surfrat59

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About surfrat59

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    1,000 Post Club!

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Surf and fly fishing
  • What I do for a living:
    Auto Tech

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Smithtown LI
  1. If they are truly type 3 anodized then they're bomb proof!
  2. I always tie direct but certainly could see the convenience of a clip after dark for ease of rerigging. I have gone to the spro micro swivels at the end of my leaders for the past 2 seasons. I tie 3pc tapered leaders specifically matched to each fly line, the swivel makes it simple to change cut back tippet without altering leader... might just be my imagination but I swear it has drastically reduced line twist also.No swivel when targeting albies, everything else yes and no negative issues I can see.
  3. Za the REC in the pictures came off spinning rods using braid, no...I have 10yr old fly rods I built with REC titanium snakes and tips that show absolutely no signs of wear. I don't care for single foot runners in either wire or ceramic for single hand rods, too easy to damage or pull a wire guide from the wrap, and the Fuji's for me too heavy, drastically change the feel of the blank, particularly in popular 8 thru 10wt applications. REC titanium snakes my personal choice, strippers the cheapest stainless frame Fuji with alconite inserts will outlive any rod blank made.
  4. Wish I could help but can't offer much written advice.Purpose of hauling is to load rod tip even further and increase line speed but it must be timed correctly so the extra pull comes just as rod tip stops. Too soon and the extra bend you put in the tip unloads before the stop, causing tailing loops on a backcast and slack line forward cast which leads to line piling up instead of turning over. Much has been written about proper hauling techniques but it's difficult to learn from print. Practice or some hands on critique from a good caster is the only way to master it. Proper haul is a must learn technique for a saltwater flyrodder, the ability to carry 40ft of line and a good size fly in the wind is sometimes very critical to a successful day on the water.
  5. Always a great day when all the effort is rewarded! Good for you...
  6. I don't baitfish anymore, that rig is long gone...believe I took 3-4 in from the tip because it was a little soft taped up and test cast. After that 8oz and a chunk were no problem, and still soft enough to toss clam bellies without tearing them off the hook.
  7. old honey Lami, 1364M
  8. There's the future of catch and release...velcro instead of hooks. That's actually quite innovative and very interesting. I might have to steal that idea! How does it cast...
  9. 30lb fireline on the VS250 and the old Z's...trying the new powerpro ssv2 in 20lb on the lighter stuff this season.
  10. No distance difference if it's spooled to the lip or 1/8in back. I put 250 or so yds on top of mono backing and never fill to the lip, don't want to deal with wind knots or retying in the dark. The extra 50yds is used to retie the tip section, uni to uni 8ft or so after each outing, keeps the spool full. Next season reverse the braid. Never had a striper or bluefish that ran more than 50 or so yds, so even 250yds is way more braid than needed.
  11. Yes, blue green and silver, the white drag knob and handle tell the vintage. Drilling em just helps to rinse sand out if the spool locks up...a quick dunk and start grinding.
  12. you meant 9-12 ft yes...classic workhorse to match it, no glass...lami 1321m
  13. Forgot I have a Cortland 444 QD quick descent 325gn full sink tip w/intermediate running line, any interest
  14. Solid timeless reels. No use for the lines, actually no use for the reel either...but I'd take the reel and spool, no lines, for $200 if your interested.