jabster

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About jabster

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  1. Interesting topic. There's no denying that the caster is the one making the accurate or not so accurate cast and not the rod. However there are rod/line combos that make it a bit easier to do so. On the field or with ample time to do the cast while fishing there's very little differences for me between rods, but in fast action fishing situations I find that some rod/line combos make things easier then others. I see nothing wrong with this concept even if I'm totally wrong with it
  2. Aki's are the best hooks. If they were a bit cheaper and would not rust so fast they would be my primary choice for 80% of the patterns I tie. The weight strength ratio, the shape and the point of the hook is just phenomenal on the Aki's. Big SL12's are prone to bend on super heavy pressure. The smaller sizes(1/0 to 4/0) are much stronger in my opinion when it comes to bend resistance. The proportions of the hook are so much better in the smaller sizes compared to the 6/0 and 8/0 sizes which are good hooks to, but not as strong in that sense then the smaller ones..
  3. I do not. The other fly has a tube extension and the other a tube+shank extension. The one that has only the tube as an extension is rigged by threading some mono through the tube, tying up a suitable knot at the end of the line and then pulling it inside the tube nice and tight. The other I rig by threading some mono through the tube and then using a loop knot to attach the shank to the tube. In both the extensions are attached to the hook by flattening(and braking the surface) the mono with pliers and then whipping it on to the hook with a generous amount of super glue. You only need a very short whip up for a very solid connection. Just be sure to have a good thread base on your hook when doing it. I've used that same rig for six years now. Since I started tying Bob Pop's Beast flies with a tube extension and not exclusively on mono. It has never failed. If you want a stringer hook back there then I would opt for a longer connecting whip up just in case. There is a reasonably detailed SBS on my blog if anyone wanders that way. I will try to find a photo or two about it if I can and post it up here to.
  4. I personally need more routine tying squids as I don't tie them very often. Takes me about 45min to make one as I'm in constant doubt about what i'm actually doing
  5. That very well might be. I've tested a lot lines for my rod and when I go below 380gr for the head weight that rod becomes very clumsy to cast. 400-450gr is it's sweet zone, but it can handle a line up to 500gr if need be. That's a lot of weight for a 10wt and I also usually like my lines pretty light in general so at least for me it's more of a 11-12wt rod than a 10wt.
  6. I have fished the 8' 10wt BAG quite a bit and it sure has it's place in my fishing. Pro's: - it's very nice with super big flies and aggressive sinking lines. The bend of the rod barely changes whether I m throwing a 11" piece of meat with it or a 4" slim deceiver. - it's fun, care free and efficient to fight fish with. - it's well build and thought through when it comes to its handle, butt and reelseat. Con's: - heavy(ish) for it's length - I hate casting it with anything longer than a 30' belly - even though it's stiff and fast for a glass rod it still needs some adjusting to when it comes to your casting rhythm. - I kinda wish I bought the 9wt instead of the ten, as the 10wt is more of a 11-12wt rod. I use same lines on it as i use on my 11wt Method. On the picture my buddy Ike is fighting a huge King Mack with my rod. So much fun!
  7. That needle stuff that you make is a very nice way to make them loops. If I wasn't so lazy when it comes to stuff like that, I would definately go that way to. I should also go the braided mono loop way at some point. Whipped loops at the end of the line have plenty of strength to pull on heavy fish with tight drags, but they don't last long that way as the loop on the leader tends to dig in to the fly line. But in general loop to loop is the only way to go if someone asks me.
  8. Yes, some braid that have a "hard" feel to them can cut the fly line especially if they are thin. Better to double your loop when that's the case.
  9. After a lot of testing, thinking and fishing, I think the ultimate fly reel for me would be the Nautilus CCFx2 with a 1 to 2 turn drag setting. Apart from its horrible drag setting (just my personal opinion) the reel is perfect.
  10. I think that the new version is better in every other aspect than the drag adjustment. It's just too long on the new one. But like I said I use the old one a lot too. With it's new drag hub and some custom mods (bigger handle and bigger drag knob) made by a friend of mine it's a stable reel in my arsenal.
  11. I'm not sure about the bearing as I just tossed it to the bin after I got it back from Nautilus. The second time I didn't get it back. I'm pretty sure you can get replacements for them if they happen to fail.
  12. They got cosmetic, ergonomic and technical differences. I got the CCF12 and the CCF X2 8/10. The original CCF drag system was a bit brittle if you can say so about a drag. There were pretty big differences between individual reels when it comes to drag power etc and it failed me two times. Bearing failure both times. After that they made a updated version of the whole hub and it has been perfect. Lacks a bit of power as it "only" goes up to 10lb or so, but the drag is butter smooth and I just love that reel. The CCF X2 is a better version of that reel in every other way apart from the drag adjustment. For some reason they wanted to go up to about 7 turns of drag adjustment instead of 3 or 4(can't remember exactly) on the old one that is plenty enough even for "finesse" adjusting. The newer reel packs a big punch when it comes to drag and goes up to about 15-16lb at the max. That drag is smooth too. Smooth like butter. The problem with this reels max drag is that the drag strength jumps from 7-9lb to 15-16lb with in the last 3/4 turn and with so many turns it's hard to keep up with the level you are at. Even with their flaws those reels are still my favorite reels. I love the silky smooth, cork like drag feel they have, they are very smooth to reel in, they got very good dimensions and size to weight ratios and their ergonomics are fantastic for me. I just wish that the next model will be one that has changed some of the features that really annoy me. Before that I just have to live with them.
  13. Good review. I had a chance to fish a Seigler for a few days and agree with many points you put out there. That lever is a fun addition to a reel, but when you take in consideration the added bulk and weight that system brings with it it's not really worth it. Especially when you can go the Danielsson way and give the user the chance to set the minimum drag by taking the drag knob out, setting the minimum from the screw underneath and putting the drag knob back in place. It's not like you need to change your min. drag setting during the day out fishing. The drag on those reels was very impressive. Like very good.
  14. Those new Abel's look really good on paper. Except for the price of course... Would love to hear some feedback on it as there's not much to go around right now regarding those reels.
  15. With the factory settings the Dani will have about 8-9lb of drag which is plenty for any striper, bluefish or albie I have ever seen. Adding an extra Belleville spring will give you loads more if need be.