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About Killiefish

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  • What I do for a living:
    Fish Biologist

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  1. Possibly you could ask one or the other of the two guys he knows (the regular spot sand pounders) what his situation is. They might know what a) his level of mental function is, b) is he harmless, c) how to get through to him in a non-confrontational way. Could be autism, could be a brain injury or trauma, born under a bad sign, could be anything really. Ignoring him if he's got any repressed anger issues or is volatile or unstable is not a good idea, IMO. Expressing what you want him to do as if he has a child like mentality, also is a bad idea for the same reasons. Chances are by asking the other two guys you will learn more about him and how best to deal with him. Since you already know where they hang it should be rather easy, and I think is prudent.
  2. I looked at those rods and was about to go with a 7wt but the switch versions are two piece and I already have some older two piece, moderate action rods that cover my local water. For travel and for greater versatility I decided to go with a TFO TiCrx 9ft 7wt with the added two piece TFO extension butt (turns the rod into an 11'3" ~8/9 wt switch). That allows me to fish single or double hand, and the whole set up fits in overhead bin on the plane. The TiCrx 7wt is not as stiff as the same rod in 8wt and is, IMO, a great rod for large streamers. The older Scientific Anglers streamer express line in 250 grains is a decent match for the rod when used single handed. I use more grains for the two hand combo and use it both overhead and skagit style. The Douglas LRS would definitely appeal to me if I only needed a rod for local waters.
  3. Someone mentioned Sufix Performance braid (the original Sufix). I really like it in 65lb for reels in the 9-11 wt class. Soft, relatively easy on fingers, and doesn't dig all that much. Have to be careful with knots though when the braid is new, as it is coated and somewhat slippery. For smaller reels, I tend to use 20lb (white) dacron. I like white because if the backing does get rotten you can usually see some discoloration.
  4. Would you split? How much for just the flies?
  5. Redington Predator 9ft 5wt - (currently available on closeout) - has fighting butt TFO Jim Teeny 9ft 5wt - (discontinued) - has fighting butt. As mentioned a fighting butt can be added with a kit from, e.g., Mudhole. Generally salt 6wt rods have f.b.s and some of them are actually less powerful than the two fives mentioned, which are both 6+'s. The Teeny is likely a bit less powerful than the Predator.
  6. "One wood" sounds like it could be a Reggae I would enter this plug (sadly not mine - stole photo from another thread on SOL).
  7. Not sure what the guide layout is at the top of that rod, but that would probably help determine where to cut the tip. A 4" cut might not result in any improvement, but then again an 8" cut might compromise the feel/feedback. Try it with full rod length and that 11wt OBS, then if no bueno, consider cutting a bit at a time and retesting. Might need to replace or re-locate two of the guides if you cut 6" or more. BTW the way to do the cut is with a thin sharp edged triangllar file working very very slowly around the blank so as not to damage or split the fibers.
  8. You might try searching on the site that combines spey and pages and dot com. From what I remember reading there or somewhere like it, the Aetos spey rods are quite fast, i.e. mainly flexible in the tip and are not super powerful for their rating - in other words, slightly under-powered to true rated. Not the best for distance with heavier lines. Folks tend to use the lower end of their line weight/range estimates for spey/scandi with these rods. You might start with an Outbound Regular (not short) 11wt IMO. That's a 465g head but the head is long enough, IMO, to use with a 14ft rod. If the rod tip is too flexible to unstick that head in surf (and if you only intend to use it that way) you could try shortening the rod by 4-6" and adding a new tip. The speys may be different but from all accounts the design is conservative vis a vis line ratings. My preference for overhead is a rod with a thicker and stiffer top third but YMMV.
  9. Personally wouldn't go lighter than 6wt. My preferred one is an Albright XXT (likes a 7wt line). If I had to use a 5wt it would be one of the older TFO models made from IM-6 graphite. The TFO Jim Teeny 5wt had a fighting butt. TFO TiCr 6wt had the option of a fighting butt but I believe this option was not available on the 5wt. Agree with Tin Boat - I can see the Echo Ion or Ion XL in 6wt being pretty useful in salt. The original Ion series was a very tough rod, and the updated versions (there were two versions of the Ion before the XL) of it are a bit lighter. Older Ions (not the XL) go for peanuts and seem to be nearly unbreakable. Guides on them are kind of cheap so need to wash in fresh H2O regularly.
  10. That post fro TGS is also, IMO, one of the most generous and informative posts I have ever seen on this FF forum. Which is why I remembered it. The other thing is that TGS is throwing massive flies (both bulky and heavy). He's not aiming for maximum distance and is fishing mostly at night. The recommendation he makes for using heavier heads is largely based on needing to bomb large flies out at reasonable distances without the ability to use an extended backcast. My recommendation to start with a 10wt Outbound (or Outbound Short) at ~425g is based on using relatively normal sized flies. I have a rod that is I think similar to that rod, but much less expensive. It can throw 550g+ but I prefer 400-450g on it when using normal sized flies, with the ability to implement a fully extended backcast, so you don't have to shoot as much of the running line.
  11. I think the problem is that we tend to groove the same mistakes into our casting over time. Slight problems with timing, tracking, acceleration, hand and arm position creep back in unless we periodically re-evaluate, adjust and re-train. Videos can be helpful but an understanding of one's baseline tendencies and typical flaws is essential. Those keep creeping back.... That's what I learned from my instructor. He gave me a printed card with the basic message of what I need to keep working on; what issues I have that will probably keep messing with me.
  12. See TGS's post here (post #3):
  13. Starting point I'd think would be 400-450 grains overhead. Try that.
  14. Call T&T for recommended lines. Or: PM The Graveyard Shift here who owns and fishes that specific rod.