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Killiefish

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    Fish Biologist

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  1. Yes the Rage 450g head is 29ft. around 5-7 ft longer than most Skagits which are usually 22-23ft. Mike, I don't think 700g overhead would be a problem for your rod or one of the stiffer carp rod conversions. It's that the O.P. is using a different rod that IMO probably can't handle that much. His rod maxes out at around 510g to 540g used overhead. I know because I have the earlier version of it. Just trying to recommend a match. Not commenting on whether 450g + 90g tip is enough for out front, etc... Good to see you are still posting and feisty, tho.
  2. What's a "regular" polyleader? There are many lengths and weights/sink rates of polyleaders but most weigh less than 80-95g. I suppose with a heavy sinking polyleader and a heavily weighted and bulky fly maybe a 570 to 600g skagit head could be more balanced and might turn over more slowly and not dump as much. In general use, polyleaders are too light to use with heavy skagit heads.
  3. Probably going to need to put (at least) 120 to 140g tips on those two Skagits for overhead casting. So that's ~690g and 740g when full aerialized. If no tip is added both of these will dump really early. That rod of Mike's will get a real workout. I think the main use for these would be hucking seriously large flies. In contrast, the Rage 450g can be used with a light polyleader (40-90g) or a long mono leader. 490g to 540g when airborne. Big difference. Make sure not to add too much grains when picking a tip. This isn't a skagit head. Somewhere between scandi and skagit. YMMV.
  4. No I am not. Would need shipped. I'll PM my location if you would consider sending (USPS is perfectly fine).
  5. You are going to have to experiment with tips, leader, tippet. What I do with my mostly Airflo heads and Mow/iMows may be different than what you need to do with that Rio head and specific tip (I don't have either one, so can not say for sure). Generally speaking what I'd do for matching experiment(s) is start lighter, then go progressively heavier. Or start shorter, and then go progressively longer. Also it will vary depending on how big and heavy your fly is. Short length (maybe 3-4ft) of 20lb if you are just adding leader to a weighted (sinking) tip as a starting point for larger heavier flies. With lighter flies, can go longer with your leader (suggest trying a scandi or Rage not a Skagit head as you will get better distance). Try that first then go longer or get more complicated with your leader. You may want to check the diameter of the reversed end of that Skagit. Match diameters to prevent hinging of the loop to loop connection of (reversed) head to tip and then of tip loop to leader butt. Obviously if blues are part of the program, you should consider wire tippet. Airflo makes a Pike/Musky polyleader that has mono butt and wire tip. They are spendy though so you can make your own. Nobody can give you precisely what solution will work for you. It's a learning process. Good Luck!
  6. I know you want to sell as a lot, but I'd be interested in the booties if you decide to split.
  7. Thats' good, maybe try it reversed before you buy lots of other lines. The dumping you are experiencing could be because the tip is too light. Skagit heads typically need tips that weigh at least 18-20% of the head weight. So IMO your rod needs an apprx 33-35ft head, preferably weight forward, with a longer rear taper. A Skagit line's head is unfortunately exactly the opposite (fat back portion, and lighter front portion), which is why I recommended you try it reversed. You want a weight forward line, ideally. Today there are few lines that are weight forward and over 500g, and those that are out there are typically discontinued (old version Airflo Beach line, Rio OB 12-13wt) or expensive (Rio GT, Airflo GT or similar). Can have a hard time finding the exact right line. Beulah's 550g Serum is/was close...but there's a cheap option: The cheapest line I can find that almost meets the criteria is the following "14 weight" (I contacted them and found that the 12wt version too light). The line is floating and also they told me it is tropic composition - so tougher coating, maybe a bit stiffer than a cold saltwater line. On the other hand, many lines made overseas are soft and don't wear well over time. Can't beat the price, and if it is too heavy, it can be trimmed a bit from the rear of the head and converted to a separate head to match your running line. Might need a stretch each time out...and may still need to use a light tip or short stiff leader butt. Big Auction site - item 156014174285, seller not related to me in any way.
  8. You are going to have to reverse that 600g skagit or if you do use it in normal orientation put a much heavier tip on it, or it will dump like Trump (yuuuuge!)
  9. Two fly fishermen and one connecting with the fish, the other not. This can be due to luck but can also be related to differing skill-sets and level of experience/knowledge. My guess is that that fly selection and depth is only part of it.
  10. No problem. I sympathize with those trying to match lines to short, powerful TH rods. They can be somewhat fussy re: line match. I know mine are. My only other suggestion is to spend $30 and get an electronic scale that has settings in grains, grams, oz. Once you do find a line that works for you, measure the head length, note the taper design and weight distribution (i.e. weight forward?, triangle taper? skagit? scandi/scandoid?, etc), and weigh the head portion. Keep coiled lines in plastic bags with the data on a slip of paper and note what rod they go on - assuming you have more than one rod.
  11. A Nautilus FWx 7/8 is lighter than most 4-5wt reels. Hard to find now as they are discontinued. Another reel I really like is the Lamson Litespeed Micra series. I think a size 3 micra (7-8 size) fits the bill. At current pricing, the Danielsson reels are also really hard to beat tho. Both of the other reels I mention are a bit more $. The other reel that may be worth looking for is an older Ross Rhythm (or Ross Airius) in size 3. Of the two, the Rhythm is more durable and reliable. The Airius has a drag system that can be fussy but is saltwater safe. I picked up an Airius used for around $115.00. The drag is some kind of self lubricating synthetic material, and doesn't need much service -- in fact adding reel lube or grease is not recommended. These are the only other lightweight reels I know of that are larger capacity (with braid), low maintenance, saltwater safe and relatively inexpensive. The arbor on the Ross is a bit wider than the other two reels, and can handle thicker floating lines and heads a bit better.
  12. Ditto. 40# Sufix Performance braid (original) after it softens up a bit is maybe my favorite braid to use as backing. I had a bunch of it on surf spin reels, and when I replace the line on them I trim the front 20-30 yards, then load it onto my fly reel spools. Doesn't cut into itself like some other 30-40lb braids and the test strength is still well over 30lb.
  13. I would also try using that 475g Rio Skagit Max Power head reversed. The reversed head will be a blunt, heavily weight-forward head. However the head is so short that i would definitely use at least a short cheater or longer polyleader on the front. Then transition to a relatively stiff leader material (maybe 3 ft of 30lb, and another 3-5 ft of ~20lb test). Note: a "cheater" is just a level length of line (can be from a looped section of recycled, used fly line). 475g plus a bit more weight -- maybe 5ft to 8ft cheater, weighing around 35-45g, cut and looped from an old 9wt floating line, would be in the sweet spot range for your rod, used overhead. If you haven't used or loaded that 600g skagit head yet, and the above works well, I'd maybe try take it (or send it) back to Tightlines for a refund or trade it in on a 450g Rage. I use 600g head plus 150g tips on a 9/10 wt spey rod - On that same rod, I use only ~465g to 530g overhead.
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