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About blackdogfish

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    1,000 Post Club!


  • About Me:
    Grew up in RI (LC), been in VT since '88
  • Interests (Hobbies, favorite activities, etc.):
    Blues guitar, harp, photo, surf fishing, carpentry, cooking, painting, metal fish art
  • What I do for a living:
    Architectural designer

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    Vermont Rhode Island

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  1. Those two words do not belong next to each other
  2. Yeah....just seemed like another thing to fail.
  3. Smart. The last bit of this puzzle that I have not figured out well, is where to store the additional anchor line that's not payed out. I keep a loose coil and tuck it behind my seat but I'm not satisfied with the situation. Easy for it to be loose...and anything serious i put behind the seat interferes with it.
  4. Keep in mind that we're not talking about how to secure the anchor line itself. Rather, how to secure the TROLLEY such that it holds in a given position despite being pulled by current. The anchor line runs thru the ring and thereby puts lateral pressure on the trolley lines. A cam that allows free movement in one direction, and locks in the other direction will not be useful in this situation. I've spent a good deal of time scratching my head over this whole issue during my past season. One thing I have found useful is to not run the anchor line directly thru the trolley ring. If you need to release the anchor...the entire length of the anchor line e then will have to pass thru the ring. Rather, clip a stainless steel carabiner to the ring....and then run the anchor line thru that. You can unclip the line from the carabiner (thereby completely removing it from the trolley system) relatively easily even with moderate tension on the anchor line.
  5. If I am imagining this correctly, you are anchored in current...say in a river...and are fishing towards the bank. If you are trying to hold exactly perpendicular to the current, that's a challenging situation. You can't balance on that perfect 90 degree position. The wind or current will push slightly more on your stern or bow....and as soon as the boat "tilts" either way (as viewed from above), the current is REALLY going to want to pull the ring ALL the way to the bow or stern. This is part of the reason anchoring in current is not a great idea. I have found that anchoring is more useful against the wind or a very minor current. Keep a knife handy if you need to cut the anchor fast. In current, when there's a lot of lateral pressure on the anchor, it can be much more difficult to release the anchor than the more usual situation where you are pulling the anchor from above. You can also have your boats bow or stern drawn under the surface of the water as the current increases (in tidal zones). Even if you have the end of the anchor line clipped off to your boat....the tension can be such that you can't get enough slack to release a knot or carabiner. There's also a way to rig an anchor (the flip-out type) where you actually attach the anchor line down low on the anchor, but zip-tie it further up the anchor shank. If you get your anchor pull REAL hard...and the zip-tie breaks, at which point you are then pulling at the BOTTOM of the anchor...not the top it releases much easier. Obviously you need to re-zip-tie it to have the anchor perform normally again.
  6. THAT is a great tip!
  7. It will stop movement of the line in one direction but not the other direction. That's why the zig zags are so good. Fast too.
  8. Princeton Tec. Cheap. Works.
  9. The Trident 13 is a sweet vessel. It handles really well and the storage console at your knees is awesome.
  10. Stability, in my limited experience, is relative. At 28.5" beam, you are most likely not going to be able to stand up easily. I won't stand up in my WS120. But it's "stable" when paddling. Another thought, at the other end of the spectrum, are the Eddyline 12' and 14'. VERY lighweight boats! Nice looking too. Not as "cheap- looking as most of the roto-molded OK, WS, etc.
  11. Yup. To me the cart is just one more thing and there are places where the terrain doesn't lend itself to a cart. And then....ya have to carry it on your yak. To each his own I guess. The real limiting factor for me is am I going to hurt my back lifting to the car rack. If I need a cart.... I'll probably be hurting my back. Just me....I'm weird.
  12. One more thing...I do a good bit of freshwater LMB fishing on a Lake where I can really get into the shallows a lot. there's no way I could get to most of these places with fins on a Hobie. Also, the milfoil is very heavy and would clog fins instantly. Also I like to fish in the lily pads and there also the fins would be a detriment. Your mileage may vary. Longer trips on very open water especially with some wind, the pedal kayak would make a lot of sense and the advantages would probably outweigh the disadvantages.
  13. The Trident 13 is what you should be looking at I think. There are some on the used market now; I have been prowling craigslist a lot. I have a WS Tarpon 120 and like it a lot...stable, tracks well, etc. Although WS did improve the storage hatch at your knees from the previous generation, it's a smallish round hatch and I'm kind of limited in terms of what can fit in there...and having it not slide all over the place. Cannot fit Plano 3600 boxes in there and that is a big design flaw in my mind. The only serious gripe I have about that yak. The Trident 13 on the other hand...whoa. that storage system should have a design award. Extremely well thought-out. Test-paddled one last year and told myself that it was going to be my next kayak. Seemed to paddle and handle better than the T120....faster too. Very very nice boat. slightly heavier than the T120. T120 is 69 pounds, the Trident 13 is 79 pounds. But that storage system is superb. Regarding weight...I think that's one of the first decisions to make. What is your style and how heavy is "too heavy". One reason I am sticking with my T120 is that I can handle it pretty easily and walk maybe 100 yards with it on my head. Anything heavier and I would be having back problems. Or...and this is something I do not want to do...using a cart, and a Hullivator roof rack ($600) or a trailer. The added hassle and lack of easy mobility do not suit me. It depends on your situation,. If I have a dock or a place on the beach, I wouldn't give much thought to weight. but I don't.
  14. Haha....yeah....agreed.