Killiefish

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About Killiefish

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  • What I do for a living:
    Fish Biologist

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  1. Consider this: If you are wealthy most of your money is invested but you don't need most of it to live. You can sell bits and bobs only when the market is high, or hold on, wait for the payout, maybe leave your entire stock portfolio to the spouse and grandkids. If you are a working person and have been investing money that you and your family may need to live on now or may need to use in the next 10 years, you are basically screwed. That's not a politician talking to you. No politician wants to admit to that level of inequality and relative pain that is baked into the current system. If they did, they'd have to do something about it.
  2. The actual economy is broader than, and also (at times) separate and distinct from, the stock market. Not that there is no link between the two. There is a link, particularly at the top end of the socio-economic spectrum. The majority of stocks are owned by the wealthy. Piddlers and pikers like most of us who think they can make small bets, time the market perfectly, make an overnight windfall on a meme stock etc...typically get burned. Not all, but most. Further evidence that the two (market, economy) are not the same is that the market tends to go up when unemployment is high, and down when unemployment is low. That should tell you something... Once again, the market is not your particular friend. It doesn't care about you one iota, particularly if you are among those who actually have to work to make ends meet. The market is ambivalent to your suffering. Now, the political aspect of this is that, sure, one administration can make bad moves, but if looked at historically, both parties can f---k up and have. Here's the primary way that both parties have messed up: utter lack of government control over monopolistic and price control practices by U.S. corporations. You will see later on that a post-mortem of the coming recession will show that a large factor in current high prices was, in fact, blatant profiteering by companies that have no incentive to lower the cost of their products to help the average family get by. NO, instead, (there is one big similarity) like the stock market, they don't care about you. They care about making money now to placate their biggest stockholders, board of directors, and insiders.
  3. These people = both political parties. There's not that much difference in how the stock market performs under Repubs vs. Dems. Neither party has much if any real time control over corporations, or over Wall Street. There have been several recent articles and analyses that show that the best (albeit probably not statistically) stock market performance occurs when there is mixed control of government. There's a slight increase in market performance with a Democrat in the White House and a Republican controlled Congress, versus the opposite pattern. That analysis which goes back 90 years or so can be found on just about all financial websites. The reality is also that economic downturns have a lag time between when the bad decisions are made, and the real time shite hits the fan. I come back to my basic statement that (unfortunately) "these people" = both political parties. Not that big a difference, if any, to be found in the numbers. This thread is about the stock market and whether we are feeling good about it. I don't feel good about it or bad about it, but I certainly don't blame one or the other political party for the full series of events and perturbations that actually do influence markets.
  4. Timing re-entry into the market is very tricky. Best idea was to continue DCA'ing all along. Or, if one has built cash, or stopped DCA'ing out of fear, it could work to your advantage to select a target value at which point you would once again start dollar cost averaging, and stick to the plan. For me the target value for re-entry is somewhere between 3400 and 2800 S&P, but I am re-thinking that, based on my sense that people are still buying the dip and we are getting very close to that first level. When investors stop buying the dips, and then things tank another 10-15%, IMO is when you want to start putting some cash to work again, that is, if you stopped DCA'ing which you should not have if you had a good plan to begin with. In other words there's a chance that the time to start DCA'ing is already here...or (again) was there all along. I also don't think current market woes are due to any particular political party. The market has been overvalued for quite some time. It was becoming overvalued prior to this admin. In fact, it became fairly valued (based on historic PE ratios) only once Covid started and the uptrend since then was clearly unsustainable. The rebound after March 2020 was due to correct eventually anyway, regardiess of political party. Any suggestion that this is politically based needs to be supported with some facts. The facts aren't really there.
  5. The people who can benefit the most right now are first time, novice investors. Start young, automate purchases into an S&P 500 or total stock market index fund with extremely low fees. Do this in a taxable account, outside any 401K or company sponsored retirement fund which you should also add to yearly (i.e., as much as you can). Ideally fund a traditional IRA (and a Roth IRA) to the max each year if possible - again starting now, and while you are young. Don't stop dollar cost averaging into the market until you are ready to retire. Don't buy individual stocks unless you have a solid sense of the underlying business and preferably if it pays dividends. The rest of us who are older are playing with fire if we have not been doing the above all along, or else have tons of cash sitting on the sidelines, waiting to re-invest after everyone else gives up. The point of capitulation in this market is probably a year or so away after the S&P drops another 15-20 percent. S&P 2800 is possible in the next 1-2 years, I think. New investors who are young will buy right through the mess and likely do just fine.
  6. Yo probably want a line with a braided core, right? Cold-water but in ~6 or 7wt?
  7. Very few people get to live out their dreams and at the same time help the planet. Hats off to Yvon.
  8. Any particular reel brand or model(s) you are most interested in?
  9. Your best bet I think in getting rid of that Mach V reel is to find someone who uses them as spey reels and needs a spare. There are far better reels now in that size range for saltwater, including some that cost half as much as your estimate of $275. The reason is that these reels use the one-way bearing, and are not sealed or even semi-sealed design. Alternatively hold onto it for when you purchase a spey or switch rod.
  10. Wiz - the kind of rod I'd use for this (dual purpose salt, fresh) would be something like the TFO Pandion 8wt. It's slightly shorter than the Deer Creek 8/9 (13'3" vs. 13'6") but can still do both things reasonably well. In reality there is no such thing as a rod designed to do both spey and overhead. All rods are compromises one way or another. The Pandion is a compromised rod that can sort of handle both applications. YMMV.
  11. Photo of LRS handle arrangement. Two versions - older one had cork rear grip. These are all two piece rods (plus grip = 3 piece). There's even a 10ft 10wt model -- I suspect it would be too heavy to use single handed for an entire session...
  12. For the OP: There is one series of rod I know of that is currently available in 10ft length (8, 9, 10wt). It's the Douglas LRS two piece rod. Not expensive. These come with a detachable rear grip, so can be used single hand (without the added grip) or two hand (with it). Not the most sophisticated blank technology or materials used in this rod. I'd say it's a medium action rod. If you are mostly casting larger patterns and using the extra length of the rod more for mending than for absolute distance this rod series is worth a look. The added rear grip is not as long as some two hand rod grips, however. OTOH if the Salmo Sax rod is really built on a TFO Deer Creek blank (which I kind of doubt) there is no way any single hand blank will compare with it. Suggest you look into that option first. I have the Deer Creek 7/8 spey rod (original 13ft 4 piece) and it's a supremely good two hand casting distance machine in the right conditions (not out front in heavy surf or wind). The blank is unusually strong and the tip recovery is perfect.
  13. The outfit you picked (used) is a better one than the Redington Coldwater 9wt package. Especially because of the reel and the line that are included. Don't over-tighten the drag on that reel though. Use a moderate drag setting appropriate to whatever tippet (leader material) you are using. The reason I say this is that the Redington Grande reel has a ridiculous amt. of drag pressure at the top end, and can lock up on you when fighting a fish... Is the LRS rod the 2 piece or the 4 piece? The 2 piece rod came with a separate rear handle attachment. I have an extra one if your 2 piece rod doesn't have it. Can send to you for the price of postage.
  14. Your question isn't completely clear to me...But in general I find that a reel marked, say 5-7wt will be a match for (did someone say duh?) a 5wt through 7wt rod -- assuming of course that that rod is a single hand rod, i.e. intended for single hand casting with normal (not spey) fly lines. As it seems that your reel above is marked 8-11wt and your rod is marked as an 8wt single hand rod, it is on the larger size of the spectrum. By the look of it, it is at least a size 5. I know that rod (Ross 8wt RX) and it is not a particularly heavy single hand rod. Supposed to have been their top tier rod, so lighter than some of their other offerings. I'd think even a size 3 reel (~6-8wt) would be a better match for it. If all your other rods are less than 8wt, which it seems that they are, that reel is certainly too large for them. A size 3.5 reel (9-10) would be the largest I'd go with the Ross 8wt and that would be only if I was intending to use it on other rods > 8wt as well... Most likely that reel size (and weight) would be best suited for a 10+wt single hand rod, unless the rod is two hand (spey) rod, in which case it is suitable for roughly 7/8wt spey or 8/9wt spey or a two hand overhead surf rod. Size 2 reel is what I would use for your 4wt and 5wt. Size 3 for the 6wt (coming) and 8wt. If you were not going to add a 6wt I would say get a size 3.5 reel for the Ross. Take that Mach V and hold onto it for if you get a switch rod or spey rod, or a two hand overhead beach rod. It's simply too large for your current arsenal, IMO.
  15. Only way to get a better deal than that outfit would be to buy a used rod, reel and line from someone who has already dialed it in (matched the line to the rod, and also chosen correct size of reel). Normally I would avoid a pre-packaged outfit, but that one looks fairly well made for the price...and is going to be balanced (b/c the factory designed it so). Beyond that, I second (third) what's been said above....If you get lessons and practice hard, you will be able to make almost any rod, reel, line combo work for you well enough to get a cast out there to a fishable distance. The key is to not groove the wrong behaviors from the get go. The 9wt is an o.k. rod weight to learn on for general salt use. The rod in question is probably a bit heavier in hand than will suit you in the longer term if you get really into the sport. That would be my only concern. But you're not out a ton of cash to start out with that outfit.