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Deviljohn

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Fixin things
  • What I do for a living:
    Marsh Rat

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  1. 2 happiest days in a man's life??? 1. the day he bought his boat 2. the day he sold his boat welcome to that hole in the water you throw money in...
  2. see my post for: 79 johnson (SORRY)
  3. 1. inspect entire fule flow system by putting pressure on the bulb. If any point leaks at all, then air can get in. 2. When you dissassmeble the carb(s), be meticulous and take notes. Also, an air compressor can be handy to blow out crud that is not neccessarily evident...maintain clean workspace. 3. If you use a heavy duty carb cleaner/solvent wear gloves and take care w/ any plastic or non metal parts ie. do not soak too long as the solvent may damage them.... 4. Get some "ring free" or other type de-carb chemical and run the motor as prescribed. 2 strokes are inherently prone to carbon build up. This may also provide insight to the compression issue. My 91 yammie idles better after a de-carb treatment. A weak cylinder indicates powerhead rebuild time.....worn reed valves (right behind the carbs in the crankcase) can also be an issue. 5. Depending on when it was done last, rebuild the fuel pump. I am assuming it operates on crankcase pressure. Fuel pumps can be tricky as a pin prick hole will cause problemos... last but not least, buy a good manual for the engine so that you have a reference for all of the above....the golden rule: fuel+spark+compression= happy outboard.... Outboard tinkering scares a lot of folks, but when said and done, a 2 stroke outboard is no more complex than a weedeater or chainsaw engine.my 2$ worth, good luck. JD
  4. Anybody have a Mckee Southporter?? Looking at purchasing a hull and converting to a CC style like the Offshoreman. Wondering how an owner feels about the boat. Have heard they are built like tanks and perform well, although rumor has it that the ride is rough in 2' chop. Also planning on repower w/ yammie 115 4stroke My intentions: inshore, near shore and the Cape Fear..... Anybody got any input on my scheme for that next hole in the water to throw money in.... Thanks in advance
  5. On recent tip top installation, I used some "Cheapo" rod tip glue, the stick you heat w/ a lighter type that came w/ a 3 pack of various tip sizes...well, after I put on the tip, added a decorative trim and flexcoat finish, the rod tip glue failed and began to spin....on that note, I'd say the 5-min epoxy mentioned above is the way to go (I wound up redoing mine that way...) A trick i've seen (but haven't tried) for shimming an oversized tip top is to use threads either traditionally wrapped, or run lengthwise down the blank to take out the "play". In other words, on sizing, a top slightly bigger is better than one that won't fit. I don't think I would sand a blank top to accomodate an undersized tip top, as this would weaken a critical spot......
  6. Spent hours looking around the net for some type of rubber rollers to fabricate supports for a homemade drill powered lathe for turning handles... Have seen comments that rollerblade wheels work good (but they are $$$$) Mudhole sells flexcoat wheel (but they are $$$$$) Just can't see paying more than 1 or 2 bux for a roller, anyone know a supply or perhaps an off the shelf hardware store hobby pulley w/ an o-ring approach??? ready to grind once I figure it out....
  7. Amateur 1st timer on rod building....took a 7' casting rod of mine and removed the handle and guides down to the graphite, desire to build a muskie type casting handle w/ 14-15" or so rear grip length (to match my forearm length for leverage on the "hawgs") Wondering if the 24" length 1/2" id EVA grips will suffice, especially around the rear of the reel seat. There will be +- 1/16" of "play" in this area w/ a 1/2 id EVA grip. Suppose I could fill the area w/ epoxy...dunno. other alternative is to buy the cork rings and do it that way, but much more$$$ for the effort. Since this is a custom frankenstien (IM7 Graphite) first time build, trying to keep the $$ down....thoughts????. Planning on using for inshore drum fishing w/ Abu 5500s, haven't been able to find any 6-7' rods w/ extra long cast handles, so figured I'd build it.. Of course, after success in this venture, I'll build other rods w/ quality blanks/components etc... Sap's rising, fishin should be on soon enough.
  8. Howdy all, just purchased an 11' Tica MH surf casting rod and now contemplating what reel will be the best choice to use. I have an ABU addiction, and that without a doubt will be the brand of reel I use; however, wondering what advantages of using a 7000CS Rocket vs. a 6500CS Rocket would be on such a rig. I already own (2) 5500CS Pro Rockets and have to say they are by far my favorite (new) ABU reels. (I "converted" one of these by putting the side plates on a 6500C4 frame and love it too...) As far as distance casting and spool capacity for Drum/Striper, will the 6500 be a good choice, or should I beef it up to the 7000??? Wondering which frame size is typically better for distance. My intention for this surf rig is drum fishing in the surf around southeast NC coast as well as those rarer trips up to the OBX. I'll either get a 6500 or the 7000, just wondering what you guys think..... For you guys new to the CS Pro Rocket reels, the superiority in my opinion is in the dual spool control knobs and the excellent "old style" bait clicker mounted on the face of the left side plate vs. that disfunctional bait clicker used on the rim of the left side plate in the "6500C3 & 4" series...I really like that button baitclicker for live baiting in the surf and rivers.
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