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About JonC

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    1,000 Post Club!
  • Birthday 03/09/1945

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    Upper Valley, VT

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  1. All I know is, as an old Scott fan, they’ve always done stupid money on eBay. JC
  2. Agreed to above posts, fast and slow are terrible descriptors, it would be much more educational if rods were designated according to where the bend occurs as Orvis has done, calling them tip or mid action, or alternatively, action angle as defined in Common Cents, then there would be no confusion about what’s going on. That being said, I like a rod with the bend up near the the top. JC
  3. Red Ball hippers. JC
  4. LLBean has a light weight goretex jacket for about $200 that’s very good. JC
  5. When looking at the map, pay close attention to Winthrop, it’s a peninsula, so it offers a lot of different exposures within a very short distance, it’s also where Jack Gartside chose to live which should speak volumes. There’s an estuary right where you go onto the peninsula that should be explored. All this is covered in his book. JC
  6. Google Jack and inquire about the Boston Harbor book, the website says it’s out of stock and will be back spring 2018, guess they don’t update very often. It would definitely be worth the trouble to track down a copy, Jack was THE expert on the Harbor. JC
  7. I’m with Herb, and your retrieve rate is exactly the same until the large arbor is empty, after that who cares! JC
  8. You should find one that you can cast with the line you’re thinking of using hoping it will load easily. I think you want a rod that’s not too fast so you won’t be rocking your canoe around while trying to be accurate. The danger is that the way rods are currently rated has become unrelated to being able to comfortably work with a standard weight line. JC
  9. I’ve been to the West Branch of the Delaware a couple of times lately in that time window and the Hendrickson hatch was on. Of course there are no guarantees in this business. JC
  10. Brokeoff, Yes I’m a BTT guy, I try to keep things as simple as possible, use a line that’s versatile and don’t spend time switching. Yeah, I think AFFTA line standards have been made meaningless because nobody is adhering to them, rods are more powerful than they were few years ago and the proliferation of lines that are overweight is a reaction. This applies mostly to SW stuff, but there are a lot of trout lines now that are overweight too. Part of it is that rods are moving more and more to tip (fast) action, and people with less ability buy rods that exceed their skills so they need more weight to make them bend, but still a lot of the rods are simply more powerful than the number would suggest. The result is total confusion, which makes it very challenging to find the optimal combination of rod and line especially for the neophyte. JC
  11. These lines you’re mentioning have long heads and though they may be true to weight at 30’ thats not what you’d habitually carry outside the tip when casting, which would be more like 40’+, I prefer a shorter head that weighs about what the extended long head comes in at (about a size up) because it will carry a bigger fly, is quicker to get in the air, and is better at short shots. I firmly believe that most of the rods built today are designed to work properly with an overweight line and that is supported by the fact that a great many of the lines marketed by the rod companies are overweight. Long head lines are great if you need distance and they facilitate throwing very tight loops because they’re thinner and have less wind resistance, but for purely practical reasons, I don’t think they’re necessarily the best choice. JC
  12. Brokeoff, I’m wondering what true to weight lines people are using, what I hear about favored lines is that they’re pretty much all overweight. JC
  13. Depends a lot on what rod you’re looking at, many 8wts are made work with overweight lines and are perfectly suited to do what you are intendinding. You will not be happy fishing a 9wt that matches an overweight line (10wt) for bones on an everyday basis. So the way to figure this out is to pick a line that you want to use based on taper and grain weight, then pick a rod that works with it. I vote for a strong 8wt paired with a Wulff Bermuda Triangle line for what you’re going to use it for. JC
  14. I agree about under body material, I haven’t used any for years now and it doesn’t seem to make any difference, I use foxxfur or craft fur for a tail because it’s light, has good action and doesn’t absorb water. One other thing I do is coat the foam with GO2 glue for durability. JC