jabster

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About jabster

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  1. We had the tip broke on one of our 10wt EPR's when a albie charged the boat and my friend lifted the rod trying to keep up... The loose line wrapped around the tip and when the fish dove under the boat it was the end of that tip section . Can't really blame the rod though:). I agree that they are very similar to the newer versions of the Gloomis CC Glx rods. They do need to be overlined though which I normally rarely do. At least the 9 and 10wts are way too stiff for their standard line weight.
  2. Your average 10wt is definitely not the right tool to fish for any tunoid that has an average weight over 25 or even 20lb. I agree with that. Can absolutely be done but not really the right tool for the job especially in deeper water and if you have a chance to hook up multiple times during a day. On the other hand I personally want to use the butt section only of the rod to fight a fish. Especially a deep sounding fish like a tuna. That's why I personally prefer a rod taper that uniformly bends right in to the cork and not a rod that has a super stiff lower 1/3 . Glass butt sections would be optimal, but for casting purposes i need a carbon rod as i can't the length and accuracy to my cast that SMS gets with a glass rod. Fortunately I have a few carbon rods with just about the right taper to make lifting even a 100lb tuna doable.
  3. In my opinion BFT are the pinnacle of SW fly fishing. They are extremely challenging and completely addicting. Even a bit more so than other tunoids which I also love dearly. 12 to 14wt rods. Contrary to general belief there are 12wt's out there with a taper on them that can withstand a tuna. Stay clear of the ones that have a super stiff butt section and preferably try to get a rod that bends as uniformly as possible under pressure. 13 and 14 wt's are in general safer when it comes to the fighting part but the same applies to them also regarding the taper. I personally opt to go with a 12wt 80% of the time as you really need to be able to cast far and accurately. Intermediate is the best all rounder when it comes to lines but I never leave the dock without a floater or sinker. There are much more options out there for 12 or 13wt rods than 14 or bigger ones. As said before most of the time you need to cast far and accurately. Sometimes you get lucky and all you need is a short cast... The stronger the core the better. You can usually get away with a 40-50lb core though. Breakages usually happen on the leader, hook or the tip of the fly line. 65lb gsp backing is my choice. As much as you can get on your reel. 40 to 80lb leader is the norm. Small surf candies on live bait hooks and smaller(up to 6" inch) deceivers on owner Aki's or something similar are the flies that usually get it done. A few gummy minnows and surface flies are handy to have too. Then just work hard and get used to being disappointed a lot. If you can't handle failures ( happens to everyone in that sport. Newbie or pro) than chasing tuna is probably not the right sport for you:)
  4. 60-80lb is usually the sweet spot. Go thicker if you can and go lighter if you need to. Keep it simple. 6-7feet is my normal length. Going longer might help if the fish are on super small bait and picky. Going shorter helps if you are lucky enough to find fish that eats biiig flies
  5. Been using the 8' #10 weight Quickshot for a few years now. It's a good specialty rod for me. I only use it with sinking lines and on super rare occasions with other short head lines. Good rod that just needs to be "overlined" for it to be comfy to use. 400-450grains is a good line "window" for it.
  6. Let us know if you find any 10-12wt glass blanks that are cheap. I've been meaning to pull the trigger on the Epic blanks as they are top of the line when it comes to glass but with the limited use I have for them I've not yet done that.
  7. I like the XP. Great line for quick shots with smaller flies and a good allround big fly line. Like the core and running line a lot more on it than on the OBS. Not good in super cold conditions though. Taper is a bit more refined then on the OBS. Underlining is usually a good idea on lines like these.
  8. Excellent. Sure will miss you guys and the fishery down there.
  9. Ohh, you jumped on the mirrorless train! Yep, 7-12 frames a second is just right in my opinion for action shots. Those new mirrorless cameras have a lot going for them, but I'm not quite sold on them for certain stuff. Does the Nikon version work with the same lenses that you had for your d750?
  10. Thank you very much! I still think that sensei @bhorsley is a step ahead. He is my fishing idol. I've taken on many of he's ideas in fishing and in fishing photography. Great source of inspiration in both departments.
  11. @sms uses hybrid rods that throw a 11-12wt lines if I remember correctly. He is very good at fighting fish and those rods are really made for lifting. There are some good alternatives to the 14 and 16wt rods that are the traditional weapon of choice for this stuff. You just have to be a bit picky on what to choose.
  12. Flies like that work well enough. We use 12 and 13wt's for the most part. It's all about the taper of the rod. Some 12wt's suck at lifting these fish and some are good or good enough. You need a rod that has a progressive bend and a soft enough butt section so it's easier on your hands.
  13. France is a hot spot for tuna. The eastern Atlantic tuna stocks are something like 10 times bigger now a days compared to the western stock. France in particular has been on the forefront of strict regulations and allowing the fish to make a comeback.
  14. European Anchovies. Unfortunately the small ones which makes them very hard to feed. Getting the fly in the zone is a must and stripping it very slowly is the ticket.
  15. Glad you like it. I work at a windshield factory. No kids, live a simple life and save all my money for fishing.