lot of guys make here is with their casting stroke. A herky-jerky stroke, opposed to a smooth, sharp acceleration will cause problems because,, if y our spool is spinning at a greater rate than the lure is traveling, then your line will get loose within the reel and you will end up with a backlash. The centrifugal brake is the control that allows the line to feed off of the spool at the same rate of speed as the cast. As the spool is spinning, gravity will make the centrifugal brakes extend from the center of the spool to run along a shelf inside the side panel of the reel. Kind of like the way brake pads work on a drum brake in cars. Most reels will have six such brake pads that you can turn on or off, usually by sliding a small lever for each brake. By locking each individual brake, you are telling the reel how many brake pads to let out to run along the drum. Less brakes equals longer spool turning whereas more brakes will slow down the spool faster. The drawback to the centrifugal brakes is that you MUST remove the side panel of the reel in order to adjust them. An experienced caster does just fine with well designed Centrifugal brakes. Most anglers have trouble though as casting technique in crucially important - as are the decisions you make when it's windy (need more heavier payloads that wind can't mess with). When we Mag a reel, we start by disengaging the brakes. On one side of the reel there will be a small dial that moves your magnetic brakes either closer or further away from the spool. Turning the dial one way will decrease the distance of the magnets to the spool and turning the other way will increase the distance between magnets and spool (this will only be noticeable if there is a great deal of float and adjustability - If the knob doesn't move the magnets very far as it's rotated and there's a limited amount of ability for the magnets to get quite far from the spool, The end result will be displeasing to most casters. Let's explore this a bit further. Magnetic brakes work on the principal that the closer the brakes are to the spool, the faster the spool will slow down within the cast and by default, the further the magnets are from the spool the freer the spool is to spin. The magnetic brakes also only work with the first part of the cast and in principal work the same way as the centrifugal brakes. The biggest advantage to magnetic brakes is that you can easily adjust the magnetic brakes by turning the dial and without having to remove the side plate. The caster uses his thumb in order to stop the spool from spinning as the lure approaches the water surface. Failure to do this equals an instantaneous backlash. This is where most casters goof up even when they launch a good cast. Spinning reels don't suffer from this problem and hence most people spin fish. Thumb-Burner!! Great profile name. Regarding Centrifugal brakes vs Magnetic brakes, there is a lot to be said on this point and it's probably a whole separate thread. Also why fix something that ain't broke? If you prefer the brake blocks & don't mind opening the side-plate & adjusting and also if you feel you get better performance once you set up for anticipated conditions, then we're to the races, as they. I was absolutely in the same frame of mind as you until about 5 years ago, when I began to prefer custom Mag controls. One of the main reasons was how fast modern Bearings have become. The others were because I was using balanced Mag Controls with exceptional float & balanced magnet distribution advanced rods, competition shafts & extremely light spools. I've been using certified ABEC-9 bearings in 4 different reels, which are dry running, for the past 5 years. (I have never opened the bearings nor have I ever lubricated them, nor were they ever lubricated & I fish a lot) ABEC-5 bearings are typically lubricated with trace amounts of silicone-lube & they are the most common bearings you will find in most reels. It's also becoming more common to see ABEC-7' bearings used by so manufacturers & these are also lubricated with trace amounts of silicone lube. (There are numerous counterfeit bearings on the market so a lot of times people think they're using one type of bearing when they're really not. Also, If bearing seals are allowing water into the bearing race too easily, this is going to require constant cleaning and maintenance. The tracks that hold bearings eventually wear out because the bearings are harder than they are. Even with dry running bearings at some point you're going to need a new bearing track) Competition distance casting shafts are combined with these lightning fast bearings and these extremely light spools and the end result is extremely fast RPM's, speeds at which we could not achieve in the past. The onset of these advances, combined with improvements in the Mag Controls and not to mention Rod technology and the introduction of faster and faster & stronger blank advances, create optimal casting distances & easy in the field adjustments. All three of these more modern bearings are obviously very fast. Well designed Mag Controls are able to exert a lot more stopping power than Centrifugal Brakes. This means you can take that extremely fast-moving spool and slow it down a bit. Most Mag controls are side plates inside the reel & they slide along a shaft which is controlled by the control knob on the exterior of the reel. The rare earth magnet array usually consists of between 1 to 4 magnetic disks which are most often placed in a uniform line. As the spool spins, whichever side of the spool disc that the cast-control is on receives equal pressure as the spool edge passes by the array of magnets. Other Mag Controls might be placed in a circular formation so that they are spread out evenly and that each magnet is continually providing uniform pressure. These types of designs do seem smoother than the concept of magnets in a straight line. Most really good Mag Controls aren't really that good. It's because they're not highly adjustable. A Mag Unit that features a ton of adjustability and can move from very close to very far away from the spool is a game changer, especially if the magnets are positioned in a circular fashion rather than a straight line. In order to achieve what I am talking about, we're talking about a serious amount of fine tuning and extremely precise engineering -- all done to take full advantage of modern technology. This is a lot more effort than 99.5% of all fishermen are willing to go through when we consider.. Quite frankly, simple Centrifugal brakes, for daily fishing, will basically do the same thing as Magnetic brakes. They'll also even slow down a pretty fancy reel pretty well. Though Magnets do provide much more stopping power & they offer easier, in the field adjustments, if Magnets really aren't needed for most actual fishing, then why use them? Therefore we see Mags most often when guys are throwing heavier payloads long distances, or in situations where extra distance on a cast is routinely needed. To Thumb- Burner: Try a Century Slingshot Casting rod rated appropriately for 3/4 to 2+ oz. That is the best recommendation I have for throwing typical 1 5 oz lures & plugs till the cows come home. They load very easily. They have tons of smooth, fast, even power & they excell when battling big fish. Conventional saltwater reels seem to love them also. I suspect the reason for this is because they are a terrific match for people who can load & unload a rod smoothly. This is probably because even though the Slingshot rod are pretty fast they aren't overly stiff or hard to load. They're very accommodating. An extremely experienced caster will also get to the point where they can't get any more distance out of them, this is probably true of any rod though. I also like Lammy blanks for their smoothness, though I do like Century blanks more, for Conventional reels, as I've said.
  14. Yup, the Canal is a waterway. Swimming there would be like playing Hop-Scotch on a freeway.
  15. To the OP: I fish Tins & Plugs with Conventional Rods & Reels & have been doing to for 46 years now. I also use spinning rods & I fly fish too. It is actually possible to do what you want to do with conventional tackle & they're actually are some really good reasons to go this route. Most often I throw 1 1/2 oz, sometimes I will go as light as 3/4 oz & sometimes I'll go up two as heavy as 4.5 oz on some large plugs. Generally when I go heavy I break out Conventional rod that handles larger stuff. However for daily fishing purposes from the beach, I looked for a rod that had a real sweet spot at about 1.5 oz. Over the years what I discovered is that a rod's rating has become increasingly more influenced by marketing. Marketers realized if they increase the rods rating range more people buy it. In fact most rods can easily handle weight ranges outside of whatever they are rated for. It's up to the caster to adjust based whatever payload is being thrown. One thing is for certain, you will find every rod has a general sweet spot. I love the Century Slingshot rod series and I have fished a number of Slingshots hard over the last five years and they've made me a big fan. Lamiglas also makes some excellent conventional rods & some of their blanks will do what you want to do. There are many other choices out there including St Croix..etc. The rod is actually the easy part of this conversation. The reason most guys don't throw conventional rods & reels are numerous but at the same time, if you figure this game out the advantages are also numerous. The biggest single issue is the reel. It's extremely hard to find one out of the box that will handle 3/4 oz to 2+ oz optimally. Daily fishing involves dealing with wind. That rules out 95% of the conventional reels that you might be looking at because their mag controls are insufficient. The next issue is startup inertia. Most reels have very large spools and they take significant pull to make them function very easily, 3 oz is on the lighter end of what most reels do well with. The reason for this is that the spools are ginormous and many are designed for high capacity boat fishing. For this reason, customized conventional reels have an absolute niche spot in the surf casting community. Due to the pandemic these types of reels are hard to find. When you have a conventional reel made you generally either luck out and buy one that's already good to go or you have to wait a significant amount of time while your reel is being tweaked to the necessary specs. Another major issue is that most conventional reels come in right hand retrieve only. That could be an issue for many people. I personally use only left hand retrieve reels. Most of what you're going to find down in North Carolina is set up for beach fishing and you're hucking 3 to 6 oz regularly. Those types of reals suck for the application you would be applying them to. Based on your location I would recommend contacting Hatteras Jack and asking for his best recommendation on a magged, narrow spool, open cage, star drag reel that will throw 3/4 to 2 oz optimally. Another option might be to contact Jamie from PMR in England and see if he has any thoughts. Typically when people tweak reels, they use models that due to the machining, don't require too much custom fabrication on the parts. Abu Garcia, Akios/Omoto, Penn..etc. There are some reels out of the box that can be used with minimal issues for lighter duty plugging. Many have wider spools than desired, closed cages and unfortunately level wines. The Shimano Calcutta TE is one that you'll hear a lot of people have luck with problem is there though, they're not going to come anywhere near the distance that a custom reel will give you. That said you're going to have some definite disadvantages opposed to something that's customized. What you are looking for is an open cage design and a narrow spool with enough capacity to handle 200+ yards of 20# or 30# radial braid, or maybe #15 mono if you prefer. Most of these types of reels that are out there have to be magged. The last issue you'll have is a plethora of reels that might look promising but then when you're really look at them, not only is the spool too large and not only is the mag control insufficient but you'll probably be staring at a lever drag. The goal is to find a star drag reel that can be reliably adjusted during a fight from the beach. Most conventional reels are designed not with surf casters in mind but with the boating community as the customer base. Therefore, a surf fisherman can weed out about 90% of all conventional reels immediately. Customized conventional reels have a number of tweaks that help them achieve maximum distance with 3/4 oz to 2+ oz (and larger models that handle heavier payloads are also out there).