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About Killiefish

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  • What I do for a living:
    Fish Biologist

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  1. Real men weave their own stripping baskets out of available plastic garbage materials, on site.
  2. Looks like a great mod. They should probably adopt your idea.
  3. Thanks for the explanation. I get it. The fingers in the HMH work as well as the thin needles on the Flexi as far as your experience goes... In the Flexi-Stripper video I see that he struggles a bit to move his line hand tclose enough to his body so that the line goes through the needles on the stripper. It seems his second strip doesn't catch in the needles. With your modification, adding the base of the Flexi inside the HMH, you will be laying the loose coils into the HMH and hoping the needles catch the line. Probably will work best for short stripping motions. His use of a long stripping motion is better supported by the intact Flexi-Stripper. My take on this is that it depends on the kind of fish targeted and the length of stripping motion.
  4. Wow!!! This is an old thread. 11 years past, MaxG was still with us (RIP, kind of miss the old codger). Check out the Cam sigler big game flies. As Max pointed out, these have been standard for a long time when big game fish are sought. I see no reason not to tie big streamers that way, except for flatwings maybe. Obviously clousers are out and smaller baitfish flies don't make much sense. I think big eelies would work perfectly tied as tubes.
  5. Go to Herb's second link above. To me this looks like the weakest aspect of the basket. The shooters look like they will become detached and fall out of the basket quite easily. Agree that a full mesh basket would perhaps be more comfortable than a hard shell basket but it has to hold up over time. Structurally I see some problems already.
  6. I followed the link but could not see a photo there of the "shooters" which are supposed to go inside.
  7. Offer retracted. You didn't specify the amount up front for individual plugs or else you edited them out.
  8. Can you tell me what you want for the last two (RM, and XRap jointed) shipped to West Coast (Oregon)? If it's $10 or so, I'll take both.
  9. Second the Allen Alpha 3 (in the 7-9wt size, size 3). Have two of them with one extra spool. So far they have been very smooth and easy to maintain. The Redington Behemoth would be my second choice if limited to $200 for one reel and extra spool, although if I were going that way I'd simply buy two and store one of the frames for later when the first cracks or craps out (the Behemoth reels are cast aluminum, and are not anodized). For the same amount of money (~$200) you could also buy 2 used Scientific Anglers System 2 reels, plus spools. I'd look for the older ones, made in England. In the longer term, I'd bet these would outlast just about anything else out there for a similarly low cost outlay. They are heavy though. Need somewhat regular maintenance but they are solid. Note that I'm keeping my recommendations to the cheapest stuff out there that would meet the O.P.'s needs. I'd avoid the Lamson Liquids mainly because of the inability to change spools when wet or dunked as well as the cast construction and non-anodized coating. The cheapest Lamson I'd consider for salt would be the Guru and that reel is over $200 new - it still has the issue of water getting into the "sealed" drag, but the reel itself is anodized.
  10. Have the 10' Med Heavy (1-4 oz) and the 11' Med (3/4 to 3 oz). Didn't really believe that the thin diameter tips on these rods could handle distance casting with 3 to 4 oz, but they can. Inspect the tips carefully for imperfections though. I suspect the few bad reviews (if you look at the usual sites) were imperfections or careless user behavior. Have to say that I prefer the 11' to the 10' by a slight margin. I have no qualms throwing 4 oz on it as well but it's better with 3 oz. For surf perch fishing with light braid, these are pretty dialed. As far as fish fighting ability, I can't really say. I'm not sure they were designed for striper fishing, but I'd go with the 10' (1-4) not the 11' or 12' rod. Very light weights on these rods (both around 10 -11 oz).
  11. The general information on that rod (an 8/9 in reality) suggests 525g is a bit on the light side. 550-570g for skagit is about right on the money. But you should try the 525g line you have as well as that's pretty close. Of course if you are casting overhead (not a water borne anchor cast) 570g would be too heavy by around 20% to 25% (or perhaps more). Your use is salmon so you would want to line the rod based on its spey rating. Mike's suggestion for the 15' rod is assuming you are going to use that rod for two hand overhead casting. Which means that a skagit line rating for that rod is probably over 600g. My guess is that 15' 10w rod could cast 750g to 800g, if used skagit style.
  12. In Esa's post, he says "...and now I have proof myself being wrong when selecting too stiff tip action TH rods" I believe there should be a comma between stiff and tip. I take Esa's post to mean that the rod being cast in the photos is a more full flexing (slower) rod - but that is still very powerful. In the right hands, this rod he is saying (or I think he is saying) has the potential to outcast a similarly long but stiffer (in the butt, Bob), more tip action (faster) rod. To get the most out of such a rod, the caster uses a full sweep and more underhand. Not a simple 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock cast because that's not going to develop as much line speed with a slower more progressive rod (not exactly a noodle either from the looks of it). Not sure progressive is the word I want to use, but I mean that the curve in the rod as a whole is gradual (bends into the lower third). In the photos I see the rod bent lower than it would bend if it were stiff butt, and flexible tip. But there's no real "proof" of this concept shown in the photos because it's only one rod, one caster, one cast. Of course I am interpreting his words for him....probably not a good idea. Esa?
  13. You mean use the scientific method?? How revolutionary (pun intended).
  14. Sad day indeed. Condolences to his friends and family. He was one tough hombre.
  15. Thanks for the observations, SMS. When I try to pull on it, it it doesn't stretch at all, and doesn't break. I'm pulling with a good amount of force. Could be I got a good (non defective) line or else the core of the line does deteriorate with use...or maybe (k)not. I'm going to assume it has 20lb core strength to start. The line is incredibly difficult to cut. Am thinking that when it is cut some integrity is lost (RedGreen cut all of his lines). if I cut the line I am going to burn the end of the kevlar with a lighter and coat the ends of any joints with pliobond. I can't really imagine that the kevlar would deteriorate (rot) without some moisture getting in there over time. I do have a few older clear Airflo lines with monocore and they are great lines, supple not stiff. I guess Airflo was experimenting a lot back when and got some things right and others wrong.