fishing bum wannabe

BST Users
  • Content count

    400
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About fishing bum wannabe

Converted

  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    fishing, woodworking
  • What I do for a living:
    Printer
  1. Paypal sent
  2. I’d like 60. Please pm your info. Thanks
  3. Unfortunately most new model reels often have teething issues. My first 2 Penn ssv reels had grinding issues right out of the box. The ones I have now (I have 5 now) have none of these issues. My first 2 VS vrs went back the day after I got them with loud clicking noise. My local dealer stopped carrying them for a year because so many were being returned to him. I now own 4, 1 VR50, 2 VR150 and a VR200 and can say for 3 years they have been flawless. I don’t have any Saltx reels, yet. My fishing partner has 2 that have no issues. Also unfortunately, many of the bug fixes on new model reels are a result of issues brought to light by fishermen. As far as line lay and adding spacers, this is something that can happen with any reel. I’ve seen it on VS models as well as some high end Shimano’s. Not ideal, but a fact of life. I can understand your disappointment, but what I have seen from Tsunami lately has impressed me. I have no connection with Tsunami other than owning an 8’8” Airwave Elite which is my favorite back bay rod.
  4. If you don't buy Chinese you have a different budget than most. Most fly rods and reels that are affordable are made for American companies in China. The rest in Korea. By affordable I mean under $300. The prices on brand name US made fly rods, as an example, are for the most part in the $1000 range. I have a number of older Sage rods that I bought 20 years or more ago when Sage was affordable. A Sage or Loomis rod was $200-300 then. Reasonably priced fly reels, under $300, are almost all made in China now. I have a few and they very nice. I have a couple of made in USA Lamson Gurus, which are nice reels, and price competitive with the higher end Chinese reels, but they are not as well finished as equivalent or lower priced Chinese reels like TFO, Orvis or Redington which I own. There are a number of Surf Rod manufacturers in the US whose products are more affordable, but even there they are $300 and up. I own 2 St Croix Legends and they are a delight. However, I also own a Tsunami Airwave Elite that I paid 1/4 of what I paid for the St Croix and it is every bit as good a rod as the St Croix or any of the other top tier rods I have tried. Want a Salt Water spinning reel? Virtually all the reels you see on the water are made in China including the much sought after and expensive Van Staals. Fishing lures, most are made in China with some made in other far East nations. I hate to say it but if you we shut off China, fishing tackle will get too expensive for most. I too would prefer to buy US, its just that the quality of Chinese products is high, and the big US companies have opted to go there in order to make more money. The few that are still made in the US get premium prices that few of us can afford. As far as fly fishing is a rich mans sport, I have been fly fishing for almost 60 years, have owned some nice bamboo, glass and graphite rods from Orvis, Carlson, Payne (bamboo), Russ Peak (glass), Sage, Loomis (graphite) and others, but I am anything but rich.
  5. I have one of onthefish’s benders and it works great. I also have one of Steel Pulse’s which also works great. Paul’s is better finished, and the tolerances are better, but In terms of how they function, theres no difference, I use whichever one comes to hand first. I buy 5#s of welding rod every 2-3 years and I’m all set. I can make 2 sizes of nose loops and can make loops offset for darters, as well as cutting to custom legnth. No running out, I can make however many at whatever size I want, whenever I want. The loops are much more consistent than when I made them with round nose pliers. I highly recommend getting one. If I could find a tail loop bender that does the same thing I would be thrilled.
  6. I just registered a boat trailer. I had to get my application stamped by my insurance agent and asked him take care of the registration and plate. The agent had to leave the application paperwork at the registry and pick up the plates a couple of days later. The registry staff were avoiding direct contact and they were not doing same day service. Unfortunately they don’t do online registration.
  7. Respectfully offer $300
  8. Respectfully offer $350
  9. I don’t have access to use a nut. I’m thinking if I enlarge the hole in the covers slightly, then use ss screws with a flat nylon and a stainless washers to allow slight movement without breaking, like the rivets did.
  10. I have an old Grumman sport boat that uses pop rivets to fasten the covers over the side insulation. They are not structural, just holding the covers in place. About a half dozen are missing. They seem to break from flexing of the boat. My question is can I use stainless pop rivets instead of aluminum? I’m not sure if there would be electrolysis issues, but they would be much stronger.
  11. I strongly recommend that you follow Capesam's recommendation. Stability is the name of the game, both in terms of quality, and safety. I'd also recommend that you cut down the height of the cutter sled. I've had this type of duplicator for 20 years now and I've rebuilt mine 4 times. One of the things I learned was to get the center of your turning as close to the table as practical. On my old craftsman lathe I started a lot like you have, about 5 inches, but quickly raised the table so there would be 3" between the table and the center of the turning. On my latest iteration I've increased the size of the base of the sled (again) and raised the table so the center of the turning is only 2.5". It became safer, and the cuts are smoother with fewer digs after each rebuild. Another thing I did was make the base longer in front than cutter so that the cutter is supported straight down. It will require a spacer under your template to raise it so the base the sled slides under it. Lowering the height, and increasing the size of the base and eliminating the dust trap between your guide and template will make more consistent with less digs (and they will happen) and safer turnings.
  12. I know this is an old thread, but I thought I’d clarify how old the pattern is. I learned to tie the Rhody flat wing in the mid 70s from Al Brewster, then living in RI. At that time it was a well established pattern fished by the RI crew including Al Brewster and Howard Laws. That and the Rhody three wing were the staple flies for searun trout at Scorton Creek. I tied them by the dozen. I miss those days, fishing Scorton from October-January. It reminded me of fishing for steelhead in upstate NY except they were brown trout instead of rainbows. The scenery was different but the temperature was similar, very cold.
  13. Its actually going on my 4/5 wt spey and will be loaded with a 300 or 350 grain skagit. If I get down to the keys this year, I’ll reconfigure it with an 8 wt bonefish floating line.
  14. Interesting discussion, everyone bashing Amazon. I didn’t hear any complaints about Bass Pro. However most of the best deals I take advantage of come from brick and mortar stores that also do on line selling. One of the better small canal shops sells both retail and internet and appears to be doing well. Many of the larger shops from mass to nj sell both ways and often do deals that can compete with Amazon etc.. Also, because they have expanded their business on line, many can afford to have a wider selection, with more items always in inventory. In a lot of small shops It’s often like a little club with the regulars getting all the attention. If I’m going to spend 10-50% more for something I can get faster and less expensively on line, I expect some other benefit that I often don’t feel is being offered in terms of help or information. I don’t need any pogies left outside for me at 3 am. I think that many of the shops that fail, do so because the owners/staff aren’t as welcoming and helpful as they need to be to justify the added cost. And for those of you that think I’m cheap because I won’t spend the extra to support my local b&t, You do what you want with your money and I’ll do what I want with mine thank you.
  15. I prefer loops created with braided mono. Have had welded loops fail but none of the braided loops. I coat the knots with a soft uv resin. More importantly, I saturate the loop with the soft uv resin which makes it as rigid as the fly line which eliminates the hinge and gives a better energy transmission. The braid loops are smaller than a loop made from the fly line itself. Braid loops go through the guides a lot smoother than the loop made with the fly line.