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About Swimbaiter

  • Rank
    Senior Member


  • About Me:
    Fishing for Bass,Pike,Walleye,Wiper. Out East: Blues,Jacks,AJs,Pompano,Snook,Drum,Tarpon.
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Hunting, Fishing, Archery/Bowhunting, Hiking/Camping, Knives/Cutlery.
  • What I do for a living:
    Project Manager
  1. That’s great news! You might want to also use the tape on the spool and use a moderate but progressively harder cast when you do that just to save yourself some headache if the spool over runs itself.
  2. Hmmm, where to start. I tend to avoid braids that are only 4 carrier like straight Power Pro because it can’t handle heavy use, especially around nasty structure and is prone to break unpredictably. I also prefer Daiwa J-8 braid, Suffix Performance braid because it uses 8 carriers and can handle considerably more than it’s published line rating.n On low pro reels for inshore fish I’ll frequently use 10-15# braid attached to fluorocarbon. Many of the braid brands are severely under rated and can handle in some cases as much as 2-3 times their rated load. Be very careful to check knots and line condition frequently while fishing especially after a sustained fight with a larger fish. I’ll frequently trim 2-3 feet off the end of my braid between days fishing to eliminate the line that takes the greatest wear and tear even if it seems to look fine. It’s hard to predict what can happen with the line you can’t see concealed by the exterior of the braid as well as loss of actual line diameter which translates to reduced strength in my opinion. On small round reels (like a 100-200 frame Daiwa TD Luna, or 2000-4000 frame ABU Garcia’s) used for the same purpose, I’ll stick with 30# braid for its versatility with large and small fish. I’ll also stick with rods having quality ceramic line guides instead of the more inexpensive metal guides because the braid wears through the guides due to sand and grit while ceramics tend to eliminate guide wear. Hope me this helps!
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  5. Is the reel used, recently purchased? Have you opened the reel to check the interior condition of the reel to insure it’s free of corrosion and not packed with excessive reel grease if so remove with a toothbrush and replace with Q-tip a good quality synthetic grease like Penn’s. Check all reel/spool bearings are functional and lubricated with a good quality lubricant and not dry or packed with heavy bearIng oil/grease (might want to soak your bearings in lighter fluid to remove old or dirty lubricant then put a drop of a good synthetic oil in each bearing, I prefer Penn’s), make sure all drag is zeroed, VBS brakes are all off but the desired number on, spool tension control is set to minimal (essentially the spool is centered with minimal side to side gap). If you’re not comfortable doing these things yourself, take the reel to someone you can trust to clean, lubricate and adjust the reel properly making sure to mention the short cast performance issues you’ve been experiencing. NOW spin your spool like your casting and check the run time of the reel, does it run quietly but fast for a reasonable time? Try taking it out now and practice casting it with your practice weights AND spool tape brake I recommended! Progressively increase your casting speed so that you’re not snap casting but gradually increasing the load on your rod until the moment you release the weight. If your still not satisfied please upload a video with your casting technique. Tell us about your rod, brand, model, line weight and lure weights. Please try to remember that under most surf fishing beach conditions it’s usually best to use a rod that’s at least 10’-11’ long and using a reel that’s a non level wind to get the best distance cast with your bait or lure. There are exceptions though. Sometimes small changes in a setup can net you significant improvements without having to use a dedicated surf rod outfit. Using a faster lubricant for instance, using mono or fluorocarbon line on a windy day instead of braid that tends to catch the wind. Using a saltwater rod instead of a freshwater rod can also help because saltwater rods tend to have more flex in the tip, while freshwater rods tend to have more flex in the belly of the rod resulting in saltwater rods that are typically stiffer feeling when casted than freshwater rods though many Swimbait rods tend to feel more like saltwater rods than freshwater. I hope some or all of this is helping you!
  6. Remember, the key is to work from your best controlled cast then add your additional distance and the tape. If you have reservations about fishing with the tape on then you might want to just practice with the tape on the spool. I’d also practice with the casting weight I typically use most frequently while fishing. I have a series of different weight casting tennis balls that I work with when I’m practicing. I use screw-eye type bolts that I add washers to for the weights I need. Works great and is easy to assemble. I drill two starter holes for the bolt to pass through in the tennis ball. I also use a small section of thin cord I tie to the bolt eye to prevent wear on my line. You may want to plan on using a good heavy duty 30# braid which should cut through the air and wind well to maximize your distance. Don’t forget to use a good 12-18” mono shock leader between your main line and leader of at least 30# mono, I usually use 60# mono just to eliminate the risk of abrasive damage from creating break offs which typically occur with lighter duty shock leaders. Yeah I know, the rule of thumb is 10# per ounce of casting weight but when using light main lines, you’ll be replacing shock and main leaders way more often than you want to. At least this way you’re cutting your losses by half not having to replace your shock leader when you replace your main leader if you use a 60# shock leader regardless of the weight (weights less than 4 oz.). Don’t be afraid to use a barrel swivel also between your main line and your shock leader which I swear by. Eliminates another unnecessary knot from the system you don’t have to deal with. Well I hope some of this has helped a bit. Ask questions for clarification if needed. Good luck!
  7. You can do an awful lot with a reel with the capabilities of the Daiwa Luna. I’ve got a 100 and a 300 and believe me, they are really well built, tough as nails reels. The only reel that you might enjoy more with the desire for a low pro style might be the ABU Garcia Revo Beast 40 HS (not the Revo Toro Beast). It’s good for 310yds/20#, 235yds/30# @ 7:1 gear ratio and $280 msrp
  8. I don’t see a problem with your setup. I use a similar setup in the gulf for the same and greater weights. Until you get your thumb better trained, your best recourse is to use a more progressive power cast, one that starts slow and builds until the release. Snap casts will virtually always create problems. Your better off setting your gear up for the longest controlled power cast. You can protect yourself from the birds nests by establishing your best cast and maybe adding another 20 yards or so of line and applying a strip of painters tape across your spool. The tape prevents the over run. As you increase your confidence change the position of the tape until you can remove it altogether. It’s very effective for developing better cast control without the worry of line replacement after a nasty birds nest. Above all though, practice and train that thumb to eliminate the need for the tape! The only other way to address this problem is to add magnets or mag strength if you already have magnetic cast control. If you don’t want to go that route then use heavier viscosity oil like 3in1 sewing machine oil, replacement of your rod with a longer rod, replacement of the current brakes with heavier weights (easy to do with some brands like Shimano, like the red for green brakes they sell), or lastly, go with a thicker line. All of these will ultimately reduce your distance (except for the rod and brake replacement) but will help maintain your cast control. Give these methods a try! One is bound to help you achieve your goals without the risk of reel over runs. Good luck!
  9. If you’re a novice non-level wind reel user then it will take some time and effort to be effective with it if it doesn’t have mag control. But there are after market improvements that can be made to add mag control either static or adjustable. I have 2 of those reels and they’re great reels!!! Not everyone feels as Jim does.
  10. Can you afford a Daiwa Luna 253 or 300? They have a small profile of a low pro but the strength of a round reel. It casts like a breeze!! Price is quite reasonable also.
  11. You may want to also consider a Abu Garcia Revo Toro Beast in the 60 size. It's an incredible reel in every respect! I've handled some we very big fish that the reel had no reason to handle well and it shocked the tar out of me with it's abilities! The drag rocks, 25# at the ready. It stopped a full size stingray and midsize Goliath Grouper. Couldn't believe it!! Casts really nice, not prone to over runs, really easy to set up for what suits you. Please give it a look see, you won't regret it.
  12. I’ve had several out of the box performance reels that really impressed me. Specifically: ABU Garcia Record 6600, Abu Garcia Revo Toro Beast 60 - HS, Diawa, ABU Garcia Morrum 3600 (old model), Daiwa Millionaire Black Sheep, Diawa RYOGA SHRAPNEL
  13. If you’re concerned about backlashes you can do this: make your best controlled cast effort with a weight tied to your line that is typical of what you’d normally like to cast and without an over run, put your rod down, walk it off and add another 20 yards or so. Carefully pull off that additional 20 yards from your reel. Now get some painter’s or masking tape and put several strips of it across your reels line on the spool. This will serve as a maximum line over run “wall” on your reel in case of a back lash without mucking up your line under it with the tapes adhesive which is why your not using black electricians tape. Tightly reel in your line. Now you can practice your casts carefully without fear while building your self confidence and extending your casts range using different weight casting plugs. Work on the technical aspects of the cast and how it feels when you’ve performed the cast properly. As you slowly get better and improve your range increase as will your confidence. Watch how closely you get to the tape “wall” we added and add line to it as you improve slowly. Take your time! There’s no hurry. A relaxed comfortable cast performed without worry under different conditions and circumstances will build your ability to cast stress free while having fun and catching fish!!! Hope this helps you!!!
  14. RemOil is a great synthetic low viscosity oil that I use in my reels bearings towards the end of the season when it starts to get cooler and your lubricant normally begins to thicken and hamper your casting distance. During the summer I like to use either a good 30w synthetic oil like you can get from Mobile 1 or Penn’s synthetic reel oil. They both are great because they thin with the heat just enough to give you the casting distances you need to get between the second and third bar without killing yourself to do it. I like Penn’s reel grease for the same reason.
  15. Sounds like you’ve made some significant progress! The only thing I see that may be of some help now is to work on a nice progressive power transfer from your back cast to your release. Tommy has some excellent videos which describe and show this process in action and I’d say that if you were to spend just a little time watching and working on this style of casting that you’d virtually eliminate your cast offs entirely. Better still, you’d enjoy the cast more with significantly less overall fatigue and longer casts for your effort. Hope this helps.