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About blackdogfish

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • About Me:
    Grew up in RI (LC), been in VT since '88
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Blues guitar, harp, photo, surf fishing, carpentry, cooking, painting, metal fish art
  • What I do for a living:
    Architectural designer

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    Vermont Rhode Island

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  1. Trolling..ha ha
  2. Except for getting the greasy stuff all over other lures and your surfbag and your rod and your steering wheel... I use it to touch-up small spots of rust or corrosion on hooks or lures. Hooks around the points where I've filed and around the eye where contact with the thru-wire occurs and then rust starts. Dab with a Q-Tip. I figure it will act like grease, stop rust and at least not have the repelling, unnatural smell of petroleum. for the past few years this has worked well for me.
  3. Obviously you can base a workbench on everything from a crappy old door to custom hardwood butcher block. Depends on your OCD, available time and budget. ...and how utilitarian you want it to be I have made workbenches with 2x4 frame...frame the "deck" just as you would a floor system. Top it off with 3/4" AC plywood. Attach back to wall and use 2x4 legs (framed in an "L- configuration)...and make a bottom "shelf" underneath about 4" off the floor. If you need to move it around obviously make all four corners with legs. Put extra blocking in the deck framing where you want your vise to go. The AC plywood is good. Nice and smooth but you won't be bummed out if you end up accidentally drilling a hole through it or spilling paint or oil. Install with Torx-drive screws so it's easier to replace later if you need to. Good and solid, easy to build and affordable. I've made standard workbenches like this as well as large 4' x 8' work tables.
  4. There is really a lot to this topic isn't there? ..I mean aside from small personal preferences. GPS/Plotters, charts, battery configurations, transducer mounting options... I find the 5" screen size perfect for my paddle yak... mounted right at the gunnel with RAM mount on the rail. I do not want to lean forward at all to hit control buttons on a FF so I don't mount it on that front center "dashboard" area. I also dont want to have to squint at a screen that's too far away. Which brings up a good point. Don't drill holes until you are confident that the location feels right to you.... especially when you consider the power and transducer lines would need to get moved as well if you were dissatisfied.
  5. Maybe I wasn't clear. There are two components to this. The hardware and the "software". The Lowrance Hook and Hook2 series (well, most of them) have onboard GPS and ability for plotting. They do not have any actual maps/charts embedded. All the charts are added via SD card. The packages come with Cmap company's Inland Maps chip or the Coastal Maps chip or both. can also get charts from Navionics. My use of the Inland and the Coastal chips they included indicates that coverage and detail is spotty. If you are in the East River I'm sure there's a good deal of detail. If you are on some bay or inlet in Massachusetts or Maine or RI....or one of the thousands of small lakes and very well could have zero data (no chart of navigational aids/lighthouses, channel markings, anchorages and so forth as well as no depth contours) some of my lakes near me get ten foot contours. That is useless. There might be only two contours for an entire pond! You need one foot or at the most... two foot contours. So I would not rely on the CMAP chips they include. When I was shopping, I found some packages at West Marine that didn't include ANY chips and was like $75 cheaper. If you can find that! You have to read the details on the box or website. Then take the money you save and buy real NAVIONICS chip(s). The detail, coverage and quality is WAY better. Frankly I would not want to rely on those CMAP chips for real navigation. You'll have to do a bit of research on Navionics at first because there are various options...detailed regions of the country...or entire USA and Canada, etc...for various pricing. The company has good customer service so you can call them and talk about ALL of your questions and they will get you to understand it all. I will say that the charts/maps issue is confusing on most of these manufacturers I think. They do not make it easy for a newcomer to understand options or do a "apples and apples" comparison shopping.
  6. Scoob You didn't say what your intended purpose is (or I missed it if you did) Each software is going to be better or worse for differing trades/disciplines/uses. I am in architecture. We used to be all based on AutoCAD Everyone has moved away from that to Revit. Both are incredibly expensive and complex. Revit is not a "learn by yourself in a weekend and have fun" kind of software. I have heard for general Industrial Design, that Rhino is good. Deals with complex curves like cars and shoes really well. i have no idea of the cost or how easy it is to pick up. While the rest of my office uses Revit and screams and swears...I use SketchUp for initial design. they are almost diametrically opposed. Sketchup: EASY to learn, lot's of general design capability, very good for early conceptual design where you don't have to be precise to a fraction of an inch.... not so great at complex curves like cars or shoes, not incredibly precise, inexpensive Revit: HARD to learn, limited general "design" as in, messing around and designing various options...not good for early conceptual design work (unless you are REEEALLLLY GOOD), complex curves require advanced knowledge,, incredibly expensive Note that SketchUp, while owned by Google, was good, and generally free. The paid version (Pro) allowed you to do three main things that the free one didn't. 1. Import and export DWG files 2. Import JPEG 3. Use the companion program Layout, which gets your drawings to proper scales on proper titleblocks. Now...the new owner, Trimble, has replaced the free version (formerly called Make) with an online web-browser-based on that is absolute crap. It's really just a dumb kids toy now. You have to pay $600 for the pro version. that being said, I love sketchup. there are a bunch of apps (they call Extensions) that do various extra things that the base program doesn't do inherently
  7. I have a black/gold 712 or 714 I'd part with if you need it.
  8. It's worth it. You don't have to pay in full until he's about to ship.
  9. They are very expensive for what they are and after being introduced to USA from England in the 70s, there are still only two places that sell them...which seems beyond belief. They look a bit "whatever" compared to a lot of new stuff but they work. So do home-tied Deceivers.
  10. Rigging Red Gills. Mustad C68 SNP DT hook or the old 34007. Google Red Gill Zambrotta. DZ wrote an article on this for saltwater edge blog.
  11. Those are some seriously big heads with very sparse deer hair. They'll sink like....well....a lead sinker.
  12. 3/0 4/0 range
  13. Teasers good. They hit teaser sometimes and will not hit plug at all. Plug becomes a Teaser Delivery Device. Basic flies are good like Deceivers. You can use basic hooks like 34007. Stainless lasts but permasteel gets sharper. RedGills are VERY good . Black. Rascal size. Only a couple places in US carry them. Order now because Black/Rascals sell out quickly during the season. Seem to remember tarpon hooks on those...3/0 or 4/0...can recall the specific hook. DZ knows! I like tying in a separate leader off my swivel for the teaser. Sticks out good and easy to add or cut off I don't like dropper loops but if you're not using a swivel, that's what you are going to do.
  14. Don't get a diving suit. Not flexible enough. Make sure it has good padding in knees. The "sharkskin" texture some suits have on chest area help reduce wind cooling and thus keep you a bit warmer when you are out (or partially out) of the water. A 4/3 (4 mm on the core area and 3 mm on the extremities) is a good all purpose for New England. That should be okay in late May until late October. If you are someone who gets chilled easily, go 5/4. For simmer only. 3/2 will suffice. Add a wetsuit vest over your wetsuit to get another 1-2mm on your core when needed at beginning and end if season Farmer John types give flexibility of taking the top off during warm weather. Use neoprene booties in your wading boots. If you will be swimming, you'll want some sort of lighter weight dive boots. The trade-off is that lighter boots don't give you much ballast. You have on a wetsuit that's providing more buoyancy than you're used to. You stand in some current up to your waist or chest and you are starting to "bob" and your boots are providing some ballast to keep your feet planted on the sand or rocks. Lightweight dive boots don't do this well. They also don't have studs so climbing on rocks after swimming is much more dangerous. Some guys will carry Korkers and put them on after swimming and before getting on rocks. I have never liked Korkers and prefer to have the studs right on my boots but to each his/her own. The chest-zip style is supposed to be superior to back zip because the user should experience less "flushing"... leaking of cold water thru zipper as you move. Flushing is good when it's warm weather and it's bad when it's cool and you are trying to stay warm. Theoretically this is true. But I got a front-zip suit and it is ROUGH getting in and REALLY rough getting off. Sometimes I almost cannot get it off. Next time I would definitely get a back zip. Simpler construction too. Underneath wear spandex or "rash guard" shirts made for surfing and biker-type form-fitting synthetic shorts. No cotton! Wetsuit Warehouse is a good place to look at various options but it's really good to actually try on and buy from a local store. The unasked question: pee? Yes, you piss in your suit. Rinse at home. Use enzyme-based wetsuit shampoo as needed. Dry in the shade. Do not leave in sun. Store hanging up in a cool dry space...not crumpled up wet in your trunk for the week. As well as using a wetsuit vest over your wetsuit...if it's windy (wind is killer if you're out of the water) keep a wind-cutter top to put over your top. A kayak semi-dry top is good. You don't need wrist and neck gaskets because you're wet anyway and you don't want to trap water in your sleeves.
  15. There's a shot with the extra tube attached.