Killiefish

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About Killiefish

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    Fish Biologist

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  1. Trying one last time, then going to close this thread.
  2. Leaders - After a bunch of casting lessons that one leader you get with the kit will be shredded. You can purchase a half dozen saltwater (tapered) leaders, make your own tapered leaders, or use straight shots of 20lb mono to whatever tippet you prefer.
  3. Here's what that Airflo intermediate striper line looks like. Used to be able to get these direct from the U.K. for less. Now harder to find for under $70. Google machine search. Get the 8wt for your rod, assuming you are getting the 8wt.
  4. Sorry forgot it was a combo (For $187 or so that combo is a great deal). Keep the same backing but get a second intermediate line for that reel. The floating line it comes with could be o.k. especially as you are learning to cast. Could simply replace the floating line later. You could also get an extra spool there (@ Bean) for the reel (for around $40 with your discount), add backing and then spool your intermediate line on that. I'm afraid that you will find that the intermediate line will cost more than the extra spool. Search here: Airflo Cold Saltwater Intermediate. Normally around $70-80. But that line will last you 4-5 seasons. Backing is simply 20lb dacron - need around 150 yards.
  5. If you go with an intermediate line, make sure that it has a braided core not a mono core, as they will not coil and kink as much. If you are going to fish it in colder water only then look for a line that is meant for coldwater use. Airflo cold saltwater intermediate is a great line and very durable. For a floating line, go with a Scientific Anglers MPX. You will eventually want both a floater and an intermediate, maybe even a sinking shooting head (something that sinks faster than 3" per sec) to get deeper. Reels - I'd take a good look at the new Echo Bravo for small change. Get the smallest one (7/9) as these reels run larger. Let us know how it goes with that rod.
  6. That rod will be fine. These are built on lightweight moderately fast action rod blanks, made in China. I have the Streamlight Ultra 2 (newest version) 12'6" 7wt spey rod. Very light, nothing too fancy. The single hand Streamlight Ultra 2 rods are also decent. The main thing is that LL Bean no longer has a lifetime warranty on their gear. Too many people took advantage of it. Keep the receipt from Bean. If it breaks and they won't accept a return, then you are not out that much cash. When these are on 25% discount (sometimes there is an even better sale offer) they are an excellent deal. I got my spey rod for ~$125. It's definitely worth more than that. Make sure to get some lessons and line the rod properly with a decent weight forward line (don't scrimp on the line).
  7. Good decision to keep the foregrip, IMO, why mess with a classic?
  8. Like some above I have too many rods, including loaner rods (not listed), and TH rods. The ones that give me the most joy I found new old stock, discontinued, or used in fine condition (marked with a *) Some single hand rods that I will likely hang on to forever: Ross Essence FC 8'6" 3 wt Ross Essence FC 9' 4 wt Powell Tiboron 9' 5wt (original U.S. version*) Albright A5 (5 piece) 9' travel rods (5wt*, 6wt*) Albright XXT 6wt, 10wt Temple Fork TiCr 7wt Temple Fork TiCrx 7wt (plus two hand conversion kit, making it an 11'3" 7/8wt) Temple Fork prototype "Tough Fly Rod" 8wt (2 piece, from Lefty's estate*) Powell Tiboron 8wt*, Tiboron II 8wt*, Tiboron XL 9wt Redington TSF 10wt* (bought used) 4 piece, IM-7 blank, modified removable fighting butt Redington CPS rods in 7-10wts (all 9' 4 pc, most new old stock, or used, 8wt used*) Ross Essence FC 12wt (x2; deeply discounted) Two hand (current rotation): Ross Reach 12'6" 6wt spey (discontinued at Sierra) Ross Reach 11' 9" 7wt switch (purchased as a demo with an extra tip) LL Bean Streamlight Ultra 2 12'6" 7wt (testing it seems more like a 7/8) Redington CPX 11' 3" 8wt switch rod Echo2 12'6" 9wt scandi rod (bought used*) Beulah 9/10 surf TFO 12x12 Surf Tamer
  9. Light does not mean strong, and old does not always mean heavy. There are some great older rods that are quite light, and also some newer rods that are heavy. Some new rods are light but overly prone to breakage. Some of my most used and treasured rods are older rods that I believe walked the line between lightness and strength. When I compare them to newer, supposedly "better" or latest technology rods, I find that the difference is often marginal and the increase in joy ephemeral. One can become very unhappy while chasing perfection.
  10. Gman - were are you seeing the Echo3 rods on sale? To the O.P.: don't forget to look at the Orvis Recon, and the TFO Axiom 2 rods. Someone else mentioned the Redington Predator series and I would check those out as well as the Coltons, Scotts and St. Croix.
  11. O.k. so wrong about the first guide being on the top section at least for the 10' rod show in photos. I wonder which rod I was looking at that had all guides on the top half - maybe it was the 9' one.
  12. I only have one rod with a fore grip - the Redington CPS 12w. It's such a lightweight tool for a 12w that I think the fore grip is not really appropriate for it. But the added cork adds so little extra weight that I don't find it to be a problem. I just don't use it. The funny thing to me is that I am nearly convinced that the 12w CPS is simply the 10wt CPS with a fore grip added. They take the same lines as far as I can tell with both the 10w and 12w preferring an 11w tarpon line. I also have no fore grip on my other 12w rods (Ross FC 12s). If I had a bluewater rod with more guts (like a 13 - 14+ weight) I'd probably want to have a fore grip or an extended composite cork grip like in the Beulah heavyweights.
  13. Oly, I can't give you an exact measurement because the TFO BVK 8wt I had I sold. All the hype about that rod made me eventually buy one to test. Several things about the handle bothered me. One it was shorter (total length) than any other 8wt I have owned by at least a full inch. Two - it had a very small set of reel seat rings that were hard to tighten down sufficiently, and a tiny too short fighting butt that I felt was useless. Three, the overall weight savings (intentional I think) in the 8wt handle to make the rod seem lighter (in spec and in comparison with other rods in magazine tests) combined with the rod's taper being very strangely designed resulted in the rod being tip heavy. Finally I actually measured the rod and it was not a full 9' long, but almost a full inch shorter. I have rather large hands and the grip just felt too short and wrong. Hard to describe. Here is a photo of the 8wt BVK compared to the 9wt BVK. Even though the handle is longer in the 9wt, I would avoid the 9wt BVK as well - because the cork grip where my hand goes is the same as in the 8wt, too short for comfort by around 1 inch. Might be fine for someone with smaller hands though.
  14. Not feeble. That is super realistic!!
  15. I set myself a limit of 50 plugs. When I lose one, I can buy one. It seems to work. Except that the limit used to be 30 plugs a few years ago. My excuse was that I had mostly pencils, poppers and spooks and not enough swimmers. With fly fishing, if I am going to a new location and don't have what I need already I will go the local fly shop and buy a few of each pattern recommended by the owner for what is working best at the time. Usually I end up with a couple extra to use as tying patterns. I tell myself - no more bulk buying of materials. I buy only the materials I need to copy the few pattern(s) I know I actually will use. Try setting up a limit or at least a provisional limit. If you go over it, examine your excuses.