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About doyle007

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  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    flyfishing, surfing, sailing FDs
  • What I do for a living:
    software sales

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  1. Since it will be a new boat for you, I would replace the entire water pump instead of just the impeller. I would also add the poppet valve and thermostat to the replacement list as well. If you do all of this before you get her wet then you know that it is all new, and you should not have any cooling issues with her. I would also take a look at the fuel lines and primer ball, as they are easy to replace and leaves you with one less thing to go wrong. Finally I would replace the fuel filter after the first or second ride, and keep a spare on board as a backup. All of this is easy to do yourself, and will give you the peace of mind that you know that the things that are most likely to go wrong are all new. I don't know if you go shallow or not, but I like to get back into some creeks here behind my house so I am sucking up mud and broken shells from time-to-time. This causes my cooling water to stop flowing sometimes, so I have about an 18" length of weed wacker trimmer cord to shove up the pee-hole and dislodge any debris that may get stuck in the smaller water line. This has saved me more than once. Enjoy the boat, and post pictures.
  2. Stripsetter, my mom lived in the Keys for a long time so I had a lot of fun down there with a flyrod. Most of my fishing was around the Summerland / Cudjoe Key area (mile marker 23 or so), and not so much down at Key West. But, you have a car so I will let you know where I had easy access and good catches. Here is my list starting at the farthest distance from KW and working my way closer to KW. Little Duck Key : about 40 miles from Key West, and just on the west side of the seven mile bridge. There is a parking lot there, and great flats on the ocean side. Lots of bonefish, cuda, jacks, and occassional shots at permit. March kicks off tarpon season, so you may be able to get an opportunity to cast at them as well. Bahia Honda: (mile marker 35) this is a really nice park, but it does not open until 8 or 9 am and there is a fee to enter. There are a lot of spots to fish on the ocean side. Once in the park you can drive along the beach and try different spots. There is a nice flat with a deep channel adjacent on the eastern side of the park. Tarpon spot, along with jacks and cuda. This is a great place to bring the wife and let her relax on the beach while you fish. Big Pine Key: (mile marker 33) Coupon Bight is the place here. Turn off of Hwy 1 at Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge / Long Beach Drive (last turn on the BPK before you cross the bridge on the east side of the key heading towards Marathon and Key Largo. Drive back on this road until it stops, and you have a lot of flats here. You can find bones, cuda, and jacks. Google Coupon Bight and you will find some good information. Big Torch Key: drive out on Middle Torch Key and keep going until you get to the last turn that is possible on Big Torch Key. Park here, and there are flats out just beyond the mangroves. Mostly cudas and sharks here, but they are fun and take a fly. Summerland Key: Niles Drive on the Gulf side. Drive to the end and you will find flats here. Lots of stuff will take a fly here. Jose Wejebe lived on this road, and I would see him from time-to-time at his place. My mom knew him enough that they would greet each other when they ran into each other, but I never met him. Cudjoe Key: Pirates Road on the ocean side. Parking right at the end of the road. Cudas here, but we have seen bones. Somewhat softer sand, so you have to be a bit wary of where you step. These were my main haunts. A seven weight is usually fine here, although I always had an eight weight as my main rod. You definitely need wading boots, and while I was always in sneakers and shorts, I would recommend pants as well. There are places where sea anemones or something similar are all over, and they will cause you to itch like crazy if you have one brush against your leg. Have fun.
  3. I have an '89 Aquasport Striper 175. It is basically the same boat as you are looking at, but it has the tackle center in the console that designates it as the 175 instead of the 170. The hull is identical. This boat is the greatest boat that I have owned. I use it a few times a week here in the bays of Southern NJ, and will take it a few miles off the beach if the ocean isn't too snotty. My boat has a 2003 Mercury 2-stroke, which I expect will outlast me. As others have said, the deck, transom, and gas tank are the typical areas of concern for these boats, which considering that it is 30 years old isn't that big of a deal. I need to replace my stringers as some point because they are wet, but I will do that in another year or two. My gas tank was replaced the year before I bought it, so I am good there. The transom seems solid, but when I replaced the transducer this year I did see some small amount of water weeping out of the hole. Cest la vie. I will deal with it at the same time as the stringers. There are plenty of guys that have rebuilt their boats and documented the process on the classic aquasport site. If you are a bit handy then it really should not be a job that you cannot handle yourself. Painting it to be like new may be best left to a professional, but the demolition, and new tank / deck / transom should be something that you can DIY. Good luck with the boat. I see me keeping this boat for another forty years and then passing it along to my daughter and her kids. It is a great boat for the bay and nearshore on nicer days. You can go shallow and it rides really well in small chop. Fishing three people is about the max that I like to do, especially if your buddies are big. For kids you can pile them on without too much issue.
  4. Seth, I have not used that rod, but I do have two Temple Fork TICR rods in 8 wt and 10 wt, and really like them. I had a St. Croix prior to these two rods, and I did not like it. I picked up the TICR rods after doing a casting lesson with Ed Jaworowski, and these are the rods that he brought with him to teach. I used my St. Croix that day and then Ed's TICR, and quickly sold my St. Croix. What are you looking to do with the rods? Will you be on a beach, sod bank, boat? Are you fishing deep water primarily, flats, or a bit of everything? This information can help others provide you with some relevant feedback. I am sure that someone will chime in about that rod, but also check out the thread "inexpensive 7wt" that is around the top of the forum now, and there are a lot of good suggestions for rods there with a pretty similar price point to the BVK. Just look for the 9 wt version instead of the 7 wt version.
  5. Skip, that is a different article, but it was very good. Thanks for posting it. By the way, I just realized that this thread was originally started years ago but was recently rehashed. Oh well, it is still a valid discussion.
  6. Twenty years or so ago there was an article in Salt Water Sportsman written by a guide in the Tampa Bay area. It was titled something like "Salty Six Weight", and was all about this guide using a 6 weight that he built to target trout and small reds in his neck of the woods. I emailed the author and asked him about this, and he said that for sure he only used this in the colder months so as to not stress any of the bigger fish that he may catch. I was intrigued enough to build myself a "salty six weight" using a Rainshadow blank and a fighting butt. I really liked the way the rod cast and how light it was to cast for a few hours without bothering a bad shoulder. One of the first things that I did before I fished this rod though was to tie my leader (always 20 lb at least) to a five pound weight plate and see what kind of pressure I could exert by pulling the plate across the grass. With the tip of the rod I could barely get the thing to move, and with the top third of the rod straight and a bend in the mid-section of the rod I could move it pretty nicely but it would stop when it hit an uneven section of grass. Now, when I get the front half or more of the rod straight and applied force using the butt and the reel I could easily move the weight across the grass. I suggest that you try this with your own rod to become familiar with where the power is applied with your own rod. It is always fun to see a bend in the rod, but if that bend is not far enough back then you may not be applying the pressure that you think that you are and could be needlessly endangering the fish's chances of survival, especially in warm water. Good luck and have fun, but go to the salt with your rod only after you know where the power lies in your rod.
  7. I believe that this is the same rod that John Skinner uses a lot in his videos for bucktailing fluke. His reel of choice is the Accurist PT with the flip switch. He catches a ton of fish with this setup, so you have some reference for fishability if you watch his videos.
  8. I have been using the 8" Tekton bolt cutters that I got from Homies about five years ago. They are under $10, and I have cut up to size 4/0 hooks using one hand with them without a problem. They have lived on my boat or in my fly bag that I use in the surf all of the time, and other than a yearly squirt of T9 Boeshield, they don't see any care. I have been crimping all of my barbs for a long time, and have not had the need for pliers to release a fish since I started to use stainless push/pull dehooker. If I ever do hook myself, then I can just pull the hook back the way it came and not have any issues.
  9. Looks good to me. Nice job. Make sure that you cover the thread with some clear nail polish or crazy glue.
  10. Fred, what tactic do you recommend for fishing the mouths of those tiny creeks that enter larger waterways? Are you drifting by them over and over, using your motor to keep you right in front of them, or anchoring up and continually casting your rig into the mouth of the creek and letting the tide pull it back out towards you?
  11. The guy from Flats Class TV posted a short video on YouTube about switching out trebles to singles, and he commented that offsetting the hook by three to five degrees will improve the hookup ratio. I have not tried it yet, but it seems to work for him and he has cameras documenting his trips.
  12. There is an Eastern 19' on SJ CL with newer power. That could be a great boat for our area.
  13. Based on your username, I assume that you are in EHT. That back bay means a lot of different things. Are you going to be running up the river, fishing the shallow bays between Linwood and Margate, frequenting the GE Bay and Inlet? If you are running the river or targeting Scull Bay, Absecon Bay, or Lakes Bay, then I would think that something like a flat bottom boat like a Carolina Skiff will serve you well. If you are going to be in the more populated channels with a lot of wake in the summer, or if you will be drifting the inlet and bay behind OC, then I would go with something that has a v-hull. Someone mentioned Cobia, which is a nice boat. There are a ton of boat builders for a center console in your size range, so do yourself a favor and go to the AC Boat Show in a few weeks and shop there. Good luck.
  14. MickAff, here are some pictures of my setup. It is very basic, but get's the job done in an easy way. I used a corn starch container for the mold of my larger block, but you can use anything that you want. I tried a vegetable can the first time and used the top that I cut off with a can opener as the plunger to push out the soil block, but the can had ridges all along the side and instead of a nicely formed block I got a block with some tears in the side. The smooth interior of this plastic container in my pictures makes the formed blocks perfectly. If you have any more questions, please ask. I am happy to share the fruits of my experiments, and I can definitely say that soil blocks allow my plants to take off much more quickly than when I was using the plastic flats and/or compostable containers to start my seeds.