BST Users
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Scold

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  1. Thanks man. Everything on that serape rod was done with madeira 40wt polyneon except the first overwrap and the trims of white and black (Gudebrod NCP white and Voodoo black coal respectively). The underwrap and the serape blanket fade got color preserver. The first overwrap did not get color preserver and I used a gudebrod ncp thread that is kind of a mauve purple maroon'ish color. Then the 2nd overwrap went on which did get CP. My order of operations on this rod (and most of my builds): buttwrap and underwraps, apply color preserver, one coat of finish and let cure, then first overwraps, one coat of finish and let cure, then 2nd overwraps with color preserver, 2-3 coats of finish over that and then we're done. I never use CP on my first overwraps as it prevents the finish from filling in that air channel that is created near the guide foot.
  2. That one is done with one inlay thread for the first 3 parts of the fade and then I switch spools. Lets take the green fade for example. Starting at the dark green end, I did 10 wraps of dark green thread, and then a single inlay of the medium green (with a long, cut piece of thread off of the spool). 8 wraps of dark green, 2 wraps of medium green (from the long tag end left from first inlay), 5 wraps dark green, 3 of medium green, 3 wraps of dark green and then i switch to the medium green spool while leaving a long tag end of the dark green, then I do 5 wraps of medium green, 2 of dark green from that tag end, 8 of medium green, 1 of dark green, 10 of medium green and then the pattern just starts again with the next color in the fade. Below is the particular pattern I used written out. It goes up and down when you read it (10 --> 1 --> 8 --> 2 --> 5 --> 3 etc) Dark Green: 10, 8, 5, 3, 2, 1 Med Green: 1, 2, 3 5, 8, 10
  3. Thanks for the kind words man. Every fade I posted above is just going from one color to another. I have done fades where I’m wrapping more than one color at a time (a faded tiger where the blue changed from a lighter shade on one end to a darker on the other) but that’s not what you see in my original post. If you can do one color to another, you can do anything you see above.
  4. Thanks guys? no one else does fades? Post em up if you do.
  5. We have a crosswrap thread and a grip thread. How about some fades? Yes it’s the left coastie in me that makes me innately like fade wraps
  6. Without any sense of hyperbole, the only time I will ever recommend to a customer that rebuilding the rod is the right choice is if it carries some sentimental value. There is nothing magical about an old rod where the action is not similar to something that is currently available from the myriad of manufacturers that are out there nowadays.
  7. Oh, and don't be concerned about the strength of the connection with just one screw. I only use one screw in each jaw 100% of the time because I switch back and forth from the normal configuration to the configuration I outlined above fairly often so I just use one screw. In 10+ years of using one screw I have never had an issue.
  8. Anyone having issues putting larger diameter butts into their renzetti chuck, just remove the jaws and move them outwards and bolt them back in place with one screw in the lower hole of the jaw but screwing into the upper hole on the headstock.
  9. Thanks man! Much appreciated
  10. Every rod I build gets a label with the details of the build. I use as their decals are far and away the best I have used. The edges disappear and you can’t tell it’s a decal
  11. Thanks a ton man. It’s very much appreciated.
  12. Thanks man! A mix of 40wt and A. The first overwrap is A 99% of the time and the 2nd overwrap is Madeira 40wt. My clients have never had an issue in regards to wrap strength on YFT over 300lbs and BFT around 1k lbs. I always say on a scrap piece of blank, put an underwrap on, put finish on, wrap a guide on with size A, put finish on, 40wt 2nd overwrap, 2-3 coats of finish and once it cures, try to rip the guide off of the rod. It’s not happening.
  13. Thanks man. The only exception to my anti-grinding stance is on some brands of roller guides. Sometimes they have like a 1mm lip on the front edge and those I’ll grind because there really isn’t much of an option. Outside of that, nothing gets ground.
  14. Zero guide feet were harmed in the production of these rods. Grinding is a complete waste of time.