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About Killiefish

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    Fish Biologist

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  1. Is there a difference between the original stick shads and the newer ones that makes these collectible or is the action of the lure better?
  2. Can you do $125 shipped (PayPal or check)? I already have enough unknown/orphaned you don't need to include it. Is it possibly a 9wt floater? That at least I could cut and use for tips. If 10w or above I really don't need.
  3. Interested in this. What line is on it and what kind of backing?
  4. Aren't the heavy mow tips around T-14 or equivalent?? The light mows are T-8. Maybe you meant the light tip? I usually use light or medium mows but would pick up a couple heavy ones if I thought the 400 or 440g skagit would perform better with them on the 9/10 Beulah (older model).
  5. I like your approach. Building Franken-lines are also a poor man's solution, given the complex and confusing world of (Friggin' expensive) line choices. More and more people are learning to use short heads by doing exactly what you are doing - experimenting.
  6. No I think they are open again. Orders might take a while to ship. They only have 400g and 440g currently (i.e., in the Third Coast Skagits). Remember that when using them you need a tip. So for overhead the effective payload is heavier. A 400 grain int head with a 10' 100-140g tip casts well overhead with, e.g., a Beulah 8/9 (old model) or 9/10 surf rod. The 440g head can probably carry a medium Mow or 140-160g tip. That gets you into 580g to 600g payload range for overhead.
  7. Not sure what you are trying to do with your second question. It is possible to build franken-lines from sections of old lines, but why bother when you can get a ready made Skagit head for (~$20) and loop to loop it to the pre-looped Mow/iMow or Skagit tip of your choice. Mow and iMow tips are looped as are many other tips made for Skagit systems (Rio, Sci anglers, and esp. Airflo makes some great tips too). If the loops fail, can create a new one. But yes, you can make a floating tip from and old floating line, or an int. tip from an old int. line if you wanted to (experiment!). Can make tips out of older intact sections of line by matching diameters (for a floating line, you are most likely going to find that the best diameter match is starting from some portion of the belly-front or rear taper). Don't be afraid to source tips from different lines. To help avoid hinging and failure, IMO, you have to make sure that the stiffness and diameter, at least, if not density, of the two sections matches. It can be difficult to match them up without: a) weak spots or discontinuities, b) uneven or abrupt differences in sink rates, or c) ultimately failure of the line (either at or above/below the connections). Most likely you will be creating a loop to loop connection, and if so it can be helpful to include a plastic heat-shrink tube over the loop/loop, but eventually that can cause failure above or below the connection. But if it were me, I'd stick to: 500 grain skagit head (@23') and a 10' Mow/iMow or other pre-looped tip, (weighing in at ~100 to 120g). 600-620g and 33ft.
  8. Should be no problem. Scientific Anglers Third Coast (or newer version) Skagit head and medium Mow/iMow tips - loop to loop it. If you go with 10' tips that gets you to 33' total head + tip, and a 15ft tip would bring it up to 38fr. I personally like the intermediate Skagit heads as they are thinner and have less air resistance. An 8 ft rod should work quite well with a shorter head/tip. I'd actually even think a 28 ft head + tip combo would work even better with an 8' rod. Sierra had the Third Coast int and float skagits on sale awhile back, then they closed due to Covid, now back open.
  9. Yes they are Airflo lines, made to match the Echo Beach Rods (or single hand rods). The only issue is they only go up to 8wt @300-320g. Wish they made a full intermediate integrated line in 9-12 wt. I prefer Airflo lines to Rio when there is an option to buy either one for any specific purpose.
  10. My mistake; I was confused. I guess the Rio lines are fine for that. And the problem with the Wulff Ambush line is terrible mending ability so go for a line with a thicker running line. Side note: If one wants a 33 ft headed line that comes in integrated form, and can be used in fresh or salt (also has float, int, sink varieties) check out the Airflo Beach lines. Might be a bit more durable than the Rio lines. Similar taper design I think. Google Echo Boost Beach line. Not cheap, tho. The lines have a long front taper so no need for tips, just mono. These are two hand overhead lines that can also be used for single hand rods. Overlining isn't needed - suggest 230g to 250g for a 5wt single hand rod. [sorry for crappy formatting below; the data are on the Echo website]: Echo Beach Lines (Integrated, full line length is 110 ft in all cases, head length 33’-34’) Item Head wt - Lngth Front Belly Rear Running Line Beach Float WF6 250gr 33 14 16.5 2.0 77 Beach Float WF7 285gr 33 14 17.5 2.0 76 Beach Float WF8 320gr 33 14 17.5 2.0 76 Item Head wt - Lngth Front Belly Rear Running Line Beach int. WF5 190gr 33 13 16.5 2.0 77 Beach int. WF5 Clear 190gr 33 13 16.5 2.0 77 Beach int. WF6 230gr 33 14 17.5 2.0 76 Beach int. WF6 Clear 230gr 33 14 17.5 2.0 76 Beach int. WF7 265gr 33 15 17.5 2.0 76 Beach int. WF7 Clear 265gr 33 15 17.5 2.0 76 Beach int. WF8 300gr 33 15 17.5 2.0 76 Item Head wt - Lngth Front Belly Rear Running Line Beach sink6 WF6 220gr 33 14 16.5 2.0 77 Beach sink7 WF7 255gr 34 15 16.5 2.0 76 Beach sink7 WF8 290gr 34 15 16.5 2.0 76
  11. I found this online (Bottom is OPST Commando 150 gr + AIRFLO 10´ Salmon/Salt Polyleader, Sink 5, top is OPST Commando 450 gr + 10´ T14 ). It appears that the lighter OPST heads are more gradually front tapered for poly use, while the heavier ones are more bullet shaped and could be used with heavy (even level) sink tips. The 275g is probably somewhere in between. I get the idea of trying to cover both Skagit and Scandi, but my guess is you would be o.k. with the tips designed specifically for the Commando head at ~275g or 10' poly tips or else light Mow tips on the Wulff Ambush Short. Realize that the Wulff Ambush Short and the Commandos are super short heads, 15ft or so, and the Rio Single Hand Spey lines are long, 33 ft or so. I'd view the Single Hand Spey lines as more scandi lines. Line taper and head length choice depends on fly size and wind conditions, as well as what species you are targeting. Also if you don't need to mend the line but are just looking for easy distance, I'd look strongly at the Wulff Ambush Short - but it's running line is sorta thin. If mending is an issue (in surf I don't think you have much need) then a thicker running line and a longer head may be better. Not to say that the Rio Single Hand Spey lines are bad, and as Graeme indicates they are very nice, but I think they have more application in river settings.
  12. Also, you should try to get a diagram of the head shape/profile of any of the lines you mention. The reason is that for what you are wanting to do, the profile of the head makes all the difference, with the heads that are more weight forward being probably the easiest to use in the manner you are attempting. The Rage head, for ex, is intermediate between a skagit and scandi head. Scandi heads will cast farther if no or low wind. The extremely short, more weight forward head designs cast better when you add heavier (relative to polyleaders) tips.
  13. Complex question. Generally speaking, anything that says Skagit will require a heavier tip. Scandi lines use light tips. polyleaders or only mono leaders. Also, tip length and weight for a 5 or 6 weight single hand rod is going to be a light to medium tip. The "Light" Mow/iMow may work or else polyleaders up to around 100g, preferably 50-90g. I'd suggest you also go with an integrated line. I'd go with the Commando over the others but... there's another integrated, short head: Not sure about the durability of this line (esp. running line). The core strength of this line is 28lb. This line is new and I have not tried it but I would say the 250g (not 275g) would be the ticket for a 5/6 single had rod, used with tips up to around another 80g. The Airflo Saltwater/Steelhead polyleaders are ideal. Come in sink, fast sink, extra fast sink, clear intermediate, floating. 10' or 15' your choice. A full set of those is genuinely worth it. I'd maybe stick with the 10' ones, except I'd go for the 5' clear intermediate and add another 4' to 5' of 20 lb mono. Caveats: A 10' single hand rod with a normal butt handle design is harder to use for single hand spey or skagit IMO, then a 9' rod single hand rod overweighted by 3 line weights. Even better would be a 10.5ft rod with an extended butt. I'd rather two hand cast than single hand cast any 10'+ rod. YMMV. How fast action and powerful is your rod? Personally I prefer a mod fast rod with solid power in the butt to do single hand or Skagit work, and a faster action rod to use Scandi lines, for overhead, or for dual use Scandi/overhead. Again YMMV.
  14. I'm in Oregon, and shipping to E. Coast is getting more and more expensive. I'd can do it for $95 including PayPal fee and shipping. Rod has been thrown 2 times in freshwater only.
  15. Hmmm let's see, an $1100 rod or a sub $100 rod. I can't help you with the Burkie but I do have a CGR 7/8 I might sell ya. Where are you located?